The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 15, 1904, Page 10

10 THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. et i, A fashionable modiste declares in favor of cav- alry blue voile, with taf- chiffon, broadcloth wmd serge following clogely after, in colors old and new—How the new zowns try the fig- ure of the stout woman. skirts, waists, sleeves and girdles that are buiit for slender waists and tall, swaying fig- ures—Latest mnovelties in dress all along the line of new gloves, hats, veils and the small things of dress. ta By Augusta Prescott. HE lady with a poor figure must betake herself to her boudoir for a 0t of weeps. The new gowns are not bullt for her, and there is mo beauty in her when she has been hooked into them. Here are a few of the characteristics of the very Ilatest modes, and the woman who is twenty pounds heavier than she should be for her height can ponder them long and tearfully: Skirts are very round and very full, and the majority of them clear the street. Hips are tucked, shirred, plaited and much trimmed. ‘Waists continue to blouse, and the newest ones have a blouse in the back as well as in the front. Actually there are taffeta waists that fall over the belt in the back at least three inches, while they bag very decidedly in the front also. This can be very smart or degidedly the reverse. Girdles are wide and some of them are high, and where is the fat woman whose belt is already under her chin? Stocks are the redeeming feature, for they are not worn very tall and they can be fitted to any throat. Sleeves are immense and most them are made in open balloons. Oth- ers are balloon shaped, closed at the hand and fitted with a stiff lace cuff, which may be slashed or may be clos- ed. Inside the stiff lace cuff there is & soft lingerie cuff. The latest fashion note says that there shall be a very long lace shoulder piece which shall hang over the arm. This is w becoming to the thin woman, but it gives the stout woman & queer look, as though she were all shoulder, and a very fat shoulder at that. The full balloon sleeves are smart, but they do not increase the size of the waist, for the fullness comes just on 2 line with the waist when the arms hang down. This fullness is becoming to those who are rather slender across the hips, but the fat woman must be e trifie cautious when ordering her new sleeves. Still, with all of these points against her, the fat woman has certain things to her advantage, for the long and drooping shoulder gives her a chance to be elegant and If she be tall she can be quite imposing in appearance. The lace shoulderettes are wide and deep and they are splendidly adapted to shoulders that are broad enough to carry them. The Most Popular Gown. Asked what would be the most pop- ulur gown of the year for general of wear, a modiste said ‘For general wear giva me a voile made over good, ' taffeta. L& the s r Let the skir Let walist persu: blouse front and L brought do Let the: to the And in- et a lingerie cuff. rs are trim- s of lace put together to form a shoulder cape. There are bands of velvet between the bands of lace. The whole makes a very nice shoulder effect, with long fronts that hang right down to the belt line “It would be difficult to plan a gown without button or metal ornaments of this kind or that. And the cavalry blue volle must have gun metal but- tons, flat and surrounded by small turquoise. Or it can have flat cut steel buttons. Or it can have flat jet ones. These are not for use, but for orna- ment, and they can be placed upon the lace shoulderette in such a manner as to finish it. These round flat buttons, or round flat ornaments, are a part of most of the gowns of the season. “Perhaps among 2ll the material of the season, voile can be mentioned first in the list of popular fabrics. It is durable, thin, cool and easily’ draped. It is, when suitably lined, warm enough for cool weather, and it is still of such a nature that it can be worn on the hottest days. No other material except the old-fashioned nun's veiling ever approached it in general favor. “Still there is taffeta. And there is something about taffeta that is very smart. It is comfortable to wear and pleasing to the eye. A good taffeta suit is & nice Investment for any woman. It is one of’those materials, always elegant, without being too good for everyday wear. ““Thin, lightweight serge comes pret- ty close to being a general favorite, But its roughness keeps it from ap- proaching the list of elegant materials. It is far second to broadecloth, which now comes in a chiffon weight, and it is not as fine as ladies’ cloth, which is to be found this season very wide, very handsome, very glossy or dull, as you please, and ready to be made up in any of the new colors—sand color, ripe apricot, champagne, butternut, stone, chamois, castor, gun metal, seal and other favorites, old and new. These gowns are the popular favor- ites.” A Sand Colored Gown. A gown which caught the eye was made of sand colored voile. The ma- terial was very wide and the skirt was as full as fashion will allow, which is very full indeed. It was one of those skirts cut with breadths the same width all the way down the skirt. The fullness at the top was caught down by stitched tucks. It wad no gown for a stout person, but it was lovely for the thin sisterhood. The walst was trimmed with bands of insertion’un- derlald with silk of a shade deeper than sand color. For summer gowns the plaitings of the season are hardly practicable, but they can‘be made 5o by stitching the plaits so that they are held fast in the laundry. One of the loveliest of tubable dresses is made of washable batiste, with the waist and skirt laid in side plaits. The plaits are stitched in the waist to make them hold their own, like tucks, and they are also stitched fast in the upper part of the skirt. Of course they must flare at the lower part of the skirt. The wide skirts, with their many seams, have captured the town, but the seams themselves were objection- able, since there were so many of them. They bothered the dressmaker, and they were never beautiful. No matter what device was employed, the seams would show. One day it occurred to the manufac- turer that it would be better to make the goods wider, so, after a reason- able period, during which the looms worked busily, there begam to come summer goods in very wide designs. It is possijle to.buy thin stuffs forty inches wide, and one can get silks from forty inches in width, These are much easier to make when one is getting up a wide and many gored skirt, and the effect of the completed gown is better, There is yet no great tendency toward the spreading skirt, and, though skirts are full and are made about the same fullness all the way around, they do not stand out and there is nothing of the crinolined ef- fect about them. So all this agitation about the revival of the crinoline is pure talk. There is no sign of it yet. A Pretty Ribbon Fad. There is a pretty fad which will cap- tivate all womankind. It originated in the lingeri¢ department, but has been adapted to the thinnest and nicest of summer gowns. It is related to the ribbon fancies, and it consists of a fancy heading or beading and a nar- row strip of satin ribbon. The ribbon, instead of being run through simple slits, 18 run underneath the prettiest and most delicate flowers, and is tied at the back of the yoke, or at the front, as the case may be. An instance of the handsome use of a fancy beading can be mentioned in the case of an exquisite lawn dress, which ‘was fitted with a lace neck yoke and a lace hip yoke. Through the openings there were run rows and rows of nar- row satin ribbon. But the beading, in- stead of consisting merely of slits, was composed of small roses of exquisite coloring. And another gown made in the same way had a fleur-de-lls, underneath which the ribbon was run. In this manner the most charming of effects can be obtained. A beading of this kind can easily be made. The ordinary insertion can be obtained, ready for use. And on this there can be applied small lace figures, showing tiny hut beautifully colored flowers, underneath which the ribbon runs. One can easily see how fine and beautiful a trimming can be made in this manner. A gown.of glossy taffeta had a rib- bon trimmed yoke. The ribbon was threaded in and out of small flowers. instead of in and out of plain slits. This removes all suggestion of lingerie, and makes a trimming that is charmingly novel. . Ribbon, by the way, is used in many and varied ways. It is run in and out of openings in silk bodices. It is used to knot a handsome walst here and there, with the knots coming up through openings in the silk. It is used with great effect as a decoration for skirts and waists in connection with lace; and the two combined make very charming ornaments with a button set in the middle. An ornament of this kind finishes a parel, sets off a girdle, finishes a stock and makes & nice trim- ming for a yoke. Your Best Bib and Tucker. When you go away this summer do not neglect to take with you your best bib and tucker, specially the latter, for the tucker is one of the most fashion- able appointments of tne seasén’s wardrobe. It is made of very sheer lawn, of India linen, of net and of lace. And there are wonderful tuckers of silk trimmed with lace and embroidered quaintly. The particular use of the tucker is for wear with the decollete gown, but the fancy for cutting the bodices round has brought them into day use. They are worn in the necks of dresses that are made without the stock and they are also used with little double breast- ed silk Etons which button up so high that nothing but the throat is visible. Six handsome net, lace and lingerie tuckers formed part of the summer wardrobe of a very dressy woman. And that they will see good service cannot be "guestioned. They are made deep enough for wear with a low cut neg- ligee and they are fine enough to be seen of an evening when the occasion requires a high neck instead of a low neck. The making of tnts little article of dress will afford employment for industrious fingers on off days when there is no more serious dressmaking on hand. A New York woman wears a tucker of fine net with strips of lace insertion through which are run numerous nar- row satin ribbons, each of which Is tied in a little bow in the middle of the front. A mother-of-pearl button, sur- rounded by a rosette of lace, finishes the bow, which looks like a little work of art, as, indeed, it is. Stocks are made of lace and run with ribbons for wear with thin summer gowns, and very pretty they look. They are about two inches wide, and they are run with ribbons of narrowest width. Of course, there is a little hard work In between the rows of ribbon in the shape of a cross stitching or a tagoting. Another lace stock is made of the new satin, which Is very supple, but the lace is so overlaid and inset that it looks as though the whole stock were lace. Small knots of satin ribbon are set around the neck, and in each knot there is a small button of turquoise and pearl. i Dame Fasion's Gloves. Dame Fashion Is waiting to see how her gloves will be received. She has boldly come out with the one button length and is walting to behold the effect of her departure upon the fash- fonable women of the land. Short ‘wristed gloves with one button clasp- ing the wrist come in all the street shades and are considered terribly English and very smart. Dame Fashlon's other extreme Iis the very long-armed gloves. These come up to the elbows and are worn wrinkled. They are designed to fill in the gap between the wrist. They con the day and for evening, and will add net a lit the )¢ the ward robe if t worn. “I m > boxes this year,” voman. “One is the x which holds my one-clasp gloves, r shopping and for t as well as for traveling. They are my practical gloves. “The other glove box contains gloves that come to the elbow and wrinkle all the way up. They are for wear with my calling dressés, with my theater bodices and with nice gowns generally There Is no medium this year. are either very long or very short “How am ‘I trimming my gloves?” asked she with a sm “Why, I following the latest ideas for trimmin the wrists. Upon one pair of gloves I have set a silver monogram. It is done in very slender silver thread, and it is clasped upon the back of the wrist. “Another pair of gloves has my mon- ogram embroidered in the back in fancy colors, and there are t seed pearls set in the létters. And s another is dotted, as to the wrists, with small vel- vet tufts, which make a very handsome wrist trimming. These gloves I call my Eugenie gloves. They are allymade to order, just as Eugenie had her gloves made, and are hand embrofdered by the glo makers. These gloves are for very nice wear, and they make & pretty bit of variety in the costume.* The monogram fad might be men- tioned in passing, for it has taken great hold on everything, and fis seen on stockings, gloves, s and ribbons, not to mention jewelry 4nd mono- grammed laces. Hats That Match the Gown. The dyeing of straw hats to match the gown is one of the pretty conceits. Such pretty effects in dress can be abtained if only the hat straw matches the dress. An opportunity for variety im celors is found elsewhere on the costume. It is now customary before purchasing a gown to take a bit of silk or the wool and match it in straw. Om If one prefers to work the other way, one can buy a hat and match it in dress' geods. Voile, which is one of the bright par- ticular favorites In dress, cam be ob- tained in all colors, and the hat can match the gown without the additional expense or ordering it dyed, for they do dye the straws now to mateh any color in dress. A hat of golden brown straw, to match a golden brown gown, can be exquisitely trimmed with no very great exhibition of artistic taste. “You can make any hat match any gown,” said a milliner, “if you will do two things. The first is to buy a straw the color of your dress material. The second is to purchase a lace curtain for the hat. These two articles will make the entire hat. “Let the straw match the dress ma- terial exactly. Let it be of a becoming shape with brim rolling on the sides. The Curzon shape, with one side rolling higher than the other, is very pretty Now take the hat curtain and shirr Set it around the crown with the lace falling off the sides and the back of the hat. That will trim it sufficiently “If you have one of the flat brims you can take the curtain and shirr it and set it around the brim, instead of around the crown. This will fall around the hat prettily. The front can then be lifted and fastened with a fancy pin. This is the way to use a lace hat curtain when there is no other trimming or when an old hat is being transformed into a new one. “And anothep pointer, save your old buttons. They are being used upon hat curtains derfurly well. The point upon whi to place them is at each side of the hat in such a manner as to lift the curtain off the face. The showiest of buttons can be used. The milliner might have added that there is a deal of showiness all through the scheme in dress—for such is the | case!