The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 22, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CAL _ ONSIDERING how all-important the eves are to good looks, it is surprising how they are neglected and even treated. of fine eyes will redeem an face, and a girl possessed od complexion may easily { 2 beauty, must be bright, Not only is good condition, but 1 color, to this e eves themselves. in the morning, the eyes sed suddenly a v moments chould be accustom them to the the bedroom before drawing and admitting the full Usht the blinds sd and predispose some of them rom ess both e expands in dark- e suddenly exposed to a n not taking place fatigu ou lors main- k © ivity. it should not t , for this to done by ting the face be open in or twice nient, as t wet at eye cup at a che I it with clear, cold water, and open and shut the eye two or three times in it. Clear water should be used for each eye. A e witch hazel or boracic acid may ed to the water. Warm water is go00od to use occasionally, although its ¢ tinued use tends to redden the eves and make them watery. The eyes should slweys be washed be- fore going bed, to remove the dust the same ist's, to which may have gathered on the lids dur- be day. reserve the round shape of the eye- oceas ly rub them gently, al- toward the nose. As one grows oclder, the eyeballs bave a tendency to become flat When the eyes have become Irritated through e compress of linen, wet with cold water and changed often as it becomes warm, will gener- ally relieve them If the irritation continues, use a lotion made by steeping two ounces of rosemary leaves in & pint of dlstilled water, for twenty-four hours. Then strain and add ] quantity of rosewater and the same amount of brandy. excessive use, As sutomobilies became popular diseases of the eye began to increase. Despite the are worn the wind and the iclent to cause serious in- 1 of the eye and its lids. Soft too, is a menace, as it often causes serious inflammation. The best treatment is a bath of clear water con- taining a Httle witch hazel. Among the patients of oculists the wom- en outnumber the men. Regarding this fact twelve leading oculists have been consulted, 2nd they lay it to the wearing of vells. Women who do not wear veils are less troubled with defects of the eyesight than those who always do so. And yet most women may look forth upon the world through vells without serious injury if they will only wear vells of the right sort. Most eye speclalists disapprove of the dotted vell, but they have nothing to say against those of {llusion or chlffon, which has & fine, even, regular mesh, through which the eye may look without suffer- ing any worse results than come from peering through the finest wire window screen. The dotted vell, however, offers inter- A PN ptions to the sight, distracts the eyes 3 the wearer to focus in dif- Though these direc- ever so slightly, the Many a case of astig- n traced to the baneful 1 veil. nce to the veil .is the with green silk should a glaring light, like ore. seriously strained and e the owner does not wish f or confess to the world it is waning. Put on ver they are needed. Their st and save the eye. It at organ will remain useful v e's close. , who speaks with authority, 2y persons injure ping their glasses shed. They allow ons of focus ¢ result s inj matism has bee to admit to that you glasses whe prope efficie d semi- ned when An occa- s or alco- their appe Alwa uch improved s brush with an outer motion go- ing from the rb. to the end. Brush them occasionally with a camel’s hair n cocoanut ofl. This not e brows glossy, but causes stimulating lotion, which aids growth of eyebrows, is made of two drams of olive oil, quarter dram of tinc- ides and one ounce of ¥ this with a brush once a have been burned off If an ounce of gly- of olive ofl is excel- lime water, should s that have been or equal parts of lime water and linseed ofl. all the care that can , for if they are well they add much to the ws repa given to Answers to ss of a face. < ‘ b ! Correspondents | & - + ELOPING MUSCLES OF SHOULDERS AND BACK (M. F.)— To properly develop the muscles of the shoulders and back rhythmic exercises are required—massage alone will not bring about the desired results. First of ail, learn to stand correctly and do this practice before a mirror until you are s of yourself. Balance’ the body firmiy on the balls of the feet with the chest raised and the abdomen drawn in. After affew minutes of deep breathing, which should always precede and form a part of the exercise, you are ready to begin the shoulder and back movements. If you prefer to use light wooden dumbbells do so, al- though they are not essential. Stand erect with arms resting lightly at the’ sides, palms against the legs and raise the arms upward simultaneously. When the arms have been raised to a level with the shoulders, turn the pzlms upward and continue to raise the arms, bending them at the elbows, bringing the closed hands, palms down- ward, over and six inches above the head. Then force the arms backward, which will be tiresome at first because the muscles are weak, but after a few trials a feeling of elasticity will resuit which will be most pleasant. Then bring the.arms downward with elbows still bent and the upper arm straight out from the shoulder; continue to hold the arms as far backward as possible while you are counting ten rather slowly; then repeat from the beginning of the exercise. The movement may be continued for a half hour gr until tired. Do not overexercise the muscles at first. If the muscles feel sore rub thoroughly with equal parts of alcohol and tincture of camphor. After you have practiced for a week you will not need this application. Always bear in mind that If the arms are allowed to to ©come too far forwafd, which is 2 much easier movement, the upper arm will receive most of the development and the beneficial effects will be great- 1y lessened, especially on the back uscles. FIVE O'CLOCK TEA (Dorothy).~To R S 0 successfully entertain your friends in- formally on Sunday I would suggest that you provide something more sub- stantial than the conventional tea and wafers. These are all very well when ladies only are present, but a big, broad shouldered man never feels quite so close to a “sissy” as he does when at- tempting to hold a fragile bit of china and look unconcerned and happy while nubbling a tiny wafer. He may put up a splendid bluff and vow serenely that he is having the time of his life. Of course he is, the poor dear. Don't all the men know it and does not a clever woman catch the savage gleam in his eye as the tiny cup careens and is saved only by a bit of ungraceful juggling? Depend upon it, deep down in his heart he is longing for a big cup of coffee and a sandwich of gener- ous proportions and doesn’t care a rap whether it is the proper thing at a tea or not. So if you would be a vopular hostess provide something which the men can enjoy or the house will know them no moré& The refreshments should not be of a character to spoil 2 relish for dinner. Such dainty sand- wiches as chicken, cheese, minced ham, nuts and whipped cream may be varied by the admixture of finely chopped parsiey or a crisp lettuce leaf moistoned with a rich mayonnaise. Stuffed dates, salted nuts, cake or waf- ers make a tempting addition and fra- grant tea and coffee served with rich cream may complete the menu. Have plenty of everything in readiness, the sandwiches kept ccol and moist until the last moment and the drinkables piping hot. The table must be as dainty as fine china, glass, silver and spotless linen can make it and a vase or bowl of cut flowers will add to its attractiveness. TREATING CALLOUSED BSPOTS (Golfer).—The woman who is fond of out in the full con- scionsness that it will receive se- rious consideration — every question of fact or fiction. of the home and all its manifold ties and tasks, of the inner sanc- tuary of a woman's life, finds ready solution. Ladies, this page s all your very own. . What would you? Please address all commu- nications to Madge Moore, editor “What Women Want to Know,” Sunday Call, San Francisco.’ o RO R 5 R Ao W o outdoor sports must bestow a great deal of care upon her hands if shas would retain the dainty feminine soft- ness so much admired. The calloused spots on the hands are directly caused by the hand coming in contact with un- yielding substances or by hard rubbing. . The friction caused by holding a goif stick, a tennis racquet or coach whip and reins is quite as detrimental to the texture of the skin as any of the home- ly household duties. Hands which are mapifestly disposed to a calloused con- dition must be protected by heavy gloves at all times when one is engaged in exercise or work which requires much muscular exertion. A clever girl of my aequaintance who disliked a bungling glove hit upon the idea of selecting easy fitting gloves of heavy kid and neatly applylng a lining of chamois skin across the palm. By catching the edges into the seams of the thumb, fingers and stdes of the glove no ugly stitches were visible in the kid, while the protection of this s6ft lining saved the hands from unsightly spots. In addition to this precaution the girl never neglected a daily inspec- tion and thorough treatment of the palms to keep the rosy cclor unmarred. After holding the hands in rather warm watér for ten minutes, to soften the skin, any suspicious yellow spots are rubbed with pumice stone, just enough to wear down the thickened skin. Then a good emollient 1s rubbed into the spots and then over the entire palm. The result is delightfully soft’ hands. A VALUE OF THE SPONGE BATH garding the proper method of taking & sponge bath and of the effects of such baths. Strictly speaking, a sponge bath 1s performed without soap, cold or tepid ‘water being used according to the needs and vigor of the patient. As a deter- gent the effects of the sponge bath are merely superficlal, consequently, should never be confounded with the cleansing warm tub bath, as {t can never take the place of the latter. The maln rea- son why some people cannot endure & cold sponge bath is because they do not take it correctly. The usual plan is to apply the water in dabs, finally getting the body dripping wet and then quickly and only partially drying it. Result— chills and colds. A cold water sponge bath should always be taken in the morning and never at night except in very warm weather. If the shock of the cold water is too great begin with tepid water and after a week gradually use cooler water until at the beginning of the third week the water may be used as cold as it comes from the faucet. As a stimulating exercise the sponge bath has no equal, for it gives tone and energy to the,skin and perspiratory organs, promotes excretions and secre- tlons and tends to equalize the circula- tion of the blood. To obtain beneficial results the cold sponge bath must be rapldly performed in a moderately warm room and be followed by a very brisk. rubdown. This is essential, as the fatient must experience a decided feeling of warmth as sobn as the body is dried. If some, light exercise or a brisk walk can bé indulged in imme- diately after the bath so much the bet- ter. The beneficial effects of the cold water sponge bath will soon be appar- ent in increased energy and a clearer, brighter complexion. THE NEWEST TAFFETAS (Olga). ‘Water-proof taffetas, or cravenetted, as they are sometimes called, are the newest imported silks designed espe- clally for the shirt waist suit which will be as popular in town as at sum- mer resorts the coming season. From point of beauty and utility this silk s & declded trlumph of the manufac- turer’s art. It is wonderfully soft, con- forming to the prevailing modes, and so practical that the most exacting eannot find fault. Moire effects are nu- merous among the choice samples, al- though small pinhead dots, checks and fine striped patterns predominate. The tull scale of blues figured with white are presented and also many lovely greens, browns, gray and black, all more or less broken with white. The smartesf suits have a short skirt, either side or box plaited, taflor finished, or a plain gored skirt trimmed about the foot with stitched bands of taffeta. The very newest decoration consists of milliner’'s folds set on In graceful scrolls to simulate braid. The folds are made of plain silk to match the prevail- ing color of the figured silk from which the gown is made. Small butfons of silk or giit are used for fastening and ornamenting the waist and skirt. REMOVING FACIAL LINES (Elsie). The deep, drooping lines which run from the nose to the chin are the hard- est of all wrinkles to eradicate, espe- clally if they are largely hereditary, as is often the case; then, it is almost impessible to remove them entirely. Again, the formation of the face has much to do with the depth of these lines, or it may be a force of habit of expression that has set them unusually deep. Although the facial operator may have one or more of these causes to contend with, regular and intelligent treatment will surely reduce the un- lovely lines if directions are carefully observed and followed with system. At the same time you are working try to discover any habit which may be deep- ening the lines and endeavor to correct it, for this will facilitate matters greatly. A pure skin food is invaluable in the work used in combination with the massage. To protect the delicate texture of the skin from grime and ren- der the pores more effective It must first be prepared to receive the food by a face bath of hot soapy water, fol- lowed by a thorough rinsing in warm ‘water to remove every trace of soap. Then begin by anointing the deep lines generously with the cerate. Remember that you wish to build up, hence the pressure must be light and of not too long duration. The first movement consists of kneading, to tone up relaxed muscles. Pick up the flesh on each side finger, and gently press it in & slightly rolling or clawing motion. Go over the entire length of the lines two or three times, then perform an upward rotary movement, keeping the skin moistened all the time with plenty of the cerate. Lastly, place the finger tips on the temples and with the thumbs placed just forward of the lines, smooth and stroke the lines crosswise, upward and backward, toward the ears. The re- sults, after a few weeks of this treat- ment taken regularly dally, will be most gratifying. . IRREGULAR TEETH IN CHIL- DREN (Mother).—You need not feel alarmed if the second teeth of the child come in irregularly, as in the majority of cases they will become more even as growth advances. Sometimes this irregularity of growth is due to too much crowding by teeth which should be removed. A dentist would recognize such cases and set the matter straight. The cuspid or eye teeth should be close- ly watched to prevent the new teeth from coming In above the normal posi- tion. In some families this tendency seems to be hereditary, blt it can usu- ally be averted by prompt measures. Fully developed irregular teeth can be straightened, but the process is both tedious and painful, as the teeth are loosened and then held in the new posi- tion by some plastic substance until firmly established. The time for this process Is from three to six weeks, ac- cording to the location of the teeth and the number thus replaced. This work should be Intrusted only to a skilled dentist, for in the hands of one whose knowledge of the operation was doubtful the nerve might be injured so that the permanency of the teeth be jeopardized. In skilled hands the oper- ation is quite successful and the results warrant the cost and brief discomfort. THE WOMAN WHO FUSSES (L. N. B.).—The fussy woman 1s one of the most tiresome creatures on earth. She has little or no time for enjoyment and not a moment to spare in cultivating that -thin, high-pitched volce which penetrates the quiet with some fussy nervous exclamation or helpful (?) re- mark at most inopportune times. She is certain .the room is too cool or too warm or that you would better read this or that book. Because she wears flannels In June she is sure you will catch your death if you do not likewise. She keeps up this running fire of ad- vice and fuss until her friends vote her a nuisance. She is far too busy worrying over the world In general to attend to her own affairs, so her chil- dren run wild and her husband is glad te slip out of the house for a rest. Poor soul! She has her bitter moments and wonders vaguely why her efforts are not appreciated and why men and women shun her company. Somehow she has a perverted idea of life and cannof or will not see her faults. I would ‘not advise you to attempt the task of changing such a disposition in another, for you will but make an enemy. Treat your friend kindly, don't argue with her and when the trial be- comes too great escape as gracefully as you can. A YOUNG GIRL'S ROOM (Mrs. W. B. J.).—It is a happy combination of circumstances that your daughter's class colors are white and gold and that she ‘is fond of wild flowers, for it suggests the idea of a dainty room with soft draperies and masses of nodding buttercups and daises relieved with tender greens. To secure that restful tone so desirable in a sleeping apartment a plain side wallpaper in a solid color is advised. The cool misty tone of delicate terre verfe would be charming and most sugges- tive of dewy flelds. Have the frieze ond ceiling in a greenish cream run- ning to a pure white, picked out with green and gold. Cover the floor with a green velvet carpet, figured with plenty of cream or golden shades; or, use a fine Japanese matting with white ground figured in dull green and scatter it with a number of soft rugs in harmonious colors to give warmth. Hang ruffled curtains of dotted Swiss at the windows, mounted on small brass rods and draped back with white cords and tassels. Upholster the window seat with French cretonne in green, gold and white and mass with —_— “Photos by Stanford ! | Studio. 1 (Majorie),—There is much oo‘zlulon re- of the lines, between the thumb and e 0 & figured, striped and embroidered and figured silks. Hdge some of the pil- lows with ruffies of shaded green and yellow ribbons, brocaded with tiny white daises. Select furniture eof birdseye maple and do not forget a pretty screen with panels of shirred silk, for it will add much to the artis- tic completion of the room as well as for use In shutting off chilling draughts. To dress the bed, cover the French bolster with buttercup yellow silk and cover this with dotted Swiss; make the spread to match trimming generously with let-in bands of inser- tion. For the bureau, ete., select covers of round thread, white hem- stitched linen and embroider with masses of golden blossoms. The table cover may be of flgured cretonne, edged with coarse white lace or em- broidered linen. The needed china should be in the prevalling white and gold and the small tollet articles of Ivory, silver mounted. Jacquel'ne.—The best way to develop legs and ankles is to walk around on tip toes morning and night, whils dressing and undressing. Run slowly back and forth across your room on tiptoes or wally around your room In low-heeled or heel- less shoes, pressing hard on the toes at the end of each stride. Copy Hamlet's slow stride across the stage. Walking on the heels will develop the muscles of the shins. Bathe the legs In cold salt water after performing these exercises and thea give them a brisk rubbing. This helps ta inerease thelr size. - - | WHAT wWILL OTHERS SAY? N -+ —p To what extent should we conform to the opinions of others? How far should we modify our bellefs and practices because of the fear of what others may say or think? Here comes along the thorough-going independent, who boldly declares that he does not care a button for any one else, that he knows perfectly well what suits himself and that he proposes to go ahead on that line. But the timid conservative dares not take a single step until he has found out what his family, his friends, his neighbors or the community think about it, and It they hold up their hands in holy hor- ror at the proposition he will have none of it himself. Between these two ex- tremes s there any safe and desirable middle ground? If you must be one or the other, choose the position of the independent by all means. You have but one life to live and you are the person responsible for it. You know, or you ought to know, yourself better than any one else &nows you. You first of all will reap the advantage or suffer the damage arising from your forward step. The moment you pass over to some indi- vidual or to public nion generally the making of your de ons, the shap- ing of your actions, you abdicate the sovereignty which God entrusted you with when he made you a n. You become a weather vane, subject to all the fluctuations of popular dictates and whims. No slave ore abject than that one who is con ly in terror lest he should offend popular tastes. Mereover, makes any headway w 1 he is ready to brave a rary to pub- s made up opi no one ever lic opinion, pro his own mjnd after du that his course is corr The man who first carried an ur lia on the streets of London was a laughing stock to all who saw him, b kept dry while others got wet a e may have lived to see the day when the man who failed to ¢ umbrella was . He almly the laughing stoc who Is sure of hi wait until the wo Neverthele: wise in his own conce heed to what people s sideration may be a v the right path and a rent from evil. The dom of the world i set one side. In all civ 1 mmuni= ties a body of ¢ 1ing man= ners and morals has bee rm= ing through the de w crystailized into writ- ten code with which it s for a man to be familiar and which he ought not to defy flippantly It is ctly in order for a man to walk wn the street on a spring mor iress- ing gown and slij has a right so to do. ost n prefer to array themselves in clothing of a more conventional nd generally AC= cepted pattern for a public fare. American parents a ough= rule prefer that their young da should be properly attended when they go into society or off for a holiday, and the girl who in her association th young y certain wise re- strictions not only maintains her own dignity best, but is the long rum better respected and liked the men. A wholesome fear of what people will say may lead many a person inte paths of sobriety and decency who might be too weak willed to go there from the promptings of his o#n nature. For people do not always say unkind and foolish things. The average sense of a respectable community is to be respected and, other things being equal, I want the approval of my fel- low men. Courage to work out your own prob- lems to a finish and readiness to listen for and receive the wisdom of others make the proper blend. To our own selves we must first of all be true, but that does not mean necessarily that we should be indifferent or superior to our fellowmen. Emerson hits it about right when he says, “It Is easy In the world to live after the world's opin- fon. It is easy in solitude to live after one’s own. But the great man is he who in the midst of the crowd keeps with perfect $weetness the independ- ence of solitude.” All this has a direct bearing upom the matter of religion. For most of us the midway position is safe there. We must get our own thought of God, of Christ, of duty, of immortality, but why should we throw to the winds all the conclusions wrought out slowly, painfully, by those who have gone be- fore us? We need not conform our bellefs in every particular to them. On the other hand, we should not dis- dain this precious inheritance of falth and hope upon which we may build our temple and dwell securely therein. THE PARSON., men is governed