The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 23, 1902, Page 4

4 THE SUNDAY CALL. Mzany Uscful ) Things Milady Qan Mzake During the Quict f ARRIgAIAN EAIAR be placed The nec in the woole there appreciate buy se various The Useful Kind. A set of th ul table decora was mac lenim, cu in oblong shz nd the > in long " able mat~d half a d ar are alway Lave eye limit to read can be car awn work in a su good piece of thel MHUNGER CLOTH FOR 7 wicE PINNER Mexicans do srior ma. The “In makin practice to use borders wh termin: kind is boldly cut in edge of a handsome lin h openings made, square, oblong or and under these there are pieces o trasting n 0ld Fashioned Patchwork. It requires a little careful handling of the needle to do this work well and wor derfully. It s like putting a pate really 0od “sou that ladies who ca prices are rushing of linen and tax sisters to its fullest g == EMBROIDERED CENTER ron TAGLE cLorm i artistic hunger cloths and the time and the woman who sews s of yellow wash SRR throughc the % ole w laid upon a e projecter v take weeks another, a s e to stay , a woful wast of time and wed a cirel mbro derea 1 yroide: > {t more natural o w 1 colos ed little to ms he stems, leaves and even the little Pu shadowy backgrou 1 hare of tional gree embroider: iyt R The ed ce trimmed by At B or plain. ntial e drop of water fhat there shot inz_upo a way for protecting the hand- though Mrs. Lawson of Bos- painted centerplece, and it is by mea ton. > 'table decorat e said to of T ¥c gy be the prettiest in the a cloth trimmed around the of chiffon un The Making of If one uses just the good linen cloth, and to do even this reqdires considerable tor one economical for the Tamily purs polish at can keep a table in a state of cut ciret i smooth g a much lower rate than one can keep a outlay, one needs the doily. Indeed, the to allow being handled. The gl er table cloths: in repair, and as to Dy o ABia aafanket flace NGt Sl v S S t ihe cing them and keeping them up to ard of fashionable requir: sh. It any table, be ed one or one well as a it tak ge! of linen. And here comes the real oppor- s whith s e B Y tunity for handiwork. B oty A o “The luncheon table of Mis f the making of doilies any house- T . P Morgan. caressed by a pink HANO PAINTESD ou that there is positively The Housewife’'s Work. with lace thrown over it. FING ER BOwe i point 12 ihePl® Those who recall the Old Dutch caught by ribbon Fas 3 from the hands of the laun- . "ot New York will tell you that it e o ‘“”m”f 5 fim e ot aw sy was the custom for the housewife to not ers, with sprays of ma 1 wait h the ding but the der each plate to form a mat, elicit = e Tuve r own table me 3 n little Saturday morning a lifficult to state j could admiration and mental applause. Bu be e loyec works of a Low is it practical for the every-day wo- be: employed Servant would bring in @ pan of soft wa- man with a small purse? pe with white soap; and an- A clever girl who desires to give lunch- . clear wate a third s purchased some pink wash muslin. Slven Yhay Tk s water. - juite sheer, and sewing it together made o e Tl Ao her dining table, - e a soread or cloth. Over this she ar- e ! hi leeves pr o 1anged a lace tablecloth of her own man- Thar ARErar are. (he liike: sats oilies elbow, the thrifty dame woul The Hungear Cloth. ufacture. This was in strips of linen with Then, there are the large, square doilies and it these out her tabl aces and hand t pan to pa Finally, she pa to a _mald to be f and dried in tt could do the work as well lace insertion sewed around the edge. There were two strips of the lace, one coming under the plates. In the middle was 2 square of lace. 7The lace, by tr - way, was one of the heavy novelty va- the wnole must be done Dy SqUeeZing In- pays one Ior the trouble. The making of of squares of wash silk in_ pink, alter- to lle under each cov ilies which are the most table set with es and _with not with the matter of a rac r piece that t the ch place is a charming sight fashion aoe: ot say th 5 1 the d at one tin rieties, warranted to wash well. stead of rubbing. When stains will posi- it takes a whole winter, and resembles in* nated with squares of lace. The lace must df"h“{)l‘;‘]‘;{{" =n(};ht l‘h‘l}etlmfi y y popular. but Bow Fads in Table Laces. tively not come out the entire cloth is elowness the patchwork quilts of sacred come in little patterns without raw edges, 0 ae 2 TR race, be it cups or linen; and in these ! o K o 3 A dyed a light blue in some patent dye, or memory, but when done one has not only and the silk must be hemmed to keep it O e O race, p g n s R g R Rioth o e e i De Stated that it is is given a rich butter color in any adver- an effective tablecloth, but a very dura- free from fraying. This is really one tom of using it thus in the setting of the Ency of suoointment 6 R ot . ron dnngt ¢ / latest ldea to cleatise table laces tised yellow dyg styff. a, Dle one. for the lace wears well and the kind of patchwork, and when completed It table is worthy of imitation. =~ comes actually necsssary for a woman, ¢ S et fien you = in a ater that is a very weak starch. A cloth of the bes me can afford, linen supports and gives it new bod. shows its workmanship. ¢ r .- - '; g s - :' TS 1 eec < t were the polished nful of arch to less than a with squares of d‘(alll':::dg of lace ap- and HfP.pp - & . % A cloth that rivals in richness anything called homel: arlance, come drain upon th amily purse will exceed al dishes of her possibilit the right propor- pliqued all over it, so that the diamonds Highly extravagant cloths, those in- seen lately and bears the full stamp of for placing under the prin i T will usually suffice and touch each other, i3 something that re- tended for Easter wedding gifts, are made novelty is of a damask brocade, with the home table and for g it would be much more UGUSTA PRE! - 5 e o o . . at-one side; the front is pompadour—a I = 41 good style for a round face. Especially Hints on Dressing the Hair | for,matrons is the “transformation coif | furé,” also a new French conceit. Th front is wavy, with small finger puffs at the top. The clever French woman has many ways of disposing of those short, stray hairs at the nape of the neck. which often stand out when the hair is dressed at the altitude and convert the most demurs mentlewoman into a veritable Madge Wildfire In appearance. They may be curled very closely to the neck, turning the ends in. s is a difficult matter to accomplish without assistance. Another simple way of disposing of them is to cur the strands of hair at the neck; this causes the short hairs to cling to the oth- ers when brushed up and gives a neat, compact appearance to the entire colffure. No one needs to fear an excess of deco- ration for the coiffure; three or four side combs and as many fancy pins are onl a beginning toward complete stylish ha dressing. Mercury wings in span gauze or set with precious stones are very effective, and silver set with ordinary brilllants is very showy. A dainty even- ing decoration a narrow wreath of vio- lets or some fine flower around the back hair and fastened at the top with an up- right bow of white satin ribbon. Feathers, | to Make a Fair Face Fairer end a Plain One Less Notice- ably Faulty—How the Sever- ity of a Roman Nose May Be | Tempered — The Contour of Head and Face Must Be Studied—Fluffiness Still Pre- wvails, but Not the Fluffiness We Have Had Before—Char- acter in the Hair. | | | | * - (Copyright, 1902, by the . B. McClure Com- pany.) © speak slightingly of the dangers connected with the sword of Damo- cles, which, as you know, was sus- pended by a single hair, is one “a single e enough; it's a head full of , or in Dle tresses, which man's fancy. He say hair is sa ce my peace of mind.” kness and sheen of a woman's ut doubt, make a strong ap- peal to & man and cause him to succumb thout a struggle. Nor is it unnatural e should appeal so directly his sense of womanly beauty. Having to go cloge cropped himself, with a stern repression of curls and crimps as effem- inate. men unite in adoring the charming- 1y combed hair of their women friends. Some few of the. fairer sex are clever enough to appreciate this fact, and at the outset study and then adopt the style of ffure that best suits the contour of beauty being greatly affected by the way in which hair is arranged; bad points are softened and even obscured, d good ones brought into prominen © universal mode can be blindly fol- lowed if a woman would have artistic proportions and bring out the best expres- sion of her face. For example, the severity of & Roman nose may be tempered by the arrange- mt of the ha which should not be pompadour, but parted softly from tho face and gathered gracefully at the crown of the head; the owner of a small nose can with safety wear the hair arranged on = line with it, but the woman with a Roman or long nose had better erect it on top of her head to avold showing the ex- from the tip of her nose to A round face needs hair p of the head, or, at least, hed off the forehead and 1 the middle should be avolded. If the hair is worn parted & becoming way for the woman who has passed her first youth is to part it on the side. This will take a few vears or so—five at least —from her age, and give pigquancy to the expression. The parting should be slight, mnot a pronounced line, which s hard and masculine. Any one with a broad brow should wear [T HE LOVER N as little hair on the temples as possible and dress it high. One with a low brow, when the eyes should keep the hair off her forehead in front and arrange a_few wavy locks on A receding brow should be partly covered with fluffy hair. effect of high cheek bones can be modi- fied by combing the hair over the tem- face and heavy jaw no straight lines of y sort; instead, the hair should be ar- that will give breadth tep the top of the head. 34 pess fortunately is still with us, although not. the fluffiness of the past. The Madonna Coiffure Classic Type of Beauty. For the Madonna coiffure the features must be fine and delicate, the eyes soft and modest and the complexion faultless- It requires a really classical, not to say beautiful, face to dress the hair in This may be also sald) of the Psyche knot—a pretty style for the fair set too high, the temples. Calls for A broad-faced woman, chin, should avoid a style of hairdressing which calls for curls or fluffy waves on either side of the head, the triangle por- tion of the face being thereby brought into greater prominence. For the broad - girl graduate when she does not wear her mortar board and Oxford gown—but it, too, demands a somewhat classic outline of feature. A quaintly charming and becoming coif- -fure—which one must be something of a beautyl to attempt—is to wear the hair in two very thick plaits, carried across from ear to ear, making exactly the line of an old-fashioned nightcap, such as opa sees on old village women. As a rule guaint n!mrlu modes, while becoming to @ beau- tiful woman, are trying to a plain one. It is the plain woman then who may go in for styles that are very English or very French and very fashionable. She may \ THISSTYE GIVES WER ComugcT PROPORTIONS make her hair ripple and wave and flow like that of the heroine of a threegrolume By the way, if the hair is waved it must be done in large, soft Ve not clese crinkled ones:‘ ENSS and The last word in Parisfan cofffures il- ustrates this idea. There are three waves with the sides taken up ears to the back, where they join in a heavy knot at the nape of On the crown are loosely rip- pling waves held with tortoise Very few faces are sufficiently faultless in outline to dispense with the pretty and becoming wavy, curly locks as a framing Only very youthful girls, very beautiful ones, or very strong mind- ed ones, brush the hair severely A plain woman, without a_suggestion of one or two wavy locks about the face, has either been disap- pointed in love, is interested in ‘women's clubs, or wants to vote. cou}idlm;(t pre:;lerve her 8004 looks an hour under such tr ent. If the neck is perfectly l’ormed?allf.mmav be left bare, but if lon it should have a few stray This refers more pa: The “lovers’ knot charming effect for a pretty neck. The wavy hair forms three puffs, with curls from the face. Ve 3 on the forehead, enus de Mediel loosely over the and serawny it ose, curly locks. y to evening for the face. aigrettes and bows are still with v most charming is a’ white aigrette, with dia- monds here and there, set in tiny wires that tremble with every move of the head Equally as pretty and equally as expen- sive is the butterfly, with feather wings and diamond body. A dull gold brooch or one of tortoise shell is pretty on falr halir to pin up the “love locks"; a silver clasp i3 better forf black hair. 'One must suit the style of ornament to the shade of the tresses be they coppery, Titian-hued, reddish-yellow or rust colored. Character Shown by the Hair. Woman may show her character mors by her hair than by eyes, nose, lips or ex- pression. Golden hair, of a soft, pale gold, without undulation, shows gentle- ness and tenderness, but mo force of character, if with pale blue-colored ey 1t Is indicative of coquetry: if with pale blue gray ey®s, a rentimental, but incon- stant person. Women with pale, blonde bair are affectionate, impulsive and easily moved to jealousy. Chestnut hair of a soft silky texture, and not very thic shows a romantic disposition: this is never seen on commonplace realist people. Fine bl#ck hair shows a high strung and sensitive nature. Dark brown hair is indicative of loyalty to a worth object that cannot be shaken by ill f tune. People whose hair is harsh h. amiable but cold natures. They afe a ways ready to listen, but it is difficult to arouse their feelings. They rarely good memorfes; they forget easily, are procrastinators and bad at keeping ap pointments. Coarse hair denotes stin. It must be borne in mind t there is a great difference between coarse hair and hair that is harsh, although It requires an expert to distinguish it. For example, hair may be as fine as silk, bu it cannot be trained in graceful wav that is because the hair is harsh. Close-growing hair indicates violent temper; without any wave or curl, & mel- ancholy disposition; wavy or curling and thick hair shows force of character and a certain ardor in love matters.