The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 2, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL How Wer Majesty and Curzon Went Shopping the Gowns They Bought—It Is Bargain Time in the Shops and the Clever Woman Buyer Can Pick Up Enough Now to Last Her All ‘Winter, for the Prettiest Goods Arc Being Sold Out fo a Song—What Will Be the Style and How to Lady and Make One Dol Take the Place of Five When You Are Shopying. BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. HE Queen of England wrote this line to Lady Curz go bargain hunting with m Bargain hunting with her Ma- jesty means very much the same as bargain hunting to any other woman. The shops are visited, well informed and obliging clerks display the dress goods and laces and her Majesty leaves the shop with a fine eollection of pretty things for the royal modistes to work upon. The only ‘concession made to her rank is that the shops- are cleared, at least an alsle is reserved so that her Majesty and friends can bargain hunt without hindrances. Yet it frequently bhappens that the Queen will go, at- tended only by a lady of honor, and will shop incognita, none but a few recognizing her in the crowd of shop- pers. And very good taste the Queen dis- plays in her shopping tours. She goes to the best houses and is very partial to those who advertise bargains. She buys lengths of pongee and poplin, to which she is very partial, and she in- wests rather heavily in ladies’ cloth, for there is never a time when her Majesty has not & handsome new cloth gown. In the season she appears at least once 2 week and sometimes once a day in one of these beautifully tallored af- tairs. 5 Shopping the other day with Lady Curzon, the Queen purchased enough chiffon broadcloth for a kilted skirt, which is to be made with the kilts stitched fiat at the belt and over the hips. The bottom of the ekirt is fin- ished with a hem eight inches deep. This gives the skirt weight and makes it hang more becomingly. Otherwise, being devoid of lining or trimming, it would be far too light. The waist is to be made with a kilted or plaited upper part, released into a full blouse effect over the belt. The sleeves are plaited at the top, but are Laggy over the wrist and the back is laid in little tight plaits. The color of this gown is all a soft @ove color, but into the neck there is #et a square yoke collar of cream lace, while deep cream lace cuffs come to n, “Come and or the elhow. There is a wide girdle of plaited dove-colored satin. The same design is being oopied by Lady Curzon BLACK- LACE KIMONO COAT k lusterless voile trimmed with netian lace. n as simple as this might be = by any home dressmaker, and would be the s- isfaction of hav- wn just such as the Queen's black V ivate modiste is making for her y at this very moment. How to Make Your Gowns. ut bargain-hunting don't for- you are going to make your 1 buy your stuff accordingly. is going to be w simple. That is one important thing. Even the Paris gowns are devoid of the many rufflings ich once distinguished thum and are shorn of their numerous plaitings, flouncings, bows and ends. The simpler the new gown the bet- ter; and there are many women who are makinz up their gowns with no ornament whatever except that of a lace collar and deep lace cuffs with, perhaps, a medallion or two of lace upon the bodice. Bargain days in the shops mean a great deal for the woman who is fond of lace. Mrs. Potter Palmer, who Is of the best lace judges in the world, declares that mever was lace so cheap and never were 80 many bar- gains to be found. “The renaissance of lace,” she said to a friend, “has led to the resurrection of many old pieces which were laid away and practically lost. But the old lace-makers of Italy and France have discovered the value of these odd lengths and are bringing them out from their hiding places of half a cen- tur Bits of lace, small lace squares, won- derful circles of lace and odd lengths of all kinds, yellowed with age and filmy as a web, or brown with age and stout enqugh to use for fish netting, are beginning to appear. One occasion- ally finds them offered in the shops, but as a rule they are sold at private sale. But on the lace counters one finds many real bargains. Then taking some bits of real lace which she had at home she applied them to this collar, taking care to let every particle of the real lace show. She took the tiniest stitches around the edge and she did not allow a ¢rac- tion of an inch to go to waste. Then with clever stitchery she cov- ereq¢ up what was left of the cheap lace with an embroidered design. She took long stitches and made stars and other conventional patterns. When her work was completed it looked as though she had taken a collar of real old rose point and had embroidered it artistically. 1t was all a trick, but it worked won- derfully well. The deep mousquetaire cuffs, which are so popular this winter, can be one MORE carried out in this manner by using nice lace over a cheaper grade. And while out on the bargain hunt don’t neglect to look for bits of any- thing that will make over into deep lace cuffs. One woman purchased enough piece lace for a pair of these cuffs. For a pattern she used a deep cloth cuff pattern, lengthening it a little. These cuffs can be stiffened and ap- plied to the gown separately so as to be removable or they can be made into the gown. They can be plain or worked, they can show the lace pat- tern or they can reveal a wonderful de- sign in applied crystals,'all sparkling and beautiful. They sometimes line these cuffs with a contrasting color, but the very newest are lined with white, as the white lining makes the lace look richer. The gauntlet cuffs are quite different, as they set out from the sleeve more, while the Directoire cuffs are short but very aggressive. You can take your choice of these, but be sure to provide yourself with several pairs of hand- some lace cuffs before starting on a winter campaign. What the Shops Are Showing. It is difficult to mention all the bar- gains that are now offered in the shops, for the summer season is practically over and everything that was not sold out is now being offered at a very great sacrifice. Now is the time when a woman with a little money can make a wonderful showing for next season. And it is not necessary to put away your purchases, for, it carefully chosen, they are of such a nature that they can be worn this fall and winter. Beau- tiful thin fine cashmere or cotton stock- ings come in all shades and one can get lovely brown, thin black or delight- ful gray hose for very little. These stockings, to the woman who does not wear heavy hose in winter, will go beautifully with the tailored gown of winter. The tendency is toward the colored stocking, or to the stocking that is worked in colors, and a woman who wants to be fashionable should provide herself with all colors. Very pretty little taffeta suits are now being sold very low. While these are not intended for winter wear, still there is something about silk that makes it appropriate winter or sum- mer. It can be worn with heavy un- derclothing, or, what is better, with a three-quarter cloak. The long cloaks are specially de- signed for wear over a thin gown and the taffetas will be worn all winter under ‘the three-quarter cloaks of broadcloth, or heavy silk. g The handsomest of the taffeta and voile dresses now come in the 1830 and the 1860 styles. The skirts escape the DEEP BLue 4 ground. They are plaited, or kilted, >or tucked around the belt, with the kilts or plaits or tucks extending down- ward. The material is soon released and the effect is that of a full round skirt. This does not add materially to the size of the hips and it is a style that will be popular all winter. It looks hice with any kind of coat, an Eton or & three-quarter. Etamine, voile and canvas are to be worn all winter and thére are suits that are heing made up fresh in these goods, for the material is treated in such a manner that it is as warm as serge. Besides this there are the long cloaks and, as a woman remarked, as she tried on a breadeloth cloak of three- quarter length: “I can wear my voile gown all winter under this cloak.” And the modistes are actually counting upon this to the exclusion of the hith- erto necessary tailormade suits for cold day wear. For Cold Day Wear. But, of course, thers will always be the tailor-made gown, and for this pur- pose there come the prettiest material seen in many a day. The nub plaids are charming. They show a fine plaited design running through a rough goods in which the nub is very visible. There are tiny splashes of color in the goods and the nubs are of all shades. One can get this material in all colors, that is, with red predominating, or with yel- low showing up in a conspicuous fashion or with a deal of blue. , With a gown showing a preponder- ance of any one color there comes an opportunity for a hat of the same shade. A dress worn by onme of the society leaders of New York, who has Just returned from her summer out- ing to Paris, showed a ground of light brown cloth, upon which there were large round spots in a deeper shade of brown. A tiny fleck of green was embroidered in the middle of each brown spot. With this gown the woman of fashion wore a big, flat hat with sailor- ‘like proclivities, draped with a white veil in which there were biz green spots. A coque breast of green trailed over the side of the hat. The green and brown were cunningly mingled in this one suit. The gown was brown, with a dash of green, and the hat was mastly green. The autumn clothes run toward the smcoth effects, though when the first snow iMies the rough goods Wil come out, and one will wonder where so ‘many and such handsome rough suits suddenly came from. The attractive qualities of the new coats are just realized by the great army of women who want to be hand- some. When you have been either too thin or too thick for years and sud- denly see a way out of it, then the saving grace of these long coats is brought home to you. The woman who is a little too thick can put on a three-quarter cloak of silk pongee or of very light weight cloth and look as though she were a very miracle of beauty. And the woman who is too thin can gain a great deal by dressing herself in one of these gar- ments. It was no less'a genius than Bernhardt who declared that if she had to take her choice of a new gown or a new long cloak she would take the cloak. “You can dress to so much bet- ter advantage in a cloak,” said she. Very pretty are the military touches which are lent to the new long coats. They are made with button holes and military strappings extending all the way down the front and there are stiff little military collars that stand straight up around ‘the neck, while others, being collarless, have the mili- tary finish. The First Autumn Coats. One lovely three-quarter cloak in mushroom white cloth was trimmed with a military finish of brown taffeta loops and brown silk cordings put on across the front in very handsome style. Big brown enamel buttons were stationed front and back. The backs of nearly all cloaks are tight fitting, which gives them their style, and the little military trimming at the back of .the waist is very no- ticeable. There are postilion effects in the shape of little- tabs and but- tons, and there are strappings with small tailored buttons finishing them. The tailored buttons are very dis- tinctive this year. They are made of gun metal, gold, brass and silver, or they are of some mixed substance which glitters and looks like steel, but does not corrode so easily. The tailor- ed buttons are so called because of their neat metallic finish, different en- tirely from the silk worked buttons and the covered button mold. The semi-long cloaks are made 'of many varieties of material—indeed, nearly everything is impressed into the service from the heaviest broadcloth and the shaggiest of men's suitings to the light, smooth shantung and Chi- nese silk good, which are very service- able for winter wear if lined or worn over a golfing jacket. It is a fad to make your three-quarter cloak so that or it can be wornm all the year round, just as you make your all-the-year hats and your all-the-year gowns. The bargain counters affer “very handsome short lengths in cloth, and this brings one to a discussion of the suits that are going to be worn. Whole suits all of one material will not be more popular than the mixed suits. The wife of a famous steel magnate has just ordered a full blue cloth. It consists o and a pretty.white shirt this she will wear a natty tan jacket. The little tan covert cloth will be worn more than ever this fall, and par- ticular attention will be paid to its lines, which will be straight in front with the back and the sides tight fit- ting. Big white pear! buttons are hand- some with such a coat and, though there are many buttons on the mar- ket, none holds its own better than these pear! buttons, which now come with a peculiar luster. Remnant Ideas for Fall The navy blue cashmere fall suit will be quite conspicuous the first days of fall. And to get a good remnant of cashmere should be one of the aims of the woman who wants to dress smartly. The best of the new cash- meres now show quite a gloss and the fashionable color is the old-fashioned navy blue, the blue which holds its own through all seasons. The little tan coat is very smart with this sult, but the smartest of all coats is the little white cloth coat. This is to be seen a great deal this fall, short to the hips, s English in its lines and very chic. There come lovely little white cloth coats, the shade being not pure white, but oyster w or one of the whitish colors. The pure pearl white is not nearly as fashionat as the slight coffee tones, the one are off the white. uit It is to be a great season for the economical woman, for she can remnants and combine parts f her old a suit t t of brown, ¢ ts until ha and bec the old summer suits, can be brought up to date by a little tight fitting English coat of tan cloth or by a little black coat elaborately faced with bands of embroidered white satin. They trim GLAND these nttle coats in the nattiest man- ner. “What is new in fall girdles?" asked one fashionable miss of another look- ing'into the windows of a French mediste. Two straps of suede joined with slid 3 the second girl, “or one wide band of leather wrinkled un- a narrow buckte in the front and held flat 2 wide buckle in the back *And tk another girdle note,” said she., “The prettiest girdies are made of leather, with two tabs in the back buttoned on the belt wigh two big brass buttons. These tabs gre as long fir ur > In the hape of wn or a leather belt white to match the suit. I there tabs buttoned . to the belt in postilion fashion while brass buttons to match those in the ik are fastened all tk 1 the belt at intervals of two inc In the front there is a narrow buckle usually.made on the st of the harness buckle.” All Winter. The bargain counters are heaped with handsome things in shirt walsts, but one cannot expect to get these waists given away. “I am buying linen shirt waists to wear all winter,” said one woman to a party of shoppers who stood gazing into the alluring windows of a hand- some shop, “and I am selecting them as ¢ v as though they were sum- mer walsts.” are two short e way Shirt Waists choosin she -continued, y linen s because they wear the best and and look 'the richest. There are - handsome white linen s embroidered. with English eye- let hand work. - They sell for $5 and upward, but they are well worth the money.” A great many woma wash shirt waists all v will wear the nter and that is one reason why the prices hold so well. Still, in the thinner waists, one can always get bargains the fall. avy waists, hand embroid- N ENGLISH COATCOPIED AFTER ONE WORN Be20ON S RUCHING AND I NOVELTY \LACE. ered, are well worth any money that is asked for them, for they prove a good investment. They wear beauti- fully and they can be colored if one gets tired of wearing white