The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 22, 1903, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALL. 15 1T bowknot is le of it i, fat After the nder- Will Be Worn e tue Summer Joseph Cham- " s { 1 short i the sash, if placed s of tying essarily of four- appre- as the ribbon, in is t nd 1t s likely that greater than it was ash has two stift A /e oyIVIE WITH || ART15TI< \ 5£mri— { J SKIRT: But the Roman effects are smarter, and sash of summer, all gros gr lable, will be among the nov- elt w i at Bar Har s the empir The wid: the waist the the em vel- r satin ummer sash, g through bbons that ribbon for one’s self, and the most beautiful ribbon novelties can be obtained by the girl with the tf skill to do the work. In ’ seams of the silk squares covered by Valenclennes lace. In the gowns of the coming suramer there will be & great deal left to the sash. And especially 1s this true where the tiny cks are used and the flowered mate- rials and the little raindrop muslins and chambray Batistes, lawns, challies and the eount- less muslins that are treated to bouquets and figured in the littlest roses and those be that are stamped with the smallest and nost uncertain wavy designs can all be de up perfectly plain; and, with the tion of a little lace for the neck, they 1 depend enti ir decoration. 1y upon the sash for are the varieties of sashes, and In newest there can be seen touches of Persianesque treatment which Is creeping into all things women wear. ed to the'sash is the stock, this season there will be many a gown. The gown that is cut her rounding In the netk and finished with & band of needlework Is the one that will be selected by the girl who has a imer fancy calls for a square need- neck which is set in the gown in a 1t fashion with needlework front ck and extended rather low upon st. The throat is finished without r ruffle and makes one of the neck- wns of the season. Under this oper \l t there can be set a color, but it swell thing to show one’s own h the open lace or a delleate gerie skin throu bit of The days when women hid their lingerie em to have gone by forever. Through open lace of the walst there peeps forth the pretty lace corset cover, and through this there is seen more lace, al- ys lace, as far down in the mysteries of gown as one can go! { u wish to make a summer gown ng easy lines, vet lines that are mark- inction. you can take one of the pretty prints of the season, selecting a kind that costs only a few cents, and make it up in two parts, walst and skirt. In fashioning these you can choose as a model a _dress recently made for a fash- ionable New York woman who makes it & point to get her printed gowns all out of the way before summer comes, It is told of her that she takes these little printed gowns and, while they are fresh and crisp, wears them In town, let- ting them be seen at a reception or two and at an ““at home.” No matter how simple the material may be, it looks pret- ty while it 1s new. and, If worn with a big'picture hat with spreading plumes, it carries a certain distinction and a novel- ty which i most desirable. The model upon which the pretty print gown I8 made depends upon the waist for its style. This is a neckless waist, with- out stock or without finish at the throat, other than a band. of needlework. There is a deep yoke of lace, front and back, re and made of a coarse fllet lace. to say an imitation filet, for it is very heavy. Below the lace yoke the walist is laid in pin tucks and, at the bust, these tucks are released to make a full puff just where the bust comes. Again, it Is tucked at the walist line. The sleeves are tucked at the top and are cut off at the elbow. Here there is a wide ruffie falling free from the arm. The skirt Is laid in pin tucks all the way down to the two large flounces which trim the bottom of the dre: Fagoting th rd, hemstitching by the plece, and all sorts of fancy stitching. such as can be bought in the stores, meas ured off while you walit, will be employed in the treatment of the delicate little com- ing summer dress. Not long ago there appeared in a French fashion book an article written exclusive- ly for modistes, and advising the needle- women to cater to the underwear of their patrons. “The gowns, wh year,” says this veal every b are very thin this e, “are built to re- of the underwear. Therefore it is the duty of us who dress the peaple to sur Jur patrons not only with fine and thin gowr Bl latest styles, but wit andsome unde walsts which can be worn beneath these gowns In summer and winter time “It would be well.” advised this aut outurieres would take meas- lersiips and fit, make and ¥ as though they were rately. The nicest gown ures for the un trim them prec to be worn can be spoiled if its underwaist or drop skirt be poor, and, very ordinary, Inex- pensive fabric can be made to look very handsome and pretentious 1f underneath it there is more attention paid to detail and to the trimming of the skirt There are always new ways of wearing old colors and the newest way to wear pink and white is to make a pink founda- tion and to wear over it a- very thin, filmy white gown, which shows the lining plain- Ily. Pink is thus rendered a great deal more delicate by its veiling, while the gown takes on a sort of fairylike look which it lacked before. Moreover, the white shades the pink somehow, and gives it depth, and while the gown looks almost clear white in some lights, in others the hadows make'it a deep red. Black Gives Character. With the pink and white gown there can be worn a little black velvet to give it characier. The black velvet sash is pe- cultarly good for this and its long, grace- ful lines add height to the figure as well as dignity to the gown. The black sash goes well with any gown and can be In any wardrobe The way to tie the sash is not in loops and ends, according to the latest dictum, but in a knot of the kind known as a “hard knot.” This gives the appearance of just two ends and these can hang very long right down to the tip of. the train. The best dresseq women take an invisible stitch in the sash after it is tled, ta keep it in place in the back; just a single stitch half way down the back of the gown to keep the sash from sliding around. It will be a sash summer and many are the sash modes. It Is said that the girl of the summer: will waste a fortune in sashes before she learns how to tle them properly and will rumple up as many as she buys long before the trick has beenlearned. Yet the whole secret lies in pulling the knot tightly and to do so is ruinous to the ribben, but what would you have? As well be out of the summer entirely as out of style in the manner of tying your sash. A black gown looks very well if worn with a sash in moss green, which can be trimmed with white lace medallions. Let the lace be put ribbon cut o sash be tied ends will hang down Cut the ends slantingw! picot them Mrs. Joseph C best dres tact in be con Mrs. Chamberlain in Africa. Not least of her ways of displaying it is seen in her dress, for she chooses her gowns so as not to give offense to the fru- gal min Dutch who would rebel against the sight of the conquering hero and his wife., were the latter too gorgeously ar- rayed Yet the Dutch are a people fond of bright colors, and nowhere as in Holland and in South Africa are the brilliant plaids more fully appreciated. One of Mrs. “hamberlain’s gowns is a Roman plald, the strongest or red and blue ere s yellow fn the plaid and es of white and black. But cter to the gown there are of coral colored surah which long but do not 1 is one of the ria and her the Boers is said to amberl women lealing with derable. wing tones. there to gi littl are used for trimming the shirt and the A little black coat is lined with the coral lor and the hat with th suit shows, a dash of red In its wings, with a ound of green felt trimmed with plaid 4 of Mrs. Chamberlain's gowns 1s a miracle of good taste, for it is In gray, trimmed with burnt orange in three diffe: ent shades. The oranges are in bands of taffeta, one lald under the other to look Jike a band of shaded k. The mixed red dresses are greatly grow- Ing in favor and one hears how the Coun- tess of Warwick wore a gown in mixed red cloth, showing all colors of red, trimmed with bands of deep. red. The color scheme is an important part of any gown and the best modistes are studying the best ways and trying to make the gowns carry out the detail which the artist had in mind when he chose the col- ors. One of the lovellest of all gowns was made in a delicate violet. The pale shade of violet is charming to a degree and to trim it there is no color as happy as white. This gown, with {ts violét cloth and its white trimmings, was treated to bands of deep violet panne and these were seen at the head of the flounce, around which . violets in embroidery strayed and violets in applique. It is ever so chic this spring to carry violets with your violet gown, and she cannot be blamed if at the present price of violets the woman of fashion takes to the artificial bunch of silk or velvet. The Jeweled Laces. The uses to which jewels are to be put this season are many. The jeweled yokes are in every wardrobe, or will be ere the summer bees hum. To jewel a yoke Is such a pleasant task and the process is one so well known to every woman that few will resist the temptation to add so effective a plece of wearing apparel to the wardrobe. The jeweled cuffs, the jeweled yoke and the jeweled stock are but the beginning of pretty things that can be treated to a trimming of little gems. Then come the belts and then the entire blouses, which are prettily jeweled in imitation of price- less Persian jeweled stuffs. Half a dozen blouses, of net, of Louis- ine, of chiffon, of insertion, China silk and Irish lace, were jeweled in tiny pat- terns, which were very effective in the gaslight. The ‘“Jewels,” which were the shape of tiny bits of glass of colors, were put on to make t of the natural figures of the lace. Mother of pearl scales are used in the jewel” pattern and so are fish scales, steel paillettes and all of the small color- ed stones one can command. Turquoise go very well with all jewels, and, with the small pearl grnaments that are now in such vogue, they make particularly good combinations. Tiny coral flowers were used to border a lace yoke and throughout the lace there were long ragged coral beads sewed into the lace. The long coral stems were plerced through and through and so strung into the lace, after the manner of stringing them in chains. Nothing could be easier than to Jewel a lace yoke wh.. coral and nothing better repays a woman for a morning of needlework The very wide siceves with thelr deep cuffs or with the wide lace turning back over the cuffs make a very good founda- n for the jeweled trea it and the only thing against them is that the jewels do r. But neither, for that matter, do the chiffons upon which they are placed.