The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 1, 1904, Page 11

O-many and so varied are. the - little * perplexities that er nter .into - almost every woman’s: life without finding satisfactory solution, and so many and so unasual are-the letters that are ‘con- stantly being recéived fremii woméen who cainot -find am swer to their questions in iy other way, that The Sun- has establisired th oted entirely dnd ex to “What Women Know,” edited by Moore. every trial or tribula- of the.mind and heart out in. the full iousness that it will re- consideration v qquestion of fact or fiction, .of the home .and all qitifold 1it-~ and tasks, anctuary of a mul\ ready so- his page isall Vhat would ¢ PO rious ;.;l‘ll"\. 1 FYerY OWI. all .commu- Madge. Moore, hat Weomen Want Sunday Call, San ase address liedtions to editor- ~“W There , that ut il lhal mlkes bows cad it has a sort of is droop. and it silken head for very here to stay” hang its fuss and féather isnt at all hipg is essentiai- = and.scisgors to- the bow i quite collar band and e in the center Then pin it ide.to the back of & table so that you may have of beth your hands, Bring sbon,_ back to the ‘front center, elf leaves it doubled for 1 opened at the, back. On o £ fise wir th make a small loop of the or iwo if you want a double t be sure to cross the bows sur- shion r instance, the loop ad one piece of ribbon % rossed to the opposite side. this is done without a single stitch r clip ¢ But the stage scissors. has been re d when the ribbon must be fastentd and it should be wired firm. ly by twistigg the slender silver thread sout the center of the knpt once or ice, and thie -wire cut off as closely as possible, for the short ‘ends always seem ‘bent on investigating the world and they never fail to db their best to worry or “ork' fheir way through the knot If e bow does not. qw e suit your fancy, now is the time tc pull and +wist it, but do. not make the mistake of overdoing it er the fluff-fluff will dis- epppar and it is most dificudt to coax it back. il . Of course, the wire must be covered, #0 if vou are making a four-in-hand be sure to take the piece of ribbon that is shortest and that will e\em.:nll) be on top and slip it up the back,’ and tie it .exactly as you would a four-in-hand. Then, if you are a model of neatgess, you will take two or three stitches, so * that the collar and bow will be held firmly together; ‘but if you are in 2 hubry, a pin, cunningly tucked hetween the folds, will serve the purpose quite ‘as well and will remain in its place a surprising length of timé. ..nd then it is te ready to put on for the world and all as you would put any ordinary on. It pins securely up the back never look sweet sady-to-wear for when one is and" nine out of ten every inger turns into a mb, and the refractory collar results in a dozen pin pricks and a decidedly ruffled tem- per. Not so with this bow. It reposes seremely in the drawer and may be d or doffed a minute’s notice. Lor under the misappre- hat but one bow may be tied The simple, old styled bow- iioned j t about the ifference being in the » that the ends will be same ceit in' the line fall of velvet ribbons t the throai, but it is rn with 2 collar, as it is not complete within itself. * Buy-a roll of narrow white velvet— ing con: is fastened lace say baby. width—and loop it together i‘areless]y until there ig quite a bunch of: it. -Tie it in the center with a.bit of the velvet and then cut ‘the loops here .and there just where the scissors vhance to fall. ; -but smart looking. But don‘t worry as the finishing touches are the ones thdt make it fit. Select the color that ‘best matches the frock you wearing it with and dot a baby bow here and thére in the streamers of the white. Don’t try to place them evenly, but take care to see that they are sprinkled about sufficiently to look well. The crisp bits of color take away the dull flat appearance—and the dainty fluff is a charming accessory to any gown. -After all, if you did but know it, it really isn’t so much the gown that makes the well dressed woman as it is the smart touches that go with it. A handsome gown may be utterly ruined by ill fitting boots, but on the other hand, a plafn inexpensive frock may be entirely redeemed by a swagger hat, dainty neckwear, good boots and gloves. So, Miladi, take warning. Look to the gccessories. Arniswers to Correspondents R LS SRR NG A L R COUNTRY (Chéap Jewelry)—Don’t think for a moment of spending ohe single penny for imitation stomes or cheap jewelry. . It is the height of folly. You say you want a pin of some That will leave you - with a flat white tie that is anything- - WHAT WOMEN THEY SAN - FRANCISCO SUNDAY' CALL. . .. e - 1 - WANTZKNOYW kind. Buy a silver one, or, better still, a simple gold one. .A horseshoe or any plain design may- be purchased for two and a half or threé doilars, and while it is simple it looks well, as it don’t pretend to be other than what it:is, and it will look as well five years from now ‘as it ‘does to-day.. Earrings - are wori, -to’ be sure, but they are the last thing on ‘anh I would advieé you to buy. “If ‘you feel if an absolute neces- sity to have a ring with- a stone i it buy a torquoise, as it does not have “imitation” Writtén all over it, as the majority of other stomes do. Get- it rather small and set in gold and prob- ably no-one will be the wiser. . Belt buckles are not a necesgity these days and. you, would-be wiser if you got ené or two 25-cent lealher belts.. They are much worn just at present and always look neat and. jaunty. "It I can help you any more before you take your trlp do not hesitate to arfk me. LILY W. (To Bind a Hat) —If you intend @uant something ‘dainty and light buy a fairly good black lace and full it about the edge of your hat. If you get but enough Tor one ruffle do not put it on too heavily, as its bwn weight will cause it to sag and it will not be pretty, but if you intend putting in two, make the under one full, but the second ‘one rather scant.” However, if you want a hat for service I should advise you by all means to purchase a straw.. comes by the yard and will answer your purpose nicely. It looks like a smart ruffle and behaves beautifully . in the fog and rain. No, I most cer- tainly wouid not buy or make two hats. Instead, make one good black one that will match everything picely. A black can be worn at all times and allplaces, and you need have no hesi- tancy about wearing it in the evening. Far better one good hat than a dozen chezp ones, for one can tell them as far as they can be seen. BROWN EYES (Discolored Skim).— Brown spots on the face that are caus- ed from the use of a depilatory may. bé removed by applying the juice of a lemon to the spots. ‘Cut a lemon in two and rub it over the.face, allowing - it to dry and remain there some time. It. inis acid will do . no -harm anil at the same time .is about as good a remedy as-can be found. You neglected to state what depilatory you had used, so I am at soméwhat of a loss to ‘know the real ceuse of the Blotches. However, if the lemon juice does n« act promptly try peroxide of hydrog.a. “ One teaspoonful of am- monia to four of peroxide, X GETTING .THE MOST FROM SLEEP (H. L. M.y.—Cultivate the habit of sleeping in_an attitéde which heakhy. It may seem absurd to sug- gest cultivating % habit while "asleep, yet it can be done and the health gredtly hmproved ‘theréby. One is of- ten really startled by the extraordinary attitudes assumed by small children in their sleep and yet the grown mem- bers of the family are doing the same foolish thing only in a’modified de- gree. The extremé weariness felt by many persons upon getting out.of bed in’ the morning is often largely due is to the -unnatural position in which, the body reposed- during the. night; the muscles have become strained and, worse than all else, the'lungs have la- bored all night long without sufficient fresh air, ‘the result being that the blood is poisoned by the gases and the whole system is debilitated. Beds which are too soft, springs which sag and top many soft pillows all help to throw the body in an unnatural po- sition. Heavy quilts and overheated rooms cause restlessnesss and conse- quent twisting of the body- in uncom- fortable positions. A room kept af 75 ‘or 80 degrees at night is much too warm for health even if one is ac- customed to this temperature, and you will p~ *.' enjoy refreshing sleep until the som is kept much cooler gnd an abundance of fresh.air admitted dur- ing the night. AMUSING RESTLESS CHILDREN (Tirec Mother).—With hef multiplic- ity of duties a mother should not at- tempt to plan and ‘assist in playing the games with her children. Keeping up a’ serfes: of entertainments for the children may instruct them, but it will also beget idle dependency ahd selfish- ness. Provide the Ilittle ones with games and materials with which to amuse themselves and in these ma- terials try and stimulate their inven- tive powers and bring out any talent e they may possess. In this progressive - age children receive too much ready made knowledge; encouwrage them to be gelf-reliant and by sympathy and guidance show them how to do this and that, but do not do it for them: Teach them above all else that toys and garments must be put away in an orderly manner. Taking the posi- tion that this work is easier ‘to do yourself or by the maid than. educat- ing the children along this line has spoiled many characters and made many thoughtless and selfish. men and women who should have been helpful and a comfort in the home. To respect the rights of others shonld ‘be incul- cated in every child’s mind as soon as it can understand. By systematic methods and tact you can plan to per- forn home ard social duti and yet leave a little time for rest.. By all means manage to spend a certain hout - each day in reading and story telling. listening to the plans and hopes of the little- 6nes. The memory of this joyous twilight hour 3will never fade from the. children’s minds. MIDSBASON WARDROBE RE- PAIRS (Edith). — Why women believe that midseason so many and shabbiness go hahd in.hand I can- not imagine. True, a suit or hat never looks its best at the close of the season, yet it need never appeéar bad- ly if its owner is willing to expend a few hours of time and a little money. Take each suit and look it over crit- ically, brush and beat free from dust, clean any spots, repair ‘frayed edges and replace worn linings and hooks and eyes that are missing. Then press thoroughly. Street suits require the pressing that only a skilled tailor can- do. Fresh lingerie sleeves, new stocks of the latest mode and a fresh belt or gixdle will achieve wonders in bringing - a suit up to date. Discard the shirt waists that begin to look passe and have a few new ones of vesting, fine flannel or etamine piped with silk. Make them quite simple and they will be nice to wear during late spring or cool summer days. Hats may be freshened by having the plumes re- curled, wings repaired or replaced by~ fresh trimmings. A fine frame cam be retrimmed at this season of the year for a mere trifle. -Restore fine net veil- ings which have become stringy by sponging them with a weak solution of black 'starch; pin them out to dry, keeping the edges: perfectly straight. Above all things keep gloves . and shoes in perfect order, for economizing on these items s fatal to style or neat- - and draperies remember that the . able .in. the -‘immense, amcunt ‘of HOME DECORATICON (Mary).—When g wall HIN papeér gen- its exposure as sel eral style of the room, and connections with other rooms, well' as wood work and any valuable turnishings you may have on hand, must all be taken’ into counsideration. While a person may have excellent that she can tably with- taste it-does not follow decorate an interjor ace out a great deal of thiought and a’well - * formulated plan.as a bas It practic an e, " A carpet or art that. requires much piece of paper or a bit of drapery inay look anything strip ‘and yet style when but. desir- possess an cor- rectly placed; or the reverse may be the case, Daintily pretty colors which appeal so strongly to6 the amateur be- come tiresome in a short time; light colors-must be exquisite in quality and be well placed or they are likely to have a’* tawd .effect, accentuating every false line of architecture. Dark, subdued colors are always to be pre- ferred. 'Unless one very sure: of one's own ability it is money well in- vested to consult a decoratér and 0Ob- tain-a scheme of colors for the guid- ance of yourself and workmen before beginning any. work of this kind; then insist that all of the details be fol lowed closely, for a little varidtion here and there is likely to upset the whole scheme of harmony, no matter how_ well planned it was in the be- ginning. However, ds you intend o spend such a liberal amount as- you mention, I weuld suggest that you em- play au experienced decorator to take the matter in charge and employ his own assistants. This will- save you much @nnoyarice and possibly from, se- rious mistakes. is IMPROVING A. WRINKLED SKIN (M. H. D.).—The too vigorous use df kot water,” soap and the. complexion brush- will soon ‘deprive the skin of its -natural oil and cause it to look parched, wrinkled and’ coarse. While * cleanliness is indispensable to héalth, st not be overdone. Nature has supplied the skin with innumerable sebaceous glands, which are con- stantly throwing off oil to prevent the very condition of which vou complain; as nature’s supply has been impov- erished, you must resort to a lubri- cant to restore the soft texture of the skin. .There is a vast difference be- tween hot and warm water for faclal treatment. The latter is essential to i cleanliness, but hot water should only" be used occasiopally, and then only when absolutely necessary. It is too relaxing and roughening in its effects, and will cause the face to “catch” the powder, no matter how little is used. Never negiect to follow the nightly face bath with a cold douch, to which may be added a few drops of tincture of -benzoin to assist in toning up the .skin.. Dry the face on a soft damask towel,” and in future use the brush only two or three times a week; it is too harsh for frequent use at the pres- ent time. Obtain a reliable emollient— alinond oil is excellent—and use every night after the face bath, rubbing it in well: As you do not need to build out the face, use only enough to make the skin smooth, but not greasy. Wipe away any surplus that your skin fails to absorb with a clean ‘towel. ; TO CURL THE HAIR (Jean).—Hair that is very ofly is difficult to keep in curl by any method. It must first be rendered soft anrd dry by thorough shampooing; then it may be waved or curled quite successfully unless the hair should be damp. The repulsive stringy appearance of ofly hair can . only be overcome by frequent .sham- pooing. About once in two weeks is usually sufficient, if combs and brushes are Kkept clean by weekly washings. As your hair is now' oversupplied with the natural oil, tenics are quite un- necessary. A little pure bay rum, two barts to one part of water, rubbed into the scalp and used to moisten the hair, will assist in keeping it dry and in a healthy condition. Very hot curling irons are extremely injurious, giving the hair a lifeless look even if not burning it. When using the curling or waviig tomgs test before applying them to the I par iron scorched the is to of two seconds without paper shows the iron about right. Never neglect to wipe away any smoke which may have accumulated on the fron _while heating; it-is e, even though you ' cannot e it. A curling fluid said to be very e acious in keep- ing the hair in curl is made as follows: To one pint of hot witer aéd one-half ounce of refined be and one dram of gum arabic. - When the ingredients are tissolved add two. tablespoonsful of spirits of camphor. $train through fing muslin and bottle for w: Moisten the hair with the fluid and roll up each lock on kid or paper curlers and leave until perfectly d HEALTH FOR MENTAL WORK- ERS (Busy Women).—The. fact that one's work is almost wholly mental is the morg reason why the health should receive- the very best of care. It is folly tq say you haven’t time, - Na- ture Will nat endure half-way methods indefinitely and poor mental efforts will be the result. To keep a healthy brain, a healthy. body made vigorous by core rect living is necessary. To over-eat with too little exercise-in the endeavor keep up is ‘a good deal-like over- feeding an engine without removing the ashes. It would soon be out of business. Try the plan here suggested for a month and I am certain you will feel like a new Wwoman. Rige a half hour earlier than is now your habit, take a quick sponge bath, using tepid water, and a good rub down with scru- pulous care as tc the details of the toilet.” Eat a simple nourishing break- fast; no fried abominations, hot cakes or syrup to incite dyspepsia and super- induce dull mental action. A brisk walk of three or more blocks will bring a glow to the cheeks, and if deep breathing is practiced, all the better. Fresh air will do more than anything else to ward off colds and tone up the system. Dress sensibly in garments that are as light as is consistent with proper warmth-and which will allow proper freedom, There are plenty of smart suits ‘for business whick embody fhese "points. At night walk a few .blocks on the homeward journey, for it will be a relief after a day in an office. Slip off all the clotliing and rest for balt an hour before dressing for din- ner. ‘Bathe -the face, brush and rear- range the- hair and put on a fresh gown, and the dinner will be 50 per cent more enjoyable. GOWNS SUITABLE FOR WED- DINGS (Elderly Mother).—A handsome gown.for you to wear at the wedding of your daughter may be fashioned of soft gray silk or voile, trimmed with rich lace of a deep cseam color; vest and lingerie sleeves of white chiffon, with trimmings of cut steel beads and touehes of violet and black embroidery on the bodice; or the embroidery may be of black and white. The stylish toque or bonnet should be of black tulls, the gdge and crown embroidered in steel and jet; black and white os- trich pompon and aigrette of paradise plumes. If preferred the gown may be of black ring dotted net, embroidered with jets and worn over a lining of white silk, preferably peau de soie. The toque may be of black and white tulle, jet ornaments, black and white tip& Delicate heliotrope silk, volle of one of the pew crepes with ttimmings of Vene ice lace dyed to match; cream white chiffon and inserted motifs of helles trope, cream, gold and black, are other combinations suggested which would be entirely suitable. ‘While the latest fashion demands horizontal trimmings, a woman inclined to-embonpoint will eschetv this mode and Imsist largely upon vertical lines. A skirt with a nar- row front panel, with sid._ and back gores plaited at the top, - ‘1l be becom- ing. Outline the front par ¢l and foot of skirt with a band of trimming, also the drop shoulder yoke ant narrow vest to match or with set-in lace. Have & nar- row crush girdle carefully bomed and closely fitted.