The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 17, 1904, Page 10

10 GLIMPSE ¢ OB ARTHD® I il | W 0 ) the queen of n butter color o rage for butter a4 butter color, & found in bright, cheerful summer cos- r ya wear a is cer- nd the lace the bright rich with but- which is called his is a sunburnt tone, a with great deal of red s 1 jeen of the May will gr e, for cham- rable this he lace will } he dyed laces are t ru b umes of the spring. lored batiste, and with a g through it The lace must te and the with the gne ¢ the bat the tan. lawn, tan y kind are slightly deeper h tan ribbons, ened once or ng than ta ill undoubted- uch influenced Its skirt will are made ront will be plenti- the skirt be not one y tr of the exaggerated 1 skirts then it w at least be g skirt, one of those great and it will be plentifully ar gorgeously trimmed around the foot How to Trim Your Skirt. It seems as ug day had quite gone by sk d be cut out, made uy d worn without extra thought and extra work. The skirts of to-day are much trim- med a w skirts that are ming at all. kirt trimming is rring. This is r to manage, but atience and plenty c al skirt is cut very wide ar fast to the belt before the shirrings are put in, 8o the dress- makers advi nd the great heavy rope shirrings are then let into the skirt. T s the utmost care not to T des o rope the lines of the gown. rings are put in on the groups of three or four, are set around the skirt, horizon- making e trimming. must be shirred sh oup order a very n to mat irt and the waist must be shirred e s menner. This, with the on of a little lace, really completes sche of the gown. The fancy for trimmings that run around the skirt is growing. The panel is too pretty to be lost entirely, it is a fact that the great majority gowns have trimmings that run und the sk Frequently the hori- zontal trimming is combined with the panel idea and with the very prettiest results If you are looking for new ways to make your summer gowns don't neglect the style which s for a straight front breadth. Th is made rather full, for the scanty front is mow out of date. Then, at each side of the front breadth the flounces begin. Three deep flounces go all the way around the skirt, with the exception of the panel- esque front breadth. And the skirt, which is very long end very full, lies in great trailing breadths upon the floor. Ideas for Your New Gown. There is no need of trying to make up your summer wardrobe all on the short skirted order. True, there will be trotting skirts and each woman will have from one to three or four of these, according to her trotting propensities. But they will be the useful skirts—the skirts for walking, the skirts for out of doors and the skirts for shopping. R (o BN But the summer gown, the summer gown proper, will have a very long skirt, so long that it has to be lifted in the front, and so long that i Is far in the back; and this is the s woman has doomed herself to wear. Many of the street skirts are abso- lutely unmanageable. But they will be worn more for piazza occasions and for semi-full dress than for actual pedes- trianism Calling skirts are of exaggerated length as are the skirts for receptions and for the hou Do not make the mistake, if you are buflding your own skirt, of making it walking length in front and trafling length in the back. On the contr 1 while long in the back, it is also v long in the front. This skirt must so lengthy that you can step on it and so very full that you actually must lift it a little in the front in order to move about. Dressmakers; both French and American, emphasize the importance of this, and they urge their patrons to bave the gowns cut at least three inches too iong in front. The back can be anywhere from six inches on the floor to a foot, or any length that fancy may dictate. “It is very trying upon a stout woman,” declared a fashionable dress- maker, “to have her gown so very long in front. She Is awkward as it {s and the long skirt embarrasses her. But, if the stout woman only knew it, the long skirt is her salvation, for it makes her taller and takes away a great deal of that dumpy look which is her herit- “The story of the very long skirt is an interesting one,” says this author- ity, “and a gossip could make a great deal out of it. Here is the tale as it e is told in London: “A certain very rich American woman living abroad went to her Paris dressmaker last fall and asked him to make her & becoming gown. The ‘Short Woman's Story. “‘1I look short in everything,’ said she, ‘and very stout. Make something which will become my style well." y DK Vo g THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. AIIEAD AT THEMAY DAY GOWNS oy /,, STRAW < OLORED LINEN B TIoTE oW N8 Eo NS The skirt, 1t was full, was fitted around the and the fullness all came in down below. The result was charming. Anierican_woman, when she delighted. ‘Make me several dresses just like this ome’' said she, ‘and let thamhcmwclgmmgthm “The man dressmaker thought and this. thought and finally he achieved a gown which, when put on, answered the pur- pose admirably. It lengthened the woman and made her look more slen- der. This gown, which was made of taffeta, Was nearly four inches upon the floor in front. The.back fell away in a very long and very graceful Hne. “The gown which she will wear at Queen Ale ’'s drawing-room is to be bullt of peau de cygne In deep wviolet, trimmed with white *lace, in which there are threads of black. “And this,” said the gossipy dress- maker, “is the story of the evolution of the very long skirt. It was all due 4% ¥ % C'%ING N THE VP RR ARM to the vanity of an American woman abroad, who desired to look slimmer and taller than she really was.” ‘While on the subject of skirts it may be mentioned that skirts are made rather snug around the hips for those who cannot wear them any other way, and are lengthened by a very deep flounce of Spanish cut, deeper in the back than in the front. This flounce may be made of and fitted to a of plain mous- Another way to build a skirt is to make it with four puff shirrings run- ning around it. The skirt is finished with a very deep flounce, which is as and trimmed with 1t s just the year for the old-fash- joned dressmaker to practice her old arts, for it is a year which will bring out the old trimmings.. The old-fash- joned dressmaker who can make an old-fashioned shirred flounce. with an d mousseline S old-fashioned puft heading, wil be in demand, and if she can set it around the skirt so that it will lle upon the ground three inches in front and six Inches in the back, all graduated nicely In depth, then indeed ghe is a treasure and will win rewards, not only for her- self in the shape of shekels, but for her patrons in the form of nice dress- Ing. But there are many novelties of spring and early summer, so many that one pauses before them in admiration, If not in amazement. The styles have shanged materially and there is no such thing as dullness in Dame Fashion's world. One of the pretty fads of fashion is the flat chou of ribbon with a paste buckle in the middle of it. Another fad is the windmill bow, with a fancy rhinestone button sewed in the middle. Still another fancy is a metal button, with a little frill of lace set around it. And thére is also a ribbon chou, which has wings like butterfly wings, with a long, slender pin fastened in the middle to represent the body of the butterfly. The, covering of button molds may make a very fascinating and wholly useful pastime for the woman who is ingenious. Button molds are covered with Japanese silk and are then %ouched up with water colors. Water @olor designs are seen upon many of them to make the colors more vivid. Button moids are covered with velvet and these are set In the center of lace knots with lace tabs hanging from the lace knot. And there are molds that are covered with bright silk, with lace sewed over the silk. These all-lace buttons are really very dressy and can be worn upon the nicest gowns. If the lace is laid over washable silk, or over lawn, the buttons can be used upen washable lawn dresses. Ornaments for Gowns. The washable lawn and the washable muslin is almost a thing of the past. Each season it goes further and fur- ther into the background and this sea- eon it is quite impossible to conceive a laundress who can wash the shirred skirts or who can so tub the gathered waists that they will come out wear- able. The remedy is not to be found, except in the careful wearing of these gowns and their preservation when not in use. Lovely ornaments are to be worn this spring, made of cotton. There are hanging balls and cotton loopings and all sorts of cotton braldings. These braids are put on by hand in the old- tashioned way, in little twirls, just as one braided one's gowns years ago. The, narrow white and colored braids are used and the designs are distribut- ed over-skirt panels, over yokes and over the caps and the cuffs of sleeves. A very neat little ornament was made for a pretty cotton figured dress. The material showed pink figures upon a ground of cream. Little circles of the goods were cut out and braided in wlhiite. They were then'edged with lace and applied to the gown, making a very nice trimming. As this is a season of ornaments one must not forget the little rosettes of lawn and of linen which are so plenti- fully used to trim the summer dresses. These are made of long strips of linen, doubled and shirred. The spring is pulled up until a rosette is formed. BEvery woman knows how to make these rosettes. They are used in place of ribbon choux for trimming wash dresses. They are placed upon the cuffs, upon the belt, the stock and upon the yoke. The size varies the from button *The variety is endless. A STOLES o rosette for the srock to the rosette as big as a saucer, which is placed upon the side breadth of the skirt. This is vastly cheaper and much more dur- able than ribbon. The Bands of Canvas. Another ornament that must © a moment be forgotten is the embroid- ered band. - The bands of canvas e broidered in flowers, or in a vin a Roman pattern, cannot be counted. These bands t for are used for belts, for c the orthodox waist trimmi They are in cross stitch, in key stitch, mn embroidery stitch and in Kensington. The colors are many. One of the prettiest set of bands is maéde upon a foundation of heavy n in cream color. The pattern is a Jap- anese one apd the bands are sufficient for stock, cuffs, and for the trimming of vest and skirt. A trimming that is to be much seen is the trimming which consists ot bands of material. These stitched bands are employed upon skirts mwQ waists and are finished with a fancy button, or with a deep fall of lace. The plain stitched band, finished with a deep fall of lace, is a feature of the spring sleeve; and some of the most charming sleeves are finished with the wide stitched band below ‘which falls a frill of lace at least three fingers wide. This lace is beautifully done in colors—that is, the pattern is picked out with embroidery stitched in many tones. Lace is a thing which has undergone a complete change. From being a deli- cate fabric, closely comnected with heéavy expense, the laces of to-day are made of many different threads, coarse as well a¢ fine, wood fiber as well as thread, and are turned out in all sorts of shapes from the great piece of lace which is one of the features of modern dressmaking to the deep points of lace which are to be used for flouncings. Among the new sleeves can be count- ed at least half a dozen that are very aistinctive in style. There is the® sleeve which is shaped like a crook neck squash. It is long and tapering until it reaches the main portion, where it widens out into a deep shape. This kind of sleeve is now made all a mass of tucks. At the wrist it is side plaited into a wide band of goods, which is covered with a cuff of lace, which is finished with a big chou of ribbon, or a rosette of cloth. The Lovely Sleeve Fashion. Then there is the delightful old sleeve which is shirred very full into the armhole. It falls limp and baggy to the ‘wrist, where it is trimmed with n@ less than six ruffles, each one bordered with narrow lace. These ruffles reach al- most to the elbow and the effect is decidedly quaint. The umbrella sleeve is lovely and is best described by its'name. If it could be “lifted” it would form a very n parasol cover. As it is it is gathered into the armhole and falls in many points around the hand. Underneath there is.a lingerie cuff over which the § points make a very nice trimming. There is the bag sleeve, which is very much liked and which can be employed upon many gowns. It is suitable for all materials from sprigged lawn to broadcloth. This sleeve has its fullest part underneath. It is gathered into a band of embroidery just below the elbow. And, from this band of em- broidery, there falls a flounce of the dress gogds, arranged in such a way as to cover the knuckles. These long sleeve flouncings, or ruf- fles, would not be novel were it not that they are made of the same mate- rial as the dress. A gown of chiffon broadcloth in a shade of leaf green had a deep broadcloth ruffle around the hand with a heavy bralded trimming upon the ruffle. The cape sleeve is one that is also worn. This is gathered into the arm- hole and falls mostly at the back. THhere is an underneath sleeve of thin- ner stuff. This sleeve is designed for piazza gowns