The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 23, 1902, Page 15

THE 'SUNPAY 'CALL. 15 AN EMDROLLERED PATALA -.?‘): ]"‘ 22 ‘\\ ) A) T FPEIGIHOrR. WITIT RIS JENDEISCIAS e coffee cup gowr fnc that she can get better re the robe which you put on ir &0\ n of a more poetic tone. The and in which you ap- Which are chosen by the fashion leaders " If you this year are sea green, shell and cameo YOU pink, greenish blue and the most charm- vou wear it all jng ghades of violet. These colors com- it off at lunch- bined with white are made into house dresses so lovely that they seem to the America dress as the Ameri- €ye a veritable poem of color and style. vour coffee cup gown un- _ BY house dress in this talk is meant not ’ % © a luncheon gown, nor a gown for after- ter luncheon; and in ., "yt one that is put on in the morn- ine all the jng and is worn at breakfast and for the for one’s lounging robe. It might be called a gen- room s for the breakfast room. eral utility gown, for it, if properly con- The ch not have the coffee cup Structed can be put to so many purposes. n takes her coffee American women have a pleasant cus. sl A Prsnth sein PO A Exsich wmes tom of coming home in the afternoon, after a tedious shopping tour, and of siip- ping on one of these house robes. They , 00 active rest from 5 to 6 and are in good trim for herself fully gdinner. fintshing touch 7pe Bnglish woman, on the other hand, 'g which is as pretty as remains all starched up in a shirtwaist and is really more tired when she goes to dress for the evening feast than she was when she came in from shopping. Eng- lish tea is served at 5 o'clock and the Eng- lish woman must be at her best during this, the closing hour of the afternoon. N The American woman Is lazier than her tching come for pngiich sister, though she gets the-credit tea gown, and there of heing more active. She is more careful igned apparently ot herself, more hygienic, and, may one say it, a little more selfish. She denies she slips on is a very loose sort of of the tea gown was t that the Amer- 5ok pretty in the handsome tea are all Lailt more for no other _ Mrs ic _who has been yergelf to her friends after 5 and she de- busy ances, OWDS yotes an hour or miore to getting rested a 'Or\'/ . Ey o ;—\ built in pefore she dresses for the meal which is a sh which 1i¢ called claret pe great event of her day. Her lounging red med with turquoise blue gown is, therefore, of more account to her. The newest forms of house gowns are those with Chinese inclinations. They have a flowing outline and the entire loose look which characterizes Chinese and Ja- panese garments. They are by no means like the Mother Hubbard variety, for this was a gown with a maternal look, not The two e put on in > dotted with , and the ed with blue of how pret- he colors al- monious a way. There in the construc- TN rTasr ; graceful nor stylish. It was too short and Capable of Fine Treatment. it made a woman look dumpy. It was too FETrCH IS rn of its romance. s robe, which full and it made her look stout. It was oFr =Zr s d be most delightful thing, is bobby and inconvenient and she feit as pper. uncomfortable in it as she looked. = OGU;":;: i it @itieceuce beiween Gowns With Trains. 1y s there is between NO gown, house or otherwise, is a suc- red gown one that is put to- Cess without its train, and the new Ori- with ¢ € fingers. ental house robes certainly do train. Some are care king of of them trail for yards upon the ground, t as well buy a Wwhile others are lapped over so that they _ put it on and are not more than six or eight inches to The yoke is perfectly plain and there is any more about the good where the train is concerned. a deep flounce around the feet. 1l with it, that is, But there must be that long, graceful line i€ 1o the rules of or the gown is not a success, Such Extravagant Gowns. rtistic taste and refine- More of the handsomest of the new As a trimming thére is a band of lace construction, you will Gud dresses are exqulsite In their sheen. They down the tront, around the flounce and on of a garment whic )t the new gla: e ¥ e g Rl Ne M itk b et {uiTotn jor LX) Lursilcs jandipidsr the Tnce therojas e is no reason why this should with cashmere. . Probably the best lining St little bits of velvet of a very pretty for the house dress is given a is the cashmere lining, for It is soft ana Shade of brown. ide and you can make it in al- warm and it gives the taffeta a body (The delicacy of the new house gown is e you desire which makes it seem a great deal richer Such 'l‘f,a‘,,e’}",‘;,f,',’“f"f’“f,dtlyt;‘pfi“ Rovos ady whose renow: han §t P B . man y e househol u;%jflw ‘:‘Znelu:'x(r“:“l: Sy 1mixrf;lrlur'fm:?fi:zs: (x!sre:‘:e:u:rig las‘:»“ Wherhdresserdl:,n one of zthesg con- :‘::b?;fi’ér:gd 1he deep sailor collar is also in a flowing robe. If a really nol ceptions. Many of them are extruvagan - n were to take this dress " The siceves are. the tworpart sioeves, In their outlay ‘of lace, and the most 'The Japancke Rouse cost is something a put i and belt it just precisely which are in such vogue on all gowns, beautiful underlays of handsome medal- Which every. woman Wants, for It Is very Helen of y wore hers, the resuit There is an under sleeve and an outer llOns are seen across the yoke and sledves fashionable. You "“‘"l m(; e it o !Cr&l’ :l would no doubt b t as ing. There sleeve, and the outer sleeve Is very large, and down the front. : . sBEC wiileheln SN O A nan tash. was @ great deal In the way those an- <o that it hangs almost to the floor. This _None of the house gowns, nd matter 10n it from a black satin, with lttle flow. clents ¢ cutline made them so falling or angel sleeve is not at all un- how elegant they may be, are impogsible = ¢'S Ppainted in the satin. e Orfental dress you r 0 wrapper tty. comfortable, but if cut properly it is for the needle of the woman who does fabrice are Eoue Sl 90: audthe Dersfin n choosing 3 room gown you must really quite the contrary, for it seems her own sewing, and with a very little in- SIIKS are not too thin. someth light in color, for unless somehow to dress up the arm and hand. genuity she can rhake her own dress, but A Japanese Dinner Coat. be all a i black, it is better in a It should be rather scanty on top with she will need to have the materials. And ~ In 'its bright red state this Japanese le bue e medium tones are warm all the fullness coming befow. It is very to select the right ones s something house eoat is for ‘mornings, and its pat- d serviceable, but they are less poetic wide and it falls very much like which will keep her busy, for there is the - tern is very simple.; It is cut off just be- ther black or white. the flowing sleeve, which was always a Wwidest range for artistic taste. low the hips, and 8 sleeves are very [ p r Wendell Holmes who favorite. A Dbeautiful house dress had wide wide indeed: ecached the virtues of the red house The nicest of house gowns are built for sleeves, with tight cuffs. In the cuffs In Washington, at. the famous dinner dress? And was it he who said that he ghow, for they are worn all the morning, there were handsome gold links. The parties which are given every winter, if he could, for every woman and there are few women who do not stock was also buttoned with gold links, they are golng to wear the Japanese din- a bright red cashmere gown to wear in occasionally see morning callers, resembling the cuff links. ner coat. It 4s a -loose, straight goat, the house in the morning? A gown which is remarkable for its The black cashmere house dress is with very wide sleeves cut in such a way Dr. Holmes was a great advocate of prettiness is made of a shade of burnt something that is very serviceable, and ‘that they fall square. It is to be made b red, for he considered it very cheering to orange liberty. This is a yellow which is this is a garment which could be worn ali - of black satin, and its lining will be the spirits and very good for the nerves. going to be very popular, and it is classed day, if necessary, of put on at.any time ' white satin -richly embroldéred in many He found it soothing, and he often told among the new shades, although burnt of the day. It is smart when it is hand colored flowers. nis patients to put on a red walst even grange is not strictly new. This gown is embroidered, and a very lovely specimen The Eton is appearing with the house i whole red gown could not be ob- gaccordion plaited across tne yoke and the shows three Tows of flowers embroidered dress and it' is cut off in a singularly . i d accordion plaits fall right down to the around the flounce.. The flounce, which pretty way. Instead of being very, very to be worn in the house all winter, with The cashmere house dress is in again, Colors That Are Poetic. fioor. The same plaiting Is carried across begins at the side, séems to extend across short, it is cut long enough to cover the a skirt to match. One needs merely a and it comes in very pretty form. It if a woman is supplied with the the back, and here again it falls to the the back. It is 18 inches wide at the sides belt line, whil¢ the front Is longer than shirtwaist underneath, or, if the Eton be comes cut in the wrapper shape, which - amount of nerves, and has not floor. The effect is as if the whole gown and 25 inches wide in the middle of the the belt and is pointed in toothpick points. buttoned high, one needs no shirtwaist is tight in the waist, close around the of this commodity, she will were accordion plaited, as indeed it is, back. The waist shows embroidery wpon It is made over cvery heavy canvas and is at all. belt and clinging to the hips, with the train quite long. Over this there is & lt- tle velvet trimmed Eton to match. The Eton has fronts, but no back. There is another house dress which is gaining in popularity and this is the one which is made with the Norfolk jacket. There is a skirt of cloth, and for this al- batross is good. sWith this is worn a little coat, with two box plaits in front and one in the back. The coat has a standing collar, which is embroidered and is fin- ished with a bow of ribbon. There are bright buttons down the front. Another house or room robe for the woman who is seeking novelty is made like the English Monte Carlo coat. There is a coat of three-quarters length made of taffeta, and th de with a taffeta skirt. The coat has a clasp at the throat, bui the lower part hangs open, revealing a ruffled chemisette. Novelties in Trimmings. In the making of a house dress you can really select an almost endless variety of modes from which to choose, for the room robes are now made on’ widely varied patierns. - You might as wel! get some- thing tasteful and becoming, for a room dress lasts a long time, and if it is not pretty it is disagreeable always. A novelty In room robes showed the lit- tle embroidered fan placed at ervals all over the material, which was a silk flannel in steel gray. A robe in an autumn trousseau will con- taln a negligee of such dignity that it could be worn into the dinning-room. The material is washable silk, lined with silk flannel, also washable. The outer side is trimmed with a cross stitching put on to form a = pattern. Stiff. little empire wreaths cover the whole surface, with here and there a very pfim little rose em- broidered in the middle of the wreath. Room jewelry is among the fads of the hour. This is extremely showy and must have a significance. The glass ball is seen set into jewelry of various kinds. A large clear ball, strung on a slender gold chain, is worn .around the neck- This is sup- posed to exert an influerce almost hyp- notic and certainly very comforting. The glass bz d for cuff cuttons and for the pin at the throat. A fad In room jewelry calls for plenty of coral. This cld-time material is now worn in long strings, the broken or irregular coral being the most popular. Coral beads, beautifully cut, are set into buttons, and great coral ornaments are strung from chains. In the fad for room jewelry there may be mentioned that which calls for the wearing of beads of colors. A regu- system is employed in the stringing, and the beads hang in long, handsome strands from the neck. Some of Fashion’s Oddities. A finish for the room robe is given by a double pufiing of taffeta, which is passed around the shoulders and fastened on the bust with a big fancy pin. The taffets is shirred so as to make an enormous roll, which is caught in the middle of the back, just at the yoke line, with an ornament. Again, it Is fastened in front, this time with a piece of jewelry similar to the one used in the back. They make a very neat little bolero, which is only a shoulder bolero. . There are arm holes, but not much else. The material is a very brilllant taffeta or satin. Over it there is an entire covering of lace. Around the edge of the bolero there is a little puffing ©of satin as a finish. There is gnother bolero which is worn in the room. It is made of heavy black lace. It is cut high in the neck, but it is very much abbreviated as to length. It is no deeper than the arm holes and consists only of a yoke and sleeves. The great ad- vantage of this is that it dresses up a gown immensely and makes an old one look just like new. A little late shoulder bolero also looks good with a shirt waist, so it can be worn interchangeably, either with the room robe or with the shirt waist. It would seem absurd to wear a hat in one's room. But there are megligee caps, and these are worn in bed sometimes and in the room and at the breakfast table. The idea is not very foreign to that of the old nightcap with which grandmother was familiar. The cap is made of silk, overlaid with lace, and it is fastened to the sides of the head with fancy pins. Its object is the concealment of the curling pins and of the hair. The coiffure that lies in waves all night is not apt to be dressed early in the morn- ing and for that reason the little lace morning cap is a very useful thing. If drawn on over locks that are half curling and wyolly disordered it takes on a pic- turesque appearaiice, which is very at- tractive. The caps come in blue and in white and In either cclor they are be- coming. A fad for the room s the Httle elbow sléeve, which is a sleeve made of lace and which is pulled on over the hand. It comes up to the elbow, where it fastens under an elastic. It is finished with & little bow of ribbon at the elbow.