The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 27, 1903, Page 10

shall be 2 geranium colored crepe embroidered, with large c;l’ aid the mo- irsts customer the most s day.” blonde customer, to the colors the iame is mis- 0t wear , it is the Madame nown so- ircle, “who society, will bullding a e for Mrs. Y- " wear gerani gown of the s & young matron of the silver type.” Madame acquiesced, and among the Ne Y os ere will be stil enother gowned in the soft red color f “the flower of the people.” jeranium promises to be the color he new year Geranium colored beautiful tone, flowers of bril- being em- and bod es skirt els. And could anything be prettier for ? Under the glare of the the more shaded the bright red eve wear ights, or ant beauty, bring- 1s of the wearer and her surroundings with equa tractivene: ng about geran- It is, a sympa- with h appeals to one. modiste said It what is more to the point, ming one ash blonde to the deep brun- agrees one's to ne. every ¢ It is universal tone and 'few be without at this kind® in ‘her A certain hostess who recelyes in- wear a gown of geran- thin and of the as chiffon velvet. The mally will 1 panne, very known n except for a great sun- tucks upon the front sleeve caps are trimmed with a rst of tucks and The of pin the hips are leeves are cut wide, filled with A gown of d are g shape, iuated chiffon ruffles. le expensive as far as the whi is concerned, is cheap In the requires -little or no A indefinitely an be made over later. In its season it can be trimmed with wears in its third season, ara ed with lace or covered THE LADY OF THE PANSIES. There is 2 woman in society who has chosen the pansy colors for her own. She invariably wears them and, since pansy shades blend charmingly, Her tonme is a lovely purple, but she sometimes chooses the deep gold ? the outdoor pansies: and then her gowns come out in their full gorgeous- ness. ehe £ always exquisitely dressed. o Her gown for New Year's day is a w crepe de chine, with the e with plain panel front. The tucked and the skirt is ex- v full, one of those mew enor- mously full gkirts which hang in many ds around the figure, loose yet cling- ing voluminous yet in mo way bouf- e trimming of this gown consists a folded girdle of pansy purple vel- vet which is laid around the waist in & very deep crush of velvet. The stock silk band with purple pansies em- broidered upon a cream ground. Ex- skirt are double rows of embroidered silk pansies. The waist, tending around the by the way—and here is remarkable feature of the gown—is a cape shaped affair, short on the shoulders, very deep in the front and waist deep in the back. It fas- tens the middle of the back. It hangs loose and is worn over an un- derwaist of soft organdie. In preparing her gown for a New Year's reception, or, in fact, for any nice occasion, one must remember that a gown to be looked at crit- to be worn in the gaslight, rhaps only a few times. An example of a pretty frock, made for only a few wearings, was noticed the other day. The foundation of the dress was a pomegranate red silk pet- ticoat with an underwaist to match, Over the skirt was worn three skirts of tarlatan,one in pale green, one in pink and ome in white. This gave a lovely shaded effect. The skirts were cut off without binding and were left with their edges ragged. The outer one was finished with a little tarlatan one very in it is no fcally, t L] flounce. The waist was combleted in the same manner, with three layers of tarlatan. Such a gown looks pretty and will iwear a dozen times, which is all one wants of it. THE LOVELY CHAMPAGNE TONES Champagne colors are now a great deal worn: and, particularly, for even- Ing.. The yellow s what might be called a sparkling yellow; and in it there is a softness which looks a little like red. A champagne colored taffeta was trimmed “with black silk tassels, of the short, fat variety. These ex- tended over the shoulderg tassels trim- med the girdle, and they were massed in little bunches at each side of the. lace fichu and were used to head the flounce which trimmed the skirt A gown of taffeta, either glazed or dull, can be made up very plainly and with as good effect as though elabor- ately planned. a round one, cut on the shirt waist pat- tern. And, if it be trimmed with sleeve caps embroidered with a few black stars, and if it has a little embroid- ery upon the vest, it will come out very well and within fashion’s require- ment, though a great deal more can be done to make it more extreme in style. A taffeta in 2 shade of French gray was finished with very bouffant sleeves to which were attached deep lace cuffs with narrow velvet ribbons run through the cuffs. The yoke and stock were of lace, all made in one piece, with nar- row ribbons run through them. The gowns of the present season are #0 wonderfully picturesque that one cannot but stop to look at them twice. There are the deep folded girdles of the present season, with their brilliant hues, the bouffant sleeves, the marvel- ous lace yokes, the deep and brilliantly embroidered shoulder capes, the wide skirts sweeping the floor and the hip yokes of many materials, all of which serve to make the gowns more than usually attractive. There may be noth- ing novel, nothing very startling in de- sign or in color, yet the whole is de- cldedly picture-like. GOLD ROSES WITH PINK HEARTS. The woman who'recelves New Year's calls must be & mass of chiffon and fluff. If she be a rich woman this bil- lowy fluffiness may cost far into the hundreds, but if she be a woman of taste and economy she can get up al- The bedice can be mest the same results for a great deal less. When the Duchess of Roxburghe was marriec! a guest created a sensation by the elegance of the gold embroidered upgn her The dress, pale cream crape, was decorated with roses, all of gold, that stood out with charming distinctness. A tiny pink heart was set in each gold rose. The embroidering cf gowns with flow- ers, while not new, is a fancy which takez a fresh hold upon the mo- diste’s fancy and the execution of the flowers is different in a great many m gown. made of h those of previous years. They are mueh’ finer in their execu- richer in color and tion, much are much more symbolic, if ong may so uge the werd, in thelr meaning. The s are preserved better. and while 2 gown that is embroidered with daisies is just the thing for spring wear, ‘the flowers t:at are now chosen are the luxuriant American Eeauties and the rich winter flowers. A great deal of taste can be shown in this manner. So great is the fancy for flowers and flower decorations that pressed and dried are impressed into the service, and one gown of Paris impor- tation actually had large pink rose leaves laid under tiny bits of gla: with the whole caught in place by a tiny stitchery around the edge. But such elaborate work is hardly neces- sary to beauty. And another gown, also flower embroidered, was trimmed with a ruffle of lace, which was draped here and there with real sprays of nat- ural flowers, which exactly matched the embroldered flowers of the gown. Every little trimming scheme is sug- gestiye to the woman of taste and fancy and a glance at any pretty model will tell her something which can be done with her own gown. It is a fact that a great many of the most admired creations are the work not of the French meodiste, but of the woman at home; and it is un- doubtedly true that some of the most exquisite gowns of the New York ball- rooms were brought forth, not from the Custom-house, but from the clever needle of the home student of fashion. MRS. GEORGE WASHINGTON'S GOWN. Mrs. George Washington once had a gown of which she was very proud. It was a pinkish silk of a shade which we would now.call peach blow. It was flowers worn with an embraidered sash and around the neck there were & great many little sof: embroidered ruffles. It escaped the ground, and; though not fitted as to the skirt, it swept away in a very graceful line. She wore with it a string of pearls, the most elegant jewels of the day. Almost the same costume was seen the bther day in the fitting room of a very fashionable dressmaking estab- lishment. The woman who was having it made for a New Year reception in- sisted that the waist be cut upon the short walst model, with full blousing front, while the skirt was finished with a deep ruffle o flounce. A wide folded velvet girdle finished the waist, upon which was placed a pearl buckle. Long strings o‘t pearls were to drape the neck, which was finished round with | i o \\ | | FPES\AN E{V\BR.O\DE.Ey PIN TLUCW NG many soft ruffies. The whole, while charmingly up-to-date, presented a cu- rious blending of the colonial and the 1903 and 1904, A . Though there !s nothing aggressively new this year, yet it is a season of nov- eltfes. And among the new things there can be noticed the following spe- claities: Large 'button molds covered with cream silk upon which there is a design in Japanese embroidery. Beautiful girdles of silk, pointed up at the back and finished with two lcng tabs in front, which cross and are dec-, orated with calored silks and are run . through a gold ring buckle. . And lovely new shades In silk, th most popular of which are. spring vio- let, pomegranate red, stone, French and silver gray, fuchsia red, crimson pink, a silvery pink, and gun metal, the lat- ter being found In all materials. NOVELTIES OF THE YEAR. There 18 a lovely velvet which Is com- paratively new and is known as chif- fon velvet because it is so thin and so easily draped and so becoming. And there are exquisite linings which on being disclosed reveal marvels in handiwork, embroidery, applique and padded work. A new material for dinner gowns is called poplinette. It is very thin, almost filmy, and has the remarkable quality of wearing well in spite of the fact that 1t is so delicate. And there are silver silks which re- mind one of the treasure trunk in the attic, yet which have more sheen. These are made up into wonderful evening gowns and are worn with old silver Jewelry. A beautiful silver lace decorated with overwork in chenille is one of the nov- elties, as it is put on by hand. Gold lace treated in the same way, and imi- tation gold lace, which is cheap, can be easily managed by one's own self. Odd lengths of lace are treated with padded work, which is so arranged that the flowers set out with all the natur- alness of the silk flower, and these padded roses, padded leaves and pad- ded designs are among the things which a woman can do herself. Buttons are covered with crepe in brilllant colors, and in the middle of each button there is a queer little worked animal set in the center of a green follage. Frequently these little designs are appliqued upon the crepe background, so that the button becomes a reel little work of art. That Dame Fashion is madly extrav- agant this season there can be no man- ner of doubt. But, to her favor, there must be set down the fact that she oc- casionally balances matters with her consclence and with her purse. So that just when you have decided that there is none as reckless as she, behold, she discloses to you some clever makeshift which saves the cost of a gown, and ' maybe of a season’s wardrobe. For one thing, she will show you her linings, which are made separate from the skirt, thus saving a great deal of oF AND PANELDS OF cost. One lining of silk or of satin or of brocade, according as the size may be, will do for wear with a dozen gowns. And when it is worn out a new one can be made with very little trouble. DAME FASHION MAKESHIFT. The silk petticoats come these days made in such a fine manner that they can be employed as linings, and if they exactly match the dress they can be worn under an unlined skirt with the best effect, as a drop skirt. ‘With a blue cloth gown of modest pretensions and unlined there can be worn a blue silk drop skirt or petti- coat. It should be cut very tight on ‘the hips—as all good petticoats are— ‘and it should be made with a great .many bouffant ruffles around the foot. It is a good plan, if it be a dressy skirt, to add a ruffie or two of chiffon just THE EMPIRE EVENING GO 1904 ; to make the fluffiness certain. And on woman, who dresses a great deal ,,A nothing at all a year, has a flounce of gold colored chiffon bordered with a rim of gold lace, which she bastes upon { her silk petticoat, when she is going £ te wear it for a nice, occasion. Al h gkirts are unlined. ¥ While the vogue of the shirt waist was never greater, still there i fancy for the combplete cos shirt v e so that a whole suit can be obtained Mrs. Clarence Mackay wears a shir walst of black crepe de chine with a skirt of the same; Mrs. Cornelius Van derbilt is very vartial to deep purple peau de soie, with black skirt trimmed with ba of silk edged with purple peau de soie. Mrs. Potter Palmer al most lived in shirt waists of silver, gun metal. nic and French gray, which she we: with a gray skirt or & skirt of dull black, trimmed with colored lace, in a shade of gray to match the waist. White is immensely popular chalk white is the latest and most fash- fonable of white ones. Pearl white, oyster gray white, chalk white and fvory white can all, be found in the new cloths and in the new laces: so that to own a white gown these days is mot to bespeak either monotomy or simplicity. A DUCHESS IN wiITE. 4 The Duchess of Roxburghe Is a very attractive figure in a white cloth gown with a white picture hat. No more serviceable a gown than this could be invented for the semi- gala wear of the woman of good taste. It is not too dressy for a nice after- noon call; it is just the gown for re- ceptions and evening oceasions, and It will do very nicely for dinners. At a pinch it can be worn to church under a dark fur coat, if you want te eopy the English style. White cloth is not ohly fashionable, but it is becoming and it has the un- questioned and undoubted advantage of dressiness without fussiness. It cleans well, wears forever, and since it is white, one does not get tired of it. Miss Alice Roosevelt, in & white camel's hair frock, with a shaggy white hat, was a charming figure the and other day at a church sale, which came, late in the afternoon, a soe affair of no small prominence. Women who have not a great many gowns should be careful to plan those which they have in such a manner that they are not conspicuous. Black and white are the best colors, though brown can be so disguised that one does not grow weary of it. Decidedly the materials of the win- ter are well adapted for round about wear. Camel's hair and zbeline, though the two most popular stuffs, are highly fashionable and very dur- able. And in this respect Dame Fash- lon has been most kind, for she has graciously deigned to approve of ma- terials that wear well. And, so, she has saved many dollars for the woman who wants to be in style. The silks and the satins, the moire and changeable velvets of all kinds have their wearing qualities. But they do not in any way compare to the shaggy cloths in smartness, and, espe- clally for street wear, dre the zh materials best. The beaver cloth, Wwith its satiny surface, and its guarantee of long life, is about the best thing that can be discovered these days for very ' nice luncheon and afternoon wear.