The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 10, 1904, Page 10

POPRADOTE She wears a hand-painted gown and hand-painted shoes and stockings; she carries a hand-painted fan and para- sol, and her stock, belt, her sash and all her other ap- pointments, not forgetting her white chip hat, are paint- ed by hand. A Newport gown and its color motif, parrot and spinach green, are the tones of the season—Little frills of Dame Fashion's world. BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. x of colors reigns while she who manage to paint fashion. ted fabri re are hand- s, from the parasols, an¥ been there ar > abrics of every weight, nainted broad- cloth gowr ht hand-painted at well is no easy task girl of the summer goes at od American pluck, and for he t may be said that she succeeds remar y well, for, with true Americ ses her colors them out artis- There are k pzinted gowns, de- licious chiffons, exquisite laces with ¥ nted touch, gorge- ous satir ¢ weight velvets which are works of art Indeed, no less a to be classed as nd decorated. than Sargent himself we to paint a lace flounce for leader of American fash- fon. He @ ed, but laughingly de- clared that it was a great temptation to him. There are lovely lace flounces of little intrinsic value because done by the hand of ‘the amateur at home, but ewfully pre just the same! There is something so light and feminine about the colors as they are laid upon the fabrice that one cannot help being tempted by them, even though one knows that they are delicate and not to be worn more than one season, or two &t the most. The American girl, who is usually of economic mind and of durable intent, bhas fallen first victim to the hand- painted craze. Its prettiness was too much for her. She was captivated by the colors” and before thé fad had be- come full grown across the waters, where it started, she was one of its willing admirers at home. And why not? The hand-painted girl is & new girl; she is a pretty girl; her gowns look feminine, and they are mot necessarily dear, so why should she not long to be hand-painted? The First Painted Gown. The first oil-painted gown of the sea- son came from Paris. Here, under the watchful eye of the best modiste in France, it grew. Gradually it developed from & poor little insignificant dress into one with all its straight breadths done in roses and with its yoke and cuffs all trailing with the same blos- soms and flowers, It was a gown of chiffon broadcloth end was designed for a wedding. The mother of the “-'3~, wishing her to wear something new and lovely, bar- Or 752 2R725 OF HER FAT SHE NS FLOHHERS - tered a small fortune to secure a gown which should be absolutely novel. It was a decided success and its color, a delicious shade of burnt cream, was most charmingly brought out with its garlands and branches of garden roses. While there is a tendency toward the wild flower decorations it must be ad- mitted that the American girl has t e the fondness. for the product of the hothouse. She likes the rose, but it is not necessarily the wild rose. She paints the orchid, not the orchid of the jungle, but the orchid of the conser- vato She paints the violet, but it is the heavy violet of cultivation, not the little soft violet of the wildwoods. These things are important to know, for they mark the boundary between style and no style at all; they show the difference between the professional and the amateur. In Newport there is a smart set. This is the set whose leaders are million- es and whose debutantes are the catches of the season. In this set there is one girl who is a hand-painted girl; scarcely ever is she seen without some- thing of the hand-painted kind. This girl recently paid a trip to town and this is what she bought: One small cream eilk fan mounted on white enamel, with no decorations of any kind. Then she bought a large cream colored parasol, also perfectly plain. To this she added a white cream silk so- clety bodice cut on blouse lines. And, finally, she purchased enough cream silk for a dress skirt. These goods, which were to ‘'be all painted by hand, she shipped to her home In Newport. Later the soclety columns will record her wonderful gown and will declare it an artistic ideal. Nor must the hat Le forgotten, for no costume is complete without the hat this year. The hat which went with this cream colored gown was a hand- painted Milan straw, with the under side of the brim a dream in roses.’ And there were other articles neces- sary for the girl who is hand decorated. To Be All Hand Painted. If you want to be a hand-painted summer girl there are many things you must have. And among them are these: You must have a gown with enough bhand painting upon it to make it dis- H \l THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL.) tinctive. A beautiful garden party dress, one that can be worn next win- ter as a dinner gown, was of onion green taffeta, of the soft quality which does not crack or muss. This gown, which was made With the plain round skirt, just escaping the floor, was trimmed around the foot with two wide ruffies, These ruffles were twelve inches deep and were shirred around the foot of the skirt with a little heading of Valenclennes lace. At the bottom of each ruffle there was a band of deep green taffetd on which was painted & running vine of ivy. The waist had the long shoulders all ivory painted, and there were mus- £ | “WHY CRABS WALK BACKWARD"” ER wuz a day an’ time,” said Aunt Nancy, “w'en dar wan't no yearf a-tall an' de Lawd jes' hatter set ter wu'k an’ mek it all f'um de bottom er de lowes’ Eea ter de top er de highes’ mountain. Den he set ter wu'k on de creeturs. Honeys, dat wuz a big job! He fes' had one pattern ter go by, an’ all dar Wwuz to hit wuz body, laigs, haid an’ tall, an’ yit he done mek ‘em ev'y one diff'nt. Las' dey wuz all done, ‘scusin’ der haids, an' cey wuz ev’y las one diff'nt f'um tu'rr. De Lawd tuck an’ put 'em in & row in front uv im an’ den he sot ter wu'k on de haids. I tell you dat wuz a mighty ticklish time w'en de Lawd have all de haids pile’ up, waitin' fer de owners, 'kase hit moughter bin dat de wrong haid an’ body got toge'rr, er dey moughter bin {’ined slanchways, er dey moughter bin 6 quetaire cuffs painted with ivy. Of course, there was a hat wreathed in ivy leaves, and on the under side or the brim there were painted leaves of ivy. A fan cut in the shape of the ivy and beautifully tinted was carried with © this gown, and a parasol trimmed with & hand-painted band of green silk. In addition to the gown the hand- painted girl must have other things. She will need a gown with painted yoke and cuffs—Iif no more! She will need a hand-painted sash, and for this what is better than the great wide sash ribbon all decorated ‘with pompadour roses? Bhe will need a pdir of hand-painted slippers, if it be an evening or plazza il ANTED MG Gl & po'fit, but den dish yer wuz de Lawd doin’ dls, so in co’se dar wan't gwine be no slip-up. “‘Come yer, Efalent, sez de Lawd, sezee, an’ wid dat Efalent walk up an’ git his hald on an’ go twis’in’ an’ curl- in’ his trunk an’ raisin’ up his voice ‘twel de groun’ plumb shuk wid de soun’, v “ ‘Come yer, Dog,’ sez de Lawd, sezee, an’ wid dat dog he go trottin® up an’ git his haid putt on an’ go off waggin’ his tail an’ flappin’ his years an’ bark- in’ at ev'yb’dy he meet. “Jesso 'twuz wid all de creeturs, f'um de Efalent down ter Ii'l ol' Mis’ Ant, an’ dey wuz all please’ an’ sassified, but w'en it come ter de turn er Mistah Crab, he hilt back an’ he say, ‘Naw suh, 'scuse me, suh, ef I ain’ come for- wu'd.” ¢ “TuWrr creeturs wuz all-scannelize’ at gown. And, with the slippers, there must go a pair of hand-painted stocke ings. And such stockings—all cuplds and angels and flylng streamers of ribbon. ‘The fan is a necessity, and its only rule is that it shall be tiny, while the sticks, the covering and the ribbon streamers that fly from it may all be painted. And you will want a painted straw hat. This is the easiest of all to ob- tain, for any girl with a spark of inge- nuity and a paint brush can take her old white chip and tint it; while if it be a handsome straw of the expensive sort she can put a few touches upon it to bring out the beauty of the straw and farnish the hand-painted note. Little Additional Touches. In addition to these things the ambi- tious girl can, at small expense, paint herself a stock, a girdle, an adjustable lace yoke for the neck and another one for the skirt, and she can have all the parasols she wants. When it comes to lace fichus and fichus of mull and to a matter of hand-painted lace and hand- painted pocket handkerchiefs of white silk to tuck in the front of the gown, she can makeé them for herself. And she can have sashes and neck chous with painted ends and wonderful scarfs for the hat which give it a very dressy note. The fad of the hand-painted girl, while an elegant one, is not necessarily a costly one; for, like many another passing vogue, it depends more upon willingness and ingenuity and personal taste than upon actual dollars and cents. “One rule,” says & French dress- maker, “must be observed: Don't at- tempt to carry out the colors in pastel tones. This is old fashioned. The up- to-date hand-painted girl is vivid with lilacs in their purplest tones. She is gorgeous in wistaria blue as a plum in.d ripe with deepest green follage. She is his imp’ence an’ dey nudge him an’ tell him ter go ’'long an' quit his foolish- ness. “‘Come yer, Crab,’ sez de Lawd, sezee, ‘an lemme year w'at ’scusses you kin mek fer dis 'havishness.’ “ ‘Please, suh,’ sezee, ‘you mus’ ‘scuse me, suh, but I ain’ want you ter putt my haid on me; I knows 'tain’ gwine feel comf'ble. I wanster putt my own haid on, 'kase hit stan’ ter reason dat I mus’ know better'n any one else w'en hit feels jes' right.’ “Ef you'll b'lieve me, dar he stood, sassy ez a jay-bird, 'sputin’ an’ argy- fyin’ twel de Lord wuz plumb wo' out wid him an’ gin him de haid, right side up, jes de way 'twuz ter be putt on. Crab he tucken hit inter nis claws an’ hysted hit up even wid his body an’ clapped it on. “Oouch!” sezee, ‘dat kain't be right, feels sort er lop-sided,” the girl who blushes not deeper than the popples with which her parasol is painted, and she wears roses that are a blood red, not the faint, delicate pink roses of the old-fashioned sort. When you paint use the brighter tones rather than the faded, qull tints.” So declared. the artistic French woman. And there is another rule which the hand-painted girl would do well to ob- serve. Choose your flower and stiek to it. If you select the wisteria vine, which is an effectfve pattern if done upon India lawn, let all your decora- tions be of wisteria. Do not try to mix up the flowers. “Do I like the hand painted idea?" sald an American dressmaker. “Yes, immensely for the summer girl. It is a novelty, cheap and pretty.” So why should it not-be the most popular thing of the year? “As for me, I specially llke the hand painted blouses of plain silk. I buy them to fit my customers, all ready made, and then I send them to the studio to be painted.” And throw- ing open a door, this modiste revealed a row of young women, all busily painting silk shirt waists. It looked more like the studio of an artist than a room in a dressmaking establish- ment. But it {s an innovation to which we of fashion’'s world must lovingly bow. The Colors of the Summer. The select colors this season are the vegetable colors. They are onion green, asparagus green, pea green, let- tuce green and watercress green. Then in the reds one notes watermelon pink, which is very red; beet red, radish red and carrot red. In the yellows there is a very smart squash colored cloth, and there are flower yellows galore, buttercup, yel- low rose, daffodil yellow and the yel- low of the cowslips. It is strange how many new tones one can find and how readily they can be recognized at a glance. The new burnt cream tone is quite different from the creamy tint, and there is flesh color, which differs from both. It is a good thing for the woman of the geason to accustom herself to the new tints, for she may be able to get something specially smart by paying attention to the Innovations in the color line. The woman who clings by prefer- ence to the old shades should be sure to select tones that hold thelir style, for there is nothing funnier, from a fashionable standpoint, than a gown that is made up in a color that is not popular now. Don’'t try to be a suc- cessful dresser in old colors and mediocre fabrics. It cannot be done. Parrot and onion green are the lats est in Dame Fashion’s world to wi popularity for themselves, and to be gowned in these, with trimmings of a deeper shade or with contrasting trimmings of coral or tomato, is to be very smartly costumed, indeed. Girlish Garments Are Worn. All women want to look younger this year and here are a few little frills of fashion which add to one's youthful appearance. If you want to look girl- ish around the belt you must put on one of the girdles of crushed satin. Let the girdle for afternoon or evening be of pink. Let it be very wide and very soft and very thin, but decidedly lus- trous. Do not furnish it with sash ends, but let it be completed with two rosettes at the back. These can be of medium size and should be put on two inches apart, to make the waist look small and trim. If far apart, these rosettes have a tendency to make the belt look too wide. And there is another way to look youthful, and this is to trim with little ruffles and with frills. Let there be flounces and tucks, and let each be edged with a narrow ruffle of lace, preferably of Valenciennes. There is an’ wid dat he gin hit a 1f'1 hitch ter one side. Mo’ wusser dan befo'! ‘Shucks!’ sezee, ‘dat won' do; feel lak T sort er whopper-jawed,’ an’ he gin hit nu'rr Ii'l hitch. He kep” nit up dat-a- way ’twel he had de haid on plumb “upside down an’ den he wuz sassified an’ widout so much ez ‘thankv’ da no yoke that is quite SO - the one that is trimmed with narrow lace frills. And there is no sklr; so girlishly dressy as the one that 1is P“r< orated with lace ruffles or with musiin flounces. Don’t forget this in making your summer wns. And remems‘e‘: that there are several kinds of Val. lace. There Is dainty French Valenclennes which is a8 dressy as any other lace of aristocratic lineage. There is the heavy German Valenclennes lace. And there is the expensive Valenciennes of the Italian school, with its outstanding pattern. You can get It good enough for frill- ing for from 8§ cents downward. And. really, there is no lace more popular for all fabrics. She who wants to be very vouthful must not wear silk, but fine linem. though it is doubtful if there are many who will feel able to afford this luxury A Fitth avenue importer of forelsn linens, India, Frencn and Orlental kinds, displays small patterns just They enough for linen shirt walsts. are all hand embroidered and are un made. They are selling for $35 a pat- tern and there are others at $50 The secret of it is that they look like thread lace and there are certaln pat- terns that are the very image of point lace. So that for $50 a woman secures a bodice which is made of point lace or which looks so much like point that you cannot tell the difference. Wide Collars and Other Frills. A summer feature is the wide collar. It is made of various materials, one of the prettiest being of white taffeta. It has black polka dots applied. These dots are of black silk upon the back- ground of white silk. Around the edge there is a piping of black silk, and, underlying the collar, thers are points of salmon pink taffeta. Each point is trimnred with a lace medallion. Such a collar dresses up any evening blouse wonderfully. Worn over black or whits it really makes the whole dress, for it gives the note which was lacking. It 1s the, wide sailor collar effect which 1s liked by those who admire fine dress- ing. It lengthens the shoulder, trims the neck, and, with a pair of cuffs to match, it makes the gown. With the large sailor collar laid on flat one sees the neckless or stockless gown. Frequently the neck has no other finish than this wide, flat collar. And this brings one to a consideration of the velvet throat band. This is be- ing much worn. It is wide and Is crossed in the front and fastened with a cameo pin. The style is not a new one and any grandmother of the pres- ent day will tell you how it was worn in her girlhood. The band is sometimes put on plain and crossed in the back or finished at the back of the neck with a tulle chou. In the front there dangles a locket. The revival of the velvet neck band is one of the prettiest of the summer styles and the woman Who does not include a set of these bands of vary ing widths, and wrist bands to match, misses one of her prettiest opportuni- ties. And the best point in these neck and wrist bands must not be forgot- ten. They afford the touch of black. The touch of black is necessary everything and no black is as de able as black velvet. Little black v vet choux are admirable with every gown and black velvet pipings and pipings of chiffon velvet are found upon the most expensive of foreign importations. There are other freaks of fashi And one of these is the frayed ruffle looking precisely like a Take silk and make a ruffle c Fray it upon the edge, using a knife if you have no frayi dull '® machine. Make the ruffle full and you have a charming trimming. One of these ruf- fles, thrown around a hat, looks pre- cisely like a garland of flowers. Made into choux and rosettes they look like the ragged pinks of the garden. Study your summer gowns a little and add these tiny home-made touches. It will repay you to do so. o+ % ongrateful creetur putt out fer whar he camed f'um, w'ch ‘twuz down by de sea sho’. “But bless yo' soul, his idees wuz all turnt upside down "long wid his haid, an’ w'at did he done but run back- wu'ds stidder forwu'ds, “'Lawsy!’ sezee, ‘seem lak I ain’ gittin’ over de groun' same ez tu'rr creature. W'ats de marter wid me! Look lak ev'ything runnin’ ‘way f'um me stidder gittin® closter to hit. ‘Spec’ 1 better go back an’ ax 'bout dis.” “Well, suh, he had de mmsurance ter 80 backin’ hisse'’f up in front er de Lawd an’ ax him 'bout de marter, but de Lawd jes’ chet spang down on him an’ tol' him dat gence he done tucken his haid in his own han's he mus’ stan’ de commonsquinces ef 'twan’t putt on right. Ever sence den de crabs bin doin’ der runnin’ backwu'ds.” From “At the Big House ' 7 g House." by Anne Virginia