The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 14, 1904, Page 14

HOUGH Easter may be a long ff on the calendars, it is » very far away, judged \e sewing room of the mo- <. Here Easter finery lies ‘hairs and clothes ging with its gay- ving the fact that it gay Easter. The leader soci tacitly admitted X new gOwns, no to be any darker They were in tan, cream colored, blue, brown. And these s e taken for granted, never for- ent violet. of brown was a ade over a brown this was worn with skirt which was of i rich seal brown s T who dresses Very brown cloth skirt wn blouses ire, brown lou- Another bride n taffeta suit, a trimmed embroidery Persian th with ver. of littles. prettiness n street large brass ke the sun and round, with a by which they A one will med with with king exact cameo has ) the jewel ons, for stick gold it can be gown as fortunate a handful se, and if these pink and executed ave worn without coats They can v yokes. lace, b f applica ordion plaited ck and al houlders. This ttle style for the grace- nming the Shoulders. dresses a great s little accordion gers deep, Bacw OF vwAals—T s BELT™ AND BEFrEcT SHOM I BlLouseE she secures to a ribbon stock They stens around the throat. give 1t shing touch to the gown and are specially useful for raising the neck when the dress has been cut de- collete It is really remarkable to note how the t iing is being pushed off the It is sagging lower and it finds expression in the hich are a mass of ruffles d the elbows and the wrists. Cer- »dices are almost plain as to the and perfectly plain as to the But when it comes to the shoul- e is a tiny flat epaulet. Then the ruffiles, and by the time the t is reached the elbows and wrists one great fluffy mass of lace and chiffon, of soft, flying silks, all knife plaited, of the most delicate dotted net and of ribbon ends. Nor are these fancy sleeves peculiar to the silk gown alone, for they are a re of the cloth dress as well Vi ting dresses of rather somber cloth are made glorious with deep dotted plaitings, which fall from the elbow down over the hand, coming out of the sleeve in one great cascade at the e is no doubt that it is to be a velvet spring, for the new velvets are not only beautiful in color, but deli- cate in texture. They are, many of them, quite as thin as ladies cloth and there are a few expensive grades that are very delicate indeed and are called chiffon velvet, though they are by no means as thin as chiffon. When velvet can be made thin without losing its stateliness and can be so built that it is practicable for all wear from calling to dancing, and from house gowns to dinner gowns, then, indeed, velvet has reached a cer- tain triumph of art. A Brown Visiting Gown. A visiting gown of a warm brown- tan velvet was a very showy thing. It was quite plain in that it was made on shirt waist lines, with a round waist and a round skirt. The skirt, by the way, was one of the straight-gored ones, with narrow plaitings around the hips to be immediately released in the skirt part. The waist was a blouse waist. The waist was trimmed with escu- rial lace, put on in the form of incrusta- tions. The figures were cut out and the lacé applied. Then, around the &dge of the lace pieces there was a lit- tle border of jew These were of the mock jewel variety and could be sewed through and t ugh, like but- tor The girdle plays an important part in the new gowns. One of the hand- somest of girdles i3 made upon a foundation of bone and crinoline. The front is very deep and is boned and the bac is treated in the same way. The front is made of folds which cross and come up high under a series of lit- tle knots of ribbon. The back is fin- ished with a very long chiffon scarf whose ends tie in the back. Ancther girdle, this one intended for street wear, made of very light welght velvet, lined with velvet, so that it is two sided. A wide band of the velvet is brought around the waist and tied in a knots while the ends hang down to the foot of the gown. Then er piece of velvet comes, around the waist, is tied In a knot high be- tween the shoulders, and the ends hang n again, almess trailing upon the anot floor. The appearance of the girdle almost indicates that it is to be a sash sum- mer and, in fact, the first of the sum- mer dresses all seem to have sashes of one kind or another. And here is whers chiffon comes in v, for the M sash sets off a gown so Very well A gown which was built of biscuit colored ladles’ cloth had a sash of bi cuit colored chiffon doubled. This sash was edged with a ruching of plaited on so es to border the the way around. like the appearance of the s d it beccming will discover that it is much better when it is trim- med aroind the edge with something substantial, such as a plaiting of rib-" bon or of satin, for in this case it will not blow up as it otherwise would. The Spring Girl in Golden Brown. lovely brown for the girl is made of golden brown It is sweep length and is n, being far too long n ribbo: o A lovely, of spring broadcloth. a v gov z¢ = 4 and too pretty for shopping or pedes- trian wear. The skirt, which is made upon the plainest linés, is trimmed with long stitched bands of brown broadcloth of the same material as the gown. These bands are cut in points.and are so long that they reach from the belt right down to the bottom of the gown, where they are finished in sharp points, each point fastened with a big brass but- ton. The skirt needs no other trim- ming than this, for it is a kind of trim- ming which carries its own dressiness with it. - The upper part of this suit, which is one worn by one of the Vanderbilt women, was cut as an Eton, which closely fitted the figure. It was trim- med with stitched bands of broadcloth, each one finished with a brass button. And these bands, somehow, produced the effect of a box plaiting. The sleeves were very wide and very full and were brought in at the hand into a wide cuff, which was split open. This cuff had four brass buttons. In all of these visiting costumes a fine sleeve effect is produced by the very wide plaiting around the hand. The lingerie cuff it is called, and all materials from the durable and wash- able lawn to the delicate chiffon are employed in its manufacture. The most useful and the prettiest from a tailor point of view of the lingerie cuffs are produced by making the ready made knife plaiting, which comes at about 75 cents a yard, and buying enough of it to sew into the sleeves. It does not take a great deal ) DY and the result is marvelously good. course, the trouble is to (B ot these fmmaculate.’. But it can 'a few talks with & white _FRANCISCO .. SUNDAY CALL goods cleaner. One woman who wears the .ong white ruffies at her sleeve of lace, and of plaited tulle, and of lawn, and of taf- - feta, and what not, makes it her prac- tice on taking them off to rub chalk lightly through the lacy parts. The ‘whole is now done ur .n blue tissue paper, as this is sald to preserve the ::::ot the lace better than anything There is a marvelous chapter to be ‘written upon the scenting of laces, and the woman who is keen on the subject can so*scent her lace that it will smell as though it just came out of the lav- ender chest. This is done by keeping it in & chest which is lined and scented with lavender, and to keep the lavender fresh requires some addition to the chest every week. One of the most charming Iittle ef- fects of the whole year was produced by a woman who wore a visiting gown of black, all black, with the inevitable trimming of very fancy buttons. Thers was a little shoulder cape, for it was a two-plece suit. But the front was open, and this gave an opportunity for the display of a very fancy vesting. This woman, who is very deft, took a French model and copled it exactly. She made a little vest of white broad- cloth, which she embroidered by hand down the front in military fashion, us- ing gold silk, gold braid and small brass buttons. The buttons were caught with little straps of silk braid and white silk brald was used in the em- broidery scheme. This way of trim- ming a white vest front is heartily rec- ommended to the woman who Is going to wear a plain cloth suitfor spring and who relies upon her vest for ele- gance. The stock plays an important part, for it matches the embroidery of the vest. It is carried out in yellow silk, in narrow gold braid and in a few tur- quoises, and is finished with a very nar- row gold braiding around the upper edge and around the lower part. A brass button finishes the little front tabs, which are united with a white silk loop. You can do such a lot with the plain- est of cloth suits if only there is an epportunity for a vest with beautiful decorations. Many of the handsomest suits now come with three vests, an embroidered chamols vest with oriental embroidery upon its front; a white cloth vest carried dut in gold and brass buttons, and a vest of blue trimmed with silver and gold. The terms silver and gold are used lightly in the fashion world, whereas once they were used cautiously, be- cause they -represented the expenditure of so much money. But such is not now the case, and one can go as resplendent as a glittering monagch without giving up more than would be the price of any baser metal. 9 In her visiting costume the smart wo- man who likes striking effects can go all showy as a belted Earl. The belts made of metal links are in again and her waist can glitter like the sun from the mock jewels that are to be found in the belt. There are very few handsome gowns which do not sport a little gold and sil- ver and some are largely trimmed with it, for there are silver Incrustations upon the waist and there are silvered panels upon the skirt, all done by hand, and made out of the finest and most delicate, the thinnest yet the most bril- liant, of silver braid. The designs are intricate and the pattern is fairly stiff with silver, A SPLLT TCUOUFF v FULL SLeEEVE 3 AAND LINGEREE -~ RUFFLE — *a direct art. One ¥ery effective way to use very ndrrow gold braid is to border cloth panels with it. These are used to tnx: ekirts and also to strap waists. A~nd Just along the edge there can be place a very narrow border of gold braid. Every three or four inches there can be planted a brilliant little gold button. The best dressmakers are actually copying the military coats, as far ru1 trimmings are concerned, and you wil notice, if you study the braided de- signs, that they are patterned after those seen in the coats of the militia. Yet, while the military trimmings are in style, the military coats are not. Collars are not as severe as military collars, and the sleeves of spring are certainly not military sleeves. On the contrary, they are large and loose and are built on the “gran- ich shows a very large. sleeve, almost without loose shape, vet growing steadily larger to- ward the wrist and finally ending In & cuff at the hand. This is far removed from militarism, for it is purely fem- inine in itsetendency. The visiting cuff is a joy forever, &8 very long as the gown lasts. It is novel in its style, being of many unique shapes, not at all like the stiff, long, tight cuff which formerly finished so many sleeves. One of the prettiest of shapes is the cuff, which is slashed at the back with the opening finished in two rounding corners. It is a tallor made cuff with a lingerfe cuff below it. “To make the prettiest cuff of the year, a tailor made cuff,” says a mod- iste, “take a stiff, tight, round ouff, about six inches deep, and fit it to the arm. Do not have it too close and do not slope it. Its shape must be as straight as a linen cuff. “Now take this cuff and slash it a8 the back, cutting it almost through. Round off the corners, line the cuff with silk and finish with fancy bute tons, putting four along the opening. “This kind of a cuff is becoming to the hand and more. It gives an op=- portunity for the wearing of knife plaited ruffles that will fall down over the hand. These ruffles are finished with lace or are of chiffon, big, loose, fluffy and beautiful.” Another very pretty cuff is one that flares. This cuff, which is almost as deep as the elbow, is open in a bell shape. This bell is lined with ruf- fles of lace. One of these bell cuffs was lined with ruffles of taffeta with their edges pinked. Another was lined with silk ruffles. which were bordered “with fringe. There are many Wways of trimming these inner linings or cuffs. A sleeve that is beautiful in Its sim- plicity is made in melon fashion, with all of the melon falling below the arm. It is stiffened and baggy in its ten- dency, instead of hanging limp. This sleeve was finished w a deep cuff of lace, which was transparent and trimmed with bands of taffeta and satin, one very glossy and the other very dull. Fitting the Spring € It seems almost as though spring gown were not to be fit all, for all of its tendencies ward looseness. The waists bloused in the front. The skirts full and are cut in sweeping fashion, and the sleeves are large and very much inclined to take on melon, gra ny, blouse and drooping shapes. Where, then, is the fit of the gown? To th clover dressmaker replied: the gown, the very test of its elegance, is found in the set of the shoulders and in the way the belt is managed. If the shoulders are fitted nicely and are made to slope, if the armholes are low and elegantly managed, so that they do not interfere with the low shoulder effect, and if the yoke afhd stock are well fitted, the waist is pretty sure to be elegant. “The fit of the belt and the waist line is another thing and a difficult matter when rough materials are employed. And with spring there will be a new lot of rough goods, tweeds, Irish suitings and all sorts. These, many of them, are stretchy in their nature, and to manage them well around the hips is The canvas gowns, too, are on the way and by spring you will see many a canvas dress figured with a little figure of satin. “And, speaking of the figure of satin, do you know that the summer silks are pearly all to have little brocaded figures in them, and that the summer taffetas are positively glorious with their little satin brocades and their It tle twisted silk designs? “Particularly are the black taffetas admirable in this respect, and for 50 cents or so a yard one can get the neatest little taffeta gowns, In_dull black. These have a glossy little figure brocaded all through the silk, small and fine and so arranged that almost the whole silk is covered.” It is to be a great season for figured goods, for the manufacturer has out- done himself this year, and the result is a variety of pretty designs which will leave even the most fastidious sat- isfied with the choice. And there are the Ilittle “shoulder capes of cloth and silk. Was anythin ever prettier These, if not detacha- ble, are laid flat and are so arranged that they become part and parcel of the spring suit, often ending In wide stoles down the front, each stole end finished with a brass button. wn. are are are s Girl Who Got Just What She Deservedl — — NCE upon a time there lived in the town of Segreganset a blonde. ! She was slender, flex- ible, emotional and worth see- ing without a veil. Her eyes were of an azure blue, her fingers tapered, her instep was high and her name was Alphoretta. Alphoretta was as high-strung as a concert violin and as graceful as the weeping willow. Even when she was all by herself she would sit on the very edge of the chair with her skirt wrapped under and her shoulders thrown back just as though it was not the least bit painful. There was nothing prosaic about Miss Alphoretta. “She was a stickler for high and lofty em&: Every morning - 'n_the crystal sunbeams peeped through the heavy hangings at her window and bathed the room in a tender, golden light, Al- phoretta would open her night-worn eyes, desert her pillow, make a care- ful toilet and stroll into'the garden, whe; she would peruse “Poems of Passion” ‘mid dew-kissed daffodils while her mother prepared breakfast. To the he-belles of Segreganset Al- phoretta was absolutely ungetatable. They did not grade high enough to segatiate In her class. Every time them would take a step in her she would wave a red light. Fact is, Alphoretta’s aim was high. She was not going to chance herself to be‘landed by any man who was the least commonplace. Deep down in the labyrinths of her mind Alphoretta had planted an idea that some day she would be discover- ed, wooed and wen by some tall man, brave and true. He, would be the owner of vast estates, a yacht, a city mansion and a Newport villa. He would be a collector of priceless works of art and a connoisseur of rare vin- tages. He would be a leader among men and a defender of women. His wealth would be unlimited and he would be liberal to a fault. He would be a Herbert Spencer in intellect, a James K. Hackett in form and a Harry Lehr with the women. His name would be Percival or Reginald or Piedmont or something equally ador- able. To Alphoretta he would be con- stant and true. Her wish would be his law and her every whim would be gratified. He would surround her with maids, secretaries and all that her heart could desire in furs, frocks and frills. % True., no man of that desecriptios had shown a desire to accumula!: Mr: phoretta. But she had a hynch that it was only a question of time when he would appear upon the scene and lay claim to her heart and hand. That is why she held out on the local sup- nlyA :'t galbait. er spinning around in 4 - land for a comsiderable spell Alr::::_ etta settled down and married the flor;mmom o‘t’ a guano factory. : You never get m than coming to you. - . s -