The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 17, 1903, Page 10

THE SUNDAY CALL. ousiy seasickness. One sa s . possible; another re nce or twice a year largely of the igor with 1y, how- two great circulation g at least shing and the hair can- zed too strongly. 1 com h head. Use both hair up, tossing it ventilate the scalp. st. If one can = w while perform so much the be inlight are important ng or e and beauty of the hair. fine-to may occasionally be to to free the hair of dust. Use the comb only through the t touch the scalp with it Women use a fine comb to remove but thie is a mistake. The se teeth only irritate the scalp increase the growth of dan- preparing tc hree or four w shampon the hair— ks as a general the hair, starting about four 2 the head, to the ends. The with a sponge apply a from the best soap that can the scalp thoroughly nd tingers, and then ad and ha'r with clear water. his purpose a bath sprinkler may be great advantage. The rinsing wa- be either cold or tepid r has & tend to become ofly good. Take the white of beating it up with balf a cupful r tepid water, and rub it into the £ the fingers as for a massage needs nutriment, first beat »f the egg with water and wash is up the yolk rub it into the scalp, and then do the same thing with the wnite of an egg This prevents the hair from falling out se only the white of the egg when the bair is too ofly, and only the yolk when the hair is too dry }or shampooing purposes, bicarbonate of seda and castile soap are standard preparations. Ammonia and borax ere aiso frequently used, but they are likely to destroy the color and vitality of the hair. When bicarbonate of soda is used, be very careful to give a thorough rins- ing with warm water, gradually reduc- ing the :perature until the water is An excellent shampoo mixture is made n of carbonate of potassium, 1 re of cantharides, 4 ounces and water, and 1% pints Dissolve the carbonate in the dra This mixture may be bottled, and a lit- tle used occasionally to massage the scalp. It must be shaken well before using A cleansing and stimulating shampoo liquid is made of one cunce of cologne and half a pint of alcohol added to haif & pint of water. -Another shampoo mix- ture consists of § cents’ worth of pow- Gered castile soap, two drams of alcohol, one Gram of powdered borax and the of two eggs beaten up in one pint Pour this mixture into a basin of tepld water and apply with a sponge or nail brush. If afflicted with dandruff use the fol- lowing preparation when washing the hair: Half a dram of powdered borax (about half a spoonful) and one teaspoon- ful flour of sulphur, poured over one pint of boiling water. When cool it may be poured into a basin of water and used immediately, or bottied, and a little used occasionally to rub on the scalp. Sulphur invigorates deteriorating color, often preventing the hair turning gray, or at least retarding the change. Another remedy for dandruff is five ounces of bay rum, one ounce of olive oll and half a dram of tincture of can- thariGes. Rub thoroughly into the acalp. If the hair is oily add one dram of am- monia. If the hair is very oilly use two ounces each of witch hazel and alcohol, one ounce of rose water and thirty grains of resorcin. Rub well Into the scalp. A capital tonic for the hair, which may be used once a week, is one pint of dis- tilled water, four drams each of bay rum and glycerine, one dram each of tincture of capsicum and twenty grains of qui- nine After a shampoo, especially if the hair be naturally dry, it is a good plan to rub into the mecalp a Mttle bland ofl, such as almond oil, or ofl of benne. But what is used must be sweet, not rancid. Either of these ofls will help to nourish the hair, and offset any possible unhappy results of a shampoo. Sweet ol and lanolin, half and half, are also goed to use after a shampoo. The least bit of this mixture should be taken up on the finger tips and rubbed Into the scalp. It will be surprising how the grease will soon be absorbed, and it will not be long before the hair shows signs of nourishment and takes on a new beauty. Particularly after middle age is an emol_ lient. necessary for the hair. This need of nourishment is not found when one.is yeung, but ‘elderly tresses demand atten- tion. Rub the emollient on with the finger tips, without allowing the nails to touch the scalp. Continue the rubbing for sev- erai minutes, as friction is necessary to keep the scalp in healthy condition. Drying should be accomplished by rub- bing with warm towels, followed by a good, dry massage with the finger tips until the whole head is in a glow. When~ ever possible the hair ghould be dried in the sun. A sun bath brings out its glint- ing lights as nothing else will. The locks should be shaken from time to time dur- ing the drying process. Sometimes, instead of giving the hair a water bath, a sun bath alone will make the hair fresh and sweet, and, together wi;h brushing, do much to keep it in good order. Any one who has observed the human calp closely knows that, in good condi- “tlon, it sends out two growths a year. If, the hair is carefully pruned it will make three growthsa year, but this cut- ting must be done with unfailing regu- ldrity Once a month, and as nearly as possible on the same date, is the best rule, For this reason we are told to cut or clip our hair “in the new of the moon." The moon has nothing whatever to do with the growth or life of the halr, but if that time is appointed one is more cer- tain to attend to the duty. “Oh, there is a new moon,” one says. must clip my hair.” If ‘the hair 1s thin and weak, singeing is advisab'e. One way to singe the halr 18 to gather up the ends and pass them slowly over the top of a lamp chimney, high above the hot chimney at first, and then slowly lower and lower until sud- denly the ends crisp. Braid the hair loosely in one strand at night and try to study out several differ- ent ways of pinning it up by day. Hair should not be worn tightly twisted and pinned, nor steadily, for any great length of time, in one style. . Light-weight and very open-toothed combs should be employed in making the pompadour, and night and morning, when arranging the hair, dip the dressing comb several times in clear water. In a cli- mate where there is little moléture in the air it is a positive necessity to dampen the locks frequently. The hair is nourished as much by what one eats as the blood and flesh, and many hair specailist treat it through the stomach instead of paying local atten~ tion to the scalp. Brown bread, cracked wheat, plain, boiled vegetables, mutton and a simple dietary in every respect are advised. Beautiful, soft, bright hair caanot be grown from a diet of fine, bolted flour bread, cake and salads, If one wants a fine head of hair one must eat with due regard to the albumen and gelatine re- quired for color and softness. The latest cure for falling hair is noth- {ng more complicated than correct breath- ing. In the common careless mode of inhaling and exhaling, air which is left unexpired in the lobules of the lungs, absorbs certain impurities of the body. This, in_turn, is imparted to the blood from the air cells of the lungs and has a poisonous effect on the hair. Proper, deep inhalatiorr would prevent the har- boring of foul alr in the lungs which proves so detrimental to the hair. Colonel Kate HERE are lovely old ladles, charm- ing old women, kittenish old girls, frivolous old freaks and horrid old frumps, and it with the woman herself to which class she shall belong. There s an art in growing old grace- fully and the woman who has mastered the art will carry with her into her gra: the love garnered throughout a lifetime. Simply because a few years have been added to the score it does not presuppose that a woman should either forget or grow careless of those graces that made her s0 charming befare the roses faded from her cheeks, leaving the gray shadows of the ashes of roses in their stead. 1 am decidedly in sympathy with any movement that stays the blighting touch of time and k¢eps a woman young and attractive 'after her first youth has be- come a memory, and yet a woman should meet the passing years with that grace and dignity that respect time In his migit, even though endeavoring to stay his tco rapid progress. Those who have passed the weird line of 40, that heralds the advance guard of age With silvery speartips touching. be it ever so lightly, woman’'s crowning glory, are fortunate in this day and gen- eration in not being relegated to the background to sit keeping a chimney corner warm, inviting nervous prostra- tion through the everlasting clicking monotony of the knitting needles, that were supposed to beat the tattoo for the homeward march to another and better world for the matron of a few decades agone. Think of a woman nowadays sitting in a straight up and down house gown, shapeless and square off at the walst, and guiltless of belt, with a lttle old kerchief crossed in meek melancholy res- ignation across her downtrodden bosom, with a cap!—merci!—and having no other aim or object in life than being a second- best nursery maid for a lot of grand- children, with a steady job of stocking darning thrown in. N The grandma of the day shows pretty plainly that she gave up the job of baby- raising with the first installment and does not intend to rehearse the performance. Think of -a woman of 40 at this day and generation doing anything so reck- less as undertaking a second-hand baby-raising contract. Her lines are now .cast in more pleasant places (every woman who has raised a family knows all about the merry war), and she enter- tains not the faintest idea of being so handicapped and growing old if she can help herself, or at any rate she refuses to look old. The woman who grows old gracefully is lovely. The silver in her hair has soften- ec the lines of her face and the ravages of time have dealt gently with her. She is a walking fashion plate and her weil preserved Higure seefis to become more sraceful with matufity. She is often far more beautiful and attractive than her daughter, having the added dignity that comes of experience and knowledge of the world. 1f she has mastered the art of growing wld gracefully she is always companion- able, always lovable. Enjoying life her- self, she delights in sharing whatever pleasures come her way and is never a «cld douche to the younger set. The woman who has been reckoned a Léauty In her youth regrets most poig- nantly the ravages of time and there is a pathetic reluctance in the parting that she struggles to avert. It is then, when through her efforts to hide the trend of years, she sacrifices the noblest preroga- tives of dignity In the effort to seem young despite the telitale crow feet that are time's unerring calculus. Then comes the struggle that deceives no_oue. The woman who grows old gracefully {s always beautiful and her garb denotes the refinément of her mental caliber. She dcns quiet colors and puts the patrician stamp on everything she wears. She, adorns her gowps rather than they her, and her manner is in keeping. She 18 more brilllant than a younger woman, because she has seen and observed more closely and the benefits of assoclation have broadened her views of life. At 40 a woman ls really at her best, both physically and mentally. Being still beautiful she has long ago estimated her power. At 50 she begins to wonder if this beauty is paling and from then begins the struggle to chain her lost youth. The first wrinkle sends a thril of horror through her frame and the in- sidious lines between the brows give her nerves a twang that vibrates through the coming years down to her very grave, If she is level headed she will make the best of it, as she knows there are others, and her misery will have all the com- pany it craves and forthwith begins the battle between a woman's vanity and a woman's common sense. If her vanity gets the better of the argument then all the sage advice in creation will no{ keep ker from growing into that peripatetic norror—an old fool—and rouge pot and powder rag and the eyebrow pencil and . remains Papers “As Woman Grows Old”’ the tricks of the masseur are all kept rking overtime to fight off the insidic tle lines that rge a woman's yo and beauty. If hair goes off the hor rid Gesertion is hushed up under & Wig a patch or a Weratch (I think they call i end from being & woman she becom: freak Now a painted, bedizzened eld woman orTiest sight in creation, and when is added a lot of real live kitten- sassified little coquetries she becomes the butt of al ense and nonsen mical jokes tr & people who kncw ish prone to the affiiction of lavender ribbe The mild mania extends over the period of from sixty to eighty years, or longer if the victim survives, and the ol who escapes the lavender ribbon microbes hat i the nature of a cu: is something absolutsly pathetio n the struggle made by many women to cheat time of his dues, and when through her vanity, an old woman makes herself ridiculous it is emough te make & barmless tic weep The sentimental old woman is about the most pitiable exponent of the categor: She flatters herself that she does ot show her age, and the trend of her thoughts is to hide !t by marrying & man many years her junior. She is gemerally po ed of a fortune, otherwise thoss upon whom she !s dependent would take good care that she 4id not have the chance to brew such folly, but, having plenty of money, she begins to sigh for the companionship of some eme bright and entertaining, and is likely to fall in love with a mers boy fregh from the kin- dergarten stage and ge! the aredit of having done the proposing. There are precious few young men whe would have the nerve to ask an old woman's wrinkled hand in'marriage, and oply & man with- out a penny who was not in love aad whe cared more for the personal comfort than for public opinion would brave the eriti- clsms. If he marries In the expectation that the dear old lady will seon join the angels, leaving him to mowm and bate the will, he Is often mistalen, those old ladies have little ides of leav- ing the dear boy to share her bounty with a younger woman. In some Instadoes the old lady bas been kmown enough/to bury the dear to beg/n to paint and again In anticipation of heart faflure. I have in mind one such marriage whare the man, a handsome chap of M, a penny, was wooed and won by an an- tique of about 9, with at lesst & million in cash, a poodle, and the lavender ribbon hat She always seems intensely proud of her boyish husband and took geed care that he never had the chance to wander. Her fortune at her death was te reward his devotion, and she loomed up radiant in smiles and picture hats and fads and foolishness that would have made an In- genue of 1§ dizzy. She was always wait- Ing for her ‘‘dear boy,” as she called him, looking smiling and kittenish, while he appearcd 3o awfu'ly, overly much married to the verge of being dyspyptic. She now looks about 149, while he is very much married still and very subdued (when she's around). His original generous allowance was cut down years ago by his adoring spouse, who feared he might treat some of the pretty girls who would flirt with him to chewing gum or some equally reakless ex- travagance. When the marria ef took place she cer- tainly seemed o ipe for heaven, but that “dear boy” has had a steady job of carrying ber wraps and the poodle for fif teen years, and I am very much of the opinion that if he ever gets the stakes he will have abundantly earned all that coming to him and more than he will ever get. The life of an old man or woman wealth is not always enviable by means. Experience makes age skeptical and suspicious and old people are not al- 'ways agreeable and fear they do not re- ceive all the attention to which they feel themselves gntitled. It is rather a lonely existence when one thinks of it and ald people really need the companionship of the young to keep them from growing morbid. While one naturally. feels tempt for a young man who marrk old woman because of the promise of in- heriting her wealth, yvet a lonely old wo- man is very helpless, and feeling that relatives are obsequiously waiting for her obsequies it must be a big temptation to marry, thereby securirfg a protector, while the number of old ladies wno have lately been railroaded to insane asylums is ot enough to boom an old ladies’ matri- monial bureau There s something weird though in such Jove affairs and when one such does flop over romantically It Is absolutely un- canny. They will wander into the kinde: garten class for sweethearts and the amount of vim and vigor they succeed In infusing into the wooing ts much lke a brandy frappe, where the extremes of heat and cold bubble up together. COLONEL KATER