The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 18, 1903, Page 11

- THE SUNDAY CALL. 11 ARTE ST SMART POINTED ~ATN = r ST ANE SR URS are an absoclute necessity these days, that is, if you would pat- tern after la belle France. Not for the actual warmth, for in this cli- te they are more of a luxury hing else, but for the stunning 4 the natty touch that they in- lend. f cloudy day of early fall makes artest of summer frocks look it is straightway uppermost of every woman who takes the = est interest in being well gown- to freshen and brighten up her rusty war a e it last until the win- ter s are fairly fashioned. If she be wise she will naturally turn to fu r it is not only wonderfully be- coming and suitable, but it possesses the haj t of toning down crudities better t ything else, and really wk £10p to consider all things is n pensive than a host of fragile, per " s and furbelows. 2w it of fur, whether it is & boa, & stole or c is good as long s it s never any sham abput air of stapleness that s m € and cheering. It is like @ good investment, for _ in the it will pay for itself, {( f course velties—and they are more ofa ever this year—are more or less an extravagance. In the first place, they are always certain to cost more and ere & something to rejoice exceedingly over to-day and to shed briny tears over to-morrow. It matters not one whit how valuable or how rare they may be, all extremes are bound to look queer and old fashioned after they have passed utterly from vogue. But, nevertheless, they are PHOTOUV”;:: B> R ' MARTES'T OF THE V' MART IN B ol t ali smmptations. There wes a time, and not very far dis- tant, “either, when the combination of ‘fur and lace on an evening gown was considered unique and distinctly faddy, but it is the sudden rage of the hour, in fact, the oorrect thing to wear a soft, flimsy, billowy frock and in place of the all-enveloping cloak, to throw an ermine cape about the shoulders and to ride gayly off to dinner so equipped. Certainly warmth is not even dreamed of, for the white silk cord and tassels that fasten the cape together are but a 4 pretty pretext, and the arms and neck gflfl 1 are left almost bare. But there is a look ?l 'y('{ about the soft, regal fur that no tatlor, [ 0I4| (7 no matter how clever, could ever hope to Y(/l-d % rival, and milady rolls away in a state Pflflfiff of exultation and trusts that her pride (4 will keep her snug and rosy. In her lap, tucked under her chin or waving in the alr is a great, oval muff and she deliberately uses it in fifty co- quettish ways, never keeping it quite long enough to derive any read benefit, but al- ways flirting outrageously with it for all the world as the little Jap Jappy does with her fan. In fact, the fascinating muff has taken the place of the fan to a great extent. In the afternoon it is there, at dinner it is still In evidence and during the dance it is more than likely to bob up serenely every now and then, although, to be sure, it is more of a plaything than anything else. Yet never before in the history of muifs has there been such a great, uni- SQLI\RREL. WITTH CorRD AND LaceE SEVERE SRro. TAIL StoLg ™ AND MUEF NATTY COMBINATION OF FUR _AND | TERMINE wRAR LACE s TO TAKE THE PLAacsE o EVENMS T AN e NOVEL 7~ SQUIRTEEL_. A~ ERMINE BiLouSe versal demand for them. In all conocelv- abls furs, In every possible color and in all shapes you may find them, and at almost any price, tco, so there really is not a shadow of an excuse for not own- ing one, especially as no chic costums seems quite complete without its finish¥, ing touches. Squirrel is a light, ing wear, particularly when its only use s to add piquancy. An especially fetch- ing stole is fashiomed somewhat like an old fashioned collar, broad and fitted In the back, tapering enough to the front to be gathered into a bright silver clasp with & fall of soft, yellow lace, and then widening to some eight or ten inches and gracefully to the bottom of the fur for even- Another swell one is made of chin- chilla. Just a plain, wee bit of a cape with long floating ends to give length, but the smartness comes from the lace that peeps out at every opportunity. All around the cape it circles and then rip- ples in great cascades down the front, ‘where it is lost in the billows about the feot. For those who affect black there is the Persian lamb and the more expensive broad tail, and when they are well cut they are a source of perfect satisfaction. While they are sweet and dainty, there is no getting away from the fact that ermine, squirrel and chinchilla soil easily and frequently color a pecullar yellow, which means frequent trips to the fur- rier, but fortunately little expense; but the lamb is just as good and as fresh at the end of a winter as it was In the beginning, and where the art of economy must be studled is a far more satisfac- tory fur to buy. But after all sable is the fur of furs and 1§ the only one o wear if you have a long, golden-lined pocketbook, other- wise don't ralse your hopes above seal. A tiny boa, that would be conaidered skimpy and miserably mean in anything else, runs into the hundreds of dollars, and a coat of ordinary length and make costs well into the thousands. But it is worth every dollar if the price is not a necessary and annoying consideration. The warm browns, blending from one shade to another, the exquisite texturs and its wonderful pliability make it one of the most becoming furs that can ever be worn. And there is no danger whatever of its getting common.. Well, rather not. Where one in a hundred can afford seal, one in a thousand can buy sable, and then more than likely but a collar and cuffs. One of the most attractive sable novel- ties is patterned from your great grand- mother’'s cape, the only exception being in the collar and tall trimmings. In cut it 18 severely plain and rather tight fit- ting about the shoulders, coming about to the elbow In length, and having the stole effect in front. In itself it would be rare because of the fur, but all about it, tumbling here and there are a multitude of tails that make It a stunning gar- ment to be worn only by a superbly gowned woman. Last winter was decidedly and em- phatically & white one, Everything—frock, coat and hat—ell expressed the same tone, but this fall fickls Dame Fashion has veered about and shown & preference for soft pinks, baby biues and delicats greens. Instead of the white coat she has set her mind and heart on jackets, blouses and whatnots of soft, light furs, and the girl who is iortunate enough to possess such a garment finds herself thrice blessed. Of all squirrel is about the cheapest and the most effective. The soft Russian blouse, belted with & bit of satin ribbon and clasped with a jeweled bueckle, is far more suitable for all occasions than s the white broadcloth. In the afternocon it is much less conspicuous; although not less handsome; it is infinitely more appro- priate with a silk dinner gown, and to all intents and purposes answers quite as well in the late evening. The girl who wants a blouse entirely for evening wear can change its appearance radically by adding broad revers and wide cuffs of ermine, but as soon as the fur of royalty is added it is the worst possible taste to don it before § o’clock. Seal always has been and probably al- ways will be a wonderfully popular fur on account of its great durabllity and its delightful softness, and besides, it is not the most expensive by any manner of means. A staple jacket, such as is worn year in and year out, can always be re- lled upon. and when it rubs and looks worn it can be made over and over and will look fresh and new for years. Finally, when it gets utterly hopeless, it can be shipped to London and re-dyed and there you are again as ot and as fine as a dalsy. Pointed Russian sable is somewhat of a novelty, but such an elegant one that there will never be the slightest danger of its ever going out. It is a blended fur and the tiny white hairs that dot it so thickly are all put in by hand time, the labor and the gr takes. Hour by hour, mo and year in and year out peasants sit and stolidly cater to aa idle whim of capriclous women. Fur fashions are more or less Influenced by the prevailing cut of the day and now and then you may see a swell afternocon coat of Persian lamb and trimmed with a contrasting fur, bullt on the military effect. It is long and graceful, generally belted in, although not always, with a bit of black silk elastic that holds the walst line firmly in place. And, by the way, elastio is an entirely new wrinkle. The new buckles that fit into the curve of the back are responsible for it, in a measure, although If you ever tried to match fur, especially after it has been worn a 1 and changed its color, you would appreciate what a blessing in disgwise it really is. It comes in almost any width, but generally about three- quarters of an inch 18 best liked; it fits snugly and gives a good curve to the waist that is oft got heavy fur ga fords a decided an It goes without s r every description are always in demand and they possess the happy knack of dressing up a plain tallor suit and making one feel most comfortable. The great bear ones, both black and brown, are a splendid Investment as a good drenching and & vigorous beating only seems to da them good. From early morning until late at night, and with all manner of gowns, they are appropriate, smart and warm and they never look as though they bad been a part of your wardrebe half a century ago. This s to be a fur winter, and especially of the light ones, and have them you must or be most wofully behind the ttmes, Bo, miladl, be absolutely reckless in trim- ming & hat or even a gown, for ne matter how it is done, thers is no possibility of making a mistake. and there is every probablility of leoking much bete ter gowned than your next door neighbor. Z