The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 27, 1902, Page 7

CEMENT COLCRED PEDESTRIAN SKIRT, WITH WAIST OF STRIPED CH 4 It is Packed With Embroid- ered Gingham Waists, With Tender Sweet Pea Designs Meandering Over Them, and With Lawn Gowns Finished With the New French Ruffies. The Beautiful White Dresses in Mrs. Roosevelt’s Summer [ Trousseau — Mrs. George Gould’s Touch of Black—The | Latest Wrinkle of Dame Fash- | ion—Great Vogue of the | Check. | - -+ BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. fashion this summer to take ation when you can’get it! g moment often arrives v and ygp must pack and wom E nge as you may de find all your carefully E at a minute’s notice ge for your s ¢ and the h d to its ce took her days now has thought, and to < go a great deal e re are people Wwho 3 £ trunks. But these way when you thing within Into the Summer Trunk. ke not one t nge them classified accord- and even- outing suits in a third rie. i extra trunk or two t of a very little expense, and e and convenient to many &s your wardrobe of the summer girl's trunks go ti year a great assort- dresses. Linen has ar- ignity of a very elegant . t treated in such a va- sf ways as would astonish the uni- inen_shirts, of the neglige 2 and $4, and women’s nice s cost twice as much and there 1s a spent. The sweet- the week is the sweet-pea sich is put on with the fair the wearer thereof. The peas e soft pinkish colors and are her he THE SUNDAY Another feature of the week is the walst of gingham, embroidered with forget-me- nots Checks will be worn in every ma- and embroidered blue and green 1 waists are the latest cry. The summer girl's neck ruffles are a se- rious study to her. The latest ruffle shows a mixture of emerald mousseline and black. The two colors it together 1 e loop falling over the oth- er. are alike and are finished with double loop! with long green row Something very long and fastened very nar- tin" ribbons, new in the n_a Newport piazza kind of a neck nite chiffon, with great green upon it, each dot as large as The ruffie was made in the and the big loops had on them. tirely velvet dot: a half-dolla looped their t s which must be a long, Tound roll of $oft crinoline, and cover it with white ribbon. Let the roll be big around a your wrist, and cover it with ribbon put on loosel ow take your material, be silk muslin or chi =ilk, and begin at on . the material dation. which may on or even china around the inches higher v as to make a t tie. nches higher up make another the muslin and tie again, and keep ng this until you have gone all the gth of your foundation. You can the ends with a little bunch of feathers or with ribbon loops.” Mrs. Roosevelt’s Gowns. Theodore Roosevelt, whose white are the loveliest ever seen in Mrs dresses Washington, wears one that is made en- tirely of insertion as to the skirt, a band of lawn and a band of insertion. Around the foot there is a very deep flounce, narrow in front and wide in the back. This is long and m a sweep, giving the skirt a demi- in. Another one of Mrs. Roosevelt's white gowns is made similarly, but at the very foot there is a ruffie of pink lawn set in under the one of white la This gives pretty pink swish around the foot. The dress is worn with a pink taffeta belt and chou, and with a stock edged with pink. Mrs. Roosevelt has several very pretty summer coats in black silk, They are not . ambitious coats, for the President’s wife dresses modestly, but they are very taste- ful. One is a black taffeta with the double box plait at the shoulders and a double box plait in front. The coat is no longer than the belt line and in the front is fin- ished with very long stoles. Another coat is in black satin, eton length, with' tie lower edge cut in sharp points and bound with white. A white coat belonging to the first lady is cut upon the same lines, rather shorter n an eton, for it dieplays the belt line. it is straight across the back, while the front has two plaits, one each side of the middle of the front. Down the center there is & band of Irish lace with long tabs of white taffeta, trimmed with lace. A very French finish is that which calls for a foot flare of another color. This v/ill be noticed upon the fall gowns, and it is a feature which can be introduced in the late summer dresses. The foot flare is managed in one of two ways. Either it is done by means of a ruffie which is set under the flounce, mak- ing two flounces, or it is done by an edg- ing of a contrasting color. A handsome dress in pearl gray muslin was combined with blue in an odd man- ner. The waist was cut as a shirtwaist. . all in the pearl muslin.- Just at_the of this yoke ruffle there was a bor- der of blue muslin, put on as a narrow plaiting. Around tle foot there was a flounce, and this was also ‘trimmed with a narrow plaiting of blue muslin, Ruffles are bound with contrasting col- ors and are used for skirt and waist trim- mings. Summer Bathing Suits. In the summer girl's' trunk there must be a bathing suit. She will go near the water before she arrives home, and not to have a suit is inconvenient and unneces- gary In the light of the cheapness of the suits of the day. The bathing girl this year will dress In two colors. All her suits are built in con- trasts and are in brown and white or blue and white, or in dark red and cream. You will scarcely see ope that is built of a single tone, except the all black suits. Very frequently the -sallor collar and sash are In one color and the suit in an- other. A very striking sult was in black duck, trimmed with gold washed buttons. A beautiful and wearable suit was made of blue mohair, with white taffeta trim- mings. . robably be- The sallor style prevails, cause it is the most universally becomin; one that is known, and it is the style tha: marks all the suits that have been sent over from Paris as ideal bathing tumes. The silk sults, while very pictorial, are not so much in the utility line, - Silk, and china silk at that, when wet, is not a comfortable thing, and it 18 certainly not a dressy one. To say that it hugs the figure 15 to speak very kindly of it, for, truth to tell, you cannot walk in it at all, 50 eel-like does it become in its clinging properties. . The best suits are wash poplin, brilllan- tine, light serge, wash wool, flannel and mohai They also make a pongee bath- ing suit that is warranted not to shrink cos- with a deep ruffle bordering the in water. Handsome suits are in navy blue flan- nel, with smooth " finish. They .are trim- med with bands of cream flannel and they are worn with a wide sailor collar and a sash. There i{s no chemisette in them, unless the bathing girl wants it. Wrinkles in Sea Suits. Skirts are worn decidedly short, and the knickers do not show. There are suits with the knickers to a point below the knees and skirts above. These have a very Frenchy look and are not becoming to any but youthful and slender figures. The little Japanese pagoda hat, with wash silk streamers, is worn for bathing, and the white Panama, trimmed with sea grass, A handsome bathing sult, one that was meant as much for the sand as for the sea, was in robin’s egg blue flannel, with sash and sailor collar of green, the fash- fonable combination. A Yale blue serge was trimmed with cream serge, and a suit that was in cadet blue brilliantine dis- played a zlg-zag trimming In cream serge around the foot and a very plain blouse. ‘When the summer girl does make up her mind to wear a guit of all one color, as in the case of a very smart Narragan- sett maiden, she selects black as her color, and makes it lively by green garters and a green bathing Hat. Flashy bathing suits have not made their appearance this summer, and good taste characterizes the seashore girl in all her moods and modes. Sharp contrasts do_prevall, but these are managed in a ladylike way and without a violation of good taste. The matter of the gay garter is man- aged in various ways. Bathing stockings with garters worked upon them, to look like ribbons, with a bow knot upon the front, are seen, and there are bathing stockings with sandals embroidered upon them. The embroidered stocking s seen upon the beach every day, and the bathing stocking, In its present guise, is one of the finest and prettiest pieces of hosiery to be found in any walk of life. The New Tuckings. Tucks are appearing in every possible form. The pin tuck, which has had such a vogue, is not forgotten by any means and in certaln ways it is seen even more than . before. Pin tucks are now used in little groups or clusters and are made to form = patterns. Groups of tucks, in bunches of three tucks, then a group of five tucks, then one of seven tucks, and so on until the gr‘lax}zs are very large are upon many skirts. e veny delightful skirt to look upon was in green lawn with pin tucks located an inch apart, They ran the full length of the skirt, but around the foot there was a deep flounce of white lawn trimmed with a white insertion. The blouse waist was open in front to show a white lawn skirt, and there turned back broad lapels of white lawn, each side of the front fin- ished with scallops of white lace. A PALE GREEN "TUCKED SKIRT WITH WHITE INSERTION AND GREEN HAT The green lawn sleeves were short, but there was a big white lawn cuff below. Black gloves are the French finish of S0 many summer gowns and the gloves are of suede, very snug and neat. They give the hand a very nice look. Black makes the hand look small, and with the light summer gowns there is a refinement about the glove of dainty blagk suede that makes it very popular. Flat hats grow in favor. They are very flat and very large around and decidedly upon the pancake order. They are called by many names, one of them being the pagoda, another the canoe and another the Yeddo hat. You will recognize the shape by Its absolute flatness and by the trimming, which Is also laid on flat, so that the hat looks a little like a palm leaf fun laid upon the top of the head and trimmed with black velvet. At the-back lack velvet streamers hang down. The Touch of Black. The fashion of finishing everything with a touch of black velvet grows because of its chicness. Around the necks of the handsomest of new stocks there is tried a narrow band of black velvet, no more A WATER SUIT IN OARK RED AND A BATHING SuUlT IN BLACK SERGE—. an an eighth of an inch wide, with the eatest of little bows coming at the back of the neck. The finger of black 18 upon all gowns and unless you can find a place for this touch -of ebony your dress will have a dowdy look—so the modistes say. These clever workers are taking black velvet ribbon and tying it across the front of the waist with a strap and a little bow of velvet. And they are putting velvet bows at the belt, in any way to show the touch of black, On a gown made for a leader of the fashions there seemed to be no place for the touch of black. Looking at the gown the modiste sal ‘“Let me line the gib- bons with black.’ So, taking the bows which were in pastel pink satin, she lined them with black velvet and ‘the effect was really the making of the dress. Mrs. George Gould, with a wealth of ar- tistic experience upon which to draw, has a fancy for black and few of her gowns but show a little of it. One of them is very remarkable in having flofgces of black chiffon everywhere, at the Rock, at the beit and upon the skirt. They were smail and were used as cdgings. The color of the gown was the rich corn col- or with which black goods In the summer girl's trun great deal that is very han taking stock of its contents, spe= clally notes the amount of handwork that is to be seen, and so one must really a sert that woman—sweet woman— gardless of censequences, for she heaps up trouble for herself without realizing it; and when autumn comes she will find herself bound down to long weeks _of drudgery with needie and thread, for her -autumn: gowns will only emphasize the handwork styles of ‘the summer,