The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 14, 1904, Page 10

10 Miss Horner of London, a Descendant of Little % Morner, Has In- vented Veil, Designed a Fall Sleeve, Iniredaced a Draided Vest and Drought Out a2 Brand New Col- lar— Time to Think of the Fs Ward nd the Woman W Notl t All 1o § Sorry to 1k That It 1s to Be a Very Expen:i utumn By rasta Prescott. RET s H r of London, wh t e is a direct des t of Little Jack Hor- e z it again, e 5 « for a Little he the shape ilar, slashed has in- pearance of s. She has to vogue the braided r braids put on uted in military s Horner has in- med with fringe. m others one 1 and that mething new to ome and begin nter. True, va- ut the thought very inviting. W ghts of the homecoming re g reep into the mind g mn wardrobe -and arrying out. s comes a time nty of money s ge over the at all or very lit- £ othing a year must ¢ est s while the young w v finite fixed allowance, ar T one, can do she wishes to do. seas fashion world do it all. Not for !‘.a: y s s st has there been such & decided nity for the spend- ing of coir ver in all the world has the »ending woman had such a chance with her money. She can do anvthing and everything with the necess nd In the re 1 of jewels she has mag- The opening up of the Orient has brought over to this country marvelous jewels, mock and real, all of wh are made up into the most « ng set for waists, for buckles, ornaments and for brooches, } us and cuff ornaments. Paillettes and passementeries, em- broideries and ets alike glisten with semi-precious stones of marvelous color until one's gown shows a glow of color such as it could never have obtained out these gems. Dull heavy yellows, brilliant wine reds and the most wonderful greens are all to be found in these dyess embroideries. It is a fact that will not be disput- ed that jewel trimmings go a great way upon a gown. They can make a very plain one over into a gorgeous garment and they can transform a dress of everyday elegance into some- thing handsome enough for a diplo- matic reception. Indeed, the rejuvenating powers of jeweled bands are so well known that many women make a point of collect- ing them, buying them as they would buy lace, as an investment, something to have in the house to be used in case of need. Lovely Jewel Trimmings. A young woman who visits much at the home of Mrs. Becretary Hay is the owner of a set of turquoise embroid- eries. They are in the shape of stole fronts, of a high neck stock and of a palr of embroidered cuffs. In addi- tion to these pieces there is a deep flounce of lace, appliqued with heavier lace and embroldered with blue stones. With this she wears a really wonderful gold and imitation tur- quoise chain and carries a fan of tur- quoise setting. For the halr she has a couple of pins that dance upon spi- rals, making a pretty blue flitter. A set of jeweled ornaments is quite en expensive thing to buy, though one can sometimes pick up bargains in Jewei_d laces and passenenteries and do pretty well on a moderate sum. Twenty dollars purc ed the material for a lovely set of t bands deco- rated with mock surrounded by t scales and for an additional $20 this same won secured one of the lovely embroidered ros: get§*with pearls outlining the Jeweled are plai son when try when a hit of jew a pair of lace gauntlets, an embro ered stock or a voke, or d flounce will add the touch of "just something” which the gown needed. The woman who has plenty of money will want a taffeta gown im- mediately upon her return and. if she is of prudent instincts, she will invest in one of the coin spot taffetas. She will take & glossy black taffeta, show- ing a coin spot of black satin, and she will make it in the prevailing mode. The round skirt with shirred hip yvoke and the round skirt with tucked hips are holding their own well and for early fall they make a very pretty gown, though there is the side plait- ed skirt with the plaits stitched upon the hips, and for absolute style there is nothing that is any more elegant. The black taffetas of early fall will be made with a choice of skirts. If one does not want to cling to the tucked hips and the plaid designs, there is a skirt - which is built very full and which is ruffiled around the foot. How to Hang Your Skirt. There are certain rules for these skirts and the observance of them will make a gown. One is that the skirt shall barely escape the ground all the way around. 'The second is that it shall be a little shorter in the back than in thé front. This is to insure a smart flare. And the third is that the material shall have sufficient stiff- ness to set well out and not cling to the figure. The stiffness can be se- cured by the wearing of a handsome ruffied petticoat or by cutting the skirt out of material which will not grow slinky. Then, when it comes to the waist of the first fall costume, one hesitates again, for surely there is a choice. The woman who wants to look seasonable will choose a little jacket, or, at least, & simulated jacket. She will try to make her suit true to its title, a fall suit in. appearance, even though it may be for warm day wear. Immensely smart will be the three- quarter silk coats made of black taf- feta, and quite as smart will be the three-quarter silk coats, made of tan and of the heavier ecru and coffee colored linens and of the full weight pongees. It is going to be a fall when the separate jacket will be fashionable and when the woman who does not want to wear a suit all alike can vary her appearance with a coat that con- trasts with her costume. The contrasting coat for fall can be fitted in the back, rather straight in the front, faced with a self color and THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. buttoned with visible buttons or fastened with b and cords. The collar’ will' be” most elaborate. ThHe coaf will be low in the me somethipg on the Duteh order, and there will be trimminz of lace and other ‘pretty- decorations. s far the sleeves of the fall coats, quite s0 rate that it as ex- a woman powers of imagination all her to wi and imagine a ore fancy than her niind a sleeve that h is pretty to and h is to hold its style all the there is the balloon sleeve, which lled the Little Jack Horner sleeve. But slips on easi look wh these who wa and w! becoming to the figure ur at, The Jack Horner Sleeve. The Jack Horner sleeve is low upon the shoulder and tight in the upper arm. It adually grows larger until at the w it is the circumference of a fairly weli-developed pillow case. Here it i nighied with two very full and very deep ruffles of lace. This is an admirable sleeve for any fall coat, and it has the merit of dressing up the coat remarkably. . It is a very excellent thing to own one coat with dressy sleeves. It is use- ful for slipping on at any required time. A ¢oat with wide slecves trimmed with lace can be worn to~luncheon parties, it 1s very nice for club meetings and it can be brought out and worn over'one’s black satin calling gown. It would be such a wise thing for the woman who is thinking of fall if she were to invest in a satin gown. Let it be of some dark color—a seal brown with high lights in it, or the ever ad- mirable navy blue. Or, most service- able of all, she can select a glossy black satin. As a best dress satin will be the very thing all the fall and winter, and if the gown be made up _ with an Eton coat viith stole fronts it will be warm and handsome until cold weather. And it can bc made to ¢e duty in midwin- ter, for it can be worn with furs on very cold days, and so it proves to be an all-the-year-round dress. A handsome deep golden brown satin gown was made up almost like a shirt waist suit. The skirt was laid in kll!a:!ltched tb below the hips and trimmes d the foot with a pointed trlmmml;'he coat was some- thing of a Russian blouse, belted at the waist and drawn «down in a very long point. The | sleeves were immensely wide and u{wu‘d with lace. dyed brown. - There are many points in favor of the satin gown for fall wear. It is unde- niably dressy. It is very fashionable, for it is an old material enjoying a great revival period, and it is durable. It is just warm enough, and for early fall modishly made it is a very nice addition to any woman’s-wardrobe. It is a material that can be put away for wear next spring if so desired. Yet, while preaching satin, one gets a glimpse of the new fall cléths, those materials with the soft, lustrous face and ‘with a texture so fine that one loves to touch it. A suit forfall, made in sweep length, with an elegantly trim little Eton coat, would be quite the correct thing for the woman who is going to indulge in social pas- times between now and December. Skirts Long in Front. There is a fad for making the skirt a great deal too long in the front. The English women will tell you how they have made trips to Paris to have a gown fitted. And they will relate how the French dressmaker, after fussily pulling down the skirt in the front and vanking it in the back, in that nervous manner peculiar to the French fitter, has brought out a stool and stood them upon it for the fitting. One woman declares that she stood upon an unabridged dictionary one mortal hour while her skirt was being hung. It was turned up just even with the ground. And when it was com- pleted it was so very long in the middle of the front that it had to be lifted with the hands. The Eugenie lift this is called, right in the middle of the front. For the autumn there is every hope for the woman who will sew a little. She can take her sleeves from last fall and transform them in rational ways. If they have tight cuffs the chances are the cuffs are not deep enough. They must be lengthened by piecing them down with a band of chiffon velvet. This band of velvet can be embroidered with braid. The rest of the cu& is then embroidered and the sleeve is new again. The old last spring gown can be made almost new by the addition of a mili- tary vest. This is to be very much the style. It is a vest that hangs straight, exactly filling up the opening in the front of the coat or bodice. Every effort is made in putting in a vest to have the lines hang as straight as possible and to put in the vest with military _precision. Tts material i3 brown or blue, gray or white satin, arfrg it is embroidered with colors of gold and blue. i Such a Fad for Buttons. Though it is coming fdll and one looks for all mew modes, there are hold their many old ones that still sway and grow, if possible, stronger with the seasons. One of these is the button vogue and ‘the other is the vogue of medallions. In buttons there is a greater variety than ever. They come larger and more elegant, costing prices that ought to buy a gown. In the other extrems there are buttons that are very small. but made of very nice material, and these are used abundantly for trim- mining purposes. Little brass buttons are used to trim a girdle; little brass buttons are employed upon a stock; small buttons of blue and white are used for vest and jacket trimmings and buttons that are extremely beau- tiful decorate street blouses and walk- ing gowns. The handsomest of the new buttons are made of three or four materials, showing, v, a fili- gree over gold or over silver. And others are made of different c red stones, all inset, while still others are of metal, with designs set with pre- cious stones. The silk buttons and the hand- painted buttons and the buttons that are covered with the dress goods are all very much used, and, since they are inexpensive, as well as beauti they are becoming fast favorites. One very charming button button of white silk, painted flower. This makes a handsome ¢ ration for a calling dress and . button that can be used upon gowns of even nicer destination. A woman who dines out a great has just brouglt back to life ar bodice of Irish lace. It was pensive waist, which had beco ed. Cutting out the stock. made a Dutch neck, which wear with a band of velvet aro throat. The sleeves she will bring date by cutting them off and lingerie cuffs. The front of t she will trim by draping a race 2 across the yoke and here and e she will cateh the lace fichu up with a large, handsome hand painted but- ton. lea For nice evening waists the hand paintad outton is set in a little rim of Valenciennes lace, shirred and gathered around the button. Again one sees the button set in the middl2 of a rosette of ribbon. Either way it is very pretty. It is a good time for the woman who is determined to dress well to study the styles, for now they are shaping themselves for something pretty in the fall