The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 1, 1904, Page 10

_THE ‘SAN «.a thing of heauty comfort .to the will study 1 peculiar style— | aists “for after- < and- shirt waists evenings'— The ves that are cut like at sleeve and the Jdeeves that are flowing, haupipe, -angel, leg o | ton and. 1830—How ike and decorate a rol sleeves, ; By. Augusta . Prescott.- sleeve would’ not this spring material ig ods, printed s & -immense = along-two-of ils arm. hole. The an apgel sieeve’ which hangs of her gown & decollete gown alore. 1to afternoon € and is worn €leeve’ which is made sleeve is bx. no means of sleeve on the dressy sleeve which is called garis 4 e.” It.is made of thin s so very full at ble a pillow case. wers forms the are pohtinued up point above. the elbow, wers extend around the .arm, aking 4 f band : : ely go astray if you-are de : v “sleeves, providivg you slecve. pretty and comfort- ew sleeves are both. You ke a eleeve and €t At up the 2 Into -this slit, you van set & strip of handsome lace.- And aroungd u can gather a’ Heep fall make:a lingerie_cuff. ‘That a sleevep which will be. gréatly worn. t is cool and.comfortable far midsiim- mer wear. : And sleeve wi there dthey ch i€ made -three times as ng as the arm and is gathered.full up gleeves the inside seam is seen in-all the thin stuffs there is thesléeve which ie.1aid In tucks up the . inner’ seam.. Again there is a sleeve which is slit upen along the inner sleeve and allowed to fall back to display a hatidsome un- dersleeve, The leg o than not think mutton more e, and women who did they could éver wear a:wide sleeve of this description are adopting it for wear under thé summer coat, of which more ghall be told Mater, The Sieeve Comes First. In making the gown do mot negleot the sleeve. It takes precedence in im- port e over all other parts of the gown, and if the sleeve is .not made carefully, prettily and in most_ cases showily the gown is not a success. There are women whp insist “upon having their sleeves designed for them, and in a great many cases this is a ®ood plan. A woman who is a little too short or a little top tall or.a litile out of the ordinary in any way should have her sleeves designed in order that they may the better show off her good ° points. The tall, slender woman possesses an advantdge over the short She can wear noveélty sleeves s without fear 6f shortening e. The little woman, on the must be careful: The baggy lling just at her waist line, make her seem very shprt, and if be a little full around the hips they 1 make her positively dumpy. ° The woman who is stout can wear he sleeves in which all the “fullness omes at the back of the arm. Jf she N slit her sleeves up the outside seam and will set in a very wide frill of lace as far up as the elbow she will have enormous womar f all k her sta other sleeves somcthing very nice. This deep frill set - the outside seam has many advan- tages besides making the figure slim. 1t is & style that can be adapted to any old dleeve, and it is something- which eoes well with everything and never goes out of style. B T matter of the adjustabfe sleeve hat should be conmsidered by every wo who loves fine clothes. This adjus it sleeve is taken out ¥ L supposed that-the an- - ° sleeves with The eleeve is worn ° s o Tt Z can have two or three pairs of ‘every and, if the sleeves be planned nt lines, the gown will actually seem like a new one. To, work the adjustable sleeve prop- erly the gown should be built with the very deep yoke falling well ovér the shoulder and hiding the shoulder seam In this way the -buttons and button holes which connect the sleeves with the arm hole are invisible: The Materials of Summer. The adjusiable sleeve can-beé worn beautifully -with the epaulette. This epaulette, which consists of a band of cloth about four .inches wide, is ap- plied to -the ‘waist beginning at the neck. It extends down'to.the shoul- der and over the arm, hanging down in 2 wide tag which is embroidered or trimmed. with buttohs. On the epau- lette strap can be buttoned; to the top ‘of the sleeve with a handsome button Whiie the shirt waist plays an un- important part as ‘coripared-with: th= 'sleeve thereof, still. the waist' " itself must not be wholly, heglecteid. @ And, indeed, upon.its material, the style’of the sleeve devends. There dre shirt waists. thig .year in a4 widé .variéty- of mdterials and colors, and after an ex- Amination of the . wWindows. which ‘shaw the new walsts, one is tempted.to helieve {hat there is ho material what. ever which is not made up into shirt waist designs. 3 R Ay The washable waists are lovely: in cambric and. they - are . making very useful and pretty ones ot of old fash- foned -calico, which costs but a seng aod is very neat when taflored and fin- ished in the new ways. - There come @esigns in calico at 6 and.8 cents 2 yard which can be made up into shirt - waists for a fractional sum. Four yards will make a waist -and, for 25 cents, one can buy a set of shitt waist studs to match the figures in the cal- ico, blue, pink, brown, green or gun metal. 3 - As for shirt wast suits, there s noth- ing neater tham calico; and the girl who will go to the trouhble of making herself half a dozen shirt waists will not regret the time and surely she will not regret the money, for no better showing could be made on the money expended. .. . . .- There are three qr four vital points to be considered in making these shirt waist suits: The first is that they "be tailored as to the seams. beautifully set by the London tailor- made ‘suits. upon which the English tailors work so faithfully. The seeond point ig the fit and the care in making % the design match. The third-is the fin- ishings, such as facings, button holes, cuffs and collar. And the fourth is the style, which should be that of a full skirt and a modified blouse .with low shoulders, fuM sleeve and dip froot. Beautiful Afternoon Gowns. Lovely shirt waists and shirt waist . suits are built -of lawn, mufl, nainsook. - batiste,” Madras,. linen, duck, cotton goods of.all kinds ang cheviot: These give a fine range as to weight, and the woman with a shirt “waist of each, with three skirts through the summer season fairly well equipped with afternoon gowns. Still one must have a little more; for The copy is - to match, will go~ FRANCISCO . SUNDAY .CALL. g afternovns . have .-become- very nd one cannot go about as ong did -in ‘& ‘golf -gkirt “and reefer uatil night; even at a country resort. The afterncons have become quite stately in_their -dress, and ‘women with .trafi- é ZZIS ing skirts & Ia ‘Eugenie, wonven_ in TRBLAVLED FHILH white a Ta the ‘1815 days,” women in PELPZET BoriS. 1830 . gowns, full and’-.abundantly trimmed, -and Wwomen- in. the full’ shirred skirts of this season will walk -the piazzas or -sif. under. the shade of trees plying .the needle and thread. And what will they.-sew? -‘Gone ‘are the simplicity days. No more will the work be’plain ‘seams or :drawn work, Bibia a0 Sk o 2 '1n;'{é(a':f"ik‘rnin::et::!n::h::e womds, . Apd amons the woiked things which ‘who sits under a tice sewing Wil ‘work ;e':;‘F;' 'b‘“'q"?.‘" 8 ERRAictaty) ¢ A0 upon & yoke of canvae and her design k:lill!ng .u;:c:": :;‘:‘CT[ .a:':u tl";“::erb‘: will be a_wonderfully colored -ome.in yaeon€ AT SRR B S cross stitching. * She will work her yoke molds which are cavered .with satin and her gauntlet cuffs and she will Sad S lhRa By mavia s ek e ‘emibroider a wondertul lar - 3 BRI Dl InraTe. rfal square collar S putton molds are covered with to by 2 u?m elafl:xe:h ': h::fl ::"::’:r:l;.;n":o::n bead ‘work.” Then there are the porce- o lain. buttons which are painted and must get yp early and work late if she 010004 oy one would glaze cliina paint 1 g “ n’ec:m"“' :':n:?‘“n&ll‘;‘:’::‘;;:m' the g -And there ‘are buttons that are lecessary .. covéred with silk in such a manner And. what are these small 'things 2 that a tii K 1 which are so requistte a part of a op of gh:iu?fi.'_” Shieo poiges o ‘woman's gowning? There are many, . There is a. Yad for covering a button and among them can be numbered the with a casing of gold wire. These little “BY A HAIR’ the worked stock,:the yoke. with epaulets 2ttached; the 'gauntiet,- or- the. deep,. . tight cuff, the waistcoat ‘or vest ‘which™. . has’ been. revived thi§ season and -the . deep " girdle.. These. and many other '_ small things must be Wworked -by hand . to-Be bexutifur. ULt .. Powerful Russian novel by Headon Hills which gives .a new insight into the maze of intrigue and plot and counterplot through which the Czar carries out his ' BEGINS IN NEXT - Yokes are made of lace, S BREADTH” © pretty. [ vetvet. ] -'girdle.. It is laid in folds, with the gold wire casings are slipped over the button and wemen who are handy with their fingers are buying the finest kind of wire and twisting it into shape and slipping it over the buttons after they have covered them. Canvas buttons, all worked by hand, are anothes fea- tyre of the button mold industry. Simultaneously with the decorative sleeve comes the transparent yoke. with stock attached, and are hooked ardund the neck.’ They can be redioved at any The transparent yoke is made of stiff-'material and nesds no lining. If made of very fine lace it can be wired to keep it upright. Piece lace makes a very good transparent mecker and it has the advantage of washing if made of the right stuffs. The neckless shirt waist is almost necessary with the transparent yoke, and so vomfortable is this neckless cg dition ‘that one quite falis In love with the shirt waists that are made with- out stocks.. They are finished round with a pretty plain stitched band of the goods or with a piping. . time. A very dressy way to'finish the neck- less shirt. waist is in the form of the 8 I\u'p'llco front, folded across. The neck in this case is pointed In front and the transparent yoke is remarkably “There are curved fronts in which the neck of the dress is quite cut away and the .transparént yoke is be—all embroidery . 'Girdles for Summer Gowns. . The deep girdle is a feature of the summer gown. It is made of silk, of satin, of ribbon, of taffeta or of chiffon ‘Is sliape is. that .of £ folded folds 411 pointing downward. Its shape is pointed at. the bottom, though the dip°is very slight. Across the front is slid a wide gold buckle, which makes 2 charming ornament.as a sort of finish for the belt. These front buckles cest not a little. They come in all the metals and are set With all the stones, .precious and semi:precious. It §s rather surprising to the uninitiated to note how rhuch . can be paid for these buckles, and the woman who wants to do so can spe~d a hyndred dollars as ecasily as she caa spend one. : A girdle buckle made for the Duchess of Marlborough is in silver, set with turquoise and-sapphires. The buckle is about eight inches deep in front and has the look of an adtique, for the sil- ver i slightly darkened. A-buckie made for a wealthy New York woman is in gold, with a marvel- ously: carved gold figure in. the center, arrangéd llke a medallion. If is sur- rounded by small difamonds. Another wide’ buckle for the front of the girdle * is made of fine jet, and this, to tell the pPrecarious existence @ W@ ® @ @ @ @ SUNDAY CALL —_— trath, is the most fetching of all, for it is worn upon a girdle of aew blue chit- fon velvet and the contrast is exquis- ite. 3 . * A very charming arrangement is made to afford these deep gijrdles a proper setting. With a girdle of tur- «quoise liberty satin there is a shoulder- ette which is adjusted to the neck of a neckless gown. A transparent yoke shows traces of blue. Next day there can‘be worn a wide folded girdle of chiffor velvet in a shade of ccral red. - other browns on And with this there is a coral.red ngck- er. Little touches of this sort make the washable shirt waist suit very charm- ing, particularly.if it be made cf the mulls, the lawns, the balist the linens or the challies of the scason. . The matter of tubable go®ns has now been compromised. The shirt waist guits aresmade washable. That -is. the ruffles are of the kind that be laundered and the skirts are so ranged around the beit lime that rirey can be ironed. And the same with the waist. New Laces and New. Collars. washable shirt waist rn the wide folded gir- the wide with th ik saflor collar, and deep silk cuffs, which can be pu at will, adjusted and fast: small pins. Witen thus finis suit has a certain dressy air Wh would not otherwise have. clude all the laces is ‘The popular lac that come from the looms, for there no such thing as an untashionable lace Particularly are the novelty laces style, while the Valencienres laces in these revivial -days arg particularly well Jiked. Little Val ruffles are al- most a necedsity with the thin gown s e also gowns The other laces much worn are A and Swiss laces. Irish laces seen in profusion, and for dres: there is an arrangement of blac tilly, over which is set cream with very telling effect Do you know new colors? And have you made a s of ‘them? -J¢ would be well worth your while. One of the new colors is ash gray, which fs worn with oyster gray and pearl gray. All three are combined and made up with white, producing a really elegant combination. Havana brown, cigar brown and to- bacco brown are b ariations of the same . shade. of color; and sealskin brown is a brown with which one 's familiar; though it.has not been n so much in late years. Mink colored brown and chamois-skin ' brown -are both very good shades, and theie are burnt bread and the burnt biscuit orders which come as near being the height of style as afy- thing that can be worn. What would be called a lov cojor in the linens is celery green. It is a light green, and goes very well with spinach green, which is quite dark. The two colors together in lasn maka & guip ~ BAGALZE SZEEF= very.swell Wwaist, cool and clean:looking and one which, when piped with white linen; Gomes, out almost dressy enough for’dinner wear. There is this about green—that it is cool looking. But it is a color which should be worn alone not in combination With other ton A gowfi all of green, with a little white to set it off, is very attractive for sum- Hints. for New Gowns. One of -the loveliest shirt waists of the .geason ‘was made of champagne colored mull. It was trimmed with ivory white lace and piped with pearl white bands. A deep girdle of opal yellow chiffon velvet confined the waist. They say there was never SO many new colors as this year. And, mot only are there many new colors frem. which to pick, but there are many revived tones. Among the shades which are either new or revived are opal yellow, pansy purple, orchid purplé and the rew dark pink. These tones suggest a great deal fn the line of harmony Then there are the beautiful celery greens, spinach green, lettuce green and mignonette green. Of the four tints, one can hardly select the coolest or the cleanest, for green has a curi- ously clean look. In lmems, in duck, in canvas and in madras it is lovely. A shade that is being considerably exploited is rose heilotropes and all shades of rose are mow brought out in the popular fabrics. In the cloth gowns, new pink is pop- ular for calling. And those who pre- fer something a little less startling can wear gunpowder, blue, or chamois brotwn, smolke blue or mink. These tones in cloth are very lady-like, as is golder brewn, the fancy for which amounts to a color furor. Gowns are selected with so much care this season that dne expects to see them worn without a coa'; yet the separate coat Was never quite as popu- lar. It is worn over shirt waists and over full suits. - More separafe coats are made this season than ever before, and no ‘matter what the gown, there maust be a coat that can be slipped over it. The coat, far from matching, is of a contrasting color and materfal. The separate coats, whether three- quarter, half length or reefer: whether Eton or postilion coat, whether Louis Quinze. Directoire or sack, whether kimaono, bolero or Monte Carlo, is made as dressy as possible. It i3 elegantly lined, and the lining s beautifully or- nate with embroidery or barnds or lace. The coats are made with wide sleeves, and can be numbered among the ex- travagant things of summer wear.