The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 24, 1904, Page 11

struggled to keep a ed picture plume fresh roughout the long win- now sigh a genuine sigh expect s when g off and ear se Whatever you do, mo matter how all or insignificant the task, make it a strict rule to do it well you will always be coming te e easy and t because methods And 3 the requisites simple, as sim soap and water, for instance, don't get the mistaken idea into your head the treatment isn't absolutely scientific p2nd practical. ple as plain that Always be careful when selecting bowls for washing dainty fabrics. Tin is not good, mor any metal for that matter, as they are liable to rust, but enamel ware or the brown bowls that are commonly used cakes up are splendid and soap and er do not injure them in the slightest. One to more word of advice ut soap erial or a on any thi hing, fact, that ca: t be rubbed thoroughly and well ng it over a board or hands sufficiently to akes unsightly wrin- and the material is the very start Instead, make good luther of a white soap and warm water. Pour hot water over the soap and let it dissolve until the suds are foamy and then cool to the required temperature. When your bowl is well filled dip the plume in and out several ti allowing the fuffy flyabouts to ome saturated su will be surprised to see how y the water will discolor and darken. If the feather is much soiled, and they generally are, this simple pro- cedure will not de sufficient, but if you will gently draw the tip through the fingers as you would a handkerchief, the plume will assume its old freshness and not show the least sign of wear or Under no circumstances ?ea\'e a par- ticle of soap in it, for of a surety it will be a sad, sticky looking affair— ashamed of itself to hold its head ad look youw squarely in the face. Fill your bowl with clear warm water and rinse it thoroughly and if you are wise you will use still another water to be positively certain that not a ves- tige of soap remains Shaking a feather often brings some of its flufMiness back, but it is not the wisest thing to do with a very wet one,-as the baby feathers break and hang their heads in a silly, woe-begone fashion. When you take it from the % last water have a clean towel ready and wrap it about the plume so that as much water will be absorbed as pos- sible. Then in a few minutes pat it pressing it get the soap out ¥ kles and creases utterly ruined ) ~ Nigra» thct their heat may evenly 1 will discover your- clean feather, but not a me. T are a e and half a dozen of say sprinkle sugar on d hold the plume in the possessir ways 1S One fumes that will fill every nook and corner of the kitchen in about two sec- onds, while others advocate holding it over the spout of a boiling kettle and then dr t with the heat of a gas stove or a powerful lamp. But neither methods will make the to be urt look be- like w, though ¢ t will assume a c>rtain and uot with @ blunt knife is by far u can be trusted to 1 for the tiny brittle and break u draw them quickly the blade, each and 1 up and vie with one in seeing who can really look but d easily over ry another the best i vou like, shake the finished a hot stove and the heat it look a little lighter and Iren, if feath: over /, an aigrette may be exactly the same wz but more than careful, as its >ss is frequently its ruina- for if a number of the independ- little quills are broken its entire And there is just one more thing to mention about hats. Chiffon facings turn gray with dust and it is simply impossible to brush it all out, and even if a vigorous brushing would do it, the material is too fragile to stand such treatment. Brush and shake out as much as you can and rhen dip the whole into alcohol and hang it up to dry If the material has assymed a fair black, a sponge dampened with the alcphol will clean it nicely and not take any of its natural stiffness away, but either trick is simple to a degree and frequently saves quite a sum, for hats run into yards of this soft, shim- mery stuff without half trying. — | Answers to t i j Correspondents - — TREATMENT OF HAIRY SKIN. (Mary)—Tle use of lubricants, such as cold creams, cocoa butter and vaseline, cannot be advised except in very small quantities for skins that are at all hairy, for all of them will promote the growth of hair if used for any length of time; but this does not follow on faces not predisposed to an undue growth of hair unless continual and lavish applications are indulged in. As your skin does not chap readily, I would suggest that you use glycerin and rose water, equal parts, and a little almond oil when necessary to soften the skin, or the prepared honey and almond cream, which will assist in keeping the skin soft and white. Peroxide of hy- drogen will lighten the color of the hair on the arms and after three or four ap- plications the hair will become brittle and much of it can be brushed off. As this treatment does not destroy the roots of the hair it must be repeated THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. [7?42‘1’11‘1611’ GERNTLY WL 2078 HANDS 4:4 after a time. Electricity is not prac- ticable when so many hairs are to be removed. A skilled dermatologist will remove the moles and hairs which an- noy you without leaving any apprecia- ble scars, but do not permit an ama- teur to tamper with such growths, for scars will surely result. MASSAGE FOR ENLARGED POR (Forty-five)—With advancing years the pores of the skin will enlarge as the skin and muscles become re- laxed. Scientific massage will take away years of too apparent age, re- storing vigor and elasticity to flaccld muscles, and is well worth an effort to obtain. If this is not feasible in your location try home treatment for a time and note results carefully. Remember, however, the old adage, “what is one man’s meat is another’s poison,” and do not expect too mueh in a short time. Keep at it persistently and results will come so0 that the marks to time can be held in abeyance. From your descrip- tion I fear you have precipitated the relaxed muscles by too many hot baths. Scrupulous cleanliness can be overdone. Two or three hot baths each week and a tepid, or preferably cold, if the shock is not too great, sponge bath each morning, followed by a brisk rub-down, will assist in toning up the relaxed skin. Use warm water, but no hot water on the face and always rinse with cold water. As a tonic add ten drops each of alcohol and tincture of benzoin to the rinsing water. Pure al- cohol diluted one-half is very beneficial to contract the pores and may be ap- plied once or twice daily if it agrees with you, for all people cannot use it. Massage the face dally after cleansing, using a cold cream. THE LATEST IN JACKETS. (A. K. M.)—Advance models of the smartest new costumes for street wear in -the spring have short Eton jackets beau- tifully tailored and trimmed with strappings of cloth in contrasting color or weave, or both. The distinguishing touch on other styles is novelty braid, a vest of embroidered cloth or many buttons. Nothing seems to quite equal an artistically placed button to give perfect completion to an outdoor gar- Y )Y)) V) > ment, nence their well-deserved popu- larity. Fitted girdle belts are a fea- ture of the newest models, and a stand- ing or turned-over collar a change from collarless styles, although the latter are still in evidence. Boleros are also an established fact; though not so gener- ally becoming as the Eton, the bolero is extremely smart. When worn by young and rather slender women. These indomitable little jackets are cut on different lines from heretofore and nov- elty of trimming precludes any resem- blance to the models of last season, and yet all of the admirable points have been retained. These ideal short gar- ments afford perfect protection without the fatigue of the cumbersome long coat, which has proven such a burden to women. Shoulder capes are numer- ous and are novel in outline, giving ex- cellent excuses for ornate effects. Sleeves of the coat order are retained for the severely plain jackets, the fan- cy and plaited models being almost en- tirely confined to the dressy Etons. The Louis XIV sleeve with the flare cuff and full ruffle of wide lacg falling over the hand is the latest in dressy sleeves for afternoon and evening wraps and coats. MAKING CHOCOLATE FUDGE. (School Girl)=Fudge should be boiled four or five minutes; to test it, drop a little in cold water; if done, it will form in a soft ball when rolled be- tween the fingers. Stir constantly from start to finish. The materials required are two squares of chocolate, one rounding teaspoonful of butter, two teaspoorifuls of vanila extract, two- thirds of a cup of sweet milk and two cupfuls of granulated sugar. Put the milk, grated chocolat¢ and sugar into a nmew saucepan, boil and test as di- rected; when done take from the fire at once, let cool for a few seconds, then stir in the flavoring and beat until smooth and creamy. If the saucepan 1s set in a pan of cold water it will fa- cilitate the cooling process. Spread the mixture in a shallowed buttered pan and mark off into squares. Fig or nut fudge is made by chopping the fruit or nuts very fine and adding them to the chocolate fudge after taking from s} the fire. To Insure perfect flavor al- ways use new pans in which to boil and cool the fudge. A, GRACEFUL CARRIAGE,. (Laura) —A graceful carriage is within the ch of every woman who will exert will power. To step heavily with head bent or to amble along with mincing steps will make a fright of any woman. Practice”Wwalking each day with your mind entirely centered on the exercise. This will enable you to keep the head and shoulders in correct pose, and, by wearing a short skirt, grace and free- dom of movement will be possible at the same time. Lest you forget you might try the plan of pinning a small weight to the crown of your hat in such a manner that it will slip forward instantly and remind you that you are bending your head forward. Do not go to the other extreme and thrust the chin upward and forward. To correct the habit of holding the head to one side, try carrying a small weight upon the head when walking about the house. A small bag of salt is a nice weight to use. To balance it you wili be com- pelled to hold your head correctly and this will, in time, break off the ob- jectionable pose. While at all times we should be unconscious of self as possi- ble, nothing but cultivation will eradi- cate faults of any nature. Grace of manner and of carriage can only be attained by concentrated labor until the act becomes a fixed habit. Learn to carry the arms quietly, for a con- tinual swinging or jerking movement is distressing. If you are very nervous carry a purse and the hand containing it and the unoccupied hand and arm, as well, will soon be trained to hang gracefully at the sides. The shoes should be broad, with low heels, to in- sure perfect support and freedom of action. POINTS ON MAKING SHIRT, WAISTS. (Belle)—Shirt waists of mer- cerized vestings should be made severe- 1y plain; as the fabric is quite heavy, it does not take kindly to shirring or fine tucks; no matter how neatly done, it lgoks out of place. The most popular mode of completion is half-inch plaits, machine stitching and pearl buttons. Epaulette straps or applied vertical straps on the waist are pérmissible. The edges should be turned in one-half inch before stitching. Do not line’the epaulettes with the same fabric, it will make them very clumsy; finish the raw edges with an underfacing of lawn, cut bias, stitch and press on the wrong side before arranging on the waist. The waist and sleeves should hot be lined, for the goods is too firm in texture to require it. The fullness in front, at the walst line, may be gatitered by the aid of a tape and casing or laid in fine plaits and gathers and stitched perma- nently. If you are of full figure, the latter is advised. To obviate the bunch of folds under the top of the skirt” caused by the bottom of the waist, the edge below the gathers should be cut away. In heavy fabrics the lower edge should be pinched or bound with seam binding to avold & clumsy hem. It is not necessary to bone the underarm seam, for if fitted correctly it will not ride up. Trim the waist of brown linen with pipings of scarlet and the collar and cuffs with French knots in scarlet silk or linen. The waist or corn flower blue cheviot will be smart trimmed with cross-stitch embroMery in Persian or Bulgarian colors. CARE OF THE NOSE. (Agnes)—The nose is supplied with a greater number of oil glands than any other part of the body, and it is also highly sensitive, hence its proneness to enlarged pores, blackheads and redness. Continual vig- ilance will, however, keep this feature presentable if you will persevere in fol- lowing the directions here given. De- fective circulation, indigestion and the harsh use of the handkerchief are at the bottom of the red nose, as a rule. A brisk rubbing with a batl. mitten or a coarse towel just before going to bed will greatly assist in effecting a cure by stimulating the circulation. Stop your habit of punctuating your conver- sation by frequent pulling of the nose. Not only is such action decidedly bad form, but in time it will cause a mal- formation of the nose. Never neglect the nightly face bath, followed with massage and a soothing lotion. Rub the tips of the first and second fingers of both hands very lightly with some good skin food to prevent an irritation of the skin. Place the moistened fin- gers at the base of the nose and, with a rotary movement, rub upward, mak- ing six or eight revolutions, with a straight upward stroke between and over the eyebrows. Repeat fifteen or twenty times; the glow thus induced will soon banish congested pores. The tip of the nose may also receive a gen- tle rotary movement. The following lo- tion to be used once or twice daily will soon allay the redness of the nose, but be careful not to get any of it into the eyes. Take one drachm of sulphate of potassium, four drachms glycerin, two drachms of tincture of benzoin and one-half pint of rose water. Dissolve the potassium in the rose water, then stir in the other ingredients. COLORS AND COMPLEXIONS. (Auburn Hair)—The old theory that blue was the color for blondes, and es- pecially for women with auburn hair, has long since been exploded. A befter cultivation of artistic tastes and es- pecially of color values has taught women the fallacy of the blonde and blue combination. As a matter of har- mony-fact, If the term ray be allowed, the sharp contrast of light brilliant blue and auburn hair is most trying. Cold, hard colors are rarely a success unless selected by an expert, but soft colors with a hint of cream or golden hue are most happy blending, as they do so per- fectly with the color of the hair and the complexion. For example: For house and evening gowns select cream white in pale or deep shades, and ecru, with touches of sage and moss greens, delicate pinkish lavender, shades of violet, nile green softened with plenty of ecru lace, black net, plain and span- gled, and black silk or black cloth for other occasions. For street costumes select shades of medium and dark brown relieved with ecru, cream or black, warm grays with touches of deep cream and black or a bit of rich Oriental or Bulgarian embroidery. Mix- tures in gray and green or with an ad- mixture of violet, brown, black and green and black and gray or white are all desirable and may be trimmed with black fiber braid in some of the new and novel patterns. SCHOOL FROCKS (Mrs. J. W.)— Substantial dark fabrics smartly made with, trimmings of velvet, braid or simple machine stitching are most ap- propriate for school wear. Children are so restless that delicate frocks are a constant annoyance to mother and children. Reserve the frail fabrics, laces, etc., for dressy wear, occasions when liberties are somewhat curtailed. For ordinary use provide practical frocks which will withstand wear and tear without material damage. A pret- ty frock is made of dahlia red serge with trimmings of narrow black velvet ribbon and small gilt buttons. Make a jaunty French waist gathered or plaited to a circular yoke, or the yoke may be simulated by facing the top of the two piece lining which sup- ports the waist. Outline the yoke with a circular bertha, rather deeply point- ed at the shoulders to emphasize the popular 1830 shoulder effect. Trim the yoke with circular rows of velvet rib- bon and also say three or four rows of the velvet ribbon on edge of bertha, belt and full skirt about three inches from its lowest edge. Make one-seam- ed bishop sleeve either plain or plaited to correspond with the waist. Gather lower edge into a band cuff trimmed with velvet ribbon and buttons. A novel touch is given by slashing the bertha at the shoulder and placing three buttons on each side of the slash just inside the rows of velvet. The skirt should be made without a lining and finished with a four-inch hem, al~ though a cute little drop skirt of sile- sia or sateen may be used if desired, sewed in at the belt only. Fancy tweeds and suitings are suitable and stylish for misses made either in shirt waist or jacket suits. A model in the latter style is 6f nut brown tweed flecked with dark green and blue, and the modish blouse jacket has collar, cuffs and belt of green velvet out- lined with a single row of black fiber braid. A cream white and brown mer- cerized vesting shirt waist is worm with the suit. FOR RAINY DAYS (Business Wo- man)—The day has gone when any old suit is considered good enough for stormy weather. The wise woman knows that she looks anything but her best when buffeted about by the ele ments with bedraggled skirts and fly- ing locks, and has set about in trus American fashion to overcome the evil. The newest and most practical rainy day suits are made of cravenettes cut exactly like the modish walking suit. The finish consists of machine stitch- ing, pearl or cloth buttons, coat collan inlaid with velvet or contrasting ma- terial and lining of gray clan plaid. Storm serge, cheviot, frieze, water« proof and mackintosh cloths are also in evidence. The skirts are gored with plain stitched seams or with plaits at each seam. The side or box plaited flounce mounted to the edge of a gored skirt is popular, but not nearly as practical as the plain gored skirt, whick may be ornamented by a shaped band at the lower edge. All skirts clear the ground two or more inches. Coats are in short three-quarters length, loose or fitted; also in Norfolk and automobile style, with and withont shoulder capes. When the wise woman dresses for a rainy day she discards all petticoats except one short underskirt and dons equestrian tights to guard against cold. Her hair is brushed and coiled secure- ly, held with a few extra pins, and she does not make the mistake of wearing heavy shoes which will wet through so that she is obliged to have wet feet all day. The sensible woman puts on overshoes or sandals, and she selects a smart walking hat free from display and perishable trimmings, and one which will fit the head securely. A veil of rather close mesh net or chiffon worn over the face and pinned secure- 1y, with free short ends, keeps the hair tidy, while a neat umbrella and stout dark gloves complete the sensible toilet. RED MARKS ON FACE (Cordelia)— Too violent treatment of facial erup- tions is usually responsible for the dis- figuring red marks which are left after the eruptions heal. In removing faclal eruption, coax them rathér than drive them away. Picking at pimples pro- duces an irritation which only retards their quick development and conse- quent quick disappearance. When a pimple presents a pustulated point, wash the spot with warm soapy water and open with a fine sharp needle. Protect the face from bruising by covering the finger tips with a perfectly clean piece of white linen, then press out the pus; then bathe the spot with clean warm ‘water, using a bit of car- bolated cotton. Pat gently with a small piece of linen or cotton wet with witch hazel to assist in removing every atom of impurity. If inflamed or sore, wet a bit of cotton with witch hazel and hold on the spot for fifteen or twenty minutes, Absolute ‘cleanliness is im- perative in the treatment of any broken skin. If the skin is very sensi- tive, a red mark may be left, even with care. Exercise patience and gently massage the spot every day with a good cold cream, giving the treatment just before retiring. -