The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 22, 1903, Page 11

Arz VR a7 s Lress O rrearr Peaw do sare JWréh) £ mmbareideres Bovowvels. s L e What the debutante wear, what the matron, what the young g the hostess — Gowns for formal dinners and gowms for stately occasions—The di dress of the coming winter and what it will show in novel feat- ures. - one dress for tt he gown be a 1 lendid n the smaller citi fam have lived for years and are easily railied es, where e subject cz gown, very s of Ma cut from panne raniums were some g red, while others were , while a few were In g altogether a perfect glow lication of flowers to a gown is t and, if carefully cut there will be no frayed mar the completeness unches, or the sin- used upon the finest f dinner gowns with ults in every case. dinner, where one is t lights, the sharpest are permissible, and niot at out of t edges of for the ts beau- not a substantial goods, and if of fairly good advised for a din- mal oc- than of wear and ;“and can be up in such out to be best invest- age of varlety, wor flerent colors new appearance is not necessarily ust because she black length walist evening dresses are cut pretty they are t to the that are > very d, it is 3 he pretty shoes 1 that woman wears the in- feature of the res- as of the street for the evening asions. No more day skirts but it will g days, at nksgiv- a dinner at there are gowns that are ideal, er too showy nor toc plain. And in hostess must be- her own , for she knows her guests and sure that she never over- nor is yet too conspicuously plain. New York hostesses adopt the dressing either in white or in and many draw a still finer line. sions at home, when they are to act the , and the white gown for ning. t the Thanksgiving hostess, when en- ining her near friends can give her- more leeway. She can choose ahy the soft tones that are well known to appropriate for the house and can be gown herself simply though very taste- fully in them. A Harvest Home Gown. A lovely gown is a dress which is bullt in the harvest home tones. The skirt, which is in pale brown velling, or in something a little heavier, 1s made with a skirt which is slightty sweep length, neither too short nor too long. It is trim- med around the bottom with rows of rib- bon two inches wide: and there are six rows of the rivuon arranged in groups of THE SUNDAY,K CALL. An .Erenbw CoiFfure With | N\ Deceralions, \ \\ three. Cashmere is also pretty for this Ppurpose, But the feature of the skirt is its em- broidery. A very profuse and very elab- orate design in wheat ears is worked upon the gown in such a way that the design runs all the way around the skirt. Thers is a trimming of wheat cetween the rows of ribbon, and at the head of the ribbon there is a very wide, very elaborate em- broidery of wheat. The same design is seen on the sleeves. The cuffs are deep and are funnel shaped and embroidered with wheat heads. Above the cuffs there are great melon shaped pleces gathered at the back to form a very full sleeve. The sleeve is banded with two-inch wide rows of ribbon. The top of the sleeve is a mass of tuck- ing and embroidery and the embroldery extends over the shoulder cap and up on the shoulder and yoke. The waist itself, too, is a symphony in A Lace Gowrn Cavahl Te e - Lattice of Ribbors. i i et harvest home oolors, for, n the walst, which is & pfl»mwn.?hen are em- broidered wheat stems and wheat heads in shaded colors, changing from the deep- er shades of yellow to the paler ones, A touch of scarlet is an excellent thing in the Thanksgiving dinner gown. There are very elaborate little scarlet stocks and there are handsome Persian neck and wrist bands. Coral beads are very showy upon a house dress and great strands of coral hang from the neck right down to the belt. Knots of scarlet ribbon adorn the throat and a great many stocks have knots of scarlet ribbon at the back of the neck as well as under the chin. In fact, the little ribbon chou plays a very im- portant part In the house d; changing it, coloring it, subdulng it and bringing it into harmony with whatever color scheme may be desired. The New Ribbon Trimmings. The extent to which the modistes are carrying ribbon trimming cannot be fully understood by the one who has not made .& study of the subject. Ribbon is used for beiting which ter- minates In a fat little chou; and from this chou is carried a little loop of rib- bon up to another chou, and another loop connects it with another chou further up on the waist, untll the whole terminates in a very neat little ribbon ornament at the side of the collar. Then ribbon is used as a band trim- ming and is put on, not as a ruffle, nor a a flat band sewed upon each edge, but it is attached along the upper edge and {s trimmed with a strange little fagot pattern. Fagoting is very fashionable, used as the heading for a band of rib- bon; and some of the prettiest ribbon trimmings are doubled, sewed along the upper edge and handsomely fagotted. The Thanksgiving hostess must not for- get the new sleeve, which Is now seen 11 ! wherever thers is a nice gown. The sleeve shows the fullness below the elbow, for it swells out In a great melon-shaped puff. But the fullness, instead of sagging, is so arranged that It bags out in a great puffy shape, which is sometimes gathered into the cuff and sometimes laid in folds. All the fullness is at the back of the sleeve, and the fuller it is the better from fashion’s standpoint. The great and particular feature of the fuliness is the manner in which it is stuft- ed out, for it no longer falls flat and baggy below the hand. On the contrary, it sets out in very smart shape, and to keep its fullness there are employed all sorts of de- vices, one of which is that of stufiing the fullness with tissue pgper after the sleeve is on Another shows a stiffening of crinoline; another sleeve is stiffened with a silk fn- terlining, which holds it out sharply in place. The day of the saggy, baggy sleeve puff has gone out and has been succeeded by the sleeve puff which is fully stiffened. In the Fashionable World. For such dinners as are given Thanks- glving evening by the fashionable set there are marvelous gowns i lace, abun- dantly trimmed with ribbon. The lace, which is not of an expensive sort, has its pattern supplemented with a ribbon swirl, which is carried all over the gown, ing a very decorative plece of work, that is at first puzziing, for it does not show what it is upon its face. A gown which will be worn Thanksgiv- ing night is made of lace, put together in very wide strips, tully a third of a yard in width. These strips are connected with a network of narrow white velvet sibbon. This network is interwoven and Interlaced until it makes a very respectable lattice. The lace gown should not be a gathered affalr, for the gathers destroy the beauty and the design of the lace. On the con- trary, it should be extremely plain and should be fitted to the hips and around the figure, and should be continued in one long, unbroken line to the end of the train. It is hardly possible to make the lace gown too tight fitting. The foot of the skirt can be trimmed with a very deep flounce, and the flounce can be put en in such a manner that it lengthens the skirt and looks like a part of it, instead of serving as a flounce. The Thanksgiving hostess can do a great deal with tulle for the full virtues of this matevial, as an accessory of dress and as an ornament, have never been so fully exploited as now. Take a large double chou of tulle and fasten it upon the front of the bodice, drawing it out so that it reaches from the neck very nearly to the belt, and a very nice vest-like ef- fect is created. The Uses of Tulle. A lovely front for an evening waist was made of pink tulle in a faint shade of shell. The bows and ends were arranged in group fashion upon the bust, then drawn out and pulled down and spread out with each small bow and each end se- cured with a little pink shell pin. At the throat there was a big pink brooch. Tulle at the back of the neck has be- come @ standby of fashion and the tulle chou, fastening just atthe nape of the neck, is both becoming and necessary in certain cases. It fills a gap created by the high coiffure and lends a soft becom- ingness to the long thin neck which could not be supplied In positively any other manner. The tulle vest front, with loops and ends spread out; the tulie chou at the back of the neck, the tulle bow for the hair and the little tulle rosettes that are now em- ployed to trim gowns of veiling. gowns of other house stuffs, and gowns of lace, are e\ Goxvrr Ira Zara Color -erev. th/a | ) ??fifintln Z " all numbered among the pretty things of the season. The fancy for the elbow sleeve ls grow- ing and, oh! so many house dresses have this kind of a sleeve. It is not an abrupt sleeve, but one that is cut off at the el- bow and finished with a frill of lace long enough to reach very nearly to the hand. Thers are eibow sieeves which are fin- fshed at the elbow, or g littls below it, with a bias ruffle of silk; and there are elbow sleeves that are completed with a tulle ruffie over which lace falls in very becoming fashion. The square evening neck is another of the new things of the season, for it is & neck that is built, not in the old, conven- tional fashion, but in a decidedly novel manner, for it is simply cut square at the throat and high over the shoulders and semi-low in the back of the neck. Indeed, so modified is this square neclt that it cannot be called s low neck at all, but a neck that is squared out, and as such it can be worn just as well for day as for evening. A great many of these necks are built entirely for day gowns and are to be put on when the sun shines as well as when it has gone to rest. This wearing of the low neck is & new feature and is another of the revivals of the year. Fifty years ago it was no nov- elty to see an afternoon dress with low neck, or with the rounded throat. And again that style has come in. It is in to a greater extent than one would imagine, and a great many hostesses are bullding their house dresses with necks that are either prettily curved in round fsshion or are cut down almost to the “salt cellars™ of the neck. Of course, none are decid- edly decollete, but are more on the rounding type, or the square type, cut away so as to reveal the throat prettily. And why should not the gowns be cut away in this fashion? There is no reason why the neck should be covered any more than the face or hands; and the new gowns that expose the throat are pretty, sensible, becoming and certainly on the order of novelty, and novelty is what every one seeks. The woman who knows anything at all about ecdhomy will so arran, her din- ner gown that it can be worn either for day occasions or for evening. The French have a very pretty way of making & gown so that its yoke and vest can be removed. The sleeves, which are long, are sewed into the shoulder seam and are not re- movable. But the yoke can be slipped out and the vest comes out with it. This creates a low necked evening gown at once. When desired the vest and yoke can be put back in and the result is a day gown, suitable for dinner In the mid- dle of the day if necessary or for any bouse occasion by day. The Thanksgiving hostess can wear many new features of dress, and one of her available noveities is noticed in the lace paneling with which her dress can be trimmed. Very narrow lace, running from half an inch to two inches in width, can he extended up and down the skirt in such a manner as to cover the seams. There can be half a dozen panels, or & dozen, according to the gown. It is an era in the fashion world when a great deal of work is put upon a gownm, not alone when is being made, but all during its career. Many handsome dresses are built in such a manner that they must be sewed up the back each time they are put on, for it is now fash- jonable to conceal the opening in the w .st. And the gown can be made to fasten invisibly only in tnis manner. The Thanksgiving hostess, if she would bé dressed smartly, must be willing te g0 to some trouble,