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(& THE SUNDAY CALL. ] ow to Huild the . low knot of the lies care, knowledge and all the rest, to e it look well Aiglon is by the natural wave accomplish p, it has twist woich cannot be amateur oughly waved, of the neck and may be attained by to the nape ntion to Details— big soft t, which is aft- e i little and d to tl Ouryes nud Ditn > back of the The re- rect cportions fashioned thou; be- gh v fit to be mode oping knot, careless and grace- ve certainly gon d that the out of s I were Ver: d that no a famous y the lobes upon people whose faces are the center, this 1t for these there is s e of curling the locks in s wn. Per- r lobe of the ears. C ghtly, comb out the oosely, them’ twine if they it and let €i0W ‘ trouble with hair t is not nat- to down her back y curly is that it wi ot twine. Left the curls e out straignt 29\ DVrH il Mt S T 2lre y THe Rase of halr dressing is est curls come on ose of sticking into voman will avail own from two to stant and daily use, mak- ys that they are secured , warranted to stick for- > sens stration i~ each hair, for very loosely, r “rat” under the be photo aw it smail pompadc n each side. ack of the head, very low, tie d ther 1eans to styles equently, ‘ betd t ] wist it )inlu an 8, the . of which shall caress the The Classic Head. Use very long pins, the color Sk 7 Bk N prastical, hair, to seeure it in place, and s Daid S T ML lly stick in the fancy pins. This is the ) SHREISE BERE SERER. true French coiffure up to date and the ed with tinseled bands, which French wave. were arranged r nents upon the The High Head Coiffure. There is a high coiffure that is very be- coming, and it may be stated that coif- fures are either very high or very low. The objiect to show women he simple, low styles »w well a beautifully show off, if it were This is the very high one and it does not its matural contour, Dbelle its name, for it seems toppling fop. Gecorated with humps Ward. It is called the Princess Chimay s and puffs, curls and coiffure, but it is worn by high society worn medium. Upon the crown of the really tied just where the old fashionéd - e gediy Wwomen, conspicuous among whom are head, like a back country woman, as they bang used to end, at the half head. other the hairdresser'’s art. Miss Morton, daughter of Levi P. Mor- say in London, the effect is very middle- The halr Is, now twisted round and e of hair dressing, really, ton; 3 Gerry, daughter of Commodore aged. round, in full hand fashion, as every wo- though. as a mat of fact, call for “-x;;r gvfi:rgggh:flh:fwv}:x:( b?lls bvmu colfl\tzrefi \v{fich is fifi" ong practiced man knows how to twist it, and is knote nove veal Art Temn 1A n y shington, many of the leading Mair dressers, is tcd in a tall y more e e it 13 "1t 1s & youthtul coiffurs, for It 15 tossed bully by combing tha halr oo high uo. Ang pagoda, While it still polnts comparatively easy to dress the hatr high, while the low style needs the aid ef pins ihlgll;tithe( slv.iesi are lgll‘nned fast and the loln s owering. This is the extremely high head dressing, so far forward, #0 far front that it does not that mature one were ve the face on of that 1s that one feels as though it upon the brows. It Is Fesco The very front of the halr, which was reviously parted off, is now waved and rought down so that it is draped across the forehead. The brows are covered by it and the eyebrows, even, are partially concealed. . Finally, the head is finished with pins or other decorations. The Mrs. Patrick Campbell colffure is very popular, For this dress the hair very high and wind it with ribbons. Take a strip of ribbon three yards long and be- gin at the back. Wind it three times around the head with the strands coming an inch apart. Finally tie in a bow ‘knot right at the back. If properly done, there will he one rope of the rib- bon around the knot or coiffure, one just below the knot, while the third will band the forehead. 7 Roses and Ribbons. White ribbon with satin finish is pret- tiest for the head decoration, but pale blue 'and pastel pink are preferred by many as looking less bride-like. Butter- cup yellow is very good upon dark hair, the object being in every case to secure a contrast. But of all the hair decorations there is nothing that equals in popularity the flower, and particularly the rose. The rose, exaggerated size, is in favor this senson, and It appears in all places, in the way 'and out of the way, in season and out of season. The exaggerated roses are those that are either a great deal too large or a great deal toq small. -For the berthas and the flounces the tiny button rose is the best. But for the hair the very large rose is_the one that is worn. The Spanish coiffure shows the hair dressed low with the rose located just below the ear. It is always a bright red rose, and it is fastened deeply in the hair, 'S0 that the hair fairly waves and curls over it. The rose, as worn for hairdressing pur- poses, ‘is not always the natural rose, and she ‘who is wary will select the rose of pamne or of silk, or even of chiffon, or of satln ribbon, for it is much better from many standpoints. The natural rose has faults and ngs. It withers rea. That goes It is rarely of a suffi- unless a very high-priced rose, to be effective. It has a tendency to oren and fall that is most provoking, and it is afflicted with thorns that must be clipped off. So much for the rose that is from nature’s own hand. The Flower Spot. The rose made by man {s the one that is worn and the one that has beauty to recomuwend jt. It is a great, beauciful thing of luster and softness, of del cacy and of scent also, for it is artificially scented. This rose is made of satin ribbons so cunningly that you can scarcely detect the fraud, and it is made of velvet with a chiffon center, tne leaves delicately curled. There is a new rose ma- terial, tulld, doubled and stiffened. This is made into small roses tied together and surrounded by leaves for b..h.ut where! the rose will s a question. Shall it go back %{ the ear or on ashion says that it shall be at either place, bul.ylf low, it must be very low, and if high, it must :;inv:q high. " There is no intermediary A rose worn by Miss Roosevelt was perched so high that it looked like a tiny crown. In Lady Curzon's latest pictures the rose is worn in very lofty fashion. There is a new way of wearing the artificial flower, which is neither high nor low, but which is very becoming. It Is low and just over the ear instead of under it. “The flower must droop so as to cover the ear and set it off, ornament- ing it prettily, and making one side of I e N v . the Miss Leiter style, having been brought into prominence by the beautiful Miss Daisy at a dinner dance given for Miss Roosevelt. The flower should be light in tone and floppy in kind; the prettlest flower for this use is a pink poppy or one in a bril- liant red, in, chiffon or crepe de chine. The Queen’s Coiffure. The Queen Alexandra coiffure is only a week old. It was Inaugurated at Sand- ringham at a family dinner when her Majesty entertained certain of her sis- ters-in-law, for she has grown wonder- fully fdrmal, and finds that they must announce ‘their coming to the Queen of England, whereas they once had the fam. ily privilege of dropping in at any time uron the Princess of ales. At this dinner her Majesty wore her hair with two curls hanging down her neck. The fashion of the dangling curls is a growing one and is much in demand at the coiffurists because so highly recom mended by the hairdresser. It assists a thin neck also and hides defects of throat and contour. It adds grace, too, and is altogether admirable. Years ago the Queen wore her curls, but discarded them when they wers no longer the world’s way; now she has ta- ken to them again, but they hang both on one side close together. In the curls, at the side of the neck, under the ear, there was placed a very large white rose. Roses decked her gown in a corsage bouquet and there were roses at her belt. In these days of matching the gown one would think that every possibility had been exhausted. That the parasol must match is a foregone conclusion with any one who has studied fashions for the past few years. And that the handkerchief, the belt, the stock and all the littles must match {s also certain. But now it is the coiffure that must coincide, and many are the ways and devices by which it is done. A woman of much fashionable preten- slons is wearing a tan-colored gown. Her hair is jet black, but in its coils there are amber hair pins to match her tan- colored gown. Another woman, also of fashion, wears black pins in her blonde hair, large, conspicuous pins of black jet to_match her black gown. Fut there are prettier methods of matching the pins to the gown. Lovely ornaments in turquoise wide pins for pushing into the coiffure can be obtained and side combs that are finished in tur- quoise and in pearls, in garnets and in emeralds. One can really get combs finished in any manner, set along ‘he top with stones of any hue. It is the best of taste to match the gown in this manner—paying it this mark of respect. It is a thing not believable, until one has taken the time to observe it closely, but the gown really takes on an addéd ele- gance if there is an effort made to match it with combs and the littles of dress. T the effect of wearing turquoise and gol Jjewelry with your blue gown. Then put on ornaments that do not match it in any way and bear no relation fo it and ob- serve the wide difference. There are bodices built especialy for the low neck and low coiffure and Sthers that are designed for the high. The bod- ice that is to be worn with the low hang- ing coiffure s generally very plain around the neck and closely finished, without featherS or frills. The fact that the hair is to hang low ufficlent to dress the neck and shoul- without the need of elaborate sleeve is ornaments. Mrs. Harrison’s Gown. A lovely gown for Mrs. Burton Harri- ith a low coiffure, had a gement of chiffon over the A strap of chiffon was trimmed with pearl ornaments and the same strap was brought around the neck and fastened at the front, the pearl or- naments trimming it all the way. At the back it was tied in a bow of chiffon and pearls. Nothing could have been plainer or_more becoming. In many cases the bodice that is to be worn with a low colffure, the evening or dinner bodice, has no sleeves at all, but merely a strap of jeweled velvet, or one of rlilb?ion with tiny mock jewel ornaments applied. A new trimming for the strap sleeve consists of a feather trimming. The very tip ends of feathers, none longer than half an inch, are sewed upon the shoulder strap, which is fastened to keep its shape. The whole is not more than two Inches wide, and the feathers, instead of being aggressive, are persuaded to lis down per- fectly ll’lll§l and flat. Ribbon that can be shirred along each edge by tring woven in it is used for the shoulder strap. The string is pulled up to make a puff of from one to three Inches in width. This forms the sleeve. Still another full dress sleeve, and ome that bears the stamp of novelty, is made of little loops of ribbon. one overlapping the other and the whole covering the strap, which must be very narrow. The loops are made of two-faced ribbon, 8o arranged that the inner side shows slight- ly. just a tint being vistble. Bodice for High Coiffure. The bodice that is designed for the high coiffare is entirely different in every way. Here is the chance for an elaborate struc- ture, the more elaborate the better. At a Washington function, and it must be admitted that Washington is for the first time in recent history the center of soclal gayety, a beautiful belle wore upon one shoulder a rl.rdan bouquet. Gerani- ums, roses, pansies and small hollyhocks were all there in one mass. The other shoulder was dressed with a very large puff of satin. Another young woman wore a bunch of Prince of Wales plumes upon one shoulder, while the other had straps of black velvet. The jeweled strap is constructed in new fashiogy There is one jeweled shoulder decoratign that consis three straps, each one stiffened with T ork of steel. In the steel w rrquolse. A set of shoulder stra for what else can one call these bands that take the place of sleeves for wear?— were of blue sa ned and stiffened. Cover there was a filigree work of ge small dia- monds set in, or perhaps they were tiny rhinestones— tell these days, e quite he other. trimming of fil s worn by Cornwallls West, ounger, a fi ngs_ago. This woman, who has for so long conspicuous in the Queen’s set, is now out in a renewal of her beauty and youth. She is very handsomely dressed wears blue great deal. Blue was wedding colo and white, with red rose: Mrs. West a Gibson Girl. Her gown at a fashic ception was a low cut or e evening re- e in blue moire. The waist was very. Gibsonese. It was low cut, with the i fi d to turn bacis « toward the shoulders. Not a part g marred the plain- ness of the wal The shoulder trimmings were different. Upon one white shoulder there stood a small bunch of white ers. Over ‘the other shoulder there was a gold filigree t e arm. It uppi y_flat u the: hugged it, ik The, under p: upper part b esti utmest co u them match to a ¢ tom of wearing lor, with or the trasting c te: preity on: tore uni- neat and simple. shoulders on adds fing one be recommended 1ess to the arm is the one lace. This is aelightful, er it be In the form of a lace strap, is thrown over the upper part o or in the long lace sieeve, ed from shoulder to thumb. sleeve is made of -open lace, not very fine, and it is shirred outside and inside, to make a thick, soft shirring. ere is no lining, though there is,an up- to-date fad for chiffon underneath. A remarkable natural cave h: discovered in Montaba, about fifty mics east of Butte. A large river with a cat- aract of about 100 feet was explored for a distance of several miles without dis- covering its source or outlet. A few apc ticles. of stome and copper utensils and some human bones were also dise overed in one of the large apartments explored. There were other evidences that at some time in a prehistoric period the cave wag used as a habitation. The present enc trance to the cave was made by some lime quarrymen at a pofnt 1800 feet above the bed of the Jefferson River while en- gaged in blasting rock. The formations of stalactite and other natural decora. tions throughout the cave are Ppronounced the most beautiful and varied ever seem.