The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 7, 1904, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. far good concerned. f up the nar o the darkest, r and unearth s0 s relegated the s into the dark re- nd the 1904 less than a ved and hing the full on and g coun- at on and off. solutely uncon- nal appearance se rose, and so frocks demand cks cry aloud be carelessly »d by so doing Hence the re- er's shawl. red ones are , for they are swell, and for a they simply defy s never quite s nd r s it then and are very liant pea- cannot f the chest vith a deep embroidered with r a crepy black embellished pink roses, all that one may do is the best of it and be duly make rse, it goes without saying that er what the fabric or the ay be, is always the most by far the daintiest ggests the dark-haired, d gypsy lassie, and deep pinks fd - blues the Portuguese girl, who -thrqws he wl over her head to pro- tect herself from the sun as she trudges idly back and forth to her work. Black seems to savor of trouble and sorrow, and as there are few who can ce it is left to ful- romises. So, you see, all that is left for i€, of course, crepe shawls, itself makes all the dif- world, and what would smartest of the smart in one erial would be too dowdy for de- scriptic another Of these careless “‘hro-vs” there is an endless variety. The modern ones ioned for pretty alone and are and as eairy as a summer , and, by the way, quite as {llu- are here in their charm- shness to-day and there in their ggled, sorry condition to-mor- ‘serviceable and fabric ce in th be- th fere row A French butterfly arrangement is made of yards and yards of tulle and foamy billow of soft white lace. The foundation itself is of soft white-silk, # covered with a muititude , all edged with Valen- , it might almost as well be of ive i occasional unruly ruf- Adait obd fle takes it upon itself to rise in its mighty wrath and have nothing what- ever to do with its former associates. ¥or evening wear this is, perhaps, the prettiest and certainly it is the most ly-away-catch-me-kind. Warm? Well, not very, but it serves nicely to throw about the shoulders between dances and as a “little something” when the moonlight is more tempting than the artificial light and “we're only going to sit just this one dance out.” Pride, by the way, ought to keep one warm, but now and then one sees a very proud frock walking down the street accompanied by a very red nose and blue lips, and as a purplish laven- der is not always becoming, it is per- haps quite as well not to count too much upon Miss Pride, for she is apt to be a bad forerunner than anything else. Warmer wraps and pretty ones as well are being fashioned out of all delicate colors of cashmeres and soft slik and wool materials and for that matter out of the two combined. For instance, the thin fancy silks that look ro heavier than chiffons are used as the outer side and the same color lines the cobweb and gives it an air of prac- {lity without robbing it of its daintiness. And remember one thing. A shawl is a shawl just as long as it is left alone in its sweet simplicity, but it be- comes a wrap when it is fashioned and cut to fitt And as wraps are not the rage, it behooves one to let the scissors and thread strictly alone. To be sure, some fabrics are wider than others and some are woven ex- pressly for this purpose, so that all one has to do is to decide whether it is to be square so that it will fold V-shape from corner to corner or whether it is to be an oblong strip that will cover the head and shoulders comfortably. The regulation crocheted shawl is only worn in the privacy of one's boudoir and even then not in the pres- ence of a chance guest, for while it is unquestionably cozy it is also unde- niably homely and the girl of to-day will have none of it. Handsome lace in any form is al- ways fit and the girl who has an old cream shawl that may be draped about her shoulders is in clover. And scarfs and mantillas, by the way, are being converted into this popular “throw.” In fact, almost’ any plece of drapery that may be caught up hastily and that has the appearance of a charm- ing happy-go-lucky bit 6f carelessness is quite the thing and half the thimbles of pretty girls throughout the country are busy crocheting this latest bit of cocuetry. — Answers to Correspondents HUNTING COSTUME—(A. W.). The time has passed when it was con- sidered policy to wear all one’s old ciothes in a camping trip. In the first place, they occupy toc much val- uable space. Get a heavy brown ma- terjal, washable, and have it made into a plain shirt waist suit and, by the way, have the walst and skirt sewed together and opened in the side. The collar should be attached and the ordinary turnover one that looks so neat with a Windsbr tie. Tan knee length boots are not expensive and very durable and comfortable and if you can afford a big brown hat you have everything that you need and will be a great deal neater looking than anybody else in the camp. GLOVES—(Fanny). Wear either silk or kid gloves. Either is correct, S0 you may please yourself. Perhaps more silk one: . re worn in summ- -~ on account of the heat, and certainly they are more popular at night, for they are thin and show pretty rings quite plainly, whereas the heavier ones would cover them up completely. Yes, gloves are worn to match your frock. In fact, boots, glowes, hats and parasols are supposed to tone ex- actly these days. COLD BATHS—(Amy). You are the one to judge best whether to take a cold bath in the morning. I would not advise you to try the tub at first, but begin with the sponge bath. Fill the bowl wiii cold water and put some rock salt into it and give your- self a vigorous rubbing Jown. After- ward rub yourself unt. you fairly glow with a Turkish towel and do not stop this until you are warm and comfortable. If you leave the bath- 1Tt Women_- Want 1o Kpew By Madge Moore room feeling chilly you may depena upon it that the bath will do you no Bood; .instead you may catch cold. After trying the sponge bath for sev- eral mornings fill the tub and see if it is too much of a shock for you. If Yyou can stand it you may feel reason- ably safe from colds and, in fact, from a multitude of annoying i:° that crop up so plentifully. Those who are ac- customed to them take them every morning and feel that the day is not properly begun if they are omitted. COOKING TOUGH MEAT TENDER (N. M. J.). It is quite true that a good cook can prepare tough meat so that it will be tender and palatable. The secret is in the selection of the meat, in the correct seasoning of it and cook- ing it slowly. Continuous rapid boiling makes any meat, and particularly beef, dry and tasteless. Rapid boiling for five minutes to seal the juices in the meat, then slow cooking, just below the boiling point, for several hours,accord- ing to the quantity and quality of the meat, makes it tender and palatable, Putting meat in cold water or water below the boilin~ point, draws out the natural juices and leaves the meat tasteless; adding salt as soon as the meat is put in the water also impairs its flavor by drawing out the juices, leaving the fiber flat and tough. The mest approved method of cooking tough meat tender is as follows: Sup- pose you have a piece of beef from the under round, which is rich in nutritive qualities but tough from developed muscles. Trim off all the outer skin, which imparts a strong and unpleasant flavor, rinse quickly and dry. Put two tablespoonfuls of fresh beef suet, cut in small pleces, in a kettle and when the fat is partly tried out lay the meat in the hot kettle, turning it from side to side until the surface is seared over. This coating prevents the escape of the Jjuices and also the absorption of the water. Then add sufficlent boiling water to partly cover the meat, boil rapidly for four or five minutes, draw toward the back of the range and sim- mer slowly until the meat is tender, allowing about twenty minutes to each pound if the meat is in one large piece. After the meat has cooked one hour add a palatable seasoning of salt, pep- per and a slice of onion, carrot or bou- quet of kitchen herbs, if liked. If additional water is required it should always be boiling hot and it is also important that the kettle cover fits per- fectly or that portion of the meat not covered by water will be tough and rare when the part in the water will be overdcne. d GOOSE FLESH—(Katherine). You can get rid of the coarse rough flesh, but it will take a little time and pa- tience. In the first place, buy a cam- el's hair brush and scrub your arms well with it every night. Then after thoroughly drying your arms apply the following lotion: Tincture of ben- zoin, 1 fluid drachm; tincture of tolu, 20 drops; rose water, 1 pint. If your arms are unusually thin try a gentle massage and rub in some good skin food. It may take about as long as a month for the goose flesh to disap- pear and then I should advise the use of another lotion to make the arms white and pretty: Pure glycerin, 1 ounce; hydrochloric acid, specific gravity 1-16, 1 imperial fluid drachm; rose water, 2 fluld ounces; bichloride of mercury (crystals) 6 grains; dis- tilled water, 4 ounces; alcohol, 2 ounces. Dissolve the bichloride of mercury in the alcohol, then add the other ingredients. Keep in a tightly stoppered bottle away from the reach of children. This is a well known pharmaceutical preparation, Mgi.s indorsed, but is intended for external use only. BODILY CARE IN MIDDLE LIFE (BE. M. H.).—Many are ‘he inquiries to the editor of this department from women who find themselves taking on bulk as they approach middle life. Most of these inquiries are couched in apologetic terms, as if the sender was ashamed of their rotundity. The question is an important one to all women, hence I consider space in this department well used in treating upon it. The deposit of fat which accu- mulates over the abdomen after a per- son has past middle life is often very difficult to reduce and yet much can be done to restore the form and relieve this burden, but the treatment must be persistent and regular. If the figure is greatly enlarged at this point before any method of reduction is resorted to, of course the improvement will be slow, but none the less sure if pre- served in. Short exercise cannot quickly undo the work of months or Yyears. When one is too stout it is wise to abstain from starchy, fat and sweet food. A dlet which will supply strength rather than fat is an import- ant factor in combating such condi- tions. ExXercise is the next essential. If from years, occupation or surround- ings long walks are not practicable, do as much walking as possible and sup- plement with mechanical exercise to assist in breaking down the fat cells which have accumulated in the mus- cular tissues and which will be elim1- nated through the circulation of the blood. Unless afflicted with rheu- matism I suggest the following exer- cise clad only in a loose gown: Raise the hands above the head, fingers to- gether, and bend the body forward at the waist until the finger tips touch the floor, if possible without bending the knees. Then raise the body slow- ly and bend backward, just enough to bring the muscles of the abdomen taut without strain. Repeat twice each day until fatigued; ten or fifteen times is enough at first. Then massage the abdomen, using a massage roller. The movement should be up and down and from side to side and the pressure rather heavy, protecting the skin by using the roller over a thin towel or undervest. WRINKLES ON THE FOREHEAD (Agnes).—Deep Ilines across the fore- head are difficult to completely eradi- cate unless the habit of raising the brows is corrected, then it is merely the Iapor of a few weeks, unless one is aged. Massage, whether dry or ac- companied with an unguent, must al- ways be preceded by the thorough cleansing of the skin with warm soapy water. As oils are more or less of- fensive in hot weather I would sug- gest that you use a good skin food only once each day, preferably at night, and dry massage in the morning. Rub the cream lightly over the forehead, then place the finger tips of both hands above the nose and draw backward toward the temples in a stroke motion. Repeat this for ten minutes then begin at the temple and go over the forehead near the hair in a rotary movement, using just enough cream to prevent irritating the skin. Begin lower down and continue just above the eyebrows, then go over each deep wrinkle, also in a rotary movement, repeating many times. Then stroke the skin upward, from the eyebrows, directly across the deep lines. In the morning wash the face with soap to remove all traces of oil and massage, this time without the use of the cream, but with the move- ments as described. As a completion, rinse the face with cold water to which has been added one-half teaspoonful of prepared benzoin, or fifteen drops of the simple tincture of camphor to a quart of water. This will act as a tonie, whitening and cooling the skin. TO PREPARE A ROSE PILLOW (Mrs. O. E.).—To prepare rose leaves for a pillow gather the fresh petals during the middle of a clear day when free from dew or rain. All kinds of roses may be used and the blossoms should be pulled apart and the petals spread out thinly on sheets of tissue paper in any airy place away from the direct rays of the sun to dry. As soon as the petals begin to curl up and feel dry to the touch they must be put in a roomy bag of thin cheese cloth to prevent blowing about, in a cool, dry room, where the air circulates freely. Unless this part of the work Is care- fully done the petals will have a dis- agreeable musty odor. Pillows filled with dried flowers are generally more or less spiced, according to individual taste, but if you wish to retain the true odor only it will be necessary to add the perfume of the fresh rose, lost in the drying proces by a small quantity of the best rose sachet powder or a few drops of attar of roses placed with the sufficient quan ied petals. When & ¥ of dried petals has d to fill a pillow been accumulat of desired size make a pillow of any suitable material and fill, ding the perfume or sack osed in a small envelope and cove a casing of daintily figured rose or pale yellow and green s About ¢ three months renew the sachet ripping open a small corner of the case and putting in a small quantity of the fresh perfume; treatment will the iously sweet all ime. TREATING DISCOLORED SKIN ).—When the skin of the colored by the application of a plaster of mustard or anything else which is in ne treat- ment must be of a very soothing na- ture and applied frequently to hasten the restoration of the natural color. Do not use any preparation which is large- 1y composed of glycerine, for it will fr- ritate the skin. Oil is most valuable, for it will nourish the pores, softening any dead cuticle, which may then be wiped away without pain or soreness, and it also prevents the parched skin from peeling deeply. Sweet oll or cocoa butter are both excellent, and the spot should be freely anointed before re- tiring and enough rubbed in at inter- vals during the day to keep the skin moist. As soon as the tenderness is re- lieved make a solution of peroxide of hydrogen. one part to five parts of water, and dabble the spot freely sev- eral times each day. This will usually bleach out:any remaining discolora~ tion. Watch the spot closely, and If it still shows a drawn, parched appear- ance rub in a little oil from time to time, while continuing the use of the solution. Dilute only a small quantity of the peroxide dally, for it loses strength quickly. Keep the undiluted portion in a cool place and away from the light. d to blister, t IMPROVING OIV.Y HAIR—(Edna). Hair which is inclined to be excessively olly is always especially provoking during the summer when a girl wishes to look her best. Perspiration, humid- ity and the more abun ral flow of oil conspire to keep the dainty girl in constant perplexity as to what to do to prevent the obnoxlous stringy look so fatal to good grooming. While the free use of soaps, ammonia, ete., will keep the hair dry, excessive clean- ing is not advisable as it causes the hair to lose its pretty shade and take on a dull faded look. Constant sham- pooing, like bathing, may be overdone, The following regimen is practicai and without detrimental effects. Brush the hair daily for at least fifteen minutes, night and morning. Shampoo once in three weeks. Massage gently while ap- plying a tonic lotion. Have your drug- gist prepare this lotic Forty graias of resorcin, two ounces of alcohol, one ounce of bay rum and two ounces dis- tilled water. Rub well into the scalp once each day for two weeks, after which every alternate night will be sufficient.