The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 31, 1904, Page 10

SUNDAY FRANCISCO direct descent e Grey, is wear- a high square 1 black with a black lace brim chou at the side. lack. For, flat upon a long black os- ich extended over the and curied down was nearly half a complete, feath- have cost something money on this » say that it made ve ornament for the Grey's fair beauty dequately describing it. 1 draws to a close, and comes in, slight e to take place and ticeable is to be ob- ightening of the hats Where dark richness now a lighter tone, give, but- more though it can be no time were the winter Qor for it is the style of the t violets, roses and all nd set them in the ns, ste] satins, ‘and naterials. s another odd feature of ts, namely, the combin- feathers and flowers. And e continues there can ffor It water ost n be » t on the score of the da ess 1 ess of the winter hats Gloom is positively driven AW by a sight of their floral gayety. B s winter season changes to early spring there is a certain de v 1definable, yet none > be observed in the was worn by a plump- uty was intended a go-between, a twixt the pale floral r and the heavy hats buiit as so many hats are, wire. The brim in creamy the brim ed four large, creamy which fell over the feathers ear right down upon the of the hat, the crown, was tle white flowers, and at ervals there were little sable tadis which were twisted through the flowérs. The tails in their dusky black- to the lit- le the creamy d the creamy ostrich nished a picture n every detail. : Thé Recipe for a French Hat. A French milliner on being asked how (o make a hit replied: “Give me a large wire frame and a handful of ma- ferials and I will make you a hat.” With “deft fingers she would shape the wire frame until it was suited to the f She would lift it a very at one gide and slope the brim slightly. vpward all the way around. 4 she would take the back and ana turn it down so that it sharply upon the hair. Then, as a finishing stroke to the shape, she would give a Gainsborough touch by set- ting a bandeau under one side so as to e the great sweeping eurve. would come her triumph of art, which was complete shion mbining of the materials into ng a la mode. The brim needs to be faced inside, and for this the pret- tiest aterials are needed. A bit of ace stretched flat over a taffeta foun- dation makes a very handsome hat fac- ing. and some of the prettiest hats are 1. nr in white taf- 1 wud ovel e tadew ARSI S is stretched the which can be coarse or fine, The heavy Irish lace is used with its great raised grape pat- tern, or the very fine and pretty filet Jaces, or the more delicate French laces. It really makes little difference what kind of lace is used. “Give me an interesting lace,” said a miiliner, “and I do not care what its expense may be. It can be a very cheap lace for all I require, Results are ob- tained with interesting lace, but not with stupid laces.” An “interesting” lace is one that has a nice figure outlined updn it—a lace which will admit of study, a picturs lace! If the Tace is of a sort which will allow the lacy figures to be cut out, s0 much the better, for the figures can be used to much better advantage when they are cut qut. The Picture Laces for Hats. And speaking of picture laces, these are now the vogue. Laces with Rus- sian animals, trees and odd little stunt- ed shrubbery are made. And there are picture laces, which actually show lit- tle Swiss houses and tiny Alpine scenes. These are for the most part made to order and are the property of the select few, who can have their laces designed for them. The most striking picture laces among the cheap laces are the fruit and flower laces. Grapes that stand out as lace, prominently as though they were the: real article can be purchased life size for the trimming of the crown, or the under brim of a hat. And small fruits of all kinds are #so purchasable in lacy form to be cut out of one kind of lace and applied to another. That is the way with the plcture laces. No matter how brilliantly they may be executed, they are cut out of thér natural positions.and taken away from their own foupdations to be ap- plied to lace of an entirely different sort. They are now weaving lace flowers in detached pieces all ready to be applied to the brims of hats and the fronts of waists. And they are beginning to make little lacy designs for the same pur not on the flower order, but in sles, squares and ovals. These can be found in very delicate patterns, with mother-of-pearl scales, and they also come with colored stitches worked JLACE AND TRIMMED WITH CALL VELVETEEN GAINSBOROUGH HAT COVERED BaRas'SR SEARSSIN AND FREATHER. = in througn tnem, ana they are founa with jeweled applications : and really marvelous chenille and velvet and silken mixtures. _ The Treatment of the Hat. *“The most important part of a hat is the brim,” said a milliner the other day. “Let me trim the Brim just as I please and I will let any one at all trim the crown of the hat.” This milliner, who is noted for the wonderfully fashionable hats which she turns out and whose cheapest creation is a hat costing $40, has for a whole season past made a study of her hat brims. “The day has passed,” said she, “when a milliner can ‘neglect the brim. The brim is now the most important part of the hat, as it deserves to be. It is wide and, if well treated, it forins the necessary frame for the face. If badly treated, it makes the face look ugly. “Milliners did not realize how neces- sary this correct treatment of the hat brim was to the beauty of the hat. But now they are coming to see that, unless the brim is rightly trimmed, the hat will not be a success. *“And is this not very reasonable, for, with the picture styles that are now tne vogue, the brim of the hat is very large? In some cases it is immense and there is a Washington picture hat as large as a washtub®{The brim curves < slightly. upward all the way around, g and one side is lifted to imitate the Gainsborough vogue without the Gains- borough. tilt, but with more stylé and dash. 5 “With & hat brim like this to work upon, a milliner has a fine field@ for her endeavor, She can apply it with lace iy shirring of velvet-and she can attach a bunch of ostrich feathers underneath. . This gives her sufficlent treatment for -the under side of the brim. “As for the upper part, it is hand- somest painted or embroidered, if it be a dress hat. Pointed lace is not expen- .sive and nothing could be more effec- tive. Embroidered lace is something within the, reach of.nearly every one and it is lovely. Lace that is treated to any kind of hand decoration becomes, all at once, two or three times as val- uable, as well as two or three times as pretty. “A hat brim which was bent down- ward at the baek was painted with a bunch of roses. The centers of the roses were embroidered and, in the res; she can bind the edge with a: madle o{ the center, In the very heart of the roses; there was a little pink ghell ornament sewed fast. “Painting, embroidery and mock jew- els are all used in the treatment of lace besides a great many other materials.” .And the milliner who is famed for her hat brims picked up a sable tail and proceeded to apply it to the brim. She arranged it so that one little end hung down. Then other tail, letting an end hang down. Then she applied another tail, letting another furry end hang down; and so she went all the way around the hat, making a becoming little border. Trimming the Blowy Hat of Spring. They have a new way of trimming the hat ot spring which is ordinarily trimmed with a veil. The veil is used, but the hat is not draped with it in the usual fashion. On the contrary, the veil, which is a big one, is wound around the crown and run through the buckles, and is pinned at the back with a flat buckle. The ends now hang down. Veils of all kinds and all colors are used for this purpose and hats of every description are so trimmed. And here comes in a chance for very artistic work. Hats are trim- med with veils which are embroid- ered in colors. : For the winter there are holly and evepgreen veils which are worn while the cold weather lasts. Then come the violet' embroidered veils and the vells that have borders of button roses. As long‘'as veils are used for hat trimmings they Will be as beautifully decorated as possible, and any amount of work will be put upon them. Not only are they , broidered, but lace is inset. And. are veils that sell for upward of $50, lovely things that can be worn from ear to year and saved ak heirlgoms erward. bR A hat trimmed with a vell can be very easily made, for it needs noth- ing more than the veil, a little skill in drapery and a handsome pin for the back. A brush can stand sharply at one side if desired. But do not, if you are using a veil drapery, make the mistake. of employ- ing some old veiling that is left in the house unless you understand the art of redressing it and restiffening. for it must be a very smart affair, or it will look dowdy from its point of van- tage on top of your head. Jets, sil- ver, gun metal and turquoise buckles are all’ used for the back. “Drape your veil as though you were laying a piece of cotton around the brim,” cautioned a milliner to one of her trimmers. “Don’t pull the veil tight and don’t stitch it flat, for as STEEL BUCKLE AND FEATHERS she applied an- e e Sttt el ——————— NEe AT = soon as you do this it will have & stiff look. Rather arrange it easily and gracefully and rely upon the buckle to hold it in place. i 4 “Never on any consideration sew a veil flat,” said she, “but pin it. You can pin it effectively, but you can never, in all the world, sew it effect- ively. A pin here and a pin there is all @ light, blowy veil should ever have.” The Pretty Girl's Streamers. “There will always be streamers of one kind or another, for the streamer idea has caught the fancy. It may be no more than & floating feather, or it may be long, wide ribbon streamers. But there they must hang at the back of the hat or at the side.” So de- clared & milliner whose windows are gorgeous at this time of year. Nearly all of her hats were supplied with -streamers, which hung as a finishing touch at the back of the head. Some «Were of satin lined with a different color. Other hats had streamers of rib- bori with & knot tied in the end of ‘each ribbon, and there were half a dozen of these streamers, each about an inch wide. At the very next window, that of an _equally fashionable milliner, there was not a ribbon or a satin streamer to be Seen. But, on the contfary, the hats were ifinishéed round and neat in the compact“London style, These hats were trimmed with twists of spring mate- rials and were finished ' with stift plumes, with lttle ambitious cockades and with tufts of ribbon and of velvet made into great handsome choux. The London hat styles of this time of year show such smartness that t " 18 worth while to pause and study them. They are' of what is called here the 2gdy-to-wear variety and the trim- x fs laid on with a precisfon tnat 18 the admiration of of the amateur, Coarse net, of the kind that win stand the weather and with a heavy gloss. makes an all-the-year-round hat trimming and is used in all colors to trim headgear. Net is taken in a shade of brown and is reinforced with a silk lining and is then twisted around the crown of the hat and brought up at one side in a big, faney chou. This is finished .with «a stifr cockade of brown. The hat brim of a London hat of this description is lat- ticed with brown and green or with brown and white, But do not attempt, oh; amateur, to make a London hat unless very sure of yourself. for you will surely come to grief. It cannot be ac- complished by any one who is not well skilled in the millinery art and it is not a safe thing for the woman who & you a is dealing with cheap materials. It takes good stuf and g skillful hand and a very neat frame to turn out a , London hat as it should be turned out. How to Use Ostrich Feathers. Ostrich feathers accumulate in the house and when you ¢ome fo get out your stock you uswally find that you bave a goodly array. There are lit- tle tips of all colors, and, not infre- quently, one finds a.long plume which has outlived its day and has beeén put away to rest. They are taking all such feathers and washing them in soap and water and shaking them dry in front of a fire.. This,” if the feathers be well washed and rinsed, will restore-the curl if the feather be a good one. It i= mow taken, in its lght, fluffy state, and is used for the under side of the hiat, or for the top, or, indeed, for the back or any other part, for it ‘would be difficult to find a place upon a hat which cannot be treated to a feather or two. If there are tips enough a pretty trimming,is made by arranging them around the brim of a hat, or around the crown -in a little circle, with the tips of the feathers falling forward.. This can be.done with the most gharming re- stlts if the feathers be in blue - and white. A little circle of blue and white fgathers can be set around a erown and if the feathers alternate a most pleasing effect is produced upon a hat that |s all black or a hat that is all white. ' There is less of the up-curling ten- dency and a great deal more of the flattening treatment as far as feath- ers are con€erned. Instead of draping your feather around the crewn of your hat, you are advised to lay it flat In such a manner that the end of the feather will curl over hair. Will the Flat Hat Remain? The guestion of the flat hat is one that is ever under discussion. Whether it will be revived, or whether evem that which remains of its flatness will go out of style. There are a few flat hats, but none are now found of the abso- lutely pancake variety. All are lifted one sice, or in the front, which is by tar the most popular style of fall. In fact, it is a summer that will go hard with people who cannot wear the hat lifted off the face, and there are thousands that cannot. Many women suffer almost a total loss of good looks by the lifting of the hat brim in the front, while the hat that sets back from the face and brings out the fea- tures in prominence is a hat which ab- solutely forces a woman to admit every year of her age. Those who cannot adopt this style have a great variety of .shapes open to them, for there are hats now to fit all types of beauty. There are hats that tilt at one side, while the other has a sweeping brim, and there are hats with high square . crown sur rounded by a brim which is almost romantie in its convelutions. Do not despair, ho matter how ugly you may be in feature, for you can surely find a hat that will just suit your type And, when vou find the right kind, it may transform you from a plain woman into a pretty one. Who knows~ “1 have made many a beauty.” said a milliner, smiling a complacent smile, nd the end is not yet. Two are to visit me t ay to be fitted with pleture hats. And I fairly neeve over the prospect, for they are | and Tean «nd have hatehet faces. Yet I shall be egual to the task.” And this only goes to proves that if the coat makes the mun, the hat, no makes the woman. el ‘Wearing monocles, the jatest fashion for ladies, a craze recently .started in Paris by ladies of the Servian colony, is extending to Londoa women less,