The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 14, 1902, Page 10

10 In Spite of Miss Dolly Var- den’s Wishes, the New Skirt 'Will Be Trained and Will Lie Upon the Ground Front and Back—Even the Yachting Gowns Are Long and Trail- ing. O, o+ cutting board and he scissors! are to be a great deal ever and you must r Instead of i and you nce on your g enough. tremely numerous as difficult to walk will require practice s are peculiar- egard, for they tle in the back n length. The court there is & close ap- can be man- high heels d in them. But tended with a the woman of worn- gowns ed in Paris and London, dress with deep flounces nd with each flounce bor- chings of mous- at the head of 2 curves as a gown dark color, some- It is lined with the foot is flounced h coral red. Ma- e colors, blue and pretty littie ruffies »f box plaitin of white s a wide autumn hat in wire wh taffeta and trimm flowers and blue with a dash famous &s & sea- to the long skirt y serge elaborate- tudying the colors of the gowns worn r in all cases the as the months violet was worn in and dull greens and now come out. This one of the features many flounce is entirely n & much more graceful her clothes, from season woman necessarily be- maker, and, when r of adding a ne skirt longer, r needles than a the ap- ble woman, as back, measuring i t of heigh e the long ght back, One 1is bewfldered, positly t Dame F: . world than out s domain, and better o her com s. and sees of dress good: e line, for exturs pretly and are e of being thin are made with body, and of goods 3 though have different names. A v made for Mrs. W. K. Van- s of black etamine showin mmings of red. the fashionable world e to abandon its sea- both sides of the water the event. Black and e colors of the late sum- taken a great im- r taste. 1 outlines gowns remain imings are undergoing he skirts are affecte THE SUNDAY CALL THIS GowN CAN BE WORN FOR DINNERS OR FOR EVEMNINGS . . —rd L By Augusta Prescott. = by them. though skirts are usually the last to change. The straight back effect !s one for which all are striving, and to obtain it tr.m- mings a.e worn upon the front, but not upon the back. The severe unbroken line, coming from the beit right out to the end of the traln is called the season’s line of beauty, an you must seek it if you would have your new gown a decided success. The princess skirt is much worn, but is unfortunately not becoming at all. This BKirt, as you know, is the one that, in- stead of being beited in the orthodox e. has no belt at all, but is continued upward and bustward and is stopped abruptly just about at the bust line, per- haps a little below. 1t is all very well to look at a slender woman in a princess, but It is the jug- gernaut of the fat woman, absolutely de- stroying every line of grace. If the fat woman wants to be a prin- cess, so far as the cut of her gown is con- cerned, let her do the same thing in a Gifferent way. Let her get the princess effect as one of the stout leaders of Chi- cago gets it This woman, whose gowns are the most elegant seen at the horse show every au- tumn, s sald to employ an artist whose special work is to get up designs for fat women. Of course he calls it embonpoint, and it is 10 be presumed that he declares it an idy'c figure to her, at least. Just now 'he 18 making his patroness a princess gown in two pleces, the SKirt, Which 18 a lustrous etamine, being cut Wwith a sweeping train. The walst or the bodice, as it must be cailed In this case, is as tignt as can be managed. It ab- Eolutely molds and outlines the figure, The front s straight and the bodice, which is a litt.e longer than the belt line, is pointed. ‘It hooks upon the skirt and there is a belt just one inch wide of black panne, crushed and lad around the lower edge of the bodice, just where it ends. 18 brown to be the color of fail, or will it be green? Just as you have settled Upon one or the other you see sumac un- furled before you and a swell gown made of sumac colored etamine over a deep red foundation {s shown you. Of etamine as a fall goods one might say a great deal, for the new etamine is very briillant and almost satiny in luster, and noveities are promised. in this line. The ‘autumn hat will have a made tendency. It will be constructed of cloth or silk or will have its crown, at least, covered with a piece of the dress ma- terfal. The straw hat has partially dis- appeared under its weight of flowers and lace and under its covering of siik and feathers, and the felt hat bids fair to fol- low suit. In the autumn you will hardly Bee a hat of felt, for the prevalling style Wwill be a ‘“made” hat, covered with vel- vet, or with silk, or in some manner cov- ered with dress goods. The exception to this will be tae white felt hat, which will be made up in the sailor styles, square crowned and worn with uprolling sides. The fancy for making hats, like gowns, 80 that they can be worn every month in the vear {s one that is borrowed from England, but once having tried it, you will become an Anglomaniac to this ex- tent, at least. Your hats will be good every month in the year. The advantage of this fashion can be seen without dis- nd thes Rt T o ES All Sail the Blue Sea in Very Long Blue and Green Gowns — Sea Blus and Sea ! ‘Green the Colors for Autumn Traveling—Don’t Negleot to | Get the Color Combinations if ] You Would Look Very Smart. cussion, for to have a dozen hats that c be put on winter or summer gives one a wide range of choice. The white felt hat, trimmed with feath- ers or with or with & Roman scart, is one o the little jetted toque is a wiage hat of velvet and ostrich plumes is a third, and the hat that is rnate straw chiffor, a fc is another of thesa ali-the-year iats. None ef these will go out of vogue and in the new fau hats many pretty varieties of these styie are promi The tendency toward the picture styles s and such fashion leaders as Mrs, tney, Mrs. John D. Rockefeller dwin Gould are gqing in . for them, A lovely style, worn not long age by Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson, showed empire mode co: the form of a d cloth, with the round neck outlined wita & wide lace coliar, A dog collar of pears et off the neck. *ine phirt was cenventional though it had the long, pain sweep 6 empire, but it had s wide flounce headed and draped with lace, A wide allver girdle contined the walst, In the streets the pioture vogues run mcre teward the 130 styles, which are yeiher long and very much trimmed, T'here is no chanee te return te the hoop, Dut the skifts are certainly very profuse- ly decorated, and ene thinks ef the bouf- jant styles, for y are full a the trimming shows a tendency to rise up- ward toward the walst line; It is not alto- gether confined to the flounce, as it ence was, The leng gfill wl:l sweeping talls, the wide lace cellar and outstanding re: the flaring deep cufts, With the pamed leeve below them, all these things loek ike the pictures iR the picture book, yet they are made ceaventional by the ap- lication of modern dressmaking methods 0 them. The Vliennese pedestrian skirt ia a new tlLing, 1t grazes the ground and it Is trimmed with strapped banda of silk; the waist 13 a silk shirt and the cost i» a three-quarter k coat. Silk ki be- come such a ytilitarian materig) m:f 7ou can eombine it with serge and still pre~ The old sl Poczyois s ks are at some disadvantage ue uew Decause they have them, The ery of allk is a prized these days, Per- ustle, but by what- goes it must be distinctly lady with her soft crumplie © frou-frou of silks must 1y heard even before she ia acry. aro with vou this ‘ery” 1s one of the things which marks no ‘“ery” thing very kaps you call ever name heard. M a skeln of silk in your hand t your ear you will une derstand what 0. ¥ the silk nalse. Loe sa w 2 I Teak sound, *h King Louls XI who t was Louis XIV to know all about these tol e shows off Y Pl moos nnes will ever has gone out & i ! seco to lencte: lae 'ess which n rer been abie to us: ber that you n with a fortune in your ¥s when Mrs. Potter Palmer pald hundreds of dollars alyard for lace no wider 4 are past. You can get th now, or lace which looks exactly and very many w T t buy better are paying $5 a yard for lace instead of $50 and $10 instead of $100. -