The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 30, 1902, Page 15

RNOCHAN f,the Ladies’ Ke and champlon cross- er of America, wears se days a Very neat sut a shirt waist sult. which is , with a lincs. moderate faie ’ The upper par o vreasted, with a and very neat revers of sieccves become very large below W d they are finished w tches the spiked to ck jet na.y { 50 exquisite a society Sportswo- worn under h of taffeta or of e biouse is heavy The Shirt Waist Suit. u go into the shops to buy a street e chances are that you will be waist suit. The strong a hoid € € y that it seems im- ss out even for ihe sea- son, and its date form is that of the winter s costume. me has these feat- was in the new hairy P work was ver it. The placed, as kled in a a skirt laid in our in the e frill below laiting each ns. The beit cut pointed Beauty’s Gown. the noted English shirt waist th trimmed broa two parts, waist and s d in very wide side all way around the t away from the front ack. Down each side 3 e is laid 2 bunch of tassels, very glossy. shirt waist, with lown each side of the sels arranged around rine, who is the prettiest girl s season, is of the blonde T dresses a great deal in white, s she who is said to have set the for wearing white broadcloth suits on the street. One of Miss Thynne's gowns is a white satin cloth black velvet strap- unce is headed with ck velvet and the ith black velvet strap- t suit fairly holds attention in Lon- dignified matrons as the Duchess of t with them surely rrect. The Duchess, ta¥'ng a cure, ap- three ur four hand- One is a distinct red, nze green and pip- b is partial to on annually sweep skirt, while there are illa fur, cut for a double paneling the skirt, between the : The fur is not inches wide. THE . SUNDAY CALL. o he shirt walst s a straight thing,” with'a panel of fur down the front and big buttons at each side set in rosettes of green velvet. ‘And of this way of treating buttons a great deal can be. safd. .Rosettes of vel- vet of all Colors are made and flattened out.: Then, in the middie of the rose’ - there is set a button. There is another way of treating the rosette. * It_is made up like & cartwheel. For this it takes about half a yard of velvet, two inches wide. The velvet is gathered along one edge and pulled into a wheél. Ir the middle of the wheel a button is sewed. Still another button fancy requires lit- tle Pits of black velvet ribbon. Ribbon one inch wide is cut into lengths four inches long. . These are made Into little bowknots, without ends, and & button Is sewed Into the middle of each one. Bultons come in sets of six each to be treated In this manner; and, if you prefer to do so. veu ean vary your buttens and use odd ones on your walst. In button fancles the turquoise rule, for there is somcthing dressy about the tur- quoise button. Cut steel, cut silver, pol- ished gold, dull goid and gun metal are all made up into buttons and dotted with gems. The jeweled buttons look much more elegant when they have a background of black velvet and, for that reason, the modistes say they are constructing little oddities in the. way of ribbon bows &nd are setting the buttons in the bows. Besides the jeweled buttons, and there are new ideas in these, there are the but- tons of coral. And there are the cameo buttons and the beautiful blagk buttons, somie of which are in black wood, and somé in jet and in enamel. The Braided Trhm‘:lngs. A great many of the shirt walsts are fastened with the braided ornament; and here, too, are seen novelties. A loop of braid with a tassel connected with anoth- er loop. with tassel, is placed upon the bust and one is placed above it and one beldw it. Thus the front of the shirt waist suit is trimmed. The skirt may have a repetition of this decoration. The braided trimming is seen upon the cuffs of waists, where a little braided or- pament serves as a foundation for half a dozen little tassels which hang from it The fringes and bralds combined show pretty designs. There Is the braid with fringe fastened along one edge, and there are passementeries with fringe set be- neath. These trimmings, while not fussy, add a certain distinction to .a gown and, if well ‘arranged, the dress needs no other trimming. hs It is a season for wheels In trimming. Little wheels of brald are fastened to the outer side of cuffs to trim them. And, -Again, wheels of braid are set all around the cuff, -Braided wheéls are placed around the stocks’ of gowns. and you see queer little circular ornaments -of braid dding duty across yoke fronts and down each gide, in"panel design. . So virylent a form has the fancy for wheels taken that.you find needlewomen making wheels for dress trimmings. They take the large round curtain rings and buttonhole stitch them with heavy silk. The rings, which must Be large enough to slip over a silver half dollar, aré now strunk upon’wide liberty silk ribbon and used for a walst trimming and for a skirt trimming. Particularly are wheels used for belts. A dozen are strung upon a ribbon and the STREEY. wamm, ~ M ribbon is fastened around the waist and cgught with a buckle in front. The wheels arranged as flat as possible, and & similar design is carried out in the stock. A very beautiful cream cloth shirt waist-suit was trimmed with wheels that were buttonhole stitched with black silic. Lovely coarse. filet lace was drawn through the rings and the side of the skirt was paneled with this trimming. b Little Fancies i~ Velvet. They take cart wheels of velvet, as big as a trade dollar, and place a l'ttle jet ornament in the middle. They then taze the wheels and place them at Intervals around the skirt at the head of the flounce, where they mal & very nice trimming. The presence of the trim little velvet coat collar is noticed. This is similar to the velvet coat collar seen on-a man’s overcoat, and it consists merely of & strip of velvet two inches wide, collar shaped and turned over. This style Is so very neat and so becoming that its return to favor is welcomed by women in general. With the turnover velvet collar there is worr: the little plain velvet cuff about three inches wide and the little- narrow velvet belt. A coat sleeve revival is ‘also promised and in the form of the sleeve that fits tightly all the way down the arm. This sleeve is close and has no baggings any- where; it ry simply finished with stitching. This plain sleeve is one that is seen, now and then, but it must be confessed that the droopy sleeve is much more popular. In the shirt waist costumes there is wide vdriety of sleeve. There is the sleeve with the undersleeve and this has not by any means gone out. And there 18 the sleeve with the slit at the back, through which the sleeve is pulled out In order that it may hang in a bag below. A very new slesve is the one that Is cut with the under part baggy, but with the bagginess gathered into a cuff; the top is plain. ‘A sleeve that Is liked, for all the year round wear, has thé very tull lower part. This full or baggy part is laid In side plaits and caught 'Fto B cuff. There is another way of trfating this sleeve, which Is to cut it so that it makes a point at the back, like the cor- Ter of a pillow case. The sleeve thenm comes In under a cuff. Dressy Street Sleeves. The cuft finish, while not uniyersal, i seen a great deal. The cuff is from one to four inches wide, and is finished with little bands of braid in two or three colors. Dressiest of all are, the sléeves that show a pagoda finish with a very ‘wide flare cuff at the hand. This can be ex= tremely broad ard the undersleeve, which is the sleeve of the walst, can be a fancy one. Shirt walst jeweiry is a thing that is conspicuous this year. Lar metal clasps come for the collar, and to mateh these clasps there are ornaments for waists and cuffs; also buckles for the belt. Sleeve links and links for buttoning the front of the walst are seen, and there are countless novelties in the way of col= cred beads that come for hanging around the neck. Strings of Oriental beads and the shirt waist seem to go together. Long strings dangle below the waist line and in the beads are set fancy ornaments of various kinds. One beaded fancy is to loop the. long string of beads so that the loop. passes through one of the buttonholes of the waist. A trifle, called a dangle, may hang fromy the chain. The dangle may be in the form: of a little silver box with a powder fluff inside, or it may be a watch, or some feminine trifle. The dangling ornament seems to find & congenial place upon the shirt waist cos- tume, and there is scarcely a suit that has not its hanging trifle. The fob is & thing that is liked by the smart woman, and the chatelaine Is. another popular. fancy. From the neck there hangs an an‘ique of some sort and from the beit there dangles another. The effect i3 nat- ty rather thau tawdry, for the ornaments are, as a rule, very well made In this season of fancy jewelry. Many are posi- tively sincere in that they match the costume so well. A Scottish tweed gown has a thistle chatelaine hanging from the side, showing half a dozen thistles, each with a purpose, namely, as bonbenniere, vinaigrette, pencil, powder fluff, empire fan and date book. A Heavy Lace Season. Coarse lace also plays an important part. in the trimming of the shirt waist of winter, and even in the decoration of the shirt waist costume. Egyptian lace, all curious little figures, with the heads of animals and the idols of the country, is used upon skirts, and the filet laces of modern: pattern as well as the aatique filet laces ars+ seen. With the lace trizmed waist and the lace trimmed gkir: there is worn a hat of all lace, and the lace of which the hat is made matches the lace of the skirt. In taking notes upon tk- shirt waist costumes one is inclined to see, first, the great liberty which is taken with plait- ings. Not only are all kinds of plaits used, but they are used in all kinds of ways. A cloth skirt was lald in box plaite around the hips. They were of the in- verted plait style, with the plaits stitched down so that they added nothing to the size of the hips. The peculiarity of this treatment ap~ peared later, when at the foot of the skirt the plaits were released and replait- ed so that the box plalts were on the tight side. A big braided ornament hid the place where the style of plaiting was reversed. Plaits that lle very flat around the band are caught around the hips with lace ore nements, the lace being a heavy antique variety. The plaited flounce is worn, and for this the flounce is taken and laid ta little groups of plaits, six plaits In & group, with Intervals between the groupss But if the skirts have pecullarities the shirt waists of winter have also their o styles. The separate shirt walst—that the walst which has no skirt to mateh I is in very light coior, and it resembles the waist of summer in that it is thin, of looks so. 3 A beautiful shirt waist was In silk mus= lin made up with white silk embroidery and Irish crochet lace. There were threq kinds of lace in the pattern, ome of th laces showing a bunch of grapes wit leaves. The embroldered 'English lace, which is really a French lace, is unique for trimming purposes, for it has the e fect of embroidery and lace combined. Every art 1s now employed to make ‘walst warm enough for winter wear, y looking light and thin and finey A walst that is exquisite In its effects 18 made all of lace, the kind of Jace being an Oriental net. Upon this net a grape pat- tern stands out in exquisitely bold design. Under the net sleeves there are sleeves of ‘white taffeta, which are confined at the wrist under bands of Oriental silk em- broidery. A strip of the Oriental silf goes right down the middle of the front and another strip forms the belt. The winter shirt waist is white whep dressiness is sought, and not less than six lovely white waists were shipped to Vie enna fog the Duchess of Mariborough tg wear while taking her care. One of these walsts was made In white lace, with des signs in tan lace appliqued to the yoke, while a very pretty yellow lace made the vest and the undersleeves.