The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 19, 1902, Page 10

HE lovellest conceits are stalking ebroad searching for eager buyers Bearching, because forsooth, the majority great of passers-by may and look and again. I of velvets and are a gust of wind would the four cormers of the Properly speaking these wraps are for show, but x thstanding there must amount of warmth in them, one and all have perfectly im- s. In fact the most con- about the evening wraps tzly appliqued or Persiza forming an outer cape. y, shimmering cloak much gusto has a mystery to most immediate prospect of n and with nothing hese beauties seem al- be a certa as they people must spend a ce money every year and they don't care what they spend it on as long as they are pleased for the time be- ing." Certal titully gowned of owning two wraps that c amount irls, no matter how beau- ve not been in the habit tinctly evening from four to y something d as lightly year San Fran- list of necessities 1old the cloak is ours, site of all is a chine heavily appliqued Great sprawly designs terly, aimlessly, and fluff fluffs and sh.nes d green chiffon—a se The chiffon is E ation, which does some mo immering, All around the bottom, foundation chiffo down attached to the 18 a heavy ruching of white d it falls in perfect cascadas front cloak, about the es and the huge col- nds one of sea ight and airy. igh about the kimono-shaped sle f the lar the ves. The back is tigh the waist and from there down very full. Large pleats being inserted just at the waist. The front is plain and straight, and indeed it could not very well be otherwise, as the lace permits of little or no trimming, A d collar, formed of but one plece of the lace, just falls over the shouiders, Not having usual top effect it adds to its quaintness by giving it a somewhat Y appearance The sleeves, as all each and every one of them, are very sweeping at the wrist. This particular pair are rather snug until below the el bow, the fullness being held in by several pleats, but they are all let out and are further helped to fluff and fly by quanti. ties of shirred mousseline. By the way, the lining is a heavenly blue and the \'arled» des caused by theXaised flow- ers and their thin background}s ¢l &nd extremely delicate. harming Cloth is little used, but it i swagger when made up in som style. A blue broadcloth, heavily :(r;‘::s with black velvet, is as striking & cloak @s any one could possibly desire. A yoke effect was chosen and rather closely ap- pliqued with black. The skirt is cut so as to be absolutely plain on the yoke, but to form ample fullness about the bottom. The blue is strapped with velvet about every five inches apart all about the cloak and extending about three-quarters of the length of it, where it merges into the appliqued pattern again. About five inches below the pattern the velvet commences, but instead of running up and down it runs round and is in four different widths, This, of course, breaks the extreme length &nd also takes away the narrow look which strip after strip is very apt to give, The sleeves are composed of two parts, One the kimona flowing, banded affair and another tight-fitting one that extends to the wrist and in reality serves as some. thing to keep one a wee bit warm and snug. The collar, too, is lined and inter- the sleeves are /in xceedingly W) SToDIo lined with mousseline, and when it is fas- tened snugly almost covers the ears. This one was meant fer use as well as looks and it serves its purpose admirably. White is a color much worn and univer- sally chosen this fall. The three-quarters length and tight-fitting back is pretty and frequently chosen for carriage purposes, as it is infinitely easier to hold up billows of fuff when the cloak is just out of the way. One wrap that particularly fetching is made of white satin. It has the regula- tion tight cloak back, and the fullness that is in the little skirt comes from the cut and the seams. Below the hip line the trimming is put on, first a roy of pleated chiffon about eight inches in depth and edged with a deep white inser- tion. Just where that row ceases another of the same kind and probably from the same bolt begins, while just under the second one is a frill of the chiffon to make them stand out well. The trimming, running round and round, takes from (he height, as well as being a slight change in the fashions, for this spring and sum- mer have been more striped than any- thing else. Thé sieeves are the marvels of the en- tire creation. Soft pleated chiffon, insert- ed in the satin,’runs the entire length of the sleeve. Then commences a lattice work of white velvet ribbon and just at the bend of the elbow the chiffon is al- lowed to fly free. It is a wonderfuily graceful sleeve and should be vastly be- coming to almcst any one, whether she is slender or not, as much softness would e a multitude of sins. The salior collar 1s heavily appliqued with a sort of rose trimming, .a lace that blends from the cream into the deeper color and again merges into the white, where it is lost for good and all in the finishing ruchings. Such a wrap is ele- gant, but it loses its individuality when worn with anything other than black, and the woman who is bright and who wants to show her frocks to the best advantage is clever enough to put a light wrap over a dark gown, or a dark cloak over something white and then, if she is wiser still and the weather permits, she will never close it entirely at the throat. Nothing looks sweeter than a handsome evening gown and wrap and now and then a fleeting glimpse of the nmeck and shoulders. Of course, there are cloaks and capes, the first being more worn by girls and the latter by the matrons. One. that is easy to slip off and on is made after the fashion of a military cape, only, to be sure, somewhat longer. The collar and cloak are one and the same piece and the trimming {s all that makes it dainty and smart. Small black velvet buttons are studded on at various angles and to form‘a de- sign, while just above and below them is a pattern of bow knots in Irish lace. As a finishing touch a heavy pleating of white is scalloped on the bottom. The most stunning idea of the season is something quite different. from any of these. In the first place the color is not the same, but is a rich ivory. A satin heavy, shimmering and wonderfully soft. The embroidered yoke is V-shaped and not deep, but just large enough to afford & place to slip the fullness for the skirt in. ST FORD - Bands of a dark cream lace about a foot wide fall in great ripples and cas- cades over the shoulders. It runs down the front of the skirt and all about the bottom of it. The lace in turn is edged with chiffon and with narrow pleces of beaver. The ivory and the golden brown blend beautifully and the combinations make of the wrap an exquisite thing. Such a creation is ditficult to sell, and for more reasons than one. Letting the price alone, and that usually takes a pocket-book well filled and held wide open, the style is one of those extremes that are made for certain people and made for them exclusively. While ap- parently suitable for the majority it takes a stunning girl in the freshness. of her beauty to grace it. ‘The fullness has 2 tendency to enlarge the figure and the peculiar shade makes. one look dull and leathery. [ Such distinctive conceits turned from the hands of the Paris modistes have in a way revived feminine fripperies and ways. They have brought in powder- ruffs and Louls Quinze slippers, not to mention all sorts of furbelows, flounces and frills. The mannish summer girl has discov- ered that going out in the sun without 2 hat merely fades her hair and makes it brittle; that her brown arms, thin and muscular, are an eyesore and that her cnfizplexlon logks better if she wears a velil. ‘When she discovered all this the shops felt a change, for shirt walsts which ‘were plain and severe now have blouses and thin hemstitched bands for soft rib- bons. While it is but a little change it removes them from the male lists. If you would be right up to snuff or go it one better, gown yourself after the fashion of a French fashion-plate. Wear everything light in weight and in color, ‘white if possible; wear immense hats and the highest heels in the town, and by that time you will have become accus- tomed to no end of flourishes and the cloaks will please you mightily, otherwise they will appear too fluffy and too much overdone. EASY LESSONS TN WHIST. By Mrs. E. P. Schell, MONG the many unsettled ques- tlons there is probably none which has given rise to so much dispute as the advisabllity of lead- ing trumps from five originally. Many of the more modern writers advo- cate it, and much has been written for and against it. I will quote some rules advocated by the best judges. As to the correct management of trumps, it is by far the most difficult thing in whist strat- egy; very few players ever become very EMFORTTIAL proficient in this regard. It is nearly al- ways right to lead trumps when the trump suit {s your onmly long suit, be- cause if you are weak in all plain suits 1t is only falr to presume that your part- ner s so much more likely to be streng ir. them. Suppose you hold any five trumps, three small in twe suits and two small in the third suit, you should as a rule lead trumps,.ne matter what they are; any other lead will decetve your partner, and, hesides, you eannot put your trumps te better use. Your chances for making any of your small trumps by ruffing are very slight; you must follow 16 three rounds in two of the plain ruits, and you can hardly expect to find partner short in the samc, sult that you are shert in. Siyeh hands, however, may te classified as exceptional. If you hold five moderate trumps you shguld not lead them first of all unless you have strength in at least tgo suits, or in one with guards in the others against the possible early establishment of them by the enemy. Holding five fair trumps and one good suit and small in the other sults. it is génerally best to open the plain suit. If you lead trumps first, from a hand as ¢ited, before you have ir a. measure established iyour suit, you are likely to-play the oppoment's game. An attempt to bring in a long suit with only a moderate.proportion of high cards, and holding énly five falr trumps and no re-entry cards in the other suits, falls cftener than It sugteedsii It Is almost sure to fail if!you lead trumps before ef- fecting, at least in parf, the establish- ment of your long suit, and this is espe- clally true ff you do net Bave cards of re-entry in the otheér suifa. ‘With greater strength in trumps—eix or more—you sheuld lead trumps, foryou are #o strong that you are almost certain to be left with two long trumps, and you can eentrol the game. Next week I will write of the trump lead with four or less. A trophy deal in whi¢h theré is a gain of three tricks due entirely to opening high from king, queen,-fen and another trump: () Tks. N. B 8. w. 1. *Qe 100 2 To 2. Kh *Ah 5 3n 4. %h 24 6d *10d s 7 8d 4a Ad 5. *Qh 2h 6h 3d 6. *10h 8 h 5d 1. 4e 6e 9o *Jo 8. 3s % b8 *Ks 9. 4s *As [ 23 10. % Kd *Ih Ja 1. Ko *h 50 108 12. % 9d 30 *Qd 8. Ac Js [ Qs North and South §, Past and West 8. Trick 1—South is debarred from leading the top of the suit because his team. uses ) the Irregular card call through an Bonor. East commences an “attachment” to in- dicate upon its completion no more of the suit. Trick 2—North's trump lead is decidedly risky. He has absolutely nothing but the established suit, and his partners lead woyld indicate very little on his side. Hoever, if he is to lead trumps, why the|king? His only chance of two imme- diafe rounds lies in leading low and find- ing|partner with jack or nine. Trick 3—In. the modifled system, the lead of 8, 7, 8 or § indicates a strong suit, but not both. trump strength and another re-entry card, Trick 6—Weat's retention of the clud jack looks like an Inspiration, but he probably reckoned upon rorcing his part- ner with it. On the other hand he may have held on to it with malice afore- thought, for his own hand together with the information derived from his partner's lead would inform him that the adver- saries had nothing bur, clubs, and the actual situation may have occurred to him as a possibility. If so, it was a very pretty instance of close whist reasoning, and he ran no risk in acting upon it. Trick 7—North takes {00 great a chance in the effort to put his partner in to draw the last trump. He ought to have sus- pected West of holding up a club. South showed four, and East with three would net have played the ten. The better plan would have been at trick 6 instead of leading the trump to have taken a round A | of clubs and then forced. ' From North's point of view at that stage the prospect looked fajr for making the trumps sepa- rately. As a matter of fact they would have done go, giving North and South two tricks more than they made on the deal TABLE NO. 2 Trk. N. B w. [ ] 1L 1a 24 6d *104 2 48 *As [ Ks 3s *Js ss 23 *Qo e 2e 7o 4 2n *Jh 3h Qh *AN 5h 3h s 9 5s *108 *Ke 6o 3o Jo *6h %h sh 5d *Kh sh h Qd *Ac sda 8o Ja *Sc 9d Bo Qs % Kd a Ad North and South 8, Fast and West 5. Trick 1—South opens the . short suit, which at least looks more harmless than either of the others, but the led of the 6 does not appear o be consistent with the meaning of that card in the “modi- fled system.” Trick 2—If West had played the support- Ing club at this point the lead would huve taken a peculiar turn. The remark is made merely as a suggestion to any reader who may care to try a variation. Trick 3—As the North and South team did not vse the trump signal, North cards to this and the preceding trick look like seme kind of false “attachment.” It seems to have scared East off a continuae tion of the spades. Trick 4—The club lead here is mpon} ble for the loss of a trick; the diamond 8 would appear to be the next best thing to a continuation of the spade.