The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 27, 1904, Page 11

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ¥ 2] %—h—_———_*m completion from the branch and the g~————————————————————— The skirt is plain, but the coat is very THE CHERR) BLOSSOo™M GOoOw By Augusta Prescott. when biack appropriate is the ch one’s ad and t be w it tate cherry blossom up a lovely silk upon a chair, g touches. “It is in a pale shade of azza and promenade eant to wash. le gown, judging by the s order, is certainly the f this year,” said she, ased facilities for 1 gowns can be put without destroying particular washes ay one in like a raz. The skirt is cut with nine gores, and it is fade the fashionable length, which is uery long all the way around, front as well as back. To fit the skirt the woman who is to wear it stood upon a thick book. The skirt was then turned up just even with the floor in the front and long enough to trall in the back. This is the best way to get the mew and very fashionable length. Flnishing the Skirt. “The skirt, as you see, 18 then trim- med with little hanging white cro- cheted drops which were sewed on a few inches apart. These are cotton drops very washable and not very ex- b ve. Aroumd each ‘drop’ a littls of French knots, all in green, are 1broidered. “The waist is a lattice in linen, tan lace, ribbon and French knots. And that is the way one of the prettiest cherry blossom gowns of the year is built.” And the modiste patted the gown with satisfied fingers. All the blossom colors will be seen this spring, and as soon as the piazza days come the vista wili be gay with rose pink, syringa white, light ‘green, blessom yellow, budding green, as the pale green of the first buds is called, and ali the soft shades of pink, red, yellow and waxy white. With these soft shades other shades just as soft are combined, and it will be a year when the delicate tones are mingled to the exclusion of the more vigorous shades. Yet, if carefully plan- ned, the pale toned gowns are not with- out character, for a very little black or a little dark brown can be used to set off the gown and give it the dash which is called chic. The French dressmakers make a spe- cialty of the gowns which are trimmed with a little black. They use black on all occasions and upen all gowns, and Do matter how delicate the material may be there is a bow of black upon it, a piping of black silk, a little black THE HANGANG, SLEEVE o , THE NEwEST SPRING oW Rose. CSOoOvoRED WA s T 'y belt, very narrow, or a stock which is latticed in black. The approved French piazza gown has a crush of black chiffon velvet around the waist, a touch of black vel- vet in the stock and a few French knots. Dashes of black embroidery are Seen upon most of the gowns, and it is quite the thing to line the sleeves with long black chiffon ruchings to fall down over the hand, Summer Girdles and Stocks. A much approved girdle is very wide and made of black velvet or black * suede. It is slit on each side and is be caught in a round glossy buckle of Jet. P A new stock shows a band of black velvet ribbon bordered with a wide border of linen to match the gown. Over the black velvet there is turned a little lace collar. Another up-to-date stock for a sum- mer is In linen with a turnover of linem with black fisures embroidered upon it. And still another is in silk with:a vine of black tracery running around it with the French knots thrown CINEN e LAT ' CED - SR eEEN = BBRoN AnD N LAacE, bud and the tiny green leaves to the full ripe red cherries. Another pattern is a very faint green gown, with a rose bush upon it, with roses In the bud and roses in full bloom. This sort of a bush in minla- ture looks very pretty, indeed, made up into & full summer suit of the order known as a shirt walst suit. They are making up a great many shirt waist suits of figured and sprigged materials. Some of these are perfectly delightful in their material and coloring. Sprigged and flowered lawns, crisp and glossy, are made up with the very thin washable silks and are worn over interlinings of varibus colors. Batistes, partly lace, with a #flk stripe running through and with a floral pattern upon the background, are charming for the making of whale suits of shirt waist design. The New Summer Blouses. The best shirt waist sults of this year will have the long skirt, with many gores and the round or blouse waist. The back of the walst will be tight fitting, but the front will blouse well over the belt and the blouse.part ‘will be full, though not baggy. The new blouse walst patterns show waists that do not blouse to a point, but are rather wide in front, with the blouse part setting out stiffly, instead of hanging down over the belt. This stiffn is preserved by interlinings and by the material, which is crisp and holds its own well. ‘The linen shirt waist suits have the simulated plaits in fropt and are but- toned frankly down the front with dec- orative buttons. They are sometimes laid in tiny tucks acress the yoke, with the tucks released below. These tucked yokes will be a great deal worn. They are easy to make, easy to manage and easy to wash and irom, which three recommendations are enough for all practical purposes. The new summer sleeves are so wide as to require half a yard more of goods. A shirt waist pattern of four vards is hardly enough now for the fyll sleeves that are the vogue and half a yard more is needed for the voluminous sleeves, which are very large, very baggy and hang down in the most elaborate manner. The down-hanging part of the sleeve s by no means soft and slinky, but is interlined and is stiffened and is some- times padded to make it set out well. There is a2 new way to make the sleeve keep its stiffness below the el- bow, and this is by the wearing of an underwaist. The low necked and long sleeved underwaists are lovely. They are made very much on the shirt waist pattern, with blouse fromt and snug back. Then therg are the sleeves of underwaists, which are tight above the elbow but very full below, with a puff at the wrist. This acts not only as a lining, but as a stiffening for the gown. The Lattice Waist. A fashion that will be much seen this summer is the lattice style. Rib- bon and silk are latticed, and also rib- bon and lace. A pretty blouse is made of lace. And upon this lace there is a lattice of ribbon about three inches square. At each intersection there hangs a crocheted ball. The sleeves and the skirt are trimmed with the banging balls. The shirt waist suit of ergandie, Rose colored linen with | green trimmings and tan lace makes a | cherry blossom girl— | The coming summer will be the most deeo- rative in the history | of woman's dress— ' Cheap but pretty imi- | tations of very expen- i ~ sive gowns and how to make a linen coat to~ wear with a shirt | waist suit—The latest himts in the small things of dress. | | | | L with a fine shirring and is very full indeed. To make this shirring very ef- fective a deep hem is somet?mes made in the top and a shirr string Is run through. Another shirring is placed below the top ome, and In this manner a deep heading is formed, wh e flounce is very full below it. [ The plainer suits, the linens, the can- vases and the other substantial goods, are made with a many gored skirt, plain and finished with a deep hem. The skirt is well shaped, and there is the inevitable flare around the foot, with- out which no skirt is complete. Other skirts are trimmed with bias bands of the mate . and still others are trimmed with stitched strappings of the goods, while others are trimmed with latticed bands. There are hand- some linen skirts that are decorated with stitched panels, with yokes out- lined with strappings and with a deep flounce-like piece, with a stitched band at the top. Quite a large percentage of the linen suits show inlets of heavy lace, with delicate wash embroidery outlining the lace. The number of linen gowns trimmed with lace is constantly on the increase, and the tri and neat linen gown which was so necessary a feature of the wardrobe threatens to disappear utterly. Yet there are those who like the per- fectly plain tailored linens and the se- vere ginghams, and for those who enjoy wearing these su er suits there are a. number of Iimeng:gmh styles which will catch the eye. The Three-Quarter Linen Coat. A very neat tailored suit of Scotch gingham was made in two colors, and there are many linen suits made of two shades of linen. The pipings, the strap- pings and the small trimmings of the £uit are of a shade of linen to contrast with the main part. The linen coat has come in with the” summer wardrobe. This coat is cut straight and is trimmed with lace. It is made with wide sleeves and there is some fullness across the back. A coat of linen is washable and should be trimmed with linen lace. But aside from the material there is nothing or- dinary about the coat, for it is cut on the smart of summer models. A very knowing little coat of blue linen is cut long, almest to the knees. It has the exaggerated sleeves of an opera coat and the sleeves are trimmed with very wide lace. The collar is a equare sailor collar, also trimmed with lace, and there is abundant lace upon the front of the coat The fashion of making up a three- quarter or a half length coat of ma- terial to match the gown is a gro = one, and more than hailf of the summer suits will be fitted out in this way. The fashion is one that is simple to make, for it requires very little fitting and the only cost is the price of the material, which, in the case of linen or canvas or any of the heavy materials, is not great. The requirement of a three-quarter coat is that it shall fit across the shoulders, shall have very wide sleeves and that the sléeves shall be finished in some handsome manner, perhaps with a wide puff caught into a narrow cuft, below which falls a very wide cur- tain of lace. Another way to finish a coat sleeve is with what is called a cornucopia, which is bordered with lace and Is lined with lace frills. These can be bullt of very coarse lace or of lace of very tough weave, so that they are ‘washable. The Two-Piece Shirt Waist Suits. A direct outcome of the fancy for the three-quarter linex coat Is the twoe elaborately trimmed. And there are automebile shirt waist suits. These consist of a linen skirt, beautifully shaped and of walking length. The skirt s trimmed with strapped and stitched bands. With this skirt there is an automobile coat of the same material, usually of linen, with strappings and with wide sleeves. The sleeves and collar are more elaborately trimmed than is customary with auto- mobile coats, for they are bordered with wide lace and are trimmed with neat, compact trimmings, such as hard French knots, buttons, wheel stitch em- broidery and braid. Then, fn the list of summer suits, there must not be forgotten the golf shirt waist suit for amateur: This is made with a well-shaped Instep skirt, usually devefd of trimming at all, un- 1688 Oone except a very slender piping. The coat is short and straight, a little English o trimmed with stitched bands. There are conspicuous pearl buttons upon It and it buttons to the throat. And still another variety of shirt waist suit is the Russian blouse sujt, which is a e suit and, like many oth res a shirt waist In addition The Russian blouse sh! waist suit is made with an instep skirt, with a Russian blouse walg which is buttoned down the ont can be taken off, and with a shirt waist. The blouse part s slipped off like a ccat and for summerings s carried over the arm And, in ist of summer suits, one not forget the Eton shirt walst h consists of a sk apd an The Eton is b of ltnen ton stuff and is waist, which pretty material and color, usually white, for womanl runs to white this year. The Linen Stoles and Collars. Very important in the list of summer fashions are the linen stoles and the linen collars, for these worn. over the shirt waists and take the place of the v fancy shirt waist to a great extent. Wide oliars, as deep as the sh rs, ettes that are rounding and made like capes are worn. Th are cut upom the most approved models and are charm-~ ing with sum suits. The stoles are also handsome and dressy anc ake a stole of the dress material is little work or extra expense. The prettiest of these stoles are in the shape of round collars, with long ends attached in front, and are to be thrown around the neck and caught under the chin with a set of cords and tassels. The wide silk collars, adjustable and made k and lace, will be worn with the summer suits and some of them are exceedingly decorativea They are made after different patterns and all of them impart quite a dressy air te any gown. One of the prettiest of sillc collars i» cut with Gibson shoulders. It is very ends ¢ on the shoulders and ex~ er the arm hole, stand- | te. This style of collar, the Gibson collar, is cut round and is as deep in the back as in front. It ade of silk and sur~ nded by sti ry and embroidery. is also inset. The edge of this collar is cut In scroll shape and fin- ished with a stiff lace, so stiff as to be almost wiry. One of the distinguishing features of this new Gibsonian silk shoulderetts is its stiffness. The silk does mnot le around the neck and shoulders in soft, slinky fashion, t sets out very smarte ly. To make it still stiffer it Is eme broidered with a very heavy embroid- ery and tri ed with a lace that is wiry in ure. There a very stiff lace, whicle Is stiffened by special process before it is made into Eton jackets. These little jackets, which look as though they were made of horsehair, are cut very short between the shoulders. There are arm holes and the front of the jacket is left oven. The whole thing could be rolled and slipped into a napkin ring. Silk flowers are sometimes inset.. This jacket trims up an old silk waist or & shabby lawn waist most admirably. The vast majority of summer skirts are full skirts. They are made with shirred vokes and with shirred hips. These shirrings can be so arranged as to trim the skirt, for if full and hand- somely tréated they form in themselves a trimming for the skirt. Three shir- rings. each as heavy as rope, trimmed the yoke of a pretty piazza gown made of linen batiste. The soft blossom colors are selected for the dalntiest of piazza gowns, and ameng the blossgm calors ths dzep rose —_—