The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 1, 1903, Page 10

‘"THE SUNDAY CAL v . stume which was rer’s white gown Paris X was. peau de x 3¢ e, with whité, pear white, white, dead white rse No uffs the shades naving v the ew Duch hess of Marl g r than J wavs wears g ess of rming in her Pa- she dresses a great k and mauve and Manchester wears It nds and is 1 come evening William hess of ’~ The woman who Is not'a Duchess, and whe is not going to be a Duchess, can weat pretiy gowns this winter just the same, “for there Was never a .year when #0 much could be done by home talent. 4nd In no field is this so tree as in' that occupled by woman'sp evening dress. To 5 dress proctily in the evening is within the reach of all, even though the gown be a simple one made by hand at home, instead.of an imported ‘creation made by & Parls dressmaker. 3 5 For it 1s not always the imported gown that s the bandsomest; and the woman who t alent in her needle and whe'ls ed of good taste’ will tell you thi frequint has made“for i y \ing wa high ‘e ed in ‘point f aut she séen for s in the xpensive wardrobes Lovely Evening Wai =tk s. articularly & true 6f the new blouse o t walst, A lovely wa'st was exhibited-a few even: and 14 say that it ‘won wordy is to speak very feebly. of its waist was madg in a very and its material was a very £oft silk resembling. liberty, It was cu with a'shirred yoke there was dra ed a little fi This was ¢ 0 of pretiy 1ght on either shoulder with a large pink shell butten, and again lace. upon the watst until {{ festooned the front of, the waist in little loops of lace The ‘sleeves were very Jarge below the elbow, but, instead of. drogping, they were stiffened so 2 to set out smartl At the wrist, or & little above it, the sleeves wer cut off short and into the sieeve there was set a fall of lace which was considerably deeper at the back of.the hand than on top. A big pink shell button was on top of the wrist The tendency 1a the evening walst is to do away with the shirt walst ‘effeet and * to make the waist more on the order-af the bodice. This is easily accomplished by fitting the .waist closely and by making the sides as snug as the back. The frant can sag ever o little over the ‘belt, but it must not by any means bag, for only a, very little fullness is allowed. Miss Roosevelt wears some very pretty evening dresses, one of her recent- ones being in pale blue veiling trimmed with" ecru lace. Her gowns though pretty, are never very elaborate and they furnish ‘a lesson to those ‘Who g0 In for'very mag- nificent-effects. Yet her gowns are always- good and this particular one, wiich showed a short skirt of blue veillng with bands of ecru lace set in dround the skirt, part way up, and & walst that was halt lace and half .velling, was extremely pretty. Gowns Growing ‘Short g 1t is a rather remarkable'ract that even- ing dresses are growing a little shorter, Instead of being’ of the sweep length which they formerly were they are grad- ually coming to be of walking .length. They are cut off about half an inch from the floor, just so they swing clear of the carpet. 2 One of the most elegant evehing gowns while across the bust ! “of ‘varieties. .the fabri ‘wais made_of blaé ck_lace. "The-skirt; ‘whieh was cut off. néarly an-ipch oor-arid ‘was banded with-blaek lace: afeung -the Knebs and” around the. Inps, “THe Waist. was: in: black -mousséline with ighg panel <t W ranning down: édch side of thé.front:and. . . bavk. . % £ i g . 3 . Many - of the _new skirt “very raie that -¥ou can scarcely 1611 how. ie, . Not. that “they: are *s¢ " u wagnitident ih matertal but {kat ihey aye 50" beautitully made and wiih ‘sach” deep, ach smalt detail, Many of -¢vival of (he nd thi which is made of iferel Al, infolds. a8 the wearcr moves ibout The shaded goods are still in style and ‘uwigreat:many of the shaded shks Wwill b E this winter.. But. after .all. when you stiidy the .styles you :will notiee that there are. half a dozen plain silks to o ded and ‘that. the " pliin 1k My better tham thes show shifting lights. 5 Silk i cheap that woman buy taffeta or libérty or panne gk for a badice, ‘and s for. laces they. wers never quite so low.’ them of the most beautiful textyre and of the lovéliest designs. makivg them ideal for trimmings. The Tenerifre i will be worn all winter and’ so will ik fine valericiennes laces-and the imitations coarse, laces attentien to -, them show a fan, a Tup reg 80 alm ean are as well .ag of the -fine The Evening Hats. FOR - AN EVERING ‘mnus:. -irtmmed A few of - “While shifrings and plaitings and -nar- Tow,"t s ard siender pipings lead in popU grity, Etiil there are other ways of ‘trimming. the bvenink gown, énd one of these is ¥ de hands of decorated silk gh I{.wis intended for winter ‘wear,” was -trimmed with three bands of siK, ‘which extended across the front. The tre’ cot im serol shape upon the r_ahd the lower edge applied plain cach edge there was a great fagot titcl embroidery. " Tiny beads in erystal ng -and in turqueise peppered the silk. Another Btuff, was w this one’ of some thin anded acrpss the front with thrce-inch 1ands of ecru lacé which was studded With littie French knots in black and white and_blue, Still another was mmed with horizontal bands which were made of silk shirred upon each edge. Rithon as a Trimming. Ribbon makes a very nice trimming. It 4 great deal upon evening waists and is appiied in various ways. They take riblon and plait it; they take it'and shirr it along one tdge to make a little ruffle; they take it and shirr it along both edges to make a little puff; they take it and gather it down center to make & sort.of double ruff, and they take It and it: Ribbon 1§ uscd in many, many fs’ used ruche “ways, and in neafly. every case it 1s very - gdiod indeed Then, too, there are numerous kinds of of the, prettiest being the ribben, one " § § ribbon with the stripes running The flqw(rn‘ that bleom i, the spring.. .- Then comes the vary thin have reversed (heir, habits and have- ith transparent stripes, and rib. taken io-blooming In the fall. -If you look .. wien very heavy satin stripes; and abeut you will ndtice that the half of the: y ore fs ribbon which shows a Hgure and winter hats are trimmed with flowers and . which, when made (up, ‘looks precisely with-leaves, and that -the gay colo ot~“kq brocaded silk . Never were ribbons Easter are seen- new “pon the hat: November. - Evening hats are r flowers and chiffons, . is the floral feature to be. noticed in the fur hats which show a big red rose nestling in the fur. ‘And partieu- larly is this frue also of .the hats of chif- fon and velvet which have a bunch of deep red roses in the velvet faops. But if the hats of winter show an abundance of roses,"what shall be said of s of winter. One handsome si k dress 'material, was really a network of roses in pink and red and white, and an- other was a mass of carnations, all gath- ered in prim bunches npon the surface. It seems as though flowers made the pret- Uest of all decorations for silk and other * material and as if the world of fashion were coming to realize this as never be- of. glorivus in fere. §o -pretty nor so nicely adapted for. trim- mings, g The fancy for making whole bodice and skirt decarations of looped ribbon rather grows in popular favor, and you see a modiste working dpon a set of ribbon choux of all sizes, which are to be dis- tributed all over a gown and connected with loops of ribbon. It Is'a pretty and a very decorative idea. The Duchesg May will frequently wear a princess gown when she changes from being a plain American girl to the Duch. ess of Roxburghe. One of her evening gowns Is particularly lovely and particu- larly becoming. It is built of old tur- quoise nun's velling. Old turquoise, by the way, is & new color and s copled after the old turquoise that have turned green. The green is a pale metallic shade né& warst, which is madeof * that goes avell with -white. The -gown f§ cut with a walst, though it is a -princess gown, the walst being- very high and very snug, much on the empire style, It-is outlined with a very narrow band- of silvered passementeris and there Is.another band .of it high around the bust. .- ¢ Two Dinner Gowns. i The skirt is plain, save for two ruffles of embroidered chiffen around ‘the foot, with a band of silvered passementerie at the head. Pancls of lace are sét upon the .skirt from the high short waist down to the chiffon ruffles. Another gowp, a dinner gown, Is cut with a- square neck and long lace sleeves, This gown is in heavy white peau de sole, trimmed with- very narrow panels of black lace. The skirt, which is many gored, is finished with big emhbroldered bunches of wheat and leaves. This fashion of embroidering the gores of the skirt in such a way that there 1s an embroldered figure at the foat of cvery 4 > ’ Dt X gore 18 a charming one. - % touch of noveilty to the 3 introduces a color sc T y shades In ‘which the flowers ar A ered dress out the gown a 8 Specially lovely are the n - of glazed silk with a very s»p 8 em broldered in them. T fis A b .is not bigger than a full gr s tered all over the gown g a polka dot, but is much more a cause it is not quite so regula design eed any modistes v ! e rer t - of different size, s o the size shot te siz a lozenge. For evening there Is a cleve n ming of lovers’ knots. These are made velvet ribbon two Inches in width a folned together by ribben b are half a dozen In all, use them for eve ture. They can be arranged at tt at each side and one In the mid back, while two or three m to trim the left this ribbon gar ekirt and a | knots can fall across the skl It Is an easy ing gown Into pr garnitures are so ful. Flounces can be of lace. and bands of the skirt and and th g as a pan ate 0. the walst, A woman who ow: deép b gown Insists upon baving two with it, one & high-necked walst with shirt walst fashion, dinners. When she desir by taking a pane at the bust, can the skirt. She e few deft stitch skirt so that it completely a of I let it fall to tb in, and t se gown. It is th w mar a wa A very good luced long str k wearing of a secured in the bac with g w ied Jeweied orn such as a chain retic r thu in th 18 the as any Some of the new shirt w feature that one sees few ar are ex priced. Yet it at copled by ste sists of a front g of ribd usually lace, w extended -d front in long ends that h t I e cor the belt ends Is cl the ends har with their b Fringed ends see fringes of all Whole boxes of trimmings form a girl’s- outfit. These littlé lace bows, which -ar A as bows, more as la them being fat and loag aud RAIN-DROW TAFFE T A —OR WINTER EVENINGS plaitéed to make lttle faney decorations for the bodice. These little lace trimmings are fastened upon the bodice with fancy pins and, in this way, a very plain bodice can be won- derfuilly dressed up. . Fasten a little lace orngment upon eac side of the front of your bedice w turquoise buckle, and at the belt.fa: two more and.you will, alj of a have.a st that ry prett med. ame style."of orna be put upon the sleeves and of the netk. It was predicted that, with_t of the shirt-waist suit, the s s vé waist would go. But s > far from it. On the v waist e 8 and,” jv 4 prices will Ge But soclety girls arts and have classes ip embro nice needlework, including and the art appliques. Truly that hand work is to stay In lost n styls, and that the waists of fall and winter will be carried out more elaborately than ever before %‘_ ———————— e — L ———— . T