The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 30, 1902, Page 16

i - — =5 > =7 She will need forty gowns tor a season at the seaside and she 1 can be & variety of summer girl, the Dolly Varden, the Watteau | | Shepherdess, the Dignified Directoire Dame, the Empire Lady, or | | simply the Fluffy Summer Girl of America—Mrs. Langtry’s new | | gowns in “Mile. Mars”—Mrs. Chamberlain’s dress and the gown | of Lord Rosebery’s daughter—Queen Alexandra’ssimple blue gowns. - — * there in the gotvns during June, July, August and September, and with a little of May and and you some of October thrown in. And so, 2 of the sum- they cost not ver: h she will, at the us will she be. season’s end, pr be well in. Previ There soul so dead ous summers her Paris confectlons have or body o old t ring spark cost her much more of summer gir) e found with- . W ced stages of pers e at the her. Two r into the store on summer le a third glance J determined to comstruct k would place her in t girl in a f simpiicity as well ambitious 3 assert that, s r girl—thé blue canvas skirt and owned with straw wh straw, or sailor pped of f& certain that for certair atil it summ. = 1 The m: C tenses of sum- mer girl 1 is estimated that for a Newport summer than forty fufty summe s are needed. This gives one 2 new gown a day, counting the season as less than two months. To the credit of the coming fluffy sum- mer gown it may stated that it can be reworn in the fall, for it is of a kind that it dificult to distinguish from the conven- tional gown for the house. And it is cer- “tainly chemper than a fine rgception or afternoon gown. The Newport woman can wear her fifty A ‘woman—such an extravagant woman—is making herself a gown el week. She calculates that by the month of June she will have ten or a dozen of the prettiest summer costumes in the world. She is buying the material cheap for a few cents a yard, never paying higher than half a dollar, and she i€ pick- ing up odds and ends of lace and the little bits of foulard, silk muslin In Jouisine cotton she finds a prize, for it makes up like gilk. The flo rs form a self trimming and, with ingenuity an a little plain lawn of the color of the flow- ers, so much can be done in the wav of skirt flouncings, stocks and the ubiquit- ous sash. A Morning Glory Gown. y ng glory gown rivals in pretti- ness its attractive name. It is in apple cen with Jittle pink flowers upen it. The flowers are delicately unobtrusive, as flowers upon a cotton gown should be, and ¥ show a tendency to disappear at the wutlines, not standing out in as muea ! as the vulgar prinds of iwo years ago. The waist Is tight fitting and corded. No, that is not the way to tell it. It hirt waist with fine tucks. It is fi 1 *k and so arranged at the sides ses can be slipped in the lining to the figure. The front is t . so that it can be pulled ou girdle—for there is a «irdl ucking is so fine that for your life you cannet distinguish betw and cords. The sleeves are tucked in this fine manner right to the elbows. Then there is a puff of pale pink silky lawn, just to hold the elbow, and then there is a flat band of heavy lace, so arranged that it sets close to the arm. This makes a short sleeve, as you can :Tlagine. but short sleeves are fashion- e. The girdle is In lace, cut above 4nd below the belt, front and E;’L';‘ and lined with silk and boned and all that But the lining and the bones do not show. And the lace girdle is certainly very pretty. The skirt is as tight as it can be and tucked wi ssibly the finest of tucks, runaing straight down from the waist, to the very shoe tops. Then comes a band of lace above a flounce. The name “‘morning glory” gown is bor- from the flounce, which is very is set upon the skirt, very near . the sudden. flare—the round the hould b not copy so simple to No More Wash Dresses. Cotton gowns supposed to be wash gowns, whether n muslin, lawn, bat cl iot, mercerized ma- terial or challie v idea of a cot- ton gown, its e mrnendation as well as of 4 i fact the 3ut, do > cotton gowns of this s 't intended to be laundercd. Th too elaborately made for that. Th their plan too compli 1 too delicate. One good soap-sudding would ruin them, if applicd with the ald of kr les and a washboard. There died in New York the other day an old woman who made a fat lving washing valuable laces and fine linens for Vanderbilts, Belmonts and other wealthy folk. At the time of her demise she was at work upon a Venetian lace article which cost $6000. For years she cleaned these fine materfals with naphtha and with peculiar washing compounds of her own. Lt would pay give the subje any summer woman to t of laundering her fine gowns careful attention, for the modistes declare that the chief obstacle to the making of pretty summer gowns .is the fact that they r soil easily and must on that account be tubbed. Take such a gown as has just been made for the summer campaign. Its groundwork, or, better to s its ma- terial, is & very pale sun-color all yellow, without dot to help it out. d batiste, even one little satin It is made with clhow sleev tight, a round waist, cut on the walist order, and pls ight skirt sweep length, close widening into lily shape. For the Lily Skirt. When the gown was completed, all y > put on, with each seam sewed finishing touch applied, thexn al workmanship, some Spanish Iace were cut some , and these were applied to make er for the sk Tw of them were set in, one above t er, and stitched on.” In the midd ront the flower design widened came up intat the sh lace great pyramid with the y y belt line, a pyramid of = flowers applied to this sun-colored batiste. The waist was trimmed with two mews of these leaves, one around the waist and one around the yoke or where the yoke would come. The sleeves had a few flow- ers appliqued upon them. Finally, In this process of making a summer gown, came the application of black satin ribbon to the dress. This was put on in rows from the bottom of the skirt up to the waist, the rows four inches apart, so as to stripe the skirt tin ribbon w n under the lace figures, ce lay over them. Probabiy the s done before the lace leaves were apolied. There was a belt and stock of white. Each summer gown this year is a ro- mance, each an Individual dream, wrought out _in wonderful colors .and exe- cuted with the fidelity of a fine art cre- ation. You caiit make one in a day, and vou will do well to get one up in a week, even with the aid of a seamstress. But you can save money on your materials, if you cannct on your time. It is just the season for the making of your own gowns. Go to work, or be willing to pay the price the modistes charge. And it is a fat sum. There are all kinds of girls— , runs the topical song. And this sum- mer the girl will be added to the number. <h girl is one who al- ways wears a sash. All her gowns are built for this ornament, and she is never seen without it. Her reason for wearing it may be one of several. Why She Wears a Sash. The sash girl may wear & sash because it is fashionable. She may wear it because she is flat at the back—hollow backed. She may wear it because it gives ght. She may wear a sash hecause a sash of all things dresses up a gown the most. Perhaps she wears it because the im- ported Paris gowns nearly all display them. Her sash may be a ribbon one and, for this purpose, there come ribbons as deli- cate as millinery ribbons, thin mousseline ribbons and soft figured batiste ones. Per- haps she clings to the liberty and the panne ribbons or is decorative enough to want the big flowered affairs that come a foot wide and sell very high. The made sesh of the dress material is a thing that is seen upon the imported gowns. Its design is very simple. In the front it is tucked and there are bones to shape it and give the long point. At the sides It is rolled into a soft band, while at the back it is tied in a tiny bow with two standing loops. but very long ends. This, though a French sash, is called the Princess, for the reason prob- ably that it is worn so much with the Princess gowns, which are so very try- ing without the sash, belt or waist trim- ming of some sort. The Dutch sash, so called, is a queer arrangement in ribbon, with little wind- mill bows at‘the back of the belt. A foot lower the ribbon is tled in another little bunch of loops. Below this the ends hang and there are bunches of loops near the end of each. So difficult are these sashes to tie that they are, for the most part, made befors they are put on and fastened with a hook and eye under the bow at the back of the belt. That is really the best way to manage. The All-White Gown. The all-white gowns are too delicately lanned and too beautifully charming for Flgh[ consideration. They are bullt of the thinnest material. India lawn is a favorite; linen batiste is another. Fine linen comes this year of just the right stiffness for handsome gowns, and there are so very many of the sheer linens with mercerized sur- faces. They are silky and expensive, but you really, if you have soclal ambitions, must possess one at least, for it will be the accepted gown of summer for very nice occasions. A woman who dresses a great deal has planned a white India gown for a June wedding. As a guest she will be gowned in this dress made over a glazed.“vhite lining. Beautiful lace insertion will trim the skirt little below the knees, two rows of it going arou the skirt. Below this there will ccme more of the insertion, put on in the Van Dyck order, all points, top ard bottom. to make a pointed lace trimmed flounce, which in the back Is quite deep. Befween .the lace points tucked lawn wiil be set in. Finally there wiil be a delicate lace ruffie three inches wide around the foot. Could anything prettier be imagined than this white India lien gown, crisp, sheer and of a silvery whiteness? e waist is quite a poem in the shape 1 a bloused sailor waist, with deep sailor collar and baggy front, caught with nar- row white satin ribbons. The sleeves are to the elbow with their frill of lace, And,.lest the fingers of the dressmaker grow idle, there are insertions of lace, only an inch wide, set in rows around the sailor collar and upon the blouse walst and in the sleeves row after row. The Wedding Guest. ‘With the white gown it is to be a sum- mer fancy that parasol and hat must likely be a flowered silk, has Its rosette of ribbon to match the flowers in the siik upon the handle. A white hat, proc fusely trimmed with flowers that match the brocaded flowers in the parasol, com- pletes the toilet. A bunch of flowers of the same color may be carried by the one who is esthetically minded, who has a wedding ahead of her. It is often as trying to be a guest as to be the bride. i.ae bride has her gown or out and prescribed for her. B guest can go as she pleases. Of gown is not just as she would have sen, for in this there is certai a lack of unde as to the guwus to be worn by say at a hign noon wedding. While the sum gown has fluffy ten- dencies, every effort will be made to_give beight to the summer wom The Prin- cess dre: of pri s»ods, the Princess in satin striped the Princess wash Loulsine, will all be seen; as w aiso the skirt that is cut of stripéd goods, with the stripes running and down. There are also the skirts that twist around the figure and make the woman look very tall, the clinging sheath skir There is a growing tendency -to displa: the ruffled skirt and a few of the very advanced importers are bringing over skirts that are flounced right up to the waist in three-inch-wide flounces, just such skirts as you once saw everywhere. But the American woman is a little afraid of the ruffled skirt and s beggin, to be allowed to cling to her many nre.f, tight-fitting one, with the fullness all around the foot. Still the flounced skirt is on view and it may be that it will be here this fall. Then good-by to hips, good-by to the clinging skirt, good-by to everything we now adore, until ‘,the ruffles disappear again. Sleeves Are Changing. A Paris designer, being asked spring to make up half a dosen gowns for an American patrom, to do so. ‘“Does madame Intend to wear the gowns in the fall?’ asked he. “They are for spring and fall wear, tailor made gowns," replied the customes. “Then, madame, I must decline to Al your order,” replied the designer, “for much as I desire your patronage, I oan- not risk my reputation by making a gown now mal: is to be worn next o n reply to the astonished gaspe patron the French dressmeker b that the styles wers changing “Never,” said he, in his most poil French, “were they more transitory, Any sleeve that I would make for you might be positively Gothic in autumn.” Should this prediction come ‘ere lum(l!'tl.s1 to be remembered, that while important, are not a lar the gown and can be easily cn.n':.i‘" = out injuring the mode. - Any seamstress will, in a few hours, remove 8 sleeve and substitute one to her patroz's ng. The fluffy summer girl can look to sleeves that are close upon the sheus der and to make this closeness more con- spicucus the seam ls 2 little low. e same time the Gibsonian shoulder 18 seen and collars that are very wide glve broadness to the shoulder. the lace collars project a little over the sleeve and there is a consequ uare- ness. - this cle The uppers of the sleeves are tight and made tighter by cording and tucke® aog by bands of ribbon, and every devics that can render them snug. The: stuffed into these flesh-like outlines. But at the elbow the whole scene changes and then comes the fullness that amounts to bagginess In many cases. Mrs. Chamberlain’s Gown. Mrs. Joseph Chamberlain, o quietest of American women nl:x % ::; Alexandra’s court, called upon her es- recently gowned in a black Irish laci trock cut very close to the figure, clinging with every line showing. Her belt was & very wide girdle pf violet datin and her stock matched. Her hat was a wide Drimmed one With violet velvet around , plume.mL ere was a sweeping violet On the same day daughter of Lord Ros: spects to_her soverei, gown with Lady Crews, the ebery, paid her re- clad in a biue a little black’ velvet Eton and light blue hat trimmed with white roses. Both of these costumes were !deal for the summer girl In color and character. Lone don women, who have never been noted ;:éx;"?:-, :’ng“w:II. are coming out this nd all the dress artists i are designing for them. s o Quéer " Alexandra is to £Irl and many gowns are betng mae iy her in the sheer materials. So odd to think of a Queen in a wash dress. Her Majesty is_partial to blue a wears blue and white in much simplicity. Ribbons are ‘:}fm(a' fad ”11 lx;‘ ahnd her summer gowns e trimmed with them. She is to blue sprigged white g with big meks hat like a The faney Fith handsome iquares of panne s and square L Loulsine with a flower in each square ace cut out and applied to shirt waists. The squares are blocks, two inches each way, just little square pieces, and they are put on across the front of the waist of sum- mer gowns, two inches apart. Three or four will go across the bust. Below these two or three are set in and then one to finish the design. A little lace is used to finish each square. The lace can be used as an edging. They are called Greclan squares. shirt waists is growing.