The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 17, 1903, Page 14

14 S TAYFTORD STCE2TO 2FOTOS LOTHES! Clothes! Will there ever time when the world of femi- nity will not be entirely engrossed t ery oid but always interest- ing subject of frocks? Will thers ever ¢ a time when they will not be the t of five o'clock teas and one o'clock luncheons, to the exclusion of all else Be this said in thelr defense, if there is need at they have, at least, the sausfa being a necessity, and every fr nd furbeluw that is put on @dds just that much more to its wearer's peace of mind. Besides this, 2 woman would be but half a woman if all the dainty, fluffy nothings that finish her wardrobe so completely were missing. Men can talk, argue and sometimes even g0 ®o far as to forget their dignity and indulge in a downright woman's scrap, but when it comes right down to it which girl do they secretly admire the most? Why the one who is well groomed, be- ly frocked, smartly booted, and, in fact, right up to time and a little in ad- vance if she has the money and the taste. If you don’t believe me try it and see. Paris certaicly I8 a wonderful mine when- it comes to turning out splendid gowns, and the best part of it is, she never seems to be lacking nor do her fashions appear strained or commonplace. One of the most charming frocks seen for & time is & creation of silk muslin over creem chiffon, the whole being made over a drop of cream taffeta. And that re- minds me. It is quite the thing to wear sheer gowns, particularly now that sum- mer is nearly here; but if you use a silk Jining, to be perfectly correct, you should have one of chiffon also, that fits like a glove over the taffeta and that further “takes away somewhat of its luster and ot & little of the ruste. . The waist of this white gown is a de- lightful combination of the muslin, an- tique lace and band-embrqidered applique in the grape design that bas been so wonderfully popular this year, and that really is about thesprettiest thing In the \e of a trimming that one can purchase. Quce more tue large SleeVes are With ua com! WETTLE, CHTTZZoNT CAN TILLEY AVD D455 oF ZErAc 2 o FOWNLS KON T ELEORIZCA and this time they come as a positive relief, for small sleeves wers, to say the least, extremely trying to some peopls, and when they were at their tightest rage were not always ocomfortable. Now they are rather snug at the shoul- der, usually either pleated or ghirred some thres or four inches, or with a band of lace acting as a cap from which the full- ness dropped gracefully only to be caught into a tiny band at the wrist. Of courses the new sleeve is not a money saver and already one is warned to buy four yards of material instead of two and a half or possibly three, and the reason is always soothingly added, “You want the big sleeves, don’t you? They're so swell and so becoming, you know.” Another white frock is made of white silk chiffon tucked all over with quite a heavy silk, so heavy, in fact, that it looks more like a tiny braid than anything else. The skirt is rather plain, being made with a wide flounce and fimsned off with two rows of double pleating of the chiffon. While it is not nearly as elaborate as many, it is as dainty and as sweet as it could possibly be and is a decided rest after such quantities and quantities of trimmings. Probably you all know that no skirt, no matter what it is or how it is fash- foned, is mever lined! The lines are ex- cellent and they must be cut just so or else they hang wretchedly, but they are not dependent in the least upon their lin- ing. Many of them, in fact, are not as much as fastened to the silk drop-skirt at the waist line, but are worn independ- ently. Champagne crepe de Paris is & won- derfully shimmery, clinging material that has stolen a march on crepe de chine and that threatens to quite take its place. It Is soft and delicate, but has a satin finish which makes a smarter looking frock than its rival The skirt of such a gown has the ap- pearance of being shirred, yet in reality it is the embroidered strips that encircle 4 which give it that soug efect Oue fi,{fxfi?fiq T 40044 CHEITFOXN OVERS LIZD TXTLT WALTE THE SUNDAY CALL. 7 of the pecullar ideas about it is the way the embroldered yoke is fastened to the {waist band. Instead of being fitted as closely as possible it is tight about the top of the hips, but flares from there downward. When the crepe, in turn, Is added, there is more fullness until it almost ripples, and as there are three bands of embroldery by the time the last row of material is safely sewed in place the skirt is extremely full and long about the feet, the best feature it could possibly possess. . There is nothing new or startling about ‘the“waist, although mo one would want a prettier way to make it. The yoke, made of a fine white lace, daintily beaded, Is quite deep and is finished off with a V- shaped collar of the sjik embroidery, champagne in color and rich in texture. The crepe is very full and is gathered into a high round girdle of the embroidery ‘which finishes the waist at the bottom. The sleeves are especially fetching. Bhirred well at the top In order to give Ithe required fullness, they fairly ripple over a deep cuff of the lace at the hand. But their novelty is at the elbow. Of course, to be graceful they couldn’t fall in straight lines on the inside of the arm, 80 there are some twenty odd rows of gathers, which gives a decided curve to the arm, but at the same time retains all the crepe, which falls just as it pleases. A handsoni® dinner dress is a combina- tion of black silk Brussels net and real Chantilly lace, designed in a dainty spreading fan effect. One of its chief [peauties are the delicate pink wild roses s e T o A e which are Handpainted om the net, and, of oourse, make it decldedly out of the ordinary. As a rule it is made over a pale pink silk mualin, edged with ruffles of black chiffon. This certainly sounds as though it were a plenty, but this ts all put over & white taffeta dropskirt with a long train. The waist has elbow sleeves, which are more worn than ever, being appropriate for all hours of the day. The yoking, a combination of French gold lace with a suggestion of black chiffon, is quite new, very expensive and truly chic. In the London fashion world, where coverings for evening gowns seem to flourish, long coats and wraps are quite as much a part of this year’s costumes as they were of last year’'s, only there is a more delightful variety from which to pick and choose. The long coat, which is on the plan of a circular, excepting that it is quite a little shorter in front than at the back, has a velvet collar and double capes be- low it. Perhaps, no model has been such a general favorite, for there is scarcely a color that it has not been made up in, not excepting white, The long, half-fitting coat, also with capes—one, two or three, as the case may be—has been a. positive craze for this year, but a light cloth, Both In weight and color, has been chosen instead of black and many have been of a fine grade pongee. The trimmings of these rather elaborate affairs are facings of India silk, white with black dots, or a solid color with white dots and with stitched bands on the lower part of the coat. You hear on all. sides that they are rather shapeless in effect, yet If you take the trouble to investigate you will see that they are always carefully fitted over the shoulders, so that there shall be rp vnnecessary fullness about the walst line; fcr, while the figure Is apparently hidden, great care is taken to iIndicate a slender walst, that Is, if you are fortunate enough to possess one. Never has there been a year when coats have been chosen with a more reckless kand. Some very claborate white cloth oo iy " AN BT i e e R & e 1 g SRR 3, ones are showsi wWitn capes of velve which are appliqued cut-work of ¢ satin. For instance, a coat will bolero of dark velvet with qu this cut-work, any number tassels, too numerous to e the fronts will be faced” with Now, the queer part of this wrap is th one would naturally suppose it was | tended exclusively for evening wear, yet it is pressed Into service whenever a light costume i3 worn. If you have no idea what such a conceit costs drop into som: shop and ask. Ten to one you will think that you are about to be scandalously robbed. Then stop and think a moment. They certainly are elaborate and swell, both two good peints in their faver, and s long as they are considered quite oper for so many different. cccasions are so evidently used both to show off or conceal & gown, as one desires, on second thought you probably will not deem them such an unwarranted extrave nce. ongee i3 a fashionable texture for ak most everything just at present and is every whit as smart for suits as it is for cloaks. It is soft and clinging and when made with collariess jackets and skirty elaborately trimmed it is cool and delight« fully fresh looking, especially for warmy dusty climates. The foulard, always & favorits, bas beeny selected for shirt waist gowns almost em= clusively. One of the newest has & shir- red yoke on the upper part of the skirg and also the walst, a rather trying fashe fon if not well carried out; but it is exe« cellent for a slender figure, as the fulle ness, which falis below the hips, rarely falls to be vastly becoming. By the way, a walst the color of the gown or white Is the rule this season and when Iimited to these two colors It is surprising the number of various designs that are to be had. Just now the plain rather than the elaborate are considered by far the smartest. The fancy for initials and monograme on outside garments, particularly those that are severely plain, continues. Pretty sets of lawn turnovers and wrist bands are frequently finished in hem- stitching, and each one has a small em- broidered initial on it. The letter Is placed in the center of the collar band, to come directly In front when in place, and it is on one end of the cuff in order to bring it on top of the sleeve. One would be almost amazed at the varfety of designs and the gquantity of them, not to mention the threads and colors used by she girl who considers her« self a cognolsseur in this modish fashion. And her list is a long one, Including §ta- tionery, underwear, handkerchiefs, ho- siery, and last but by no means least, her umbrella and parasol. There have been comparatively few large monograms worn by the girls on this coast, but her Eastern sisters flaunts a blue parasol or umbr and on one gore is a great red letter warked in floss or cotton that defles the sun and rain to dn their worst. The prettiest conceits of all are the hand-painted buttons on Stud mountings. They come In several sizes and usually a set is composed of five buttons, three for the fromt and two for the sleeves, which are worn in separate silk blouses, or shirt waists for that matter. The girls have not by any manner of means finished borrowing from their brothers, and their latest acquisition was well worth the taking. The dress shirt protector is now their very own, taken on the quiet from Fam, Dick or Harry's top drawer or boldly purchased at a shop that carrid gentlem clothing exclu- sively. They are splendidly, warm and snug over a light silk or laed bodice and can be easily buttoned under a light jacket. Considering the thousand and one articles of feminine fripper they are the very cheapest and a rattling good investment as well, for they double and treble their original price In the non- payment of doctor’s bills. It is no trick and an everlasting task for the girl who would be considered tre- mendously smart by her friends, but the Ingenious young woman with a few Bour: labor can make and design numerous Ii tle accessories herself which gives the Dest of faishing touches—styje