The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 12, 1903, Page 12

INDAY CALL By Allen V. Gillespls. IN A. ABBEY, the American st who is painting the corona-~ was once asked by er what was the hardest f his art | women as models,” ure, who volced the univer- emong painters, the pho- se sole business is to supply reasing ands of {llustrat- dvertisement bu f beautiful women, wide and long for a e a Y fier modern Helens leads - e ty photographers to do strange - Advertising for Models. for two months the right sort of beauty for an t for & champagne house, his showcase a glaring sign, after hun women will be paid liberally photographs.” eccording to the pho- ry woman who passed then bolted upstairs r two weeks his place th women who believed s of loveliness, and called the photog- horrid brute” when he their style of not suited to the work in an. the morning of the day that er, in despalr, had decided e quest for the golden girl rkling-eyed, chestnut- ed and vivaclous girl seventeen summers tripped the photographer and tened sort of way: “For minutes,” sald the pho- tographer, “I stared at that child. It was rude, but I couldn’t help it. After two weeks of gazing at streams of distorted ugliness I couldn’t keep my eyes from feasting on that dainty bit of beauty. v " CLASS? PISE. I Ul < % ‘When I &14 recover my senses and real- 1zed my rudeness I apologized profusely, and then photographed her.” That was half a year ago; to-day this giri@is earning as much as $40 and $50 a week, simply by posing before the camera. And she does not work more than four hours a day on the average at that. She is enabled “to make this com- isrtable income because she possesses, in toto, the requirements of an ideal model— beauty of face and figure, however she may be placed before the camera; grace and litheness; winsomeness; patience and power to hold all sorts of poses, and in- telligence and abllity to adapt herself to the pose—to act tpe part, and not merely serve as a rack for the gorgeous bedeck- ments of the girl of soclety. Searching for Models in Streets and Bhops. One beauty photographer, who in the last twelve months posed 3000 different models, says that he found among the number less than fifty who came any- where near the ideal standard. This man, like his fellows, makes a systematic search of the shops, the places of amusement, the streets and even the churches for models. One beauty, who has taken New York by storm and who is now posing for Sev- eral statues for the St. Louis World's Fair, was discovered in this way. The photographer was walking along | SBIT e WITHA 4 YoUTHFIL M7 { one day, peering into the faces N / s 2N the street of passing women, when the girl in ques- tion flashed down upon him. His trained e at once told him that she would make @ model far above the ordinary and he turned around and followed her until she stopped before a shop window to inspect the display. Here was his opportunity. Walking up to her he sald: “Beg your pardon, but I am a profes- sional photographer in search of beautiful aodels. I have—ah—been attracted by your—ah—delicate type of beauty, and I— ah—would like—propose that you—er—you —will you pose for me?”’ The girl at first was inclined to be in- dignant and was on the point of calling & policeman, when the man’'s all too evi- dent embarrassment conyinced her of his good intentions, and she burst out laugh- ing. Her display of merriment over, she sald she’d “ask mamma,” and the result was tlat a few days later she appeared in the photographer’s studlo. Her first poses made her career. Other photographers and artists beheld the pic- tures, waxed enthusiastic, hunted up the original, and swamped her with orders. And on the top of it all a well known theatrical manager sent for her and of- fered her a remunerative place in the beauty line of his star company. Stores the Best Source for Models. This i{s not an exceptional case. “Of the thirty or forty models that I with,” sald a photog- rapher, “nearly every one has been found Let's see. I can recall that I secured seven of them by ap- proaching them in the street, at the im- minent risk of being taken as an insulter. In the stores I got twice that number, but there the task is not so delicate. A wo- man behind a counter does not have the fear of the masher that the woman walk- ing along the street possesses. Several of the rest I engaged at the theaters, where mv wife and I go four times a week solely to scan the choruses for sult- able material. “Fact 1s, the big stores are the best places to secure beautiful girls, and the majority of the most used models are graduates from the men's furnishing and perfume counters. They far outnumber the actress models, popular opinion to the contrary notwithstanding. “The young, vivacious and pretty act- ress makes a good model when she is scarcely more than a beginner behind the footlights. But after two or three years she loses her natural bloom, owing to hard work and the {rregular life, and then she can no longer be suitable for an all- round subject. It's too bad, for an actress requires no training in héw to act the part and how to lend herself graceful- am now working in this manner. 1y to the subject in hand.” Many & popular model is the product ot weeks of patient tofl on the part of some photographer who was attracted by her beauty of face and figure and took upon himself the task of giving her grace and winsomeness. This is almost as hard as finding beau- ty. Often before the model is trained the photographer has wasted as much as §100 worth of plates on her. ‘When she is finally rendered perfect the photographer reaps his reward for a month or two. Then his rivals and the artists who are always frantically search- {ng for subjects see her pictures, realize that a new beauty has arrived, hunt her up, and proceed to tempt her away from the man who brought her out. This 18 an almost inevitable result, and it Is the most telling argument that a pretty, vivecious, graceful and adaptable girl, anywhere between 17 and 23 years, who wants to earn her own living in a comtortable way, can do it to the amount of at least $40 weekly by turning photo- graphic model. The nearer she is 17 the better, and if she is a beauty of the Ceitic tipe and will not detract from the sparkle of her eyes, the spring of her step and the ruddy glow of her cheeks by 55 ELOIE TLR&GUSON, 4 NoTEL NEW YORK, MoDEL, A3 A WERLTY DSOCIETY LEADER Photographers spend their time looking for them on the streets, in stores, at the thea- ters and even in the churches, and when found they are im- plored to turn photographic models for illustrated publica- tions and advertisements. So scarce are beautiful and adapt- able models that one perfectly equipped can earn as much as $50 a week, working only four hours a day. How one photog- repher secured a model by hanging out a sign that in- vited all beautiful women to step into his studio and be photographed free. e e ———————————eee e Startling and Gay Is My Lady’s HE summer costumes are certain- ly gay from standpoint of color, and, though black and white dresses predominate, or dresses that are either all of black or all of white, there are a great many of the more lively costumes to set off the ward- robe. Even navy blue is enlivened by Armen- ian embroideries and by Oriental trim- mings that combine every color under the sun. A lovely navy blue taffeta shirt waist suit had a deep sailor collar of white can- vas, trimmed with Armenian embroidery, and there were deep cuffs trimmed in the same way. There was a belt of the same stuff and the hat was a red chip trimmed with many ruchings and folds of red chiffon. Summer Costume Chiffon is not necessarily a frail fabric any longer for it comes in various grades. It is quite heavy and durable in oer- tain welghts and seems specially suited for seashore wear. Crepe de chine, that favorite of women, is also made in dif- ferent grades and you can get & really durable crepe de chine these days, one that will make up becomingly-and eco- nomically Into a shirt walst, without pay- ing too high a price for it. White crepe de chine, trimmed with Oriental trimmings, is a very pretty thing and a white crepe de chine shirt walst suit with tucked shirt, tucked walst and tucked sleeves will be charming all sum- mer for nice wear. It can have three bands of Orfental embroidery around the skirt, these bands being placed, one around the bottom, one around the mid- dle of the skirt, and one around the yoke. A folded girdle of the embroidery is very favoring social pleasures above sleep s2e will.add considerably to that sum. All beautiful girls aspiring to be mod- els, should, however, bear this in mind— that many a beauty is not beautiful in & photograph. The photographers have found this out by bitter and costly experience. They no longer grow enraptured over every fine- looking woman they meet; they re- serve their praises and their films for her whose beauty has that indefinable es- sence that cannot be lost during the va- rious stages of photography. She it Is who 1s searched for the country over, and, when found, the land Is straightway flooded with her likenesses in a multitude of poses and studies. Bcarce as are women models, child models are scarcer. When a good one is fournd, he, like the women, is usually of the middle walk of life, due, the pho- tographers hold, to the fact that the en- vironments of this class are more normal than those of either the rich or the poor. The child’s knack to pose also not in- frequently lands him on the stage In spectacles when theatrical managers be- come aware of his innate ability. (Copyright, 1903, by Allen V. Gillespie.) AT CHILD 17OCLL- mNows HIS B HO pretty and the walst oan be trimmed with bands ef it. The d fop of the ha ettt the face. e e with flowers or in.this case ls trimme with folds of silk. While the flat hat Is style the tilted hat coming that women I 1 ence to the hat that sets fi at of the head. The til hat h of the crown lifted v unddubted one \f the brim is alsc 2 a very pretty sweep for the br hat is very becoming to & P type beauty. 5 Many of the shirt waist hats are p with flowers t fusely thought parti s hat, the trimmings and of a color, making a red hats are good: S0 @ hats, while the lilac hats, t trying to the « from fashion's stan art to have the f! alarly pretty st and p can come ou gives color to the cheeks and dee complexion. The shirt waist belt passing, for the One of the sma straps upon the t and to run a belt through these straps. in front with a brass barn A style of belt that is | taking & wide plece of ing it through worked r belt is now & pretty buc of the walst with The stitched belts of silk in colors are worn, and so are the stitched belts of linen, They are very neat and, not be- ing expensive, they can be thrown away when sofled. There is a belt that grows upon popular fancy and this is the wide belt of satin ribb slide at the back and & D the front. You must, to be tho touch with the world of your shirt waist buttons mat buckle and you m to have a fancy pin matching both upon your hat. LIFE OF THE SHIP IN THE STOKEHOLD HE work of eternally pushing the old ship on past the meridians, the race against time and the sun and the interest on the money, begins in the gloomy stoke-hold. You have heard that the stoke-hold hot, and when you have clambered into it over dis- orderly plles of 1 oking as steadying yourself by ta hold of burning handrails, the first time face to face W naces, you feel assured of besides being hot, is th interesting part of the ship whole life. You must spend years studying it be you can stand thers in command watch with your hand on tb valves, your eyes on everyt and keep the steam up W in spite of the ravenous eng! it away from you tell, In one swift man is burning the coal per hour in his amount of waste The problem is Brooks In Scribn large quantity of wa ually changing, bulld thirty by means of them, notwithstanding must all be continually replenished fresh coal and freed from ashes, k at & perfectly even a very few degrees) da indefinite period. The ga esting because a ship ca spare more than just bare for her propelling ma .y everything—engines, b must be worked to the very capacity. The game goes as regularly by tur and In cycles as progressive whist ing with a few fires first in order, doors are opened to admit a few sh fuls of coal thrown quickly into the fromt of the furnaces, then closed again as soon as sible lest too much cold alr should ent As socn as they are closed the fires next in order are served in the same way, end then a third group. Next the = " coal in the first fires is raked back through the furnaces to complete its combustion. After another short inter- val it is necessary to “slice” them—that is, probe them with long pointed bars te 1ft the clinkers from the grates and make air passages. Finally it is time to stoke again. is fires —_—— Fish Ejected by Volcanoes. The stories of dead fish thrown eut by wvolcanoes have been revived by the re- cent West India catastrophes. In partio- ular, great quantities of them are reporte ed to have been cast into the sea from the island of Bt. Vincent. It is pointed out by a French expert, M. Girardin, that these fish are simply denizens of the lakes formed in the craters during their long periods of inactivity. A crater first be- comes clogged, then fills with water and \\_,‘ INES the water is In time peopled with fish that find access to it through subter- ranean channels. When voleanic activity s resumed, the first thing that occurs is an explosion that blows the lake—water, fish and all—-into the air and distributes it over the neighboring land and water