The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 17, 1904, Page 11

| HOW A BEAUTIFUL HAND SHOULD BE TREATED ! THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. BY MADGE MOORE - /Tfi/fi% <> < P 0 many and so varied are the little perplexities that enter into almost every woman’s life without finding satisfactory solution, and so many and so unugual are the letters that are con- stantly being received from women who cannot find an answer to their questions in any other way, that The Sun- day Call has established this page devoted entirely and ex- clusively to “What Women Want to Know,” edited by Madge Moore. Here every trial or tribula- tion of the mind and heart can be poured out in the full consciousness that it will re- ceive serious consideration —every question of fact or fietion, of the home and all its manifold ties and tasks, of the inner sanctuary of a woman’s life, finds ready so- lution. Ladies, this page is all vour very own. What would you? | Please address all commu- nications to Madge Moore, editor “What Women Want to Know,” Sunday Call, San Fraicisco. INCE women have taken to playing cards in the mornings, in the afternoons and in the evenings it has become a pos- itive necessity to take greater care of the hands and nalils than éver before. They are on parade, as it were, It makes no difference how daintily you may be frocked, how prettily your hair may be dressed or bow sweet and fresh you may look, if your hands are rough and the nalls JAID Gy IR FUN TSR WLSH not property cared for you most cer- tainly do not bear the stamp of a well groomed woman. The trick of caring for your hands is somewhat of a task unless you know just how to go about it and then it is too small a matter to be considered in the light of & bugbear. Of course, it is far easier to have some one do it for you, but if you want a new ribbon and have but thirty-five cents in your pocket, take the ribbon every time and be your own manicurist by way of variety. Get all your parapheérnalia out at once and place it where you can reach it easily and quickly. There should be a bowl of hot water, soap, a nall bleach, salve, polish, a soothing I>tion and some soft powder for the last fin- ishing touches. Rather a formidable array of jars and bottles, but as every one plays its ofn little part, all are really needed. Flle the nails into the required shape, and this, by the way, is a question that vou must settle for yourself. They may be either round or-pointed, but if you prefer round or pointed do not make the mistake of filing them noticeably so. File well down on either sideyin the hope of catching sight of the young hangnail that is thinking seriously of coming to the fore and then place your hand in soapy water and keep it there some five minutes or mere until the skin has softened up a bit. Don't clip the cuticle if you can help it, but press it gently back as far as it-will gorwithout hurting you. Try to show as much of the moon on the nail as is possible. All the small par- ticles of dead skin, however, should be cut oft with sharp scissors, and if the cuticle is unusually stubborn_ an orangewood stick inserted at ome side will raise it all about the nail and have the desired effect. There are very few, if any, nails that do not discolor and show dark spots. that are anything but pretty. but do not let this svorry vou, as it really is the least of §our troubles. Dip the orangewood in a colorless bleach that may be purchased at any drug: gist’s, and the unsightly little sopts wiil remove themselves immediately, without injuring the nail in the least. Unless you are very careful and your nails are in fairly good condi- tiori, ten to one they will grumble and growl a bit at your unwarranted in- terference. Then it is high time for your healing salve, and take good care to see that it reaches every nook and cranny, for it not only takes away all soreness, but removes any dark specks that may have got on the skin. If none of the family can be persuad- ed to come to your rescue, it is far better to work on one hand till it reaches this point and then begin on the other. To be sure your nails will be greasy, but the pot cannot very well call the kettle black, and you will not only save t'me, but really work more advantageously this way. When both hands have been duly doctored with the salve, dip your buf- fer into a pink powder and rub the nails vigorously, not with a bit of powder that needs a microscope to discover it, but with a good, gener- ous supply. Polish them until you can see a healthy shine under the mixture of salve and powder and then put your hands into some clean, warm water and scrub them well with a brush and soap. Not only your nails and the tips of your fingers, but. the knuckles as well, for it is astonish- ing the ammam of dust that can be ground In and not show so very much either. ‘When you have scrubbed them suffi- clently, put any soothing lotion on and rub it thoroughly Into the skin. _ make a rarely beautiful e ure, hosts of people use a li- quid gloss, but it gives a very high pol- Ish and makes the nails look a little too pink. Not only that, but it you make a rule of using it you will soon discover that the natural gloss of the nall will soon wear away and in order to keep your hands in any sort of pre- sentable shape you will find yoursel? in duty bound to use it, whether you want to or not. However, if you want to look espe- clally smart for some state occasion, put the polish on carefuliy. Don’t taks the brush out of the bottle and dab the liquid on any old way, but wipe the greater part of it off the brush and put it on the nail as evenly es you can, be- ing careful ngt%0 cover the moon. Be certain to make this distinction, for the gloss is pink and it makes the entire nail a solid color. This performance need not be gone through with more than once a week, but there are several little tricks that wil ‘do much toward keeping your hands in good condition. If you have no maid and play the maid of all work, get a large bottle of glycerine and bay rum, equal parts, and place it near the kitchen sink. When vou have fin- ished washing the dishes or rubbing out a few handkerchiefs, or any of the numerous little things that are al- ways coming to the hands of the housewife, put some of it on your palms. Don’t think it is necessary to stand ‘and rub the glycerine in until the hands are dry, for when one is busy that takes entirely too much time, but rub the hands together for a second or so and then wipe them on an old, soft towel that you can keep hanging in a convenient corner for this very purpose. : ’ And, by the way, iIf you will remem- ber one iittle trick every time you wash your hands, it will save you an end- less umount of trouble, Press the cuti- cle back from the nail as far as you can with the towel, and if you db this several times a day there certainly will be no excuse for its growing down and making vour finger ends look stumpy and short. Instead, if you take the trouble to follow out this simple pro- cedure your hands will look longer. your fingers will appear more slender and more taperipg and vou need not fcel ashamed to keep them plainly and frankly above board. o~ Answers to Correspondents ! ERLETERN * SUPERFLUOUS HAIR (Mrs. M. S.)— The only Wway to “successfully and permanently remove superfluous hair is by the electric needle in the hands of a skin specialist. Do not think of ®ttempting the work yourself, for you run the danger of disfiguring yourself perhaps beyond remedy. About twenty seconds is required to kill the hair fol- licle. after the injection of the electric needle. While the operation is rather painful as well as very tedious, forty or fifty halrs may be destroved at a sitting and without injury to the most delicate skin. Of course this treatment is only practicable when there is a growth of coarse irregular hairs on the face: the fine, thick growth on the arms cannot be removed by this meth- od, the hairs are too numerous. The application of a good caustic or depilatory in the form of a paste is the best thing to use for the growth on the srms: the first removal will not be permanent as the caustic rarely reaches to the roots of all of the of- fending hairs; after a time many will grow again and the treatment must be repeated. However, the depilatory affords relief and If persisted in will, in time, destroy the disfiguring hair permanently. A reliable depilatory is made of one part quicklime and two parts of sulphate of caleium. Re- duce the ingredients to a fine powder, mix, bottle and keep closely corked. When recuired for use mix a small quantity with enough water to form a thin paste. Apply a thin coating to the hairy skin and allow it to remain until the skin begins to prickle; then wash off immediately with warm water and soap. If left on too long it will blister the skin. Should the skin feel sensitive after the operation bathe with witch hazel to allay the irritatior. CENTERPIECES AND DINING TA- BLES (M. L.'D.)—Polished dining ta- bles are rarely covered between meals with a large spread. A newer idea is to use only a centerplece and, by way of further embellishment, place upon it a tall vase or rose bowl filled with cut lowers, a potted plant or silver dish filled with ferns. The size of the centerplece may vary from 24 to 60 inches in diameter, or even larger, ac- cording to the dimensions of the table and to individual taste. The most ele- gant centerpleces are of fine Renals- sance lace, square or round in shape, with rather small center of white linen and the lace edge richly embroidered in wash silk. To the novice it may seem very much like gilding gold to embroider lace, but it must be con- ceded that the lace and reflected lights of highly polished mahogany or oak background for the luxurious sprays of roses or fruit and follage designs which are showered upon it. Furtherm- -~ fash- fon and women of fastidious taste have set their seals of approval on this seeming extravagauce, hence it will “dering. continue in favor. The embroidery must be well done with filo floss and the colorings of nature as well as the shading closely followed, after padding the design heavily with white cotton floss. A less expensive design in dark effects is obtained with a centerplece of brown linen with an artistic con- ventional design richly tinted and em- broidered in heavy silks to correspond with the colors in the design. The edges may be completed with embroid- ery or a band of Russian lace, this be- ing the most elegant. Squares of fine Irieh linen beautifully enriched with drawn work and hemstitched borders are always In perfect taste. A really fine plece of linen is a good investment, “for with ordinary care it will last for years and improve with frequent laun- A clever needlewoman can readily make these articles during spare moments and save considerable expense. Square and rqund dining ta- bles are equally fashionable, although the housekeéper, ever on the alert for a change, is going back to the oval shape, slowly but sureiy. CARE OF THE TEETH (Four Plain Girls)—To lose the teeth by accident cr from uncontrollable natural causes is a misfortune, but to neglect sound or filled teeth is inexcusable. Health as well as good appearance depends so greatly upon sound teeth that it is strange one has the courage to negiect them even for a day. It Is true arti- ficial teeth are readily obtainable and 80 cunningly fashioned as to almost defy detection, but the real article Is surely to be preferred. No matter how plain a face may be it is redeemed by well-cared-for teeth, whiie a beautiful face loses its charm if the opened llps disclose poor or uncared-for teeth. While nature does not treat us all alike in the matter of good teeth we can preserve such as we have with the aid of powder, brush and dental floss, with the occasional assistance of the skilled dentist. A good brush is essential, one having moderately soft bristles being best. Stiff brushes ruin the teeth, loosen the filling and irritate the gums. Brush the teeth upon rising in the morning and before retiring and promptly re- move all traces of actd as well as swe:-as by rinsing the mouth with luke- wars water soon after eating such things. Pure lemon juice or any acid which sets the teeth on edge should be avoided. Do not pick the teeth; it is an unpleasant habit, to say the least. and may loosen the teeth. Remove any collections between the teeth with a piece of dental floss, slipped up and down without irritating the gums. For sensitive gums rinse the mouth several times daily with a good antiseptic. Listerine is excellent, using one tea- spoonful to a glass of water. A dainty, inexpensive tooth powder is made by mixing four ounces of’ precipitated chalk with one ounce each of pulverized orris root, borax and powdered myrrh. Sift through a pilece of fine cheese cioth or lawn and bottle. TREATING COLD HANDS (Mrs. S. L.)—Cold, moist hands are certainly an- noying, not to say embarrassing at times, but the remedy suggested will overcome the trouble in the majority of cases. This condition of the hands results from ._averal causes, the most common being general debility, nerv- ousness and impaired circulation. Are you quite sure that the armholes in your waists and other garments, espe- cially your coats, are sufficiently loose? Pressure at this point will alone fre- quently cause the annoying perspira- tion of which you complain. If satis- fied this is\ not at the bottom of the trouble, build up the system by a good tonic and nourishing foods. Follow the regular weekly baths with a tonic bath and a brisk rubdown. Put alcohol and cool water, equal parts, into a bowl and sponge the entire body quickly. An astringent~tonic solution should be applied to the hands, especially the palms and the under side of the fingers. Then dust with talcum powder and wipe away all superfluous particles. Dusting the inside of all kid gloves with talcum powder will also assist in preserving them from the effects of moisture until a cure is effected. An excellent astringent solution is made by steeping a large handful of white oak bark (obtainable at any drug store) in one quart of water for two or three hours. Strain the fluld, which should measure about one pint, and add one ounce of alcohol. Pour into a bottle having a sprinkle top and keep in a cool place. Moisten the hands with the solution several times each day and rub wvigorously into the palms. SOFA PILLOWS (Elizabeth) — Pil- lows intended for use In a reception hall and library should be dignified in character and of dark rich colors, har- monizing perfectly with the general decorations. Very delicate colors and frivolous designs are suitable only for the drawing-foom or boudoir. The ex- act selection,of fabrics for pillows must be determined upon according to the general style of the room furnishings. For example, if the library has leather- covered furniture, never put a pillow of ordinary silk ag: such a back- ground; for no mal how beautiful it may be In itself it will look skimpy and insignificant by strong contrast. Choose heavy upholstery, brocade or velour, preferably the latter, in dark, rich, self-figured patterns, and finish the edge simply, using a heavy silk cord to match or in harmonious com- bination of shades. Eegvy knots tied in the cord at the corner of the pillow give & more complete finish than when put on plain. If more elaboration s desired get the pillow cord having tas- seled ends. Knot at the three corners and tie the tasseled ends in a bow at the remaining corner. For variety a single pillow of burnt Jeather or one having an Indian head tinted in soft, lowing colors mdy be added. As so many pillows are desired for the hall divan, three or four may be n the main colors of the other decorations, either in self-figured brocade to match the hangings or a different shade to afford a pleasing contrast. Finish with full double ruffles of heavy satin or with.a cord. Handsome needlework is always de- sirable, and in this line choose pillows of heavy ecru linen, either plain or of the newer cross stitch canvas, and em- broider in a combination of artistigal- ly_blended colors, choosing a conven- tional floral or geometrical design and using very heavy silks. Complete with a full ruffle of wide noveity ribbom, which may be bought to match differ- ent schemes of color. COSTUMES AND ACCESSORIES (Betty)—It is unwise to spend the major part of the allowance for cloth- ing in costumes and attempt to ecomo- mize on the little things which add so much to one’'s gocd appearance. Im- maculate gloves and shoes and a be- coming hat will reclaim a dress which is not quite up to date, but the lack of the correct “little things” will spofl the effect of the most stylish costums ever made. Hats are a heavy item m the expense account at best and if economy must be practiced In this di- rection get a really handsome all-black hat for calling, theater, etc., in prefer- ence to several hats of doubtful quality to match as many costumes. A dressy shape of black beaver, velvet silk or novelty braid, with a long drooping plume or clusters of tips and a touch of jet or rich lace is suggested. Retrim the large hat of white mirror velvet, using cream silk fiber lace to cover the slight imperfections on the right stde of the frame. Recurl the white plumes and arrange on the left side with ends drooping over the halr. To give char- acter to the hat, which is now lacking, introduce a dash of black. An aigretta of black ostrich tips and paradise plumes will give a dainty completion at the base of the long ostrich plumes. Or a large rosette of black mirror vel- vet with a cabachon of pearl in the center may be substituted. Replace the red berries under the brim with a gen- erous cluster of velvet violets, shaded from delicate mauve to a deep purple; or use some of those delicate pink vel- vet roses which are a marvelous bit of art so wonderfully are the petals molded. The result will be a stunning fancy hat for evening wear. The new- est gloves are conspicuous in the very wide stitching, or, correctly speaking, embroidery on the backs, either in self color or in black. AROMATIC BATHS (Emily)—As a nerve soother there is nothing equal to an aromatic bath. Take 30 grams of pure alcohol and 2 grams each of essence of thyme and essence of ro- marin. Pour into the warm bath wa- ter and mix thoroughly. After the bath dry the skin thoroughly, but mot too briskly, so that the sedative effects of the bath may be retained. Retire to bed as soon after the bath as pos- sible, and you will sleep. FACIAL DEFORMITY IN EXPRES. BION (Babette)—An artist may catch the most remarkable facial expressions by simply studying the faces of those whom he meets on the street. Even the casual observer has noticed the most remarkable expressions which flit over the faces of those he meets, and without apparent cause. Ugly frowns, peculiar squinting of the eyes, twist- ing of the lips are some of the com- mon faclal deformities, and all of them leave their marks on the countemance. If one has a bad faclal expression do not hope to get rid of it by massage or any other treatment unless you are willing to break the bad habit. Find your weakness In this respect, using a hand mirror as an eye-opener; it will show you faclal faults of which your dearest friends would never remind you. Lest you forget, have. several mirrors hung at convenient places and seek to remedy the fauits; do this and good massage will, In time, remove the trouble. TO CLEAN WHITH VELVET (Helen)—It is almost Iimpossible to clean white velvet in a perfectly satis- factory manner. However, it may be greatly freshened by an application of chloroform. First brush and beat the velvet free of all dust. Pin the velvet out smoothly on an ironing board, or it | may be stretched in an embroidery’ hoop, and have plenty of clean white cloths at hand. Dip a cloth in chloro- form, rub lightly over the spot untll T 1 disappears, then, with a clean cloth, rub over the entire surface of the vel- vet to remove all soll on the nap. Do the work very rapidly and finish by rubbing with another clean white cloth. Haste is absolutely essential because of the volatile nature of the cleaning fluld and also to avoid a staln. PROTRUDING CORSETS (Mabel)— A corset which is too full over the hips and gored sharply at the waist line will protrude in front even on a slender form, unless held down very snugly by the garters. It will soon ruin the set of your dress, so better throw it aside and get a corset which will fit correctly.,