The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 28, 1904, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. i " Frrorco PHOTOS BY " STANFORE . - but p there is h annoying in- cles are an r they out- per ones and look far bet- others ng ar nct kinds, endiess variation skirt trunk, steamer, i the ¢ one that nd the other necessa rdinary And each and every peculia a week one its own, sto the country er than the tray hing n there are vari- m be filled and es and walists he tray serves beautifully for a dinner frock. This leaves the hatbox and plenty of space for the thousand and ne that accessories Ehe women always vet your ir rvous fear you are con 2ting taking your residence with permanently and furthermore it can be handled eas- ich is a big con es, Beside: h should ap- ccount « at 2 le spa or bet- pushed under the f entirely trunk is a perfect can be made to serve square little affair es and fluffy ide ,m’. one of five pac purpose of fitting made for the hats into. are of stiff canvas buckle may rly always ap or the they and either into be the space plac removed ) as ma n as you used for Yer want and packing other articles of apparel hat with precious plume is held intact and jour- neys to its destination in perfect safety. What a relief these little trunks are. at the same time the sember without h of packing a hat. Every trying the struggl was eternally way one ‘can It and forever too large one and quite too small the other. It never falled to poke out just where it shouldn’t and was the bane of every woman's existence. After twisting this way and turning that way, she finally wound up by taking all the trimming off and trusting to luck to get it again any old way or eclse she crammed it into a box and carried it along for the portets to fall over and the people generally to sigh and gnash their teeth on ks be those days are well over and the woman that boards a train with ten small bundles that fly in as many directions is as rare as a green rose. Instead miladi, in a trig trotter and a natty hat, armed with a leather s caze, steps into the car and by amuses watching others rather than in counting and keeping track of her own pos: ons. Wait until she opens that case for some trifie, a wonder. Strapped firmly to the cover is a leather stand ar- in that contains all the varlous toilet They fit so snugly ticles in ebony. the dame of sorts and many here is the pleasant hauteur, in- tra refinement, social 1 the advantages that come » b unassailable nd an as aiways enjoved the & t t world good is 1 from the wo- social distinction. the purple, who has - hing life at its who able to meet calm dignity of ated by homage not the accept- t is acquired and r less offensive, but it is 4 dignity that comes of calls save is while correlative with ¢ t should mnot be con- teem that prings from plausibie pride teur blended with a certain - ¢ of gr ness und the charm of tractive in a hable, yet to that draws line around nor woman weave around If-respect that b is both her her most charming attraction. in its obeisance to the gh and ready manners, w h life in a roughshod wa; what is due herself. and it questioned that the surest way to make others delinguent in littie social is to be herself careless of glory and forgetful of Like all other failings of women, how- ever, the woman who adopts a hauteur of that is mot born in her, but 1 has been sedulously cultivated, too carries it to extremes. nouveau riche is par excellence haughty d@ame. Her haughtiness, however, is so transparent in its as- sumption of airs and graces as to be very saterially opposed to the dignity that —* By Col. Hate. HAUGHTY DAME 5 | — e comes with good breeding. The woman who acquires wealth piles up her airs of self-importance as she piles up dollars, each for each and one for each She has an idea that no one will know that she has money unless she forces the evidence before their immediate atten- tion. She is imbued with spirit of dollars, and deference that is her due in mighty installments, at the same time she loses sight of her own personality and thinks of herself, not as a woman but merely as the representative of : bank account that should be treated with obsequious regard, and soon the person- ality that may have been charming is merged into the moneyed autocrat, who carries about her always the trade mark of sudden plutocracy. The woman of millions is less approach- able than the man, having a more en- larged idea of her own importance. The man may forget that he is so han- dicapped when bending over a glass of wine, taken in a spasmodic fit of socia- bility, but a woman never forgets when she is favored beyond the ken of poor everyday mortals, nor will she allow oth- ers to forget. The first cultivates the haughtiness of manner; later comes the haughtiness of expression. She sweeps by with her trailing skirts rustling and bristling with an aggressive frou-frou. Her very presence is awe-in- spiring, and the frozen stare subdues the spirit of those inclined to resent her as- sumption of superiority. The lorgnetts is her weapon de resistance, and a glance through its weird littie glasses has a dis- comfiting, irritating influence almost in- describable. A woman can concentrate more pride, and more scorn, at the same time convey a more disagreeable impression by one glance through a lorgnette, than when reinforced by any other ally. There is something uncanny, not to say almost demoniacal, in this wizard of the eyes and of fashion that cannot be ex- plained by any cult of the seer. But that it produces a most disquisting effect on the person against whom it is leveled cannot be gainsald. The woman who cultivates this haught- iness ©f manner soon estranges her & friends, whether intentionally or uninte- tionally. Sometimes it is done with mal- ice aforethought, when she suddenly loses hoth memory and sight, through finding it more convenient to forget or to ignore the wh friends of her less prosperous days, not being as generously favored by can reflect no glory on continued ial intercourse. Ske would faint if the nextdoor neig‘h» bor of the olden times, who minded her t while she ran to the corner grocery few s' worth of lard or ba- were to bow to her, and if this same neighbor were to call 1t would frighten my ¢ into screaming hysterics. Perhaps there might be others to whom a slight is unintentional, but who, not being so fortunate from a worldly stand- point but vet possessing a large modi- cum of pride are naturally sensitive, and wait for advances to be made to them, fe ng to seem obsequious or obtrusive. Friendships are often dropped, as a re- sult not so much from the arrogance of the rich as from the sensitive pride of genteel poverty. per old-fashioned to presume haughty Thera is, too, another argument against the assumption of Ghaughty airs and grac The woman who cultivates this man- ner soon loses the beauty of expression that has made her face so attractive. The haughty look becomes fixed until it degenerates into something so disa- greeable that it is a cross between a sneer and a smirk. One expressive of disgust, the other of contempt. A woman can seldom adopt the hauteur of the grande dame so successfully as to do so without detriment to her own per- sonality; she becomes as repulsive and repellant as she looks, and soon her friends feel that they must generate a dynamo of courage before approaching her. If she escapes becoming downright ugly, then the special Providence who looks after fools and children has been attending strictly to business. There is nothing so winning as the en- couraging light in the eyes of sympathy and the smile of cordiality on the face of a woman. The light of welcome that beams, even before the lips utter the unspoken words, carries far more weight than the words themselves, and are a potent charm. An expressive face is always more attractive than a beautiful one thelr respectlve. places that there is no possibility of their falling out and the space that-they utllize is surprisingly small. Once in a hotel the case may be taken out and it is a decided con- venience, for it can he placed in the dresser and saves the trouble of carry- ing other such articles in the trunk. The bureau trunk, by the way, is the most convenient one that is made, but for practical pumposes the theatrical one is by far the best on the market. To be sure it has no drawers that easily slip in and out, nor has it a mirror which means so much to all femininity, but it is solid and sound and is made to withstand any amount of bumping and throwing about. The corners are reinforced with what are termed bump- ers, in reality a solid ball of rubber in- cased in brass, and no matter which .corner the trunk hits on, it promptly bounces off and is no worse for wear. oAt * For an eastern trip one of these trunks, which is filled with trays, by the way, and a hat trunk are all that is necessary unless you have an un- usually large wardrobe, for a forty- inch trunk looks quite like a small house and is capable of stowing away all manner of odds and ends. Skirt trunks are somewhat of a lux- ury for the woman that does not travel extensively, pensive and are exceedingly awkward to carry about on accourt of their ex- treme length. Nevertheless they are a comfort, for there are no ugly, disfig- - uring wrinkles and creases to worry over, for every gown has a tray by itself and is stretched out full length. If you are fortunate enough to possess one it is a pretty conceit to make a tiny pad of cheesecloth and wadding and fill it with any perfume that you like and use exclusively, for by this means the frocks always retain a faint sweet odor that is difficult to obtain otherwise. Perfuming clothes secems a simple enough trick, but it requires constant attention and means a constant out- lay of money. Padded drawers must be replenished every few weeks, the small scent bags that are showered so carelessly about must be refilled and the sweet smelling satin fluffs must be made over almost constantly. In trav- eling this is not always the easlest thing possible, nor have you the time even if you have the inclination, so the pads may be made at home and the sachet and perfume carried along without giving them a second thought. Bottles used to be a perfect bugbear, but they are dropped into the midst of a silk petticoat and a handsome waist with perfect unconcern, for they simply couldn’t leak or get broken if they wanted to. 'L B In the first place, while you do not for they are always ex+” want to carry a medicine shop abouf when you are on pleasure bent, it s often tbe wisest and safest thing to have semething on hand in case of an accident. A small leather case topped with a heavy cover that straps into place contains four fair sized bottles which may be filled with a stimulant, camphor, a medicine and perfume, and it dces not mean that you must stand on your head in the middie of the trunk and unwrap every article to find them either. Then they are always right side up with care and always ready for use. Traveling equipments lertainly have been wonderfully improved upon in the last ears, but there are hosts of fancy pretty trifles that would be more of a nuisance than a comfort; and the people who make a business of travel- ing are the ones that carry the least and the simplest. Generally English pecple are looked upon as having the best of everything in the traveling line and there are few that do not carry soleleather trunks about with them. They may be all very fit and fine and there is no gainsaying the fact that they are strong and durable, but they always overweigh the luggage limit and thé excess runs into a pretty penny before one has scarcely had time to turn about. For a distance of some 500 miles one leather trunk costs in the viclnity of $1 50 excess baggage, gc they are scarcely what could be termed a rattling good bargain. Suit cases and small hand bags few should never be of anything but leather or skins. Alligator bags are extremely serviceable and always look exceedingly fit and as though the owner was a woman of sound sense. Study the bags that get off a train or a boat and you can always tell the class of people they belong to. Now and again the clothes may be a trifle shabby, but the in- born look of a gentleman or lady is there. For some untold reason people are prone to judge others by their clothes and these days their equipments are classed as a part of their wearing apparel. t |l A lady is handicapped In ecarrying money or jewels when she ig journey- ing, for she does not possess anywhere from twenty to twenty-five pockets. In fact, if she possess one she may con- sider herself fortunate. But she has SXXRT 'T‘?UNK, IE"K s HA’T TCOMPAET ME gotter around this ry nicely. A chambis skin bag has been made that answers all purposes. It is large and presents a perfectly plain surface, but when two snaps are unfastened it re. veals a good-sized purse with a strong steel clasp and two smaller ones on either side of it. The whole thing is fastened about the waist by a bit of strong material and a stout buckle and any amount of currency and valuable jewelry may be carried without the slightest danger. And paper money s what should be taken, as it is light and easy to handle. Any bank will gladly exchange coin for paper and & thousand dollars may be carried about with no inconvenience. Smaller jewel bags may be purchased or made at home out of a piece of cha- mols and suspended from the neck by ribbon, but they are not as strong, and frequently are a great source of annoy- ance. If you are taking a flying trip the purse that is attached to a round garter is often a convenience, for thers is no.danger of forgetting or leaving it behind and besides it is easier to get at than the one that hangs about the throat. A heap has been sald about selecting berths and seats, but it so happens that it isn't always what you would like that you get, but what chances to be left and it is somewhat of a Hob- son’s choice. It is true that the mid- dle of the car rides easier and if you have a couple of weeks to make ar- rangements in, it is well enough to se- lect a berth or a section there, but there are few people who refuse anything that remains when they are ready to g0 or necessity demands it. However, it you can arrange to be located in a car In the middle of the train, it is wisest and best to do it. Accidents are very rare, but there is no telling when they might occur and, as a rule, the cars in the middle of the train are the safest. Those in front frequently catch on fire and the rear ones fly the track and are completely ruined, but more likely than not, the middle ones are jammed together with such force that iyl f THE ONLY WaAY TO cal YATS b they come out on top of the pile and the " occupants escape with nothing more than a severe shaking up. If you are going to a strange place it is'far better to ask for a guide and look up the best hotel or ask the porters or the conductor, for, generally speak- ing, they are walking information bu- reaus and are always ready and eager to display their knowledge. Never grab your belongings in one hand and rush madly off the train before it really comes to a standstill. Everything is o certain to be more or less confused, for runners, hackmen and baggage men are shouting at the top of their lungs. Rather wait and look about you leisure- ly and make up your mind just what you want to do. And then do promptly and in a businesslike fashi It is always good policy for a it traveling alone to stop at the best hot obliged the place affords if she Is stop over. There you may fectly secure and your po not suffer to any great ext If you are backward abo rectly to the office a boy is always o hand to serve you and all t that remains to be done is to clerk to assign you a room no ceed a certain stipulated price a few minutes you snug and for the time b walls will be your h ference does it make If the back of the house a to speak of? Unless you have p money it is better to econ: ze | fashion, for one night mor not kill your pride and you w just that much more to spend when you finally reach your destinatio In leaving look well ab u, £ is very easy to forget little trifles that have been used and tucked The time was when it was considere very bad form for a girl to start awa of her native city by horself, but was not always conveni take a bodyguard as along she k matter into her ow hands and things to suit herself. Why sh she? It she is well equipped. haves herself in a businesslike f: and as though she knew exactly wh she was about no one ever gives her » second glance or though. and she ma travel around the world quite as seren and unrufffied as any lord of creation that ever lived.