The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 15, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN FRANCISCO' SUNDAY- CALL. fl%V\ ©O many and so varied are the little perplexities that 4 enter into almost every woman's life without find- ing satisfactory solution, and so many and so unusual are the letters that are constantly being received from women who cannot find an answer to . their questions in any other [ w that The Sunday Call has established this page devoted entirely and exclusively to “What Women Want to Know,” edited by Madge Moore. Here every trial or tribula- tion of the mind and heart can be poured out in the full con- sciousness that it will receive se- rious consideration — every question of fact or fiction. of the e and all its manifold ties and tasks, of the inner sanc- tuary of a woman's life, finds ready solution. Ladies, this page is all your very own. ‘What would you? Please address all commu- riications to Madge Moore, editor “What Women Want to Know,” Sunday Call, San Francisco. HE old adage, that “Pretty is as pretty does,” has more truth than poetry when it comes to the question of the mouth and teeth. Certainly no one, 1o matter how regular the fea- tures may be lay the slightest claim to beauty if the teeth are not in k of condition. To be sure, cannot be blessed with a y set, but in this day of modern try it most certainly is within all to possess at least can the r of yper jaw has too many teeth properly and the lip pro- an ugly fashion, it may be and the person made to look fu 100 per cent better. But do not - . single instant that such is a light one and to be entered ue consideration, for if ng on the face of the ainful and nerve shat- nother it is the regulating n they are crowded one drawn, and frequently e jaw moved into an on. And this be slow and fair promise in merous heartburns the apparatus may work of months be un- moments. that are perfectly gular and yet not de- extent from the face. mind you, does not washing in the morn- Instead it means to -oughly after eating, ow frequently this may be. t to a dentist proves con- part of the regulation ve been neglected, for of the teeth but spells f one did but redlize and the ywever, ess t always convenient or ad- able for that matter to carry about toothbrush, but comparatively few people take the trouble to use it fre- utly when at home, and when they nine times out of ten, give their hasty lick and a promise and > keep an engagement. In caring for the mouth two articles should first be carefully considered— ihe brush or brushes and the dentifrice, as they are all important. There are hosts of preparations that may be had at any chemist’'s shop, but unless one knows the druggist personally it is b T to insist upon a wash that con- familiar ingredients, as all of ‘them are far from good. Be certain hat soap forms the largest part, as is not only cleansing but alkaline es well. However, because it is good, do not meke a practice of using it alone, as dentists claim it acts upon the gums and causes them to recede. should be equal parts of water nd alcohol, and any flavoring that is best liked, though by far the most r is essence of wintergreen. Properly speaking, two brushes should be purchased. One smooth and #tiff, the other cut in ridges so that the bristies are in points, for they have a way of reaching nooks and crannies that is especially gratifying and bene- ficial. If one has been accustomed to using & soft brush the stiff one may tear the gums, but it is only a matter of time and a little judicious care when it may be used quite as a matter of course. Salt, by the way, in a small quantity of water, is a simple and ef- fective means of hardening the gums and will get them into fairly good con- dition quickly. .No matter how painfui the change may be at first persevere, for the stiff bristies alone are equal to thé task of keeping troublesome tartar gway. EBrush the right side of the mouth with the left hand and vice versa and treat each individual tooth as though it was the only one of importance and thefefore the one to be considered mgst. Brush with a vigorous stroke up and down and in and out, treating the inside quite as well as the outside, for Mr. Decay is not the least bit par- ticular where he begins his deadly work and is more frequently found in out of the way places than elsewhere. Do not think that five minutes’ brushing will accomplish the desired results eitheffor most teeth fit so .closely together that nothing but a bit of silk or dentist’s floss can thoroughly _cleanse the sides. As the last finishing touch an antiseptic mouth wash should be used, for it is not only a good preservative but sweetens the breath and is decidedly refreshing as well. An offensive breath, by the way, should not be tolerated. And really there is no good or sufficient reason for it, though, to be sure, it seems al- most” unavoidable occasionally. Gen- erally it comes from a disordered stomach, diseased condition of the nose or throat and bad teeth. By dietihg the stomach may be quickly gotten into good condition again and sprays and washes will go a long way vis rush o ICIH0E 1 ANID JBOEIR JCEIEAIS0 0 ‘ ZRUTINE THZE teeth should receive prompt attention, for they are not only painful but det- rimental to the health. To be sure, having them extracted is not the most pleasant recreation, but the agony is eoon over. The greatest bugbear is anticipation and people are wont to dread such an operation for weeks and are only driven in desperation by a nerve racking, intolerable toothache. TMhere are dozens of cachous that are warranted to sweeten the breath 2nd do away with any slight disorder, but very few of them do more than promise. Of the endless variety, char- coal tablets are perhaps the best, for they sweeten the stomach. But, on the other hand, they do not leave a very pleasant taste in the mouth and it is always advisable to rinse well after using them, as they are black and do not hesitate to leave a vivid reminder in plain sight. That the teeth make or mar one's beauty is scareely so, but it certain- ly is a temptation to smile when one has a pretty mouth and pretty teeth. Occasionally a sweet looking girl makes such ugly grimaces when speaking that she twists her face en- tirely out of shape and is really a trial to her friends, but bad habits are not as serious ds facial deformities, for more pleasing expressions may be cultivated and the general effect rad- ically changed. Answers to Correspondents l — ~ NAVAJO INDIAN BLANKETS — Certainly, use as many in a den as you can afford to buy. Not only on the floor but on the walls as pictufes; over a comfortable cozy looking couch and even over the table that is always loaded down with magazines and books. - The bright, gaudy ones are pretty, but if you expect to transfer them into another room later on be careful in selecting colors, for they seem possessed to fight with carpets and every decided tone in the room. If your furniture is old treat it to a dose of coach black that you can easily buy at any good paint shop. Two or three coats will do and the finish will be absolutely lusterless. Apply furni- ture polish and you will almost make yourself think that you are fitted up with Flemish oak. A few bright plc- tures on the walls and a palm or so will turn your room into an attractive den and your main trouble in life will be endeavoring to secure a little pri- vacy. DECORATING CLOSETS (L. M. F.) —A pretty way to decorate a large closet is to cover the lower part of the wall, to the height of five feet, with French cretonne, stretched smoothly and tacked in place with small brass- headed tacks. The space above, be- tween the shelves and shelving, may be painted a soft sage green or creamn white if more light is essential; or one toward purifying the nose. Decayed may substitute a high-grade paper in 71HLAL WWOOMIE TR YWATWID D cretonne pattern. A tangle of pink roses on a greenish cream ground Is cheerful, or, if the closet is rather dark, golden blossoms will infuse a sunny effect. To prevent the lodgment of moths and dust in the floor it must be made of hard wood and be smooth, which will permit of its being kept per- fectly clean by simply wiping it with a damp cloth. Close all crevices around the baseboard with a narrow molding painted to match the woodwork; fill all cracks in the floor with putty and when dry paint the floor a light tan color and when this is dry varnish it with prepared oakestain. To prevent the garments in the closet from coming in contact with the wall the hangers for the clothes may be hung on hooks screwed into the underside of the shelves about three inches from the wall. A strong rod fastened in socket~ in the side walls will -hold additional hangers if needed. Of course you will want plenty of pretty padded clothes hangers to match the decorative color scheme, and a strong bag of cretonue or denim for umbrellas and another for shoes. SUITABLE COSTUMES FOR TRAVELING (Jessie).—When a long railroad journey is in contemplation a sensible costume should be prepared. Frippery of all kinds should be eschew- ed, for it stamps the wearer as pro- vincial or sadly lacking in good taste. Elaborate silk waists, hats, gowns, conspicuous jewelry and white gloves and petticoats should be left at home or placed in one's traveling trunk. The wise woman insists upon utility, style and comfort when planning her traveling outfit. No matter how ex- pensive her hat or suit may be, it is severely plain, dependent wholly upon perfect cut and finish for its chic ap- pearance. A dark mixed suiting is ideal for a traveling costume, showing neither soil nor dust, a feature never to be overlooked. Our wise traveler argues that dust and poverty are much alike; if either must be endured it is less annoying if the visible signs are not perceptible when abroad. Needful toilet articles—a dark flannel night robe, a bottle of ammoniated salts and another of soda mint tablets to ward off headaches and a good book—are the principal things to be carried in the traveling case, with overshoes and an umbrella romewhere in the outfit for a rainy day. Black petticoats should be worn, and comfortable walking shoes, and dark, serviceable kid gloves. are also a-part of the costumé&™ The shirt waist is of soft dark silk finished with * stitching and buttons only and. -made charming by the smart stock of cross- stitched linen. Have plenty of hand- kerchiefs, a fresh stock and an extra palr of gloves. By the aid of these ex- tras the traveler can present herself at the end of a long journey looking spick and span and smiling. TO ENLARGE THE BUST (H. M. H.)—First of all learn to stand correct- ly, for this {s more than half the battle; this carried out, deep breath- ing, diet and exercise, practiced with intelligence, will do the rest. T per- mit the chest to sink in from a careless habit of standing or sitting produces ugly lines and greatly reduces the ac- tual breadth of both the chest and shoulders. Furthermore, the impeded movements of the lungs lessen their’ forces and weaken all surrougding muscles, obvious reasons why improve- ments should begin here. When walk- ing or standing, balance the body on. the balls of the feet, coming down lightly on the heels, swing the torso forward with the chest thrown out and abdomen in. Go through the exercises before a mirror and note the play of the muscles. If the left arm_and bust seem less developed than the other side, the weaker side should be exercised the most to bring it up to the correct pro- portions. Wear a loose gown very low in the neck and sleeveless when exer- cising, and perform these exercises in a well ventilated room, for the deep breathing of stale air will do more harm than good. Raise the hands etraight and high above the head with * finger tips together; inhale a deep breath, raising slowly upon the toes, exhale the breath as you count ten and lower the arms slowly to the sides and come slowly down on the heels. Re- peat ten or more times. Another help- o LAWGHING GIRIL ¢ W ful exercise to-develop the muscles of arms and chest is to raise the hands to the shoulders and thrust them straight out and on a horizontal line with the shoulders. A pair of light wooden dumbbells are also helpful in this exercise, though not absolutely essential. If used, grasp them firm! in the hands and perform all move- ments rhythmieally to ensure symmet- rical development. UTILIZING OLD GOWNS (Mrs. B. M. L.).—The best parts of old silk gowns may be utilized in making ruf- fles for smart petticoats. One can scarcely have too many petticoats, es- pecially those of black. Rip the dresses apart, examine closely, reject all worn parts, then cut into blas strips three or four inches wide. To insure a'per- fectly even width always use a tape and a bit of chalk to mark the meas- urements, or use a stiff. paper pattern - securely pinned in place. Join the pieces, hem the edge and gather the top edge, not too full, to be covered by a bias piece of the goods, or turn under the top half an inch to form a self-heading before gathering. Cut the petticoat in five or seven gores, with inverted plaits or gathers at’the back, and lengthened by a circular flounce, using any of the’ well-known: mercer- ized materlals or sateen. the seams correctly, trim off the edge of the flounce to the desired length and finish with a plece of velvet binding applied flat and stitched several times. Then set the made ruffles of silk on the circular flounce, with edges sligh overlapping. A belt which fits the waist neatly, closed with hooks and eyes or - with a flat butten, is to be te drawstrings, which are apt to cre- ~ate bunchy lines in the back just below the waist line and ruin the set of your pointed girdles. U the delicate “the eggs eaten Join-and fit. . tly | colored silks for party frock linings or petticoats, trimming prettily with plait- ed. ruchings or. edgings.of net top cream-colored Tlace. Dainty patterns can be-bought as low as 25 cents a yard. Petticoats for misses ‘and girls can, of course, be made in the same manner. <FOR:PALE FACES (Marion.)—Con- tinual pallor usually indicates an andemic .condition- of - the blood, and prompt measures should be adopted at Once to.build up the system, else seri- ous complications may result. As you are not very strong ail forms of exer- _cise should be begun by degrees; radi- cal measures of any kind are not de- sirable In your. present condition. First of-all, in seeking to build up your body eat wisely. Deny yourself rich, greasy foods and hot sweet concoctions, for they only tend to overwork the diges- tive organs. Take fats in such agree- able forms as salad oil, fresh butter and cream, and eat a very moderate amount of pure sweets. Eat plenty of broiled beefsteaks and chops, and have either soft-boiled or poached; eat also well-cooked vegeta- bles, fresh salads like lettuce,-spinach, fruit and nuts, each of them dressed with oil in abundance, but with only little- vinegar. Eat whole wheat and graham breads, apples, bananas, grapes and sweet oranges for fruit, and eat u good-supply of milk and cream. These things “will supply a nourishing menu and do much toward buildirg you up. After the regular warm baths rub the entire body vigorously with alcohol and . water, equal parts, to guard agalnst colds and to act as a tonic. A rubdown nightly with a rough, dry bath mitten, done just before going to bed, will banish the chilliness from which vou suffer, and the slight exer- tion of the operation will give you beneficial exercise. Walking and play- ing games in the open air will do more than any amount of tonics to tone up your system. Too many of us losé sight of the fact that exercise in the open air is essential to health. Riding can never take the place of walking. Do not resort to rouge, for it will only exaggerate the pallor. Get a healthy tan on your face from exposure to the sun and wind during your daily walk. CARE OF ORNAMENTS (M. L. T.)—Any article worn solely as an tarnished, should not be worn, and to ‘wear them is inexcusable, especially when it is considered how little effort is necessary to make them presentable. Ordinary articles may be cleaned at home, but it is always wise to send such trinkets as are enameled in part or set with pearls to a jeweler to be cleaned. The idea that soap and water are injurious to jewelry is wrong. Col- lections of oil from the skin as well as dust accumulate on rings, especi- ally on the under side of the stttings, can best be removed by the simple process of applying tepid water made quite soapy and using a very soft brush. Dry at once after rinsing in cold water, using a soft old linen handkerchief for drying, and then polish with a plece of chamois skin. Sitver articles or steel buckles may be brightened by a brisk rubbing with silver polish-and a chamois skin. If the steel is much tarnished wet with kerosene for several hours, dry, and then clean with the polish. M. A. B.—1830 GOWN—The prettiest kind of a summer frock would be a dainty checked silk, strapped with a solid contrasting color. For instance, tan and brown are pretty and wear nicely, which should be a big consider- ation. Make the sRirt with four or five shirrs about the hips so that the skirt will be very full and follow out the same idea in the waist. The shoul- der seam should be very long in order to give the broad effect so much in’ vogue and the sleeves miniature bal- loons. Wear a high-fitted girdle of the same and you will be smartly frocked. ENGAGED GIRL (Marking Linen)— The girl who expects to be married certainly has plenty to keep her busy for five or six months if she expects to make all her underwear by hand and to embrcider all her linen. Really is it worth the while? Months of hard work combined with entertainments that are cgonstantly being given wear a girl out and she is so tired she really does not know what the matter is with her. ‘Watch the sales and buy pretty lin- gerie. Instead of initialing them by band, buy the pretty linen ones that come by the dozen and are so casily sewed on. They are inexpensive—thir- ty-five cents a dozen—and make a very good showing. Hemstitched bed linen is nice, but it certainly is trying on the eyes, too, so if you think you cannot be happy -without them, at least sew the initial on. Perhaps you do not . realize that sheets and pillow slips are frequently made with strips of em- broidery in place of the Remstitching, and it might not be a bad idea to make a few by way of variety. X. Y. Z—SHIRT WAISTS—The fact that you have but little money to spend on clothes does not necessarily mean that you must look the part. You say you can sew neatly and that is more than half the battle. Do a little win- dow shopping and while you are busily engaged in this pursuit do not neglect the laundry windows, for the people who can offord a French laundry can afford well made, smart clothes. When you see a style that particularly catches yuur eye deliberately stop and examine it thoroughly and see how it is made. Then hie yourself to a department store and search for a remnant or a pretty, cheap material. 1 have seen waists that were dainty and very becoming that cost exactly 24 cents—8 cents a yard and three yard. Furthermore materjals that are white or black and white always wash well and look far better than they really are. JANE.—FANCY DRESS PARTIES— Dressing in costume is always a pretty idea, buf not the most popular form of entertainment as it takes both time and money, and many people prefer sending their regrets when they would gladly attend if their regulation even- ing clothes wauld answer the purpose. Why not try a fad party? Let all , designate their particular hobbies in some way, though not too plainly, and award prizes to the one who guesses the highest number correctly and to the booby. .Children's parties are joliy and are not expensive, as the costumes consist of pinafores and sailor suits, and with the donning of childhood HTANAGI G : ornament should be in perfect con- - dition or laid aside until it can be made so. Jewelry, buttons, buckles, ‘etc., which are broken or even slightly TEZZE 7T FexE Los= ciotnes _dignity slips from stald men and men and leaves fun and mis- chief in its place. THE LATEST IN LINEN SUITS (F. L.)—The very latest examples of tub gowns and suits turned out by leading houses for early spring wear at South- ern resorts are of white or celored linens as well as of cottons. As in everything else this season, elaboration is the salient feature of these gowns and one is puzzled to know how they are to be laundered; as a matter of fact, they are cleansed by the dry pro- cess, 80 that the term “tub” is plainly a misnomer. White linen has lost none of its prestige since last season, when it was pre-eminently the thing. The most popular trimmi are Irish laces, hand embroidery in white or black French knots in mercerized cotton, self . strappings, drawn work and cross- \stitch. A very chic suit has a jaunty ‘bolero, flowing sleeves, collar of heavy white lace, gilt buttons, a dainty white lawn underblouse trimmed with Valen- clennes lace and. a five-gored skirt sl tly full about - the ' hips in 1830 st A hat of glowing scarlet ger- anium blossoms with bows of veivet of a deeper shade and crush belt of :fl.fla kid makes up a very t. 11 s Tragedy of the Rainy Day * i 8 you look back over the van- ished week, how many things have happened in it which you did not foresee last Sunday morning. It may be that the entire course of your life has been altered by some sudden event. Possibly you have been plunged into gloom or may be some great vista of happiness has opened before you. Life is an alto- gether different affair from what it was a week ago. It is the unexpected that is always happening and the sensible man gov- erns his life accordingly. Take the simple matter. of catching a train. You know that if all goes well you can do it in half an hour from your front door. But the forehanded man leaves himself a little margin of time. A friend may detain him en route or there may be some break In the high- way or some blockade of the cars. Or look at the subject from the point of view of family or personal expendi- tures. You know that your income will suffice for the necessaries and now and then a luxury. But how about the rainy day which may set in three months hence, or how about sending the children away to school before long? Perhaps you will be in duty bound to assume the care of some dependent relative. At all eévents, won't you be better prepared for emergencies if you plan to have a' little leeway between income and outgo, remembering Mr. Micawber's famous adage, “Income £20, expendi- tures £19 10s; result happiness. In- come £20, expenditures £20 10s; re- sult misery.” It is well to make allowance, too, for contingencies in the nature of tests of character. You may think you have your temper and your tongue pretty well under control for the or- dinary strains, but who knoWs wheth- er before this coming week is half over some especially Irritating cir- cumstance will arouse a slumbering demon within you and before you know it you will have sald or done something which you will regret the rest of your life? After all, the real test of a man’s virtue is the way he will behave when he is taken un- awares. Are you laying up some re- serves against that day, so that the unexpected trial or temptation shall not destroy or impair your manheod? Sooner or later, most of us have to be temporarily set one side, letting the big world go on with its work without us for a while. Periods of invalidism are great crosses for persons of an ac- @ve disposition, and yet some men have risen up from sick beds grateful for the providence which sent them there and for the lessons learned. What are you going to think about if you happen to break your leg and have to lie on a couch for weeks, or if some sharp sickness invoives a long season of convalescence? Are you going to chafe or are you going to be a gentle- man and a Christlan and make it com- paratively easy for those who minister to you to stay near you? Old age is a contingency for which we ought to prepare, nay, look forward eagerly to as the period when our judg- ment may be ripest, our sympathies with our fellow men keenest, our Influ- ence in the world most potent and ben- eficial! One needs something besides a good-sized bank account when he passes the seventieth milestone. Life thereafter is going to be pretty tame if one cares for nothing besides the al- mighty dollar. And how about the thing to which at last old age itself yields? Is not the future life a contingency for which it is high time to begin preparation? “Ah,” you say, “it is all hazy with doubt.” Well, then, treat it as a con- tingency, but let the mere possibility of it purify and ennoble your daily living. Suppose that some day you wake up and find yourself In a strange, new environment, in the midst of opportunities for ampler, richer life than you have ever enjoyed here upon the earth. Suppose that you find yourself in the presence of a great searcher of human hearts, to whom you will have to render strict account of what you have done with your time and your talents. Would you endure the tender yet searching scrutiny of such a judge? Would you take your place with the upright and vallant of all the ages? Would you &° on into the vast reaches of the fu- ture ever learning more about your- self, the universe and God? The only way to be ready for such a contine gency is to heed the solemn admoni- tion of the master of men, who, when on earth, bade each of his followers to lay up for himself treasures In heaven. THE PARSON. 60,000,000,000 Visiting Cards According to the statement of & statistician, visiting cards to the num- ber of 60,000 000,000 are annually put into circulation by the people of the world. He says that the pro rata con- sumption Iis greatest among crowned heads and royalty generally. Visiting cards became a social necessity under the Second Empire. Lithography was first employed in making the visiting cards of Napoleon, who ordered cards ‘vearing his Christian name only. When it became known that thq most talked of man in Europe was using litho- graphed cards, instead of waiting for the slower process of engraving, this style of cards, now relegated to the ordinary class, became quite the vogue. Strange, that the use of the Christian name only is a prerogative which kings and emperors share with servants. > Napoleon’s visiting card was two and a third inches long and half as broad. The ex-printer to the Tuileries still has a sample, which he intends presenting to the National Museum. The fact of its retaining, up to the present day, its white and glossy coat 1s due to the reckless use of tincture of arsenic, which is thought to have caused much of the sickness of that period. The bionde beauty, Eugenis, first brought into favor engraved cards, though many people of quality used cards printed from copper plate long before this famous favorite of the Em- peror became fashion’s dictator. The Chinese claim to have used vis-" iting cards as far back as the time of Confucius. The Koreans use visiting cards a foot square.