The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 18, 1903, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALL. ME What Miss Neil spective ht Whi Delicate on and Her Mother-in-Law e Abroad—Dainty New Ways to at the Ancient and Honor- e Boa—The Countess de Castellane in the Lovely Red h the Count George Gould’s Tailored ess—The e Who Have the n the World of Fashion— s of Mrs. Admires— New Gowns of Latest Mark Hanna Alice Roosevelt. Au gus'; Prescott. gir] no longer waves her she waves her boa! 24 been the Nancy Lee of e stood and g she would I er boa across the sea, in- S il Hher The Sonas 35 - ’ y girl, and you e t witho it styles of boa there bel = the conventional a but a col- t lived in other days it ee calle by a wver old- ; now it comes out, expensive, and a fur boa, & a cape with stoles forr sts something u want to pay that much for e of sable and is as deep as der. It lles flat do not affect the Medic r these t is very wide d so long e newest of these t st touches the stre e cape is slit to form two strips, these there is set in a wide roidery. This may be an inch r inches, as you please. It is in Oriental designs and is decorative. re ollar of this kind really takes e of a coat for woman does not v as she once did e Warm Shoulder Cape. s & time-—sur you can re- ber 1 ng tell o wh lovely n wore leggings, and when she put or shawl under her winter Her hands we icased in woole oves, which were put on outside her kid gloves, and around her shouiders there was a cape that had a collar which hid Thus protected she added a veil nd went forth into the blasts of Janu- her ears. - ea everything along the e except the coat and the fur often she does not wear the if worn is only for pretti- her in the lea 1 is or culture countr blood tingles covering. ) e shoulder cape pro- ngs fore a and to keep he an Orier ilder line. 1 boa is flat and 1s lined i that the under side For this they take a d apply to it the well as to al plece Is set e Orlental embrolderies. Or they handwork it in roses and vines. Oec- caslonally see an under side lined with narrow r hings and chiffon, which is very good purpose, as It sup- plies a becoming padding to the shoul- ders To make a shirred chiffon lining you take the chiffon and line it with very thin taffeta or with China silk. You then put in the shirrings, placing them about half an inch apart. The short strings are all drawn up at once and the result is a very pretty shirred under surface. This is used as a lining material. It Is in vogue for linings of fur coats, for opera cape linings and for fur collars and all other nice garments. Making a 1803 Boa. To make an up to date boa out of an old one, if it be a fur affair you can line it with taffeta, even thougn it be round. Press it as flat as possible and line it. To make it wider and flatter you can border it with brocade, putting a strip of bro- cade at each side. Now, as a finishing touch, you can place bunches of talls upon the ends of the boa, so that they almost touch the ground, and you can place a bunch half way up, just along the bust line. This will give you something handsome and warm enough for & me- dium cold day. But the actual innovations come in g the llnes of the silk ¥Rd muslin af- rs. These get bigger and bigger until ou have an armful when you attempt to carry one. In describing these it would be difficult to give half the materials that are employed. There are fringes used In great varieties, and one of the recent ones was entirely made of taffeta bordered along each edge with a long, many-col- ored, silky fringe. The C(ountess de Castellane has many new things prepared for her far in ad- vanee of the s n's modes and some of these look almost grotesque as new fash- ions invariably do One shows a neck ruffle of black taffela with border of white taffeta ruching along each edge. The ruching is edged with chenille and from every inch of the chenille hangs a little bunch of-tassels. This is thrown around the neck over a fur coat, making the shoulders of her rather short ladyship a little bit too chunky. But what of that, when the neck ruffie is The short affairs are very wide and the e built with an eye to color and to the combination of many materials. The Countess wears one that is in her favorite color, navy biue, and she looks very pretty in it. It is very full and is touched with white, which is in the form of little dots of white panne velvet fas- tened on the silk muslin. A Countess in Cardinal Colors. The favorite color of the Count Is cardl- 1, and the Countess wears it {n its most brilliant form when she goes out in the evening. One of these gowns shows a trimming of the most remarkable flowers, large and red and standing out from the gown in all their creepy luster. The cen- ter of the flowers is black and that is the only relief to the skirt. One of the fads of the Countess is the wearing of a waist that differs from the skirt, giving an almost shirt waist effect. The raindrop materials, showing drops of color upon & white groundwork, are often chosen by her. The raindrop goods do not go out of style, and one recognizes in them the old American polka dot, under a nice new English title. When one conslders that the gowns of the Countess de Castellane reflect the very latest French modes, for they were all specially desjgned for her by Paris couturjeres, then one realizes that here, indeed, are the coming styles. For Paris does lead the world in many respects, though not in all, and it is nice to know that American fashions are rapidly com- ing to the fore. American fashions are w abroad in the matter of shoes, in collars and In shirt walist: But when It comes to hats, to fancy sleeves and to the latest cut of skirt, one looks toward Pa as a matter of habit, and also for hows and furbe- lows. But in the last Vienna must not be forgotten. But in this respect, there is a plece of news to be told which says that the Parls designers are studying in New York, and many of the “real Paris styles” are sent from New York to Parls, lat to reap- pear as genuine Parlsian modes. New Neck Ruffles. In the neck ruffle line th must be mentioned that old yet now very new neck trimming, the ostrich her boa This comes this vear very long indeed and instead of being tled under the chin, it is taken and fastened with a wide blue enameled pin, which is as elezant as the purse can afford. The pin can be in white or in gold, or in the new green stones which are coming out now under many and many a name. Upon the pin the ele- »Rance of many a boa depends. "There is a fancy for getting a wide gun metal clasp, which comes together in the front in such a manner that, instead of making the boa meet, It leaves an open space, and here are scen some precious stones or their imitation. Not very sooth- ing to the throat, is this style, but very delicious to one's sense of beauty, even though it invite pneumonia. When buying your length of boa try to afford enough, if it be a feathery concep- tion, to twine around your hat; for they are taking pleces of boa and making them serve as ostrich feathers. There is very little difference in the looks, but a great deal of difference in the price. And you can get it in all colors. There is a member of the 400 who 1s beautiful, but has not as much money as the others. Not long ago she appeared at the grand opera fully hatted. Around her neck there was a turquoise blue os- trich feather boa and around her hat theére was a wide trimming of the same. It was a very wide hat, something on the Gainsborough order, though flat on top; and the feathers edged It charmingiy, looking for all the world as though a ro- mantic feather floated from behind. It was only an eighth of e yard of feather trimming, but as pretty as an $18 feather. Try the experiment and be thankful that you have discovered a very nice make- shift. It will save you a dollar or two. 1f you have in the family a fur boa of the ancient and honorable order of boas of the long ago there i a chance for you and for it s to 1§ down fon Get 1t ot and ch z the middle of it set a dc ruching. This brings it up Miss Neilson’s Boa. Miss Neilson, whilé abroad bu, tro color 1 then, uble chif- to date. g her eau, in company with her prospec- tive mother-in-law, purchased one of these boas, not an’ old one, but one so new that the winds of the Arctic zone had hardly blown off it. It was a sable affair, wide and flat and very long and very deep on the shoulders. All around the neck and down each side, ri t to the very end, there was set a chiffon ruching, which was tacked into the middle of the boa, chiffon stripe runnin ough 1t. It was set deep in the fur a when you first looked at it you wondered what manner of ruching this could be, set o deep in the fur and apparently grown there forever. Miss Neilson has another boa brought for her from the steppes of the land of the Persian lamb. It is made from the k y lamb and it is trimmed with tiny ruchings of chiffon put on in bands across the fur, about six inches apart On the threshold of the New Year one sces many new fashions waiting for one. These are new, or are partially new, for the march of fashion is ever onward through a country only partially ex- plored. New features are introduced, im. provements are made, and in many ways the old is changed for the new. The Countess de Castellane wears a shoulder. cape which is a little deeper than her shoulders. It is made of satin cloth and it is cut perfectly round. It is fastened down the front under a silk mus- lin ruching which goes around the neck, making a nice stock. The edges of this cape are bordered with hand applied ribbon put on in swirls, The ribbon is half an inch wide and the design i3 a conventional one. The colors are black upon a pinkish fawn. Mrs, Mark Hanna’s Cape. Mrs. Mark Hanna wears a shoulder cape which 1s not a cape at all, for it does not fly fres from the garment, but is attached. It is & littls more than shoul- der deep and might be one of those very deep yokes. Tt is made of brocaded silk with a little lace applied to the brocade and the lower edge is trimmed with thres narrow rows of black satin ribbon which are covered with fagot stitching. A young woman who is visiting Mrs, Hanna wears a triple ghoulder cape, ot ette. There are thres capes, the ne extending over the sho pmost one more than six s The upper edge of the c ribbon, w " to ‘the black, and pe is of heavy black sat white ribbon applied double bands of ihe same extend down the front. This little garment can be worn with any gown Then there is another shoulder cape, which would round were it not cut into big points In the front with the points extending down to the wal al- most As the New Year dawns woman is tend- ing/toward the graceful. She wants to be clinging, and, while there is no cation that she is going to wear the tie- back, still the tightly fitting rts do certain remind one of the days when every woman had to minee along, for she could not ta a g step. The new skirts, s you first see them, were you to go through every fashionable emporium in town, would display them- selves in one of various forms. The most popular of the street skirts ts the one t is now being worn by M George Gould. It i3 a black cloth, ¢ with slot seams. The seams are released about eighteen inches from tha or, with the resuit that the skirt flares quite suddenly and makes a fullness around the foot. The fullness is relieved from flap- piness by the stiff, very elegant silk ing, which costs, no doubt, as much as the skirt. It is not going to matter what you pay for your gown, so long as you get the new styles. There come the prettiest pos- sible dresses, that bear close inspection very nicely, yet that cost very little It is more in the way you select the colors, more in the manner you select the goods, more in the way you make them up and more in the cleverness with which you make the style conform to your ewn style than anything else. Your Form for 1903. Corsets are changing just a trifle, but the straight front which all the good cor~ sets boast now, will continue In vogue. The hips are inclined to be & trifle full. The idea of the stralght back Is also prevalent, and it looks as though there were no place for the woman with too solid flesh. The new corsets give one s delightfully slender look, and they are also well adapted to the blouses which are In style. Theé blouse is more to be seen than even, and the newest ones are treated to an anaziog amount of trimming ams forward towar is a deep shoulder c braid. The sieeves a: braided cuffs and with brald on the bal- loons. Another Washington girl is wearing & blouse suit trimmed with brown brald, a brown tdbsels finishing each band of the brald. few Around her neck this yourg woman, who a daughter of wealth, we - flat collarette with stole ends; and down through the fur there is an appli- ace flowers underlald with silk. cation of . the who ssed down into the fur and many stitches that keep it all firm. y of the tallored gowns are treated plicity whicn vorders on abso- ite P ess. One of thess is a biack cloth trimmed with a narrow band of red Ivet around the collar and there is & with a raid is very interesting. And not it attract the attemtion of the , but it fascinates the home dress- r, who seeg in it & enance of saving labor. The soutache is put on with ma- chine stitching. The braid i8 applied to the goods and is stitched in place by ma- chine stitching, which 18 put through the middle of it. How to Use Braid braid is stitched on with black black brald is put on with white Dark blue brald is applied with blue thread and the red alds ars ted to white stitching. The stitching is put in on the right side and the threads are as long and as visible as possible. This has the effect of narrow This is a very simple mat home dressmaker and will 1 know that Mme. La Mode is her best taflored gowns In that way. Then there is another hint for the home dressmakers, but this one I8 along the line of fringes. Fringe is taken and made to formea hip yoke. It i3 as deep as pos- aible and the top s, of course, knotted and made into & deep heéading. More new modes thers are, of course, ‘but surely no woman can expect to make more than one gown at once, for not evey Rome wag bullt i & day,