The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 1, 1903, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALL. 1 a Question of Col- and Pose, Witn e Photographer— rst tak g an in 5 the matter exion, shade of nd shoulders for exam ivory and silver- ok should read weak and expres- A profile = of course. bby. Mem.: her neck is too a-little f1 -like. T the ‘advice of whe owed to its classic ow ‘thy sald, extreme She mext turns her attention “to _her gown—its material, color and cut—until #he co t profit by e mdvice of Rubens or a Murillo e throws awa er Jewels she en she reserving only a few pearl uts on, her glad expression esents herself before the cam. the ertist-photographer, and he wrinkles and freckles and e flesh here and puts on a untfl-—well, until her friends e works o akes off & hie premise ne her 1 r likewise do hfs Let the or—well t sound he est, from the advice and every woman .to. work out er confusion of the one who re- > aid her in the laudable attempt to make a beauty -of herseif. the first place, don't wait un if. you are going the best e s trom & photograr ear ¥ day before the cares, which infest it have left their mark on' mind and bods It ig remarkable how a_fatigued mind or body finds its way to_the telltale fea- tures, and more especially so when:you to “keep: quite: still and Jook point- to bear -in mind to sélf plenty me to. get to so that one need ‘nof arrive re hot and flurried ‘and generally un- Remember that hurrying often makes the face T i red comes out dark a res ot always desirable AR creating frequently makes.: the =k shine,- ‘&nd that results -in- strong lights: and shades, thus giving the im- on of & dark complexion irthermore, in your hurry vou:are apt fo_be put -out. of breath and; pertiaps, out of temiper. Under. ordinary conditions, and espe- with lighi complexjons; blue._ eye r and light clothes, a:well-light- cloudy: day is much better than bright which is likely to develop every imperfection. “What shall. T wear?" "This is another question to be settied - know her. Nothing 1s . prettier or mors -effective . ghouldn’t e the ‘best :than = white, cream ' white .preferably P e tograph, -but if ‘the sub- ay takes white, and sky blue gererally $8ct be 3 4 this is the opportunity comes out white, but neither- gives the de Physique 1 exhibition. in variety of the )us ramifications uring the past year, s Notwithstanding the ap- exclusive name which it bears; ational in its ope- teresting devices were rivance was a wall of ng and constantly changing colors of ght, the effect being produced by a-dif- t series of electric lights, aiternate- ed on and off by a revolving s was intended as a startling n for fetes or advertisement pur- ne room was devoted to & practical ex- hibition of the varied utilizations of acety- ne gas, among Which the acetylene wgipe Stood - prominent. A practical of how well acetylene gas is for welding steel was given by an engineer. His eyes were protected ‘with goggles similar to those utilized by auto- m .. he blowpipe was then brought o bear upon the requigite pieces of metals to be welded and so terrific was the heat sroduced that the operation was accom- PARIS INVENTION EXHIBIT. plithed in a few moments. Professor Curie,' who has long been en- gaged in the investigation of radium., ex- hibited the -pecullar luminous” properties of the substance.. Heé had a small p of radium measuring ahout one cubic inch and which had cost 32000 to- produce. “A German firm, when they. received news of Professor Curle’s discovery. some months ago, ‘offered 10_extract a sufficient quan- tity of the substance from the galts of barium at thelr own expense for the pur- pose of -this exhibition. Several’ tons of the salt were required to produce even a cubic’ inch. This substance shines ke a lamp and also imparts a phosphorescent effect upon certain materiale with which it is brought into contact; such-as zinc sulphide. This "is not a chemical, but purely a physical influence. Professor Curie displayed a retort, - containing a quantity of zinc sulphide, and connected the upper tube of the vessel evith another retort containing a .soiution of radium. Immediately the zinc.suviphide emitted a bright light. A small particle of radium rencers phosphorescent a volume of zinc sulphide a thousand times its bulk. An- other curjous feature of the substance is that the zinc sulphide retains its phos- phorescence for some time after the ra- dlum hsas been removed. effect of a whife dress. 'Dark .biue 't badly. - Lavencer. . having.. a _ce tain amount of red in il comes out gray. As for reds, dark scar et, geranium poep- py. they appear biack, and a pinkish. r rose tint, - light -gray, = Yedow or tan comes_out_dark -or-even black. ' Back I8 hard, ‘dense tone Sharp contrasts in ‘matertals or trim- mings are a decided detriment 16-a p eas- inig portrait and wide stripes, checks and plaids are to-be avolded. . * A" pale blue pittern; for -instance, ‘on’a white ground, 18 lost. A -pale vellow on a grourid would contrast ~in A start manner. ' Red on . black woull probably Qisappear, while biue on ‘biac g Js: like black and white. Thus it ean be seen that, as a.rule, many:colored ma- térials are’ very unsatisfactory compléxion; [« dark, rather’in- & Fuddy, or at.all sallow; tend- 1 ellow, db -not seie a dress with n & near the ‘fuce which’ is likely' to come out very.light. and so inaXe you look much darker than you reai by -force of contrast. A pale. :white complexion, with -very light “hair, ‘is. best accompanfed- vy ®ome: thing" which Wil not. come -uut 80 Very much: darker than the face. Otherwise the ‘result ‘is- lkely to be a hard, black and white ‘mixture, without ‘any haf tone. After thé color of fhe gown has been settled, there is:the quesflon: of material. Nothing comes out =o badly in a_picture as the glimmer of silk, or the gloss:-of satin; They are -so_stiff -that they form angular and.sharp folds. - Any material that ‘does not lend - jtself- easily to .soft folds is diffieult to light well. “The fabrick must - be. soft, - clinging and: pliant;” like woolens, _crepes; ‘velvets -and . fleecy” ma~ terials. These make gentle -curves ‘and dre best adapted for displaying to ad- vantage any gracefulness. of- figure. . Vel- vet ‘gives a peculiar goftness which can almost .be ‘felt. The line befween flésh and dress, both at neck and wrists, should ba softened. by lage. - Lace.comes out splendidly, and so do furs, which give one an air of ‘com- fort and elegance combined; 3 Jewels are best left at home, as they are ‘unbecoming, though pearls may.be worn. ““What is. that lump upon my -ear?' {n- digndntly demanded a pretty. girl of the - photographer; as she stood ‘studying her proofs. “That—er—lump? ‘Why, that. is your— er—diamond screw earring,’” 'stammered the ‘photographer. “They . always take that . way, but we never- sdy —anything about it." Lét there be no elaborate hairdressing. One can hardly dress the hair too loosely for a picture. 3 Mary - Anderson used to say that she arranged her hair as carefully. as if for a dinner party, and_then went to work and pulled it down again.. By that she meant that she /loosened it until it was fluffy around the head, forming a pretty setting for the face. It is well to remember that the shape of the face can be materially altered by ar- ranging the halr skillfully. For instance, if the face is fat and round like the full & ENGTH U T o RAPH. Wik JISPLRY THE ORESS N A THER e N HAN ™, (7 eI FeATURES R nto a Greek oval, uf w..0upe approximat- ing it by arran the “hair. bigh The thin woman's long nieck, tov. may almost: taken on wn appearance’ of deli- cite curves it she: will be careful about her. pos ~ Let -her - £it. with her si®w toward- the camera, and.then.turn the heid so.as to have a full front view df fthe face taken. If the chin recedes; by a deft tilting of the head {t may appearin.the photograph as & strong, attractive feature that If the nose is so preminent it throws ~ally the rest of the face out of ¢ountenance,- the photographer, by man- agement of the camera, can take the offending feature at an anglé at which it 1s softened apd brought hito’ relation ple- turesquely witli the rest .of the face. Should.on® have & very crooked nose, .a {hree-quarter face §s the best. % Eyes-show to better advantage in a full face pleture. tive in any way, a profile is best. Very few persons have good profiles, and a retreating chin, a'pug riose, or too full lips are shown in too bold rellef in a profile. All these unpleasant features ap- pear to. better advantage in a three-quar- ter, or full face picture: ) A sidewise turn of the head is always charming, and . with this pose a large, broad-lipped. mouth may be photograph- fcally made into the verlest rosebud of Cupld’s how that a woman ever had. An ugly forehead may. be ‘toned down into a most fetching one by turning the head. tp or-down, and a face hopelessly plain may be metamorphosed by picturing it sidewise, so that the tip of a rose ear may be seen, and the graceful curves of the neck and shoulders draped low. * The side of the face taken depends on the face. It {s-rarely that both sides of the face are the same. As a rule the left side s the prettier. An obnoxious mole, too prominent for a beauty spot, may be covered with wax and powdered over. A-light veiling may moon in &ll its glory it can be made over be draped. over scars or brulses.- If they -are weak or defec-% Une ¢f the most famous beauties, the Finpress Louise. ‘tad a frightiul scar upou her ck just back of the To hide it she always drew & quantity of wuite tulle ross hier graceful throat aid over th afliicted side of her head. -The effect was charming and everywhere the picture is regarded @s an ideal head, but few know- irg that the gauzy drapery conceals an tg'y. Bear. you can smile naturally to order, sk pleasant, for the re- be hearirending . miiirg to order is usually a dismal fuiiure @nd-but ‘the veneer of gladness. As to the pose, the sitting still da and lookirg: pleasant in a stiff = backed cl air. have gone, never o return. Strik- 11 g ari attituce has given place to natural posing. - One, ‘however, cannot flop into chau with the arms-in any.position and cail thut natural posing. Fose must_ meéan something. I one ‘sity érect, with the head siightly Crooping, It gives one. an expression of modesty-or contemplation. If . “without (hauging the pose of .the Gody or-headthe «)es are raised, an ex- jiression -of ‘inter¢st results. To give an impression of dignity one $ho have the eves level, with the chin sl 'ghtly -elevated. Elevation gives, -constiously or - uncoi- sclously, a sense of superiority or author- it Pogsibly that is why a\king or other nitary sits so that he looks down upon ‘ubjects, who ‘look up’ In adoration, paty” or suppilcation. h entr, Answers tp Correspondents. 1da-S.—For freckles use a lotlon of: 2 drams Carbionate of potassium. 1 dram Common. salt.. Orange flower water. -1 ounce Rose water.... 4 ounces Touch the freckles with a camel's halr brush“dipped in this lotion. Louise L. L.—For tiny white specks on the finger nalls apply. one-half ounce tinc- ture of myrrh, one ounce vinegar and oiie-half ounce flour of sulphur. Rub on the nalls once a day and the spots will soon disappear. For an oily skin put one ounce-each of carbonate of soda and pow- Jered - borax ‘In ome-half pint of warm water. Pour @ little of this on a linen cloth and wipe the face. It 1s an excel- lent lotion for a shiny face. . Blizabeth—For brown spots on the face bathe with water as hot as can be borne without scalding, holding hot cloths on the face. At night, after the application of hot water, apply an emollient made by adding one dram of glycerin and eight grains. of bicarbonate of soda to ono ounce spermacet! salve. — ¥. E. G.—For dandruft rub on the scalp castor oll and cologne, two and a half ounces of ofl to one-half pint of cologne. For oily hair wash once a' week In warm water containing : powdered borax, the proportion being a dram of borax to one quart of water. Rinse with clear, cold ‘water. E Kancy K.—For ‘ingrowing finger nalls you must devote swenty 3 { minutes dally to_ thelr care. Soak the finger tips in warm olive. or almond oil, at the same time mussaging each nail, or rather the flesh about it, rubbing it away from-the nail. 1—With Grace gray eyes, dark Lrown bair and a light complexion with 1k checks, you may wear blue, helios trore, olive, ertmson and cream white. rplexed Patty.—For red hands, try a 1x lotion made of Puwdered bo .1 dram Glycerin : ? 1 ounce Bay rum sufficient to make four ounc Mix thoroughly and bottle. Pour a lit- tle on a cloth wnich has been dipped in hot water and rub the hands carefuily. Arm and Elbow—“How can T make a pretty arm and elbow?" Your arm prob- ably needs development to give it size and shape. Take a walking cane, and, stand- ing-erect, with the chin-up as high as pos- sible, hold the cane by one end and far out from the body. Twirl it far over one way, then as far over the other as you can, till.the finger tips are turned upward. Do this twenty minutes without stopping: of course, cach arm must be exercised. Before two weeks have passed you will find that you twirl the stick fifty times without stopping almost as easily as you did twenty times at firgt before the fore- arm gets stronger.. The arm will be all of a_twelfth of an inch larger by the end of the month, and much improved fn shape. For roughness of skin, rub the arms well with rosewater and glycerin, to which is added a few drops of lemon julce. 1. P. S.—If you suffer from tender feet, soak the feet once a week in hot water, to which has been added a piece of saltpetre the size of a walnut to.a gallon of water. Rinse with clear, cold water. Anxious and Perplexed.—“I have dark hair and dark blue eyes, but my eyebrows and evelashes are very light. What can I dn?” For light eyebrows and eyelashes boil ore-quarter pound walnut. bark in one quart water and then add one-half teaspoonful powdered alum to set the color; this gives a dark brown shade. Tt AxX:. A SIOE ~ Ways TURN oF THE HEAD 13 ALWAYS CHARM= INGE " harmless stain for eyebrows and eye- lashes is made by melting one-quarter pound of wax, adding two ounces olive ofl and enough charred cork to color it. Marion—For the moles on your face which grou think more nearly resemble treckles, use: Muriate ammonia, veeee 1 dram D te muriatic acid.......e.... 1 dram Tincture of benzoin. . 3 drams Rose water —— Glynerin e 108 Touch the moles twice dally with & small brush dipped in this lotion. the bottle well befors using. I can also give you another recipe: Ol of lemon . Citric actd . Ofl of sweet almon Glycerin Rose water Shake Olive.—The best remedy for & sty is to apply cloths wrung out of hot water as hot as can be borne. Bathe the eyes daily with warm water containing spirits of camphor—the proportion being § drops to half a cup of water. Alice P.—For bad breath take a tea spoonful of tincture of rhubarb in a little water for three consecutive mornings. Atter five days repeat the dose until nine teaspoonfuls have been taken. Bad breath is caused by a deranged condition of the stomach or by decayed teeth. Per- haps you need to consult a dentist. Al- cohol and water will often allay itching of the skin. Mrs. R. M. 8.—Recipes for cold cream for the complexion are asked for: Cold Cream of Roses.—Melt together 13§ ounces each of white wax and sperma- cet!, adding four ounces almond ofl; stir well, then add slowly 2 ounces of rose water and 5 drops rose perfume. BStir until cool Psyche Cream.—Ofl of almonds, 8 glycerin, 34 ounce, tincture of ben- 15 drops, and a few drops of per- fume. Violet honey made Into a paste with white of Cream. — Barley meal and s applied with a small brysh. Another egg and perfumed with violet. PRER RIS R EX R CURIOUS USE FOR ELK HORN. N past centuries vast herds of elk cov- ered the West. Rapidly they became rarer ‘and rarer. Probably during tke present century the animal will be- come extinct. Up to 1842 it was found in New York State, and later in Pennsylva- nia, but it has been driven from place to place until many of the regions where it once roamed In vast herds know it no ‘more. So rare Is it In Caiifornia that the two or three small herds are as well lo- cated as herds of cattle. Next to the moose the elk is the largest of the deer family, and of all the tribe it i{s the most commanding and splendid example of big game. Those who have hunted it In Montana, that being at present the best locality, have been amazed to find in cer- tain localities vast numbers of horns, for- getting that. the wapitl regularly casts iis horns. Most of the horns are shed on the winter range; and in the vicinity of the Green River country, Montana, and the adja- cent mountains, thousands of such horns can be picked up, or found In all stages of ‘decay, in some places so thick that the observer, not posted as to the actual facts of the place, might assume that there had been a general slaughter. Hundreds of these horns are shipped all over the country as trophles, but in all the Mon- tana towns they are used for a much more common purpose. A fence in one of the principal streets of Livingston, Montana, is made entigely of wapiti horns, dove- tailed together, so that a perfect and ideal fence is the result, one calculated to attract widespread attention. The horns-are not tak as some tourists sup- pose, from the deer, so representing the destruction of the animal, but have been pickeéd up on the winter range and taken to the town or city f this apecific pu pose. In the fence Livingston there are two or three hundred wapit: horns, renresenting ome hundred and fifty ani- mals, The horns are employed not only for fences, but for chairs, four or five being interwoven and forming a framework to the seat and back Pi frames are also made from them, and hundreds find thelr way into manufacty where they are cut up In handles and used in th® manufacture of sporting goods of various kinds. Many are also employed in the decoration of houses. Onme of the famous hotels of Colo- rado took its name from the antlers, bear- ing in its rooms some fine examples of the horns.