The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 25, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN at Worn by Mrs. Alton cer When She Came to to Do Her Shopping and - ¥ Hat of Mrs. v Roosevelt — Bright That Will Be the Rule Hats That Are Gay With nt Kinds of Trimmings, and Chiffon. Hat Is Worn » Londoners. Theo e Roose- navy blue, de band- Her hat was affair, flat and made A bunch of cherries de and there were bows & very large sa gray med the Queen Margherita of ordered nine hats, which it is to be presumed are for her approach- fng trip to the Ur d States. They are this country as all- ats. They will do for and again for the cool- r. The colors are hats are what might be un Y. e in summer when ell must wear straw, and a time in winter when all must wear fur-trimmed bats. But on all other occasions the hats which are called all-the-year- suitable. ajesty’s hats is in gold- e edge trimmed with ust brown lace. This on rather full, with another founce falling over it. The top is growned with three handsome French roses, each leaf as perfect as it can be made. Another hat is a satin straw, It is a toque, full in the front, slightly pro- ed with bunches of 11n light gray. so for fall wear, is a jets. The top, , is jetted. This makes a very striking calling hat and can be recc ded to any woman is the ¢ r of an old lace sum- hich she would llke to turn into 2 winter hat. Rip off the lace, dye it some deep color, a dark green, a deep bro or a black, and then jet it. This will be quite the style this tall and it is a style that will hold its own through the ter. The Big High Crowned Hats. Hats are certalnly determined to know no middie ground. Either they are extremely large or they are little bats. For wedding occasions, and for other extremely full dress events, the tiny hat is worn. But it is seldom be- coming and is laid aside for the more picturesque big hat. Picturesqueness is actually demand- ed of every woman and the milliner of to-day seats her customer before a mirror and works upon her hat until it is perfect. There is no such thing es a ready-made hat these days. All hats are siightly altered until they suit the particular requirements of the one who is going to wear them. The round hdts with high square crowns are to be the hats of winter, 1f one can judge by the Paris advices, yet, somehow, these hats are not quite as popular this side of the water as in looking like satin clot rather and London. The - American y s toward the softer effects. ot be denied that the tall are smart. borough hats and all the Gainsboror.gh family par- J the high square v wide brim with 1 they have the flat to turn down the hat and pin it to the of .the fall rown, with of lace, frame. small bound the handsomest aw lace o hat 1 has a velvet le bunch of tips side. lace brims and hand- etched ove ¥ these them. One very some lace brim had flowers worked upon it in black silk. Another had flowers painted on it. You can get up very pretty results with these lace brims and lace crowns if you are will- ing to work a little upon them. It was the Countess de Castellane who changed the style in ostrich feath- ers. Feathers that trailed last season are now bunched and grouped upon the hat. The single long trailing plume, while it will never go completely out of style, 1s much less fashionable than it used to be. The tendency now is more toward the higher trimmings. Feathers are trained over the crowns of hats or are bunched in a group, which is set well toward the front. How to Get Pretty Effects. And there is another style of feather trimming which will be very popular this fall and winter—the lyre feather. An ostrich plume is turned inside out, 80 to speak, and is tightly curled. It is then trained around the brim of the hat, or underneath the brim, or is used as a feather trimming to go around the crown. All one’s old feathers can be treated in this way. While ostrich plumes will lead the trimming styles, there are other trim- mings which will be fashionable, and one of these is the stiff ribbon bow trimming. Ribbon Is bunched in stix loops and is us<< W® decorate the hat. And velvet is laid on in standing folds and one fold overlaps the other, so that the colors contrast. The very prettiest effects are obtain- ed for fall by taking contrasting folds of velvet and setting them upright around a hat. At one side ‘there is placed a handsome buckle. This is the tailor-made hat. On a dressier hat there can be an ostrich plume or a b, handsome chou of ribbon or a big win~ ter rose. Roses are to be conspicuously used this winter in the trimmings of hats. The eingle rose will stand at the front of the hat, with a large rose at each eide of it. Three roses make a pretty trimming for any style of hat. Milliners have no hesitancy in say- ing that hats will be very bright this winter, not to say gay. There is a tendency to take up the hat of many colors, the hat that combines white with ,orange and which introduces iouches of black. . A beautiful hat bullt for a London Woman is made of chiffon velvet in oyster gray. It is very wide in the brim and high in the crown and the velvet is put on in shirred rows, very much as one would shirr a yoke. The hat trimming consists entirely of a great long veil of orange-colored chif- fon, which is draped around the crown of the hat and caught at the back with a big jet pin. The under side of the hat is faced with coffee-colored lace, worked in white silk flowers. This hat, Which is valued at $50, 1s to be worn for nice dress occaslons all winter. Hats With Low-Necked Gowns, There are to be opera hats this win- ter and they will be worn by women in decollete who have never worn hats to the opera. Lovely, great picture hats as large as a cartwheel, will be, worn in the opera boxes by women whose necks are strung with diamond chains. A very unique opera hat was worn by a Parisian last winter. It con- sisted of a tiara of diamonds set into the middle of a great big Alsatian bow of turquoise blue velvet. This was set on top of the head. It lacked only the strings to be a bonnet. Strings will be worn considerably this winter, though it is a fact that they do age a woman considerably. So only the young and beautiful should wear them. Women who can wear strings are blessed indeed, for they FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL frame the face as nothing eise can do. A beautiful French woman is wear- ing a wide brimmed hat tied under the chin with tulle streamers. This is something on the style of a poke, but the hat is not tied so closely down into poke shape. The brim flares and the streamers are tied down over it. The innovation of automobile fashion has changed the styles not a little. Women have discovered how immense- ly becoming the veil can be. And more and more is it utilized in the trimming of hats. The automobile hats which are made bv the draping of a veil can be got together very cheaply. It takes enough veiling to shirr around the top of the hat, where it is pulled up until it just fits the crown. The veiling is now crossed at the back and the ends are brought front and fasten- ed with a brooch upon the gown, or are tucked in the belt. The veil can be pulled down over the face if desired. The cost of a very up-to-date automo- bile hat is less than a dollar if man- aged in this way, for the veil entirely covers the hat, and any old hat will do. Hats in Colored Felts. A particular effort is being made to popularize the colored felt hats, but just how fair woman will take to them is a question. The baby blue felts are very pretty and Lady Randolph Churchill is wearing one trimmed with a shaded blue plume which is draped over the top of the crown, while the under side of the'hat is faced with a very heavy white lace. The red felts aré very showy and one needs only one hat of this kind a sea- son. It can be worn only once in a while on account of its very distinctive qualities. One soon tires of it. All indications go to show that con- trasting hats will be the style. With a black gown one can wear a red hat or a blue hat.and with a brown dress one has a nice choice of hats running in every shade from vellow to dark brown and green. One of the Washington belles |is wearing a_very handsome gown or gray and blue checked silk made up with cherry satin. With this gown she wears a cherry-colored hat, brilllant and without a particle of contrast. It will be quite the thing for the well dressed woman to own a blue hat, a red hat, an all white hat and a black hat, besides a number of hats to match the different costume: If it be true, as the fashion designers assert, that hats can be w ason after season, ape holds good, then 1 investment 5 for a hat as long as the a handsome hat is and the woman who p can feel that she is going to have it for seveéral years to cor This is quite different from buying a hat that is to be thrown away at the end of three months The hat is undoubtedly the keynote to the costume, s the dress. The great han e hats of chiffon and feathers ar ith call- ing and reception costu , while the new little compact hats, with their coque feathers or prim rosettes choux. and their beaded designs, for less formal wear. The day of n their popularity Antoinette sleeve. T which is tight to t met by a wide ru over the arm used for dinner gow and for ev g dresses. It has been worn more or less all sum- mer and will be the f onable sleeve of the coming winter. ticularly handsome as an eeve, being neither too short for good taste nor too long for elegance. The Makingz of a Gown. “I get: fine results,” said a modiste, “with embroidery of ail kinds. I re- cently receiyed an order from a cus- tomer asking for a dark blue taffeta gown. The style desired was the fajlored gown of the present season. You know what that means. The plaited skirt flaring around the foot, but tight around the hips and the blouse with wrinkled back and full front and wide girdle. “T purchased such a_gown outright in the shops, plain and pretty. Then ‘I brought it back to my workrooms and ‘set my girls at work upon it. I 1get them embroidering a vine of for- get-me-nots around the neck and working a vine of the same flowers upon a suede belt. I also let them put a_touch of embroidery upon the hips, choosing the darker tones of the forget-me-nots. The gown was a great success and my patron was delighted. ‘“I wonder that more women do not take advantage of the handsome is returning, and due to the Marie is a little sleeve dredses that are sold, ready made the stores. They can be easily aitered to fit; in fact, they do fit almost every- body now. And they voile, " etamine, th g and ev othe are exquisitely s less -than it costS to buy the m I saw rea. and make it.yours $18 whic candid opir * dressmakers. th well to patromize t A leeves fall back from e must be forever or One of the shops 1 ty 8¢ So ma f the the hand that ¢ the 1 tf frill of lace a or plaited ribbon, i is set ar i the top of the glove in such a way that the lace will fall forward over the glove. Another glove fad shows little box plaiting of white satin around the st or top of the There are ported gloves show contrasting color in the lining and, in such a case, the ribbon must match the lining of the glove, and even the but- tons are made to match. New Shoes and Their Heels. And, while speaking of gloves, one cannot but think of shoes, which have become meore decorative and quently more pre turned away ‘from ; the shoes to the points again, I she are made of fine black Jeathe very high in the heels, very low in the vamp and very pointed in the toes. The neatest of all shoes ju are the plain thin black boots, high, buttoned wi buttons and . very very full as to finish. is worn for the street with the hand- some dark taffeta costumes. Heels, while they are growing hig! er, are not so very bad after all. The as as show the square military shapes and are built on the Cuban design, which throws the foot forward a little but not impair its usefulness for ing purposes as the French heel 1se the little black slip- chic, but its heel is ite or some other and its bows ex- for the street one heel, in sp that it e of the is not g how many new things It & one i the shoe line. The cozy kid t J and so fas Fall Velvet and Velveteen. It is pre ted that velvet and vei- veteen will be worn Teat deal. lat is not worn as 3 veteen. The same is true of all other materials which began as imitations, but are o be worn proudly in their own name. The newer velvets show a thinner and just as much durability as There is the lovely chiffon vel- ch one of the most charm- ing dress materials known, and there are velvets a trifle heavier which an- swer the purpose. The popular veivet shadés are black gray, navy blue, golden brown and gun metal. The tailored suits of fall show some very handsome veiveteen dresses for colder day wear. They comé in the autumn colors, leaf mold brown, bark brown, sumach red and the grays that suggest autumn. The dotted and checked velvets are extremeiy fashic able. They make well into suits and have the wonderful advantage of being ovecoming to éverybody. For a general utility suit there is nothing the equal of a good figured or dotted vei- vet, providing the figures and dots be not too larze. rore