The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 10, 1904, Page 14

14 THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. uresque femi- her debut with roses. A breath of s seems to linger about her s as spark- g s rose this edit X T at-grand- r Firs borrowed tured and the fichu's r girl is a dia- ft, fluffy full at the hip t the bottom. f mousseline, bbinet it matters not, but s a fichu that is made on new plan, for she brooks no ny of th To be sure nt not a study and the display of surprising ingenuity, but er frocks are d upon her favorite theme,™ a chou of white roses dangled. » so far, alike. w printed silk mousselines of Varden order, but as much s modern appliques can make k as though the freshest blos- soms of the season have been dropped essly over them. The latter stands relief like panne velvet, and over a contrasting shade effect of these mousselines nad tching. white one with violets sprink- t has been worn by the lassie of colors is Invariably The one bit of color was the let silk which the fichu was draped rogsing V fashion in front, fast- t the waist line with a baroque N pin. Occasionally the triple frills of the fichu may be piped with black baby ribbon to give a little Frenchy touch, and the ends hang =e choice velvet from the waist line nearly to the bot- tom of the skirt. The new printed bobbinets are splen- aid fichu effects, and are great fa- vorites with the summer girl. which has A white small pink rosebuds it dresses up a plain gown till it scarcely knows itself, and y no one else does. A pretty to finish such a one is to edge double accordion pleated ruffies with a pink chenille cord. This crosses in the front and fastens at the walst line in the back, falling like sash ends to the bottem of the frock. One of the most charmingly original fichus was made to wear with a mid- summer frock of printed fishnet. The latter had a seagreen figure and was made over green silk. The fichu really was a rose collar. It was made of small white botton roses sewed lengthwise together to resemble sprays, and was laced in and out with black velvet rib- bons, which had long ends from'which one scattered over way WIINT WOLTEN TO KNO CCASIONTLIY - g COQUE FERITHERS e, Pink cherry blossoms may be used effectively upon such a gown, and also white roses and marguerite dalsies. Even violets may be utilized for this fichu effect, and when perfumed will please the sense quite as much as the eye. Flowers for this sort of decora- tion need not be necessarily made of silks and velvets and fashioned after the regulation factory style, for among the prettiest and daintiest accessories are the flowers fashioned from bits of ribbon and made in spare minutes at home. The girl who is not blessed with a well-rounded out pocket book should espouse the fichu cause with great fer- vor. Why? Simply because two gowns will serve for six, and the transforma- tion is made by using a varlety of fichus. A simple white frock trimmed with one made of pale blue chiffon, hand painted with a border of pink rosebuds, looks absolutely different from the same foundation trimmed with a soft white mull, with billows of dainty ruffles all edged with valen- clennes. Or again the fichu may be made of three ruffies of lace and caught at the walst line with a flower or a soft bow of satin ribbon. An exquisitely dainty fichu may be made of white chiffon. It has two four and a half inch frills of accordion pleated chiffon. And one eof its best W»Xffl})’ ZACE A SED TS X FICHT ore ° 7 M ITIrZZ A e points 1s that it may be worn bertha fashion around the top of a bodice with either a high or a low necked gown, or it may be worn crossed in front and fastened with a dainty floral pin. And, by the way, fioral pins are & new ornament that have been turned out as a finishing touch for the fichu. Not of silver nor yet of gold are they fashioned, but of chiffon, to match the fichu itself. For instance, one was made to represent an exaggerated edel- weiss with folded petals. A safety pin underneath keeps the blossom in posie tion and at the same time holds the fichu itself firmly in place. The slender girl who can stand quan- tities of fluff and feather causes the pleating to stand out gracefully, so that it really flares at the edge. When made after this style one thing must be remembered and that is in dry cleaning them the edge of the frills must be tacked so that the pleatings will not come out. If this is neglected the fichu might as well be relegated to the darkest corner in the attic, for it droops in a pathetic way and acts as though it was most woe- fully ashamed of itself. An imported fichu, which, by the way, is strikingly Parisian, is made of wide, white silk lace. Two long plas- trons of all-over lace are made over pale yellow silk. These cross over the shoulders and are edged with two rows of four-inch lace. They meet at the waist line in the back and are closed with a jabot of black velvet which has long ends. The ends in front are finished in jabot fashion, also with black velvet ribbons. These pretty things are not only worn with thin white or daintily colored organdies, but with other fabrics as well, for as an accessory for silk voile or challie there is nothing more grace- ful or chic for a finish about the shoulders. Of course, nothing is quite as handsome as rare old laces, and the girl who is fortunate enough to possess Irish point or any rare old bits is in clover, for they can never be used tg better advantage. Spanish laces made charming ones, and the three-cornered mantilla fre- quently served a double purpose. When worn for a fichu the back should be laid in crosswise folds and caught at the top of the bodice so that it will stay in position. The long ends are then tied in front and are permitted to bang gracefully where they will. The 1aoe is smart in ftselt, but black velvet roseties on the ends and a large chou oSN . . of black velvet ribbon where it closes, perhaps a trifle to the left, is a smart effect that is well worth the trouble and time expended. Soft point @esprit is pretty, particu- larly when made circular in three sec- tions, one and three-quarter yards long and twelve inches wide. It is maade pointed In front by a slanting cut from the outer edge five-eighths of a yard from the ends. The edge is then finished with three rows of black chenille cord, stitched with white silk thread. W#en finished such a fichu should be fastened to the waist just above the bust line with rosettes of black velvet ribbon. Handkerchiefs are another material that should not be neglected, for since their craze they have been evolved for the uses of these squares, and right smart ones they make, too. The newest fad is to take a man’s large silk handkerchief, cut a circular hole in the center about eight inches deep, then slash the silk from the center to one point. This leaves a deep flounce g WAITE St A — that hangs In graceful folds and which may be used on the edge of Indian silk for a fichu. Although the soft white necker- chief of our grandmothers has evolved into an elaborate affair, it is still quite as plcturesque and apparently quite as popular. The fichu has but one fault— it will “ride” up the back of one's neck unless properly folded, and if it is loosened, to allow the folds to straighten cut, the two sides will not meet properly in front without giving a drawn look: so it behooves omne to have them properly cut and properly folded. Another secret which is worth re- membering is given upon the authority of an expert fichu-maker. She says for a square yard fichu the ruffles should be at least six yards long before gath- ering. In other words, a yard and a half of ungathered ruffling should be allowed for every yard of material. ADVERTISEMENTS. A BEAUTIFUL when the furrow is deep. For developing the dust or to make preast firm, larse and beautiful, -O: #san equal it. To prevent the breast from phrinking. mothers should always use Dry Charles Flesh Food after weaning baby. 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