The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 6, 1902, Page 15

Rppropriate For A1 oggasions. ripple, the they 1 € ks m a heavy » tabric s & g € AL it e is who is cut with a voke point- € v it hangs T wit that are ¥ lack velvet bunds &ap- heavy silk passementerie. e finishes the bottom of the s gives it the fullness at the is sought for in all the skirts T nce and the yoke as lined with the appliqued e fic ing collar 1s 0dd nowadays, cloak has one, nevertheless, in deflance of the season’s unwritten It 1s as much as to say, “You never can find any collar half as becom- ing e L enyway.” DAY e bmd i = (0025, o i CALL. A long taffeta cloak has e ulster back, seamed and fitted, and a loose front, which makes a combination that is becoming to al figures. Taffeta is on its last legs now, but there is still some demand for it, and it is to be found in the newest cuts. Women have become convinced that no taffeta wears well, whether it be of a cheap or a high-priced quality, The ghances are in fayor of tha g e 0 o cheap grade, and they are In the process of giving it up. The sleeve of the season, tight above and flaring below, is to be seen in this cloak, as in nearly all others. It is the prevalling style, because. it adapts itself to the sleeves of the gowns, which are puffed and furbelowed at the hand. The revers of this ulster have a smart facing of white eatin stitched into checks o sE with black. They spread back broadly toward the shoulders. The flounce is a feature of this cloak, too. It appears on nearly all of the new- est ones. It is curved in different out- lines, but it is always imperative that there be a dip toward the front. This must be for the sake of the poster outline. A black moire ulster has a stunning white satin collar, a square sallor collar, LOFHS Fm GOZDET GfiTrorr ZLoarr & Sy TErE XL IR cLoRH FIXo. BEF LI that s elaborately trimmed with black velvet ribbon and black passementerie. The collar runs into revers at the front. A broad band of stitching finishes the up- per part of the coat where it joins the flounce. ‘ A peau de sole garment, almost identi- cal in cut, has collars and revers of black. The contrast—a contrast of black and white Is almost de rigucur now—is formed _ follow the rolled-over edge. by three tiny b¥nds of white ribbon that The collar in this case rounds off In the back and does not fall so deeply over the shoulders. The Jackets are of as many styles as the tastes of women. They are all lengths and tightnesses. There is the box coat and the belted blouse and the Norfolk and the Eton are not yet dead. A coquettish little Eton of moire is short in the back and dips in the front, showing the two finishing tabs that are a heritage from last Its sleeves fit with some snugness and for that reason it has not the versatility of the bigger-sleeved wraps. It cannot be worn over all gowns. But to use with sim- ple shirt waists it is a most convenient little affair. It has a turn-over collar of the moire and white satin revers trimmed with bands of black velvet ribbon. Some of the jackets are belted closely and show a short peplum below the belt. One of these, a peau de sole, has a big square saflor collar that fs as deep as a yoke in the back. Three big ornaments of passementerie show smartly on the white moire of the collar. A white facing of the peplum can be seen in glimpses where it is pleated In the back. far season. IS A half-length of peau de sole I» loosely fitted in the back and falls open without any attempt at fitting in the front. Its revers are like those of the Eton, white, trimmed with rows of black ribbon. : The taffeta box coat is unique in its lack of white trimming. It looks best worn open over a white walst, to give It the relief of contast. Its only trimming is rows upon rows of stitching which have the advantage of being stylish and the disadvantage of being a trap for dust. There has been no use in stating in all these descriptions that the ocoats are all are. It 1s the rarest thing in the worid to find a sflk coat that is of any other color. Black trimmed with white—white revers or a lace collar—is the universal style of the year. And black holds favor year In and year out for its style and convenience. It goes well with any color, and this is an especially im~ portant point in chesing the color of a cloak. So the black silk cloaks are with us and they may have come for a pretty long stay. They look permanent. They will hardly be warm enough for the most se- vere winter weather, but they are likely to be revived next spring—that is, if the makers of fashion permit. For the makers of fashions look to the filling of their purses, and it is more In pocket to them to have us change our costumes frequently. But we may as well hope for the best. coat - Qooling Dishes for Warm Weather. ARM weather having returned, one of the most perplexing questions arising in the mind of many a good housewife i3 how she may succeed in mak- ing her table as dainty and Inviting as possible. During the heated term many persons are more or less troubled withloss of appetite, and yet the cure may be eas- {ly effected when a dainty dish is unex- pectedly presented. Some of the following recip.s may help the troubled ones out of their difficulties; but that- success may be attained one point is quite essentlal—that the ingre- dients are always carefully measured. The following brief explanations will be found useful: By a cupful is salways meant the half-pint measuring cup. Eight rounding tablespoonfuls are equivalent to a cupful. There are three teaspoonfuls in a tablespoonful, and there are four saltspoonfuls in a teaspoonful. A speck 1s one-thirty-second of a teaspoonful, or is as much as can be measured on the point of a penknife. Flavorings and seasonings are always measured level, while all other measure- ments are rotinding, that is, just as high above the spoon as the spoon is deep. Nowadays the desire for meat is nat- urally less, owing to the warm weather and the exorbitant prices, yet soups are always necessary for some tables. Soups made without stock, such as cream soups, are considered less heating. These are much more deliclous when made of fresh vegetables, rather than canned. Peas, asparagus, tomatoes, etc., all give deli- cate flavors. Salads are also cooling, palatable and wholesome during the summer, and these are within the reach of all. Strawberry Shortcake—In making a sweet cake use two tablespoonfuls of but- ter, one cup of sugar, three eggs, half a saltspoonful of salt, two and one-half cupfuls of flour, one (generous) cupful of milk and two teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der. Cream the butter and add the sugar; beat thoroughly, then add the well beaten eggs and beat again. Sift the flour and baking powder together three times; add this, alternately with the milk, to the but- ter, sugar and eggs. Give the mixture a final beating and divide it in three shal- low cake pans. Bake about fifteen min- utes in a good oven. Wash and hull three pints of strawber- ries; cover them well with sugar and let them stand for an hour or more. When the cake is done lay It wrong side up to cool slightly, Put one-third of the ber- ries between each of the three layers of the cake, adding some of the juice. Cover the top layer with a meringue, garnish with some of the berries, or merely sprin- kle the top with powdered sugar. This may be served with or without whipped cream. Strawberry Shortcake, with Biscult Crust—One quart of flour, one teaspoon- ful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of butter, two gen- erous teaspoonfuls of baking powder and about one pint of milk. Wash and hull two quarts of straw- berries; mash them slightly and sweeten to taste. Sift the flour, then add sugar, salt and baking powder; rub in the but- ter and add sufficient milk to make a soft dough; mix quickly and handle as little as possible. Flour the board and roll out half an inch| thick; divide in two equal parts, placing one-half of this in a biscuit pan. Sprinkle with flour and ture on top. Bake about fifteen minutes then place the s d layer of the mix- in a quick oven. en cooked separate the layers and sppead generously with butter, then with & layer of the swest- ened berries and julce, cover with the second layer of crust and pile the rest of the berries om top. hot. Whipped cream may be served with this. cuy Strawberry S« o of sugar, half a box 6f Eeiatn, 28 of straw= berry julcs, half & pinj water, four eggs. Cover the gelatin with cold water and let it stand for one hour to soften. Pour on the hot water and add th&nin, and stir constan until dissolved; then add the straw uice and strain all into a large b this in & pan of cracked 13 d Jet it until it is well chill d quite thick, stirring oc- cnswnall{. t to & stiff froth and add the well beate esfit O quue: Dens all unt| 0oth; and set 1n”;he ,;'Zfigmioi“’?ér mouu to stiffen. Boflgd custard—One pint of milk, yolks of four eggs, half a saltspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, three tabie- spoonfuls of sugar. Scald the milk, beat the yolks, add the sugar and salt and beat well. Pour tha hot milk slowly on the eggs, and, when well mixed, pour all back into the sauce- pan. Stir constantly till th and thick as cream. Strain, and n 1t i cool add the flavoring. Strawberry sherbet—One quart straw- berries, one pint sugar, ome pint water, juice of one lemon, ons genefous table~ spoonful of gelatin. Cover the gelatin with cold water and let it stand for one hour. Mash the berries through a colander. Let the water come to a boil; add the sugar and gelatin and stir until both are ¢issolved; add the ler.- on juice and strain all ove the crushed berries. When cool, turn into the freezer and freeze the same as ice cream. Haif a pint of cream may be whipped and added just before the sherbet iced down, and If it is used it shoul oroughly stirred up. Little neck clams on the half-shell—Get the clams very fresh and wash them well unopened. Place them on ice for two or three ho@irs, or unti] very cold. Open and arrange them on a of watercress and garnish with lemon, Egg ti es—Seven eggs, two cups of milk, one teaspoonful af salt, quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, two tea- spoonfuls of chop parsiey. half a tea~ spoonful of chopped onion Beat the eggs With a spoon until well mixed; add the salt and pepper and tha onion, chopp fine; next the milk, and see that all the ingredients are wel blended. Chop the parsiey quite fine; but- ter some ti molds and sprinkle well with the chopped parsley; fill about two- thirds full with the egg mixture. Set the molds into a pan of hot water, letting it come three-cuarters of the way to the top of the molds: place, in a moderate oven and steam fi or twenty minutes, till firm in the or until, tried with a knife, it co from the mix- ture. Serve wing: Cream sa lespoonfuls of butter, two f flour, one pint of milk, sonful of salt, eighth of a te white pepper. Heat the milk and add the seasonings. Cream thé butter and flour well together; add this to the hot milk d stir until smooth and cream. sprinkle wit parsiey and turn the timba the” molds into this sauce. Stick a bit of parsley into the top of each and serve at once. Pineapple and celery salad—From & can of pineapple strain off the juice and cut it into small pieces. Wash and scrape an equal amount of celery, cut into pleces the same size as the pineapple. Mix to- gether. hot plat-