The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 1, 1903, Page 9

> & = Ehe Is the Truest Type of Thoroughbred American Declares “Colonel Kate” ~—Because She Is Charming, Bred, Self-Reliant and Neither a Prig Nor a Prude, the Girl, Well the American Man Likes Her Do Order to Be a Girl Who 1Is Mightily—What to Up-to-Date. i n's LTOGETHER the up-to is the truest type of t bred American gir Bbe is charming Ebe never jars on one's ner: red and self-reliant Bhe is wel out being seif-assert! Bhe is nmeither & P she s the best compant either sex. .. dste g nor & prude, yet for frie: The masculine girl was & creature of & pest age. Bhe did not come to stay ently ot lovable and men and ve the lovable woman The lovabls up-to-date gir he gods, but this meed n te sisters from enjoy egTee. e sime prerog A girl of any walk of of the plea GRERTES w to the pleas, o worl - 3 Ne pz be disappeared quickly. She was m 1 "1’y Princeton, Yale, Harvard, all SHE wWNOWS AL THE NEW SONGS AND (S HER OwmM - AcCoMPANIST " re of others. - Or should she know noth- g of ‘the game, she can ‘st rear anit gok pretty, which is about all that ‘the. ayerage than expects of the - average woman, ‘It may not be much fun, but ber friends may not wish to leave her alone- at home and prefer seeing her afound where they are. She may not ride to the hounds, but o can go in a carriage to the meet and r into the spirit of the chase. She may not know one card from the other, yet she can watch the game if her triends like to have her do so. Of course, it is more enjoyable if can take part, but if she cannot, she n be none the less companionable, There is nothing so aggravating as for & young girl to set up her opinion against any pieasure that others may propose. It not only argues a want of breeding, but it is also & lack of common sense. It is the girl who Is obliging and amiable who always plays the trump cards of the deck % If you fear to be shocked by the pas- times of others you should avold them. Do not gle emong friends for the sole purpoSs of breaking up a party or registering an objection. Follow the cue of the up-to-date girl In the matter of dress the thoroughly up-to-date giri requires many perquisites that: otherwise ‘might seem superfluous. If she cannot appear to advantage among her ffiends then she should remain away from “formal- functions, but for informial occasions she can appear at her Lest and & charming manner will ake amends s e e @ CF FUR MRRKETS. ¥ cen- another. 1'1s _reslly re than g Sy game with pointed bamboos and catech it in pitfdlls, as they did centuries ago, Tar- tars and Arabs, Abyssinians and Zulus, all are working for the merchants of Leipzig ¥ The greatest quantity ‘of furs comes from Bokhara, in Turkestan, which pro- ces almost one million of the Beautiful astrakhan skins every year. These skins are shipped.in a raw state by caravan. over mountains and .desérts, tbrough lands where Darius and Alex- arder fought, across the Casplan Sea to Russja. - There a rallroad takes them to the big - city of Nijni Novgorod,- whers most: of the skins.are dréssed and fin- ished. Then they go to Leipzig to be sold. and Siberia send -almost all. the ie.- that are taken in their im- hunting -grounds. to . Leipzig. Two squirrel ‘skins are shipped ‘to year from Russia alone. Thirty foxes. and 1,000,000 lambs are v.1o supply the .demand of the leipzig fur traders. niillions. of it each for - the deficiencies: of ‘a: wardrobe. An Inexpensive gowi; well made and pretty, clean and fresh-looking, is all that youth needs, provided the wearer herself is at- tractive. The girl who cannot afford to dress well should cultivate some gift or talent that ‘will compensate ‘for- elegance of appear- ance. . A musician, or' one who sings, or who is clever: at sleiglit-6f-hand tricks, is al- ways sought ‘after. If,- however, . she can afford it, the. up- fo-date girl should have.a wardrobe well equipped for every and all occasions, For. riding, for 'driving," for- golf, for games of any kind, a suitable costume always adds to a young girl's importance. There 'is. no - denyingf that the world is swayed by appearances and more readily forgives any sins other than ‘those of Ly, gentility A gown need not be expensive,. but it should: be suitatle and up-to-date. I' have always advocated a knowledge of dressmaking for young girls who, by birtli and-education, are entitled t6 social recogriition, and. yet-who have ‘little of ke long-drawn-out green: vintage to make thém presentable, Many are attractive and would ‘be sought after did:they make the appearance that soclal functions - de- mand.. A knowlédge -of needlecraft “and a little dexterity with:a pair of sheirs would save many. a girl hedrtbreaking humiliation and ‘bitter ‘disappohitment A girl of taste -and sKill'can fashton a y gown at. surprisingly ‘small: ¢ost, and ‘if she Knows -that shé looks up:to- date -in- it she has. more. confidencé ‘In berself. A woman should: always dress as*well as her purse will allow. ‘The young' girl whose purse {8 more contracted. than her aspirations. can -make “a ‘littie skill -and ingenuity: do duty where the purse fails. A becoming. hat 13 the first and all .im- portdnt point. Every.girl knows: that if shé can trim her-own she can save ‘half the price of ready trimmed millinery. Let her be sure that the hat is becoming, suited to: the.occasion: and gives ‘tone: Lo Ler whole céstume. Shoes and gloves ‘are also fine: points with the up-to-date. girl. - Like the hat, they should be in harmony with their en- vironment.. Bven a well-worn: gown bor- rows a. touch of :style if hat, shoes and gloves are up to the requirements of time and place. As 1 have sald, a well-eqilpped ward- robe will ‘save a girl. many a heartache and ‘keen disappointment. - Her own in- dustry may g6 a long way toward mak- ing it so. .Of course, where ‘wealth puts no - limit' to - outlay -such things-are not seriously. considered, ‘but few girls, com- paratively speaking, are so blest. The more ambitious a girl may be the more will she try to do many things that would seem a- hopeless undertaking to thoss more favored. She wants to-appear well, - and her ligenuity . must - make amends for constrained: pursestrings. In her -home, t00, the up-to-date girl shows: her skill>and - taste; and'{s’ there apt to betray the complexion. of her heart. The coflege room; & strong fad with the gitl of the day, is pretty and keeps alive the, enthusiasm ‘of her mature ‘and -the glow of her heart. ‘Collegs. colors are at- . taactive, and ‘the color scheme of a cozy corner, in/Karmony: with the boy’s so far aty ~1s-tot only a-dalnty fancy, but is bright and. suggestiv.y. add - a “handsome dash of color to-a:girl's den, and ‘when her fandies are diversified and all the colors are blended the Varfety Is pleasing..; West Point, with its gray and black, is too soniber unless. combined with brighter. hiles.. The -Annapolis ‘emblem shows siich’-dark- blue that a flamboyant touch ™ is “iiéeded. . But. mo matter what the colors miay. be,’ ténnis. rackets, golf sticks, snowshoes “or any-implements of ®ames are all pigtugesque when tied with bright ribbons. and” used -as wall decora- tions. = And-thesé ‘interspersed with pj tures "of girls gowdged iu various collegy colors and of fenciméegivis make a scheme which is Cheery and bright. College and club pins’ will never lose their fascinations for the gir! whose heart is in the right place, and when she col- lects an assortment she is apt to value them far more highly than the diamonds lavished on her by a doting old papa. There is something extrémely whole- some In ‘the atmosphere of a room deco- rated with a collection of athletic relics. They exude a breath of refreshing air from the outside world, and downy sofa pillows bearing college designs tell of the soft, warm heart of the girl who placed them there. The up-to-date girl is full of fads and fancies. She is essentially feminine In TED.Ist her taste and occupations, but at the same time there is a dash of what might be called “the perfect gentleman™ in her composftion. Her feminine instincts are true and ‘ennobling. Her masculine tastes are subject to the control that keeps them from being jarring. o The girl of a past generation has no place with the man of the day. If she wishes his regard and )II.S attentions she must share his pleasures. No man cares for a girl whose head is filled with old world ideas. He wants the compauionship of the woman whose nature is much that of a refineg and revised edition of a man. The only girl who fills the bill is the girl who 1 -to-date. g ‘COLONEL KATE.” THE CHARMS CF MOROQCC EW countries have more delights for the traveler than Morocco. There are neither roads nor bridges to embarrass his choice: The customs and ~manners of ths people are as in the days of Abra- ham. Rivers and swamps create difficul- ties, to overcome which is a pleasant ex- ercise, while the fanaticism and aloof- ness of the hill tribes ana of some of the cities in the interior give a spice of ad- venture without any real danger. Roused at dawn by the movement of the camp, you turn out of your tent to see the horses fed and saddled and to chaft or scold the muleteers into making preparations for the march. - No. child . can be more wayward and no mule more obstinate than a Moor, yet no-one is more easily managed by a liftle firmness and good temper. A joke will stem the torrent of tumultuous protest and turn it to *Ship, ati. Tn laughter. A cfgarette or a pinch of snuff will melt ‘the heart of a’ hadji -who has done the" pilgrimage’ to.-Mecca, and ' the present of a knife or a pair. of cheap scis- s will. give 'you a whole village .for friend : Tents and equipment are packed on the and at last the caravan is In mo- You ve breakf2sted on eggs and h ‘which the coun- ready for a thirty- The land is full of the charm 1y's journey you may plain covered with palmetto, palm, and pass by groves of and fig-and walnut and orange and s, The cc shade of a lotus, ven a sharp-pointed aloe or In a a a wide or- dwarf olive a or a prickly pear will tempt you to lurfch and repc in the heat of the day upon the bank of some purling stream. You ride through mile after mile of wheat and barley and maize and millet, for Merocco might be the granary of western Europe. But m beautiful of all are the wild flowers and herbs. Not even Palestine, which blossoms as a garden under the rains of early spring, can compare with the land of the Moors. The -earth is clothed with rainbow and garlands of bril 1t flowers are spread at your feet. Your .horse ‘treads on wild mint and purple aromatic thyme, and the alr is filled with their fragrance. A rich purple carpet of vipers' bugloss has a border of pimpernel, scailet and rese. Bluebells lie like an imperial mantla fringed with the azure of borage and broidered with a pink-white blooms of anemone. Scattered among the grass are ladfes’ smocks, - all silver white, with golden sprigs of musk balsam, and blue and pink immortetles large golden b in white bow be fore the breeze, and convolvuli of every tint, from white to llac and deep rose, open their delicate bells to. the sun By the side of the bridle path are mal- Moon daisies with TELL yourR FORTUMNE “WIiITH cARDs." -to g SOVFe 8 |< Csions? the . evening—musk mallows with large Tose blossoms, dwarf mallows with pale llac flowers, and many another species larger and more graceful than any that adorn our lanes and flelds.. The cranes- bill,” or poor robin, puts on:his robe of pure white qr ri t crimson,. and the speedwell's tiny flower- of brilllant blue sparkles liko a gem in the bright grass Vetches purple and blue, stocks. both pink .and white, stately - irises, loins, , toxglove, ' popples, horehound with dim purple- bloom—a ‘wealth -of wild flowers gladdens the eye and' makes radiant the landscape Now. and then you -come suddenly upon some caravan of camels clothed with all the mysteries of.the desert moving: in long swaying line, with an escort of Arabs armed with strange rifles. They are laden with dates from the oasis of Tofllet, or convey prisoners in chains. It may be that they have tofled slowly from the Desert of Sahara with slaves, or across the mountaigs that help the warlike Sus ard his country from European ad- venture. From .the fertile plains you climb rugged hills and clifts of marl bleached by the sun and worn by winter torre e your eyes wander with e longing to the snowcrested Atlas Range, whose mysterles few travelers have explored e oS AP A Diet is, indeed, a most important peint to think of in all affections of the skin. It should be carefully regulated according to the weather. Less meat and less stim ting food are required in summer than ing cold weather. If cereals form the is' of the breakfast in cold weathey y should not be taken more than twice or three times a week, instead of dally but fruit, - tomatoes, lettuce and water- cress should form part of the breakfast, with good brown bread, toast'and egg or fish, either boiled or broiled. The mi meal should be simple, with effers water to drink if meat is taken, or milk it fish is eaten.. No kind of salt meat, smoked fish or any gréasy or rich dishes should be taken, and rich soups, pastries lows of many shades, beautiful to look and highly seasoned dishes be upon and swect to breathe in the cool of mest carefully avolded.—Colller's Weekl ! £ CF ! - treated. a baboon. -kept.in‘the officers’ IKE ‘human beings, some. animals iseem to have. a certain sense :of. Justice .arid . often :constitute them- selves: judge -and jury.-and:.infiict the punishment ‘whicli ‘they-consider right to those who have dome them an injury. The Asiatic elephant never forgets a Wrovig, even if ‘hifs chaiice of révenge only comes after. yeats of:walfing. -Captain n officér; once gave an-ele- phant a sandwich, the butter of which had ‘been mixed.| with réd . pepper. Six Weeks later he visited thie elephant again. The anfmal received him kindly at first, but immediately the captain turned his back he received a: shower of dirty water all ‘ovet -him.. The .elephant had taken it from his drinking trough. The 'spirit of revenge is well developed in"monkeys. Sir Andrew Frith, the great goologist, says that one morning a cer- tain officer, who had often teased and ill- quarters, was on his. way- to' dress parade when'" the baboon ‘éspled him.. e * im- mediately ‘séized “a -bucket of water poured it. inta a depression in.the. ground and mixed a mud paste, with w covered the officer m--head to foot wheri” the hated tor >r-passed. near the spot Theré: is a remdrkable st of ‘how ‘a ‘number: of ‘small together ‘to -revenge viclous neighibor. The )gs. banded ves on a bor was a mongrel, and' every d with his master, a milkman, he a one of . thése small dogs. Tt held a mass-meeting. one day and about twenty of these little dogs met him on the road Their- combined -efforts gained them a tremendous victo and ' the kman's dog “ever' afterward cénfined himself -te guarding his masteér's property