The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 19, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. '’ 11 the numerous frills and ws, the one that possesses and that bued Wwith the ion from which it stands first picturesque cos- peasants and the the date by their their make are the bathing epressible individuality again and portrays of both the maker the told and who dives into the water wants n girl chic and serviceable me. Not so the French € goes to the beach because T d she dons a bath- it is consistent and s vastly becoming. e, she knows quite >t consider the dur- aterial, for 1if 'she ey surf to the depths nkles it would be en- that swims is a rsooth, the French in for any sort of t of a wonder if y and money, and a was endowed with i a flat pocket-book le wom: ecds a one, in fact, as ge American In the is ex n. F first tly made of some at iatily = pleated and perfect- ¥ kind, with the exception ee four tucks at the bottom skirt. So short € fact, that the e a consider- The waist of ten, is fitted over 2 nd is a shaped trimmed with stitched bands of ty r more colors and frequently embroidered with contrasting r hair is b ingly and ssed and it is really the troubles, for it never by chance is disarranged or arely has the opportunity sed. Cap y unknown, besides they a rule, and it never is the business of a born coguette to eppear at any time or place excepting she is at her level best. However, she doesn't take any chances for freckles on her nose and a skin that is brown and burned would never do, so she considers it her bounden duty to purchase the niftiest, fullest sunshades in the shops. They serve admirably as hats when tiited at the most becoming angles. Certainly no one could expect her to travel over the sands from the bath- house to the water without a flufty covering. So miladl orders a military cape that reaches the ground and as B a B never, Prio it 1s always of a delicate shade it looks far more like an opera cloak than anything eise, though her bare feel, peeping in and out, causes one to stop and wonder for an eighth of For a French woman, it known, never wears stockings when a second. be in bathing. It's really too much of a nuisance. Instead she sticks her feet into white canvas sandals and unters slowly on her way followed a train of ardent admirers, who carry everything from a camp chalr to a fan, r sitting idly in the sun frequently causes niilladi not a little exertion. Fancy a girl who cared a fig for a championship taking her daily plunge in such a bathing suit. She doesn’t want certein rites performed and so frequently steals into the surf when half the summering world is still asleep. Her suit, by the way, is distinctly characteristic and one that she has evolved to suit herself. In the first place, her first and chief requirement is that it shall be absolutely comfort- able and in order to be this it must be of material that will retain littie or no water. At best, no fabric is sleve-like. Taffeta, China silk and satin are expensive at the beginning, but if they are a good quality and are well made and properly cared for they will easily stand the wear and tear of several seasons. ‘‘No suit will retain its i //l TOS SITANFORD | /TU BY freshness and colors 1f it Is not rinsed out in fresh water and hung in the shade to dry. The salt -invariably gives a rusty tone and even the smart- est will look old early in the sgason. China stlk Is soft and sheds the water nicely, but it has one objection, and If one has to economize, it is a decidedly weighty one. Undergar- ments of the same color must be worn, 8o an additional mite is added to the summer’s expense. The question of wearing corsets and girdles is one that each and every wo- man must settle for herself. Yet what a bit of foolishness they are. No mat- ter if they are loose, there is never the same freedom and the same liberty and the woman who expects to geally swim would about as soon think of having her skirt made with a train. However, a rust proof girdle has been invented and, for that matter, an astounding array of swimming clothes that are warranted to prove most al- luring. ' Even though all these acces- sories are fashioned of net and feather- bone, every ounce counts and the addi- tional weight, If nothing else, makes the ardent swimmer hesitate. Of all suits the red mohair are the smartest, particularly when made with a shirred or pleated skirt. An especial- ly fit one has a full shirred skirt and an ‘elastic girdle, also shirred, which gives a pretty outline to the figure. The . waist is simplicity itself. Rather round in the throat and full as &ny baby walst that ever was fashioned. Even the sleeves carry out the same shirred effect and it is only a matter of coure tesy that dubs them sleeves at all, for they are scarcely bigger than a minute. Navy blue is a popular color for sults and one of the prettiest designs shows a flock of gulls flylng across the skirt and walst. And by the way, perhaps you did not know that bathing suits ‘are designed, especially if one Is willing to pay-a couple of dollars extra. The house calls its designer and she ob- serves.the general style, the figure ard the coloring and then she promptly tegs to work with her pencil and paints. In two or three days gayly colored plates are being delivered by Uncle Sam, and all that remains for miladl fastidious is to ring up the shop and order the red, the blue or the white, according to ‘her fancy. So much for exclusiveness. The girl who llkes to be seen gen- erally selects a white suit with a great anchor in black for its sole decoration. And right fit it is, too, when worn with black stockings, white sandals and a,black and white silk checked cap. Another swell suit is made of white mohair and trimmed with the popular fleur de lis. All about the bottom of the skirt they go and smaller ones form the trimming of the collar and walst. A black belt that buttons se- curely in place completes the . outfit, and really one would have to travel many a weary block to see a prettier, smarter beach costume. Polka dot siits are fetching when trimmed with stitched bands of red or blue, especially if the waist does not boast of a sailor collar, as so many of them do. Instead, a round yoke with the body of the waist fulled on and ‘stitched is a pretty idea and a far newer one, though it is much more trying than the square collars, for if one is very slender it adds its mite and covers up a multitude of deficiencies. For the girl who can wear it, a fitted skirt is chic and neat. Again it does not require nearly as much material as the plaited ones and Is, as a conse- quence, much lighter in welght. It fits tightly about the hips, but is cut to form a wide flare at the bottom. With-this the waist that- buttons o» Bathing Suits From Gantner & Mattern. —_— the side is apropos. Plain’ with, per- haps, the exception of a pretty silk braid, a yoke of tucks and a few In the skirt, it is the simplest garment imaginable. And:sweet simplicity, mind you, is frequently far more trying than yards and yards of frills and furbelows. The suit that is badly cut may be made presentable by trimmings and a few adroit stitches here and there, but the severe costume stands forth on fits merits alone, and if it is good It Is very, very good, and if it is bad it is horrid. Occasionally sees a swagger white suit, embroidered in gay colors, for the heavy Bulgarian embroidery or thé\ popular cross stitch is employed and "permits of two, three and some- timés four brilliant colors. Generally speaking, the trimming runs from the collar to the belt and a narrow strip finishes the sleeves, but it is seldom found In the skirt. Instead of an em- broidered belt, a gayly colored braided silk one is frequently chosen, for it is soft and pliable and makes a decidedly smart finish. one Most of the sleeves on this season’s suits are very short. In fact, they are puffs, and very scant ones at that. More often than not a tiny sleeve does mot boast of a single gather and is in the neighborhood of three or four inches in length. Sleeves that come to the elbow cértainly afford a little more protection, but it must be admitted are not as smart appearing or as comfort- able. Yet there Is one way to get around this difficulty. Long silk glqves or mitts will keep the hands and arms from burning, but as more than half the pleasure In bathing comes from romping and playing, gloves are an annoyance, unless one’s skin 13 espe- cially sensitive to the sun for the girl . but let her choosing 1it, who can wear it prettily, think twice before fi for the glare of the water and the tan that she so quickly acquires, when combined with the rosy reflection from the red make he er look more llke a lobster than an ng else on earth. A suit of red silk, f: ned to look like the Greek peplum, is one of the most attractive shown. he trimming is of white silk braid and of an old pattern. The stockings are of red silk and the mob cap%f the same color, but it sits at an angle that is anything but Greek in effect. Shoes mean not a little to the sum- mer girl and three distinect a leather, in a dull g the soles are p comfortable. Be the tan leather sandals she has her cholce of Soft : good and as are light and 1 there are at are essen- tially Roman. Tt lly are not meant for the water, but for beach wear and so are not so serviceable as the white canvas sandals that strap about the limb and tle just under the knee In a saucy bow. Toe sandals have two good qualities—they save the feet and they save the stockings, which is girl who somewhat of an item to tb takes her daily dip. Hats and sunbonnets are worn more than ever before, for the seaside lassie has come to the edifying conclusion at it is not absolutely necessary for S;\‘ nose to peel or to be tipped a glow- ing shade of crimson. Besides this, she discovered to her everlasting satisfac- tion that a pretty sunshade gave her unexpected opportunities and chances and that she could flirt outrageously with the chap who chanced to be in a bee line and no one else be the wiser. Even if the American girl has begged, borrowed or stolen some trifle for her bathing suit from every other nation under the shining sun, she, herself, is still the same and, In a measure, it is her freedom of movement and her daintiness of dress which have won for her the distinction of carrying off every trophy at a seashore beauty contest. - CRANKS AND HERETICS By The | Parson | HE crank and the heretic are always emerging. Now and again they flash across the stage of action, and circum- stances give them national notoriety for-a time. More often in the ebb and flow of daily life we run up agalnst somebody whom we pronounce, perhaps on snap judgment, perhaps as the re- sult of intimate previous knowledge, a crank or a heretic. They are not so numerous &8 they were affirmed to be by the distinguished Englishman who, after traveling in this country a num- ber of years ago, went home and told his friends that the American nation was made up of 40,000,000 people, mostly fools. But it is surprising how many odd persons there are about us. Begin to-morrow and make a tally of the ones whom you come across during next week and see how large a list you will have by Saturday night. And yet I feel like entering a plea for the crank and the heretle, not for the malicious, harmful. specimen of the class, but for the man who has thought himself out of«the beaten track, who has come conscientiously to espouse some unpopular idea, who is dead set upon some great reform and wonders why the rest of us do not hurry up and come to his point of view, who really believes that he has gotten hold of a new and satisfying truth or seen a vision of what this world might be If only people thought as he did and were ready to act with him. In all such cases we ought te try to get at the real center of the man, to find cut if he has, despite, or it may be in some cases be e of, his fads the real root of the matter in him? that is, 1s he, after ail, a square, clean, kind, earnest man? The other day a cousin of mine returned from a distant State to his former home. I had not seen him for twenty years. I had a faint idea that he had been {mbibing some ideas not quite congenial to me, and when we sat down by the fire one evening to talk over the past, present and future on discovered that he was a thor- ough-going Soclalist. That he had come honestly to such a position I could not doubt, that he could champion it co- gently the course of the evening's dis- cussion proved. But what pleased me best was the man’'s o dignity and unmistakable sincer and good- that, whatever his intel- he was rooted in hat his heart was sympathy with the v men. As another who: ness.e I feit lectual convic right Hving overflowing needs of his such 3 man and are perfectly x, but who car little for his fellov , Iam very su which I should choose as comrade and ally. But besides trying to appreciate the fact that real goodness of life s .mot dependent upon this or that theory ought to be willing to examine ideas which our cranky and her friends hold. For one, for instance, to undertake to combat the single tax the- ory without having read the classi the subject, Henry George's “Progress and Poverty,” would be as foolish as it is to argue against Christianity without having read the New Testament. It is well*to remember that frequently in history the heresy of yesterday becomes the orthodoxy of to-day. The world gets on in its thinking because every now and then a Kepler, a Galileo, a Mar- coni, a Drummond; a Briggs, a Lyman Abbott dares to deviate from the ordi- nary highway of thoughts to venture into unexplored regions, and to broach theories not yet substantiated by fact. Such men often are the pioneers of great advance in the material, the In- tellectual, and the moral life of man- kind. We are all a good deal better off -with the right sort of cranks and heretics than we should be without them. Be charitable, then, In your judgment of this type of persons. It Is a bare possibility that in the judgment of some of your friends you may de a crank or a heretic in some one partic- ular of faith or of life, If not in a good many. But don't be one simply for the sake of getting your name in the news- papers. It never pays to pose In this particular. The world is willing to be led out into larger truth and light, but the world is too old and too clever to be long humbugged. In the long run it will deal fairly by its cranks and its heretics. If they are right-minded, right-hearted men and women, the world may build their monuments after death, and perhaps it may praise them while they live. THE PARSON.