The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 13, 1904, Page 10

{HE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. WivE LEEVE WItH BLND QF ZACE IRSERITON AND BFROQADCZOIH CUFE o — PO A New Use for the Gar- land of Roses and an At- tractive Setting for the ~trings of Beads Which \re a Part of Every Nice Costume—Fashion Lead- rs Wear Lace Flounces on and Bodices, nd They Are Trimming Pheir Sleeves 8o as to Use I'p All the Odds ana Ends Wide Lace — Color nations That Are sting Dame Fash- 1 in Her Latest Friv- Skirts . + By Angusta Prescott. Petersburg revived an vas a spark- of silver wmed with silv: nd, all made vered rose leaves, e t the side of the skirt the front breadth counting the which not wound red with sil- the b lle at th e for French g t was a French same belle who wore Nevsky promenade in = g of erimson vel- T hed. The g ted of braid sewed will Crushed velvet hts and makes « It can be f well made never- a very nice vel- which you and wet it side. Now wring- night all ay you will have This is the best way amateur to make it The Flounced Skirts. ke right the hands elvet the ing novelties there must ned the flounced skirts, which are trimmed with from ome to three e flounces around the foot. The bot- upon the floor way the second f up to the knees, d if there is a third flounce it is as omes h high as knees. Over this falls the skirt proper, looking like a semi-skirt r overskirt A great change is taking place jn dress skirts, and it takes an artistic dressmaker to cut and hang them. As ne woman expressed it My skirts re very wifle on the fioor and very s at the hips. Yet I can scarcely tell what makes them so0.” As a mat- ter of fact, the skirts are cut wide all the v from the belt to the floor, but they are tucked and shirred around the hips to make them set close. Meny of the new skirts are made in -many gores and are laid in Inverted plaits all around the belt. This gives the skirt a full look without adding to the size of the hips. Again, a skirt is gathered or is laid in accordion plaited folds around the belt, while the foot is immensely fuil. Though skirts are very full, there are no short women, for every effort is being made to preserve the height. Slenderness and tallness are the two qualities most earnestly desired by wo- and all the lines of the skirt are drawn with a special eye to height and glenderness. Thus if you will study the new gowns you will observe that the skirts, though full, are by no means dumpy in ap- pearance, and you will also see that the lines are long and flowing, rather than of the cutoff order. A gown, made for a woman who has men, -~ THOTLIER CAPE OF BROADZODY. - - — a rew gown made for was ‘in champagge-colored The front of the skirt was plain, displaying a very long, front breadth. Unon the hips at the skirt was laid in little grouns of gath ers which extended all across the back This gave the figure a long, sgraceful ikng perfectly wide set of lines. Around the bottom of the skirt there were two flounces, each one with a shirred heading. Th ring consisted of several row fat puffs in between and cordings laid in the puffs A Spring of Noveltics. There has probably never been a spring in which €0 many novelties vere introduced. Ome of the quaintest yet most effective is the fancy for bead- ing the front breadth of the dres: in fancy designs. A gown of biscuit- colored cloth has a queer-shaped figure beaded upon it “just below the helt and extending south,” as the seam- stress expressed it. The pattern was a big beaded point. The gown, which was a very nicely tailored one—a little too fine for pedes- trian wear and intended really for call- ing, was banded and piped with tur- quoise blue. The ist, which was cut on the shirt-waist order, bloused and belted under a girdle, had a vest of colored beads. These were very fine and very glossy leoking, almost like jewels. The effect was opalescent and alluring, and certainly very deceptive from a stand- point of cost, for no nice trimming could have beenless expensive. Bead- ing a pattern in little colored beads apon a cloth skirt is nice work for the artistic dressmaker. Garlands of silk flowers and of met- allic ones and garlands of natural blossoms will be worn for evening and for ceremonious dinners, and in ar- ranging these the woman who wants to introduce novelty must trim her skirt ‘with a garland laid in slanting fashion across the front breadth. She must also trim her bodice and she must twine a garland in her back hair. The banding of the hair with gar- lands needs a chapter all to itself. The hair, which is twisted in a long, low figure eight, is twined with sprays of flowers, which are pinned o it with invisible pins. One long spray can be wound in and out through the hair or a little wreath can be laid on top of the coiffure. Never were gar- lands more fashionable for hair dress- ing that at just the present time. ws o — It ie delightful to study the spring. styles as they appear, for each new gown has its own particular feature, One lovely dress for street. wear has sleeves cut off at the elb Below the elbow there was a de lace ruf- fie, arranged so as to eover the arm, and round the edge of the rufile there was run a velvet ribbon, which was tied loosely at the wrist. Of course another ruffle of lace fell over the first one, for ruffles of lace do not travel alone. % ; For evening wear the lace ruffie is almost an essential of dress. A very deep lace flounce, with a chiffon head- ing, is worn around the neck of a low corsage and the sleeves consist entire- ly of lace flounces, shirred to a very short sleeve and falling over the el- bow and arm. The skirt may or need not have its lace ruffies, but the waist is made dressy by from one to three arranged across the yoke as circum- stances and the gown will permit. Dame Fashion’s Novelties. In the spring novelties there is a crushed velvet girdle buttoned with turquoise buttons, which are placed right in the middle of the front. At the back there are tabs buttoned to the girdle with turquoise. There are shirt waists of pale blue lawn with yokes of tan lace. Also shirt waists of pink flowered goods with deep white lace collars with stoles of lace hanging down the front. These are particularly lovely. One of the daintiest of useful oddi- ties is a wide belt of silver ribbon. The belt is fastened in the middle of the front with a buckle of green gold and in the buckle there are set large green stones of sefi-precious value. At the back there is a long green slide. A tall slender girl wore a spring odd- ity in the belt line consisting of a belt of silvered ribbon, embroidered in long silver stitches, the pattern being that ¥ £ W EE s R sl A SFRING GOWN QI TOSE GREFN L 0TY WZIH ETON JRCIELT AND LR VEST of white daisies ground. Again in the belt line there was no: ticed a girdle made almost entirely of wheel rosettes of lace upon a white satin ribbon, the whole rastened in the back under a large wheel of lace ‘and in the front under a buckle of sil- ver. This is lovely for the slender girl. A most delightfully refreshing depar- ture in the shirt waist line. was no- ticed In the case of a white linen shirt waist, which was made In London fash- icn, tatlored and smart looking. Ifs trimmings consisted of stitched straps of white linen and it was buttoned down the right side with big white pearl buttons., This walst, which was all white, was as dressy as it could be, and exactly the waist for the young woman who affects severe styles. A spring costume of tam colored broadcloth of light weight is made ex- ceedingly smart by the addition of a belt of coral suede with a big gold buckle set with rhinestones. The stock is made of coral colored panne, with rhinestone ornaments, and there are large buttons covered with coral suede. Of course the young woman for whom this suit is built will carry a coral red silkfumbrella with handle of gold. Her hat will have a crown of coral velvet geraniums. .One of the cleverest of novelties con- sists of “a butterfly of heroic size, the upon silvered worked out in natural colors in silk, upon a background of net lace. This is lined with chiffon and the whole is, set upon the vest of a handsome tan col- ored cloth gown. What the Belic Will Wear. The belle of the scasqn will dress in custard color. Her pniazza gown. the one she wears on fine davs, will be a custard -lawn, embroldered in colors Upon one side there will be embroidered a garland of roses, and the corsage will bg gay with them. She will combine black and gold with her custard colored gown, and her effect will be something entirely gorgeous. Custard yellow and gold, carrled out in modest materials, make an exceed- ingly elegant combination and can be recommended to the woman who wants one very nice dress at a very moderate cost. A woman who is to attend an Easter wedding, and who must wear a hand- some gown, has purchésed enough cus- tard colored peau de cynge for a full cgstume. Her stock will be cof black velvet, edged with gold braid, and her wide girdle will be of black velvet laid in falds and stretched out very deep, front and back. Gold slides will orna- ment it and there will be a big gold buckle in the front. Her jewelry will be heavy gold and she will carry a large black fan. A novelty which can be rated among the surprises of the season will-be the deep gauntlet cuffs, which can be found now as deep as the elbow. Over these gauntlets the upper sleeve falls very full. The shoulder is'tucked and trim- med. A great many sleeves have the deep, very tight gauntlet, made of silk and lace. Abogve the gauntlet comes the full puff, and then there is the tucked shoulder. The shoulder, besides being tucked, is piped with colored silks. This is a simple style for the woman of the season to copy and one that can be BACK QF MOSS GREFN SOUPIMER, GOWN SHEWING THF, CURTOUS - POSTIZLION THES —_—— o —-_— very highly recommended for her spring and summer gcwns. - This style will hold its own all the season and it is a style that is becoming to eve hend and arm. 8 While mentioning the new of the seasom, the round nec features and the full sieeve musgt not bs forgotten. A great many necls are cut without the collar and the neck is fini with ruching.; This is all ni the woman with a pretty throat, but a little irying for the woman with a thin neck. The fuil wi sl from the arm, is also a little h wpon the woman withe an attra ive hand and wrist. t new ves have so many ruchings didly full and so at- nished that they divert the cover the arm pretty well m a sort of dressing of their own, so the thin armed woman can take comfort. Lace and Ruchings. One of the greatest departures of dame fashion is the step she has tak- en into the realm of ruchings. These are employed at the neck and wrist and are much used in places of little turnover bands, which have so long held first place. Not that the little turnovers have gone out of style, but they are not quite new to the eye of the fashion- able woman as the little chiffon ruch- ing. This, whether made of chiffon, or maline, or lace, or of pet, is sewed around the stock so as to make a tiny white rim and is alse sewed in at the Th tiny little white box plaited ruching looks quite quaint at first, for it has been so many years since it was worn, but, on second glance, one sees how very becoming it is to the com- plexion, and its way into favor is as- sured. Ruchings of all kinds are, in again and the cleverest things are one with them. Ruchings of black #hiffon are used upon shirt waists to make or to outline a yoke trimming and they are used upon skirts to head the flounces. A French dressmaker, with a little box-plaited ruching of white net, pro- ceeded to make a clever design upon a shirt waist which was in white lace. She outlined a scroll and worked a pretty figure in the middle of the scroll, using white lace stitches for the needlework. A very clever novelty was intro- ULEEVE THE WING e - — duced upon a spring gown of golden brawn crepe de chine, one of the neat- est gowns of the season. The skirt, which was ome of very full new skirts rathen close in t but fulf ubon the sides and back, was trimmed with golden the the pey in th brown ribbon, which was put on side in Greek key design. The waist had a conventional pattern outlined in ribben. Wonderfyl New Embroideries. Another cloth gown was trimmed with lovers’ knots in ribbon applisd to the waist and skirt, the one upon the irt being very large and placed at the side of the skirt. The cuffs and the knot design and the stock showed a knot with trailing ends. The fane itchings have ans lost ir vogue and the pretty and every adaptable thorn stitch is used to outline other trimmings. Suits of velvet are stitched with cat stitch and the canvas suitings are tri med with bands of cross stitch in Bo- hemian, Armenian and Roumanian embroidery. These embroideries dif fer so little that it requires a native to tell which is which. The shaded embroidery silke are coming in agzain, and this makes the pattern bear an opalescent hue colors blend one into another, k ing all t gloss and producing the me isite effec This of embroidery is y ularly io and it offers a nice field woman who has time and a upon her har She cs hange suit from a very plain one int thing that ghly favored by sort for the gown the fash- vercly plain rd to d. Inm of the tail vith its ¢ its stole fronts. One sees stitched full 1 very h the and unce deen. a tailoréd with nd its strappe ilored gowr of Oriental finish aborate and its cuffs, 'd lace and tri Kl elbow ¢ shoulder. robbed remains o the sev except the strap- nish which char- is making his round and very give new tully Summertime. Velvet for The very round, very full skirts must be cut long: they must be cut slightly trained in the back and a little longer than the ground on the front and the The rt must also be ar- ts folds, so that there is appearance with the lines vhila flounce sides full s ranged as to nding down from the belt, t foot there is a full nd finish the skirt hat queen of the winter, 4 now he fashions in their spring- time. A thin velvet suit can ommended a general utility gown, for it mak handsome carriage or prome: is fine 1 a visiting gown; it is quite ceremoni- ous enough for receptions. And, for a gown have in the wardrobe, it be highly recommended to every woman who desires to nice dress all the season. there is this about velvet that it never goes out of style and the velvet gown of this year can be made over into a velvet shirt waist and separate skirt next year, while in the se: ns that follow it can be converted into an Eton or a bolero or into trimmings galore. Velveteen has come into high vogue lately. No one supposed that it would ever be so popular for the making of nice gowns. It was once worn sur- reptitiously as an imitation velvet, but it now comes out frankly as velveteen. It is fine and soft, comes in many shades and is quite desirable for ge eral occasions. In moleskin color trimmed with taffeta, it is charming for spring wear. The new hats are remarkable for their becoming features. They are not too severe; they do not set too far back on the head; they are not too flat and they are not too tilted. Taking one feature with another, the hat of spring will be the most becoming hat that has been seen for many a year. There are buttons of silver, very bril- lfant, and there are buttons of jet, all of which are used for studding the crown of the hat. It is not too early to look ahead at spring fabrics, for the counters are filled with sprigged goods. One of the loveliest shows a thin black ground upon which sprays of roses are care- lcssly thrown. This should be made up with pink taffeta. But the sum- mer time is quite 2 way off and mean- while the woman with a little leisure €an get out to the shops and see for herself the glories which the mer- chant has spread out for her. be rec- ) ess: it ver: r can be sure of one Moreover,