The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 23, 1902, Page 11

“ THE SUNDAY CALL 11 ZBEY WALRING TORBAN SIITH REDBIRD'S WINGY year three Easter , round straw tur- trimmed; a neat hat flowers, for calling; tive fluffy, floppy pic- ree you can get along U er month. But the day by and faded into ancient his- hen a woman could buy one hat y W and wear it as an Easter hat, and later appear in it during all the spring until the summe “onsolatipns there are in the matter of 5 You can make your do for garden parties answer as & traveling hat and an outing hat. As for the neat flower-trimmed hat or toque, it will do for matinees all the ing and for & calling hat in June when ou go cut for the P. P. C. calls—to tell people that you are golng away. But it is well to reconcile yourself to the fact that you will need thres hats &nd to make sultable appropriation in Fashion Say Leaders Nervous pear in What to Buy Only the purse line, for you must spend the money for them and think ahead as care- fully for your Easter headgear as for your dinner gowns. Three Easter hats you must have if you have to go without a shirt waist or two, and they must be in the_new_shapes and colors. Easter Colors. The Easter colors in different parts of the world are these: In Paris, white trimmed with flowers and lace. In Vienna, the black hat with brilllant trimmings. In London, the conservative trimmed with purple and gray. In this country there are daring color combinations that evoke the admiration of milliners all over the earth. For the first time in the history of American millinery there is a demand for the American Easter hat abroad and the “ymported” hat is a feature of the best establishments of London and Paris. The American sailor has long been known on the other side, but the Easter bhat not until this year. tones rade Upeon Fiith Avenue, If You Can s There Must Be Hats for Street, for Church and for Calling, and the of Styles Are Rushing Off in Anxiety to Secure the Earliest and Best of Each—Hats That Will- Ap- the Easter Sunday Pa- Buy The straw hat of Easter is certainly odd. It is chic and very becoming. There are many varieties of it and you can take your glck and choice. But in them all, and through them all, there is the note of oddity. Take the little straw turban which is to be so much worn. It is made of satin straw, curiously mingled in a sort of braiding until it is close and secure. Or it 1s made of colored cloth and straw braided together. picion of a crocheted stitch. Any and many a way it is put together, until it makes a handsome, firm material from which a hat is built. ‘The shape of the straw turban is circu- lar and turned up all the way around with the brim nearly as high as the crown, yet not quite as high. It is not the distinct boat shaps with high sides that concerl the top, but a boat-shaped turban. The brim sets out a little and the hat when, laid upon the table is perfectly round in shape. But when you have trimmed it there is more diversity. At each side you have &:rubably caught it up with a group of bird wings and under the wings you have placed a bunch of velvet. The Easter Turban. The color, if you are out for spring effect, is green with scarlet in {t. More like autumn it would seem to use scarlet in the hat trimming, but though it is spring, you will find that there {s many a touch of the flamingo. Let the hat be caught high at each side with the flaming red wings, in which there is some black, and let the ribbon be, say, a leaf green, in two shades, a dark leaf and a light leaf. A Around _the crown let there be some velvet laMl in a double roll and at the back let there be a velvet bow with the loops pointing both ways to make a neat finish. If the turban be cut down at the back the ends of the velvet can lie upon the hair. Otherwise a ribbon bow can be set vnderneath the back of the brim. There is another turban color com- bination. This is gray and violet, with a touch of green, and lovely it is. The hat which {s in gray is trimmed with ‘on all commonplace occasions. hwy biack wings, while violet velvet is twisted around the crown and violet velvet sets oft the wings. " A startling style of hat is the tri- corne, but you must be styllsh to wear it. Like the new veil, it requires some pecu- liar charm of manner and carriage ot the head to take it off well. Theé latest veil is one that is fastened in the back with a great splashing bow, while ends and loops set each way. Upon one woman it will look very nice, but upon another it will be positively grotesque. So with the tricorne hat. It does not become all is a three-cornered or tricorne ‘hat which lcoks very well and is pecu- liarly adapted to traveling use later on. It is a hat with very little trimming, but lit is so cut in the straw or so bent that the front comes down to a peak right over the nose, while the sides flare and turn up a littie and are caught with a bunch |of velvet loops. | An Easter Matinee Hat. i An Easter hat that was no hat at all, but a bow, was sold a few days ago for lauite a sum. It was called a matinee [toaue.” Tt was made out of pink satin ribbon of the color of a tea rose. The {ribbon was four inches wide. Over it was Istretched black veivet two inches wide, lleaving a margin of nink at each side. The whole was tied in a big double bow, J h ing hat, for one can be very gaudy in one’s devotion to Easter. And here one comes to a much more intricate treat- ment. ‘There is an Easter hat that is a rose hat. It is supplied with a round erown, covered with roses, not a spot of the hat showing except the roses; then there are rolling sides also covered with role? and the front and the back are all rosés. A rose hat it is, with the only trimming con- sisting of a small aigrette in front, with a rhinestone at the foot of the algrette. Easter Church Hats. Velvet and chiffon will be much used to- gether. Chiffon, which has been called the connecting link between winter and summer, holds its own this season, and more than holds its own, while velvet slips in as a companion. Velvet is good every- where, and with velvet and chiffon one cannot go far astray. Easter church hats are largely of velvet. A Gainsborough, not a picture hat, but a2 modified Gainsborough, has a wide brim faced with alternate folds of chiffon and velvet, the chiffon lying over the vel- vet. The top of the hat, the plateau part. is covered with Ifttle velvet cords, wound round and round like chenille. Caught at the front is a very long, very thick plume, and this extends over the top of the hat and falls at the back until it touches the hair and sweeps it a little. The ostrich feather, instead of going out, is coming in, and you will see many a feather-swept hat. Great, long, curling ostrich plumes are fastened at one side of a round hat and the plume is allowed to come across the front and to fall off at the side, in very pretty style, siving width to the front of the hat. The plume may curl thickly and cover the hat with 1ts close tendrils. The little flat-topped hat of shirred tulle is another medium for the ostrich feather. It may be lakge, without being large enough to be a picture hat, while right in the middle of the top is a circle of lace. Around the brim there curls a plume, ‘which Is carried all the way front, over the right side and down the back until it gracefully caresses the neck. The manner in which this is applied sug gests the way in which a boa is worn around - the throat —tossed carelessly around. Eastar Calling Hats. There are hats almost of nothing but one curling feather, which conceals every- thing else from a front view and leaves very little to be seen from the back ex- cept an openwork crown, very low and very flat. Among the smart calling hats, or thea- ter hats, may be mentioned the acorn hat, This is a round affair of white tulle with softly draped brim, the whole lylng in many folds. Over the white chiffon there are laid large green velvet oak leaves, cut out and appliqued, one by one upon the chiffon, until the crown and brim are all covered. A long brown stem finds its way across the top of the hat. At one side there is a mass of acorns, with brown cups, shad- ing into green. A hat of light tan chiffon was lifted at one side, while the whole top and brim was a mass of the chiffon. Big dots of black velvet trimmed the chiffon. Under the lifted side there were folds of white velvet, edged with black velvet, and these were arranged like leaves, so that their edges lay as though they were the leaves of a book. Another hat had a top of gray velvet. The front was covered with a mass of tulle and, right in the middle of the front, there were two big American Beauty roses with their leaves. Mrs. Astor’s Easter Hat. A hat to be worn by Mrs. John Jacob EATTER SUGGESTION IN SREEN with two loops at eacn side and no ends. It resembled an Alsatlan, except that there were double sets of loops at eacn side and a tight knot in the middle. Thig was to besset right upon the hair, in the middle of the pompadour, which was a low one, with a suggestion of a parting at one side and with a full set of waves at each side of the part. The straw turban is an outing hat and a walking hat and a street hat. It is a “trotting” hat, and one that is m’lphe rn e kur- ban and its cousins, the neat little round straw hats, are charming in their un- trimmed simplicity, and many of them are complete with their bows of velvet without other decoration. The very easily crushed flowers, the, soft malines and chiffons, the striped auzes and tulles and the soft stuffs of all filnds, are best used upon some other style of hats rather than upon these util- ity turbans; for they are for wear and tear and are of the ready-to-stand-by-you sort, that will go you through the vicissi- tudes of spring. The Easter church hat s also the call- . WITTIS SCARLET SERARUDAS . Astor is in the continental shape, which looks much like the three-cornered hat. The crown and bfim are of tucked violet colored silk, while pink roses are arranged around the crown. At one side a great big black velvet bow catches the brim against the crown. Another hat to be worn by this same well-dressed woman shows a round crown and a flat brim. Around the brim, very near the edge, there is arranged a thick puff of velling which is caught around the crown here and there with big buckle- like pins that stand upright. The top of the crown is trimmed with a mass of bows with short loops and short ends standing upright like one big bed of ends and bows. It is quite impossible to think out a hat this Easter. One must look at the pictures and study them and learn from them and from the shop windows how to make a hat. The woman who feels poor this Easter, and we all have our poverty spells, can banish the blues and come out quite glo- rious at Easter. Let her hie herself to the shop and purchase three yards of tulle, the color depending upon the shade of her spring suit. If it be gray, then get a faintly nickel tone of tulle. If the suit be blue, then get white tulle. If it be a brown, then select a pale coffee-colored stuff, a cafe au lait tulle. If it be black, then'again have refuge in white. If you do rot like colors at all, choose all black tulle, which is always ladyllke and very easily handled. Take the tulle and lozenge it. This means cut out circles of black velvet the size of a dime and attach them to the tulle at intervals of two inches. A little depends upon the style of the woman for a small person should not attemot the daring results” of the majestic style of women, but should content herself with fewer dots. ‘When the tulle has been lozenged, and for this thers is really nothing quite as modish as a faint yellow tulle with black spots, then wind it around the brim of the hat. Let it go round and round, and then let it start around the crown. Try to drape the whole hat with it, without covering it entirely. Making Your Easter Hat. Now take the brim and pick out the tulle until it lies in big folds, the lozenges in plain sight, and let the folds be heavy and open and soft. Catch them with big buckles of steel or of silver; or, if you feel very poor, with nothing ‘at all. But at one side set a big velvet knot and your Easter hat wil be complete. It will not equal a positively new one in your own estimation, but it will fool nine out of ten persons who view it. If you wear a veil let it also be dotted, but for this use the oval, long, narrow ones, sewed on here and there, but never cover the eye or the tip of the nose. The ribbon sash or scarf In the Easter hat will be among the novel sights. One hat, a straw with round brim and rather high crown, is trimmed around the brim with a long plaid scarf, but the scarf, in- stead of draping the brim or lying in folds, is threaded in and out in _iong stitches around the outer edge of the brim, four stitches being required to go around the brim. At the back it s tied in a bow with ends. Another scarf is threaded M and out, but this one is threaded around the crown itself, and for the threading there are big straps of straw, through which the ribbon is run, like straps upon the face of a piece of insertion. The scarf is very wide and lies in many folds. At one side it is tied in_many loops and ends. There are so many ways of using this sash this season. There is some attempt to have it hang down at the back in sash ends, and you do see many hats so treat- ed, but, truth to tell, the style is not yery becoming to many and it s positively rejudiclal from a standpoint of good ooks. It certainly takes height and grace to wear streamers hanging down one's back with good effect, and the woman without either will do well to consider. The scarf is used in place of ribbon to some extent, and pretty it looks in its devious windings. It is a decided adjunct to any hat of straw design, and no won- der that It is used In such a variety of ways. For Easter Automobiling. The automobile hat is something de- serving a chapter by itself. Hats are specially bullt for wearing in steam car- riages, and a clever compromise they ars between the outing hat and the erstwhile carriage hat. The big, fluffy hat, worn for carriage wear, will not do for automobiling, as it is too soft. It blows out of shape in the rapid progress of the mmehine. Neither will the delicate hat answer, as it will catch the dust. Roses and the like are unsuitable, unless properly treated, and ’lhe“aum hat comes to be a thing by tself. An automobile hat, worn by the wife of a Washington diplomat. a_handsome woman, is brown taffeta, the brim being a mass of tucks. Roses lle under the brim so that they touch the hair. The top of the hat has a bed of roses all fas- tened low and securely. Covering the roses there is a veil of waterproof ma- line, and the roses under the side are protected in the same way. An automobile hat worn by young Mrs. Blaine was a tri-corner of navy blue vel- vet as to the brim. The tri-corners were looped with deep red American Beauty roses. The top of the hat was lald in folds of white taffeta and navy blue velvet. Compactness is the watchword in trim- ming the automobile hat, and, while the rough and ready straws with their simple adornment of quills are much more suit- able, they are not considered quite pretity enough, and you see the hand- somely trimmed auto hats wherever you hear the whirr of the wheels. Easter Smartness. A smart tilt is given certain of these driving hats, though the tilt is so diffi- cult to keep in place upon the head. One side is lifted extremely high and under the high brim there i3 set a very large, handsome bunch of velvet or a Iittle side hill flower bed. Bunches ‘of tulle are also seen here, and there ara little bouquets of ribbon roses with the utmost semblance to the real roses. Looking at the hats one is constrained to wonder if the present vogue for fancy designs will ever go out and plainness succeed frivolity. Unfortunately for those who desire such an end, the pres- ent styles are becoming, and it i{s uncer- tain to pgedict that they will disappear. Give a woman something that is becom- ing to her and she will cling to it, even though the making of it take ail her time, and the purchasing of the mate- rlals of it all the money in her purse. ' When one thinks of the severe fedoras, the stiff walking hats, once called Eng- lish, the small square turbans, the hats that turned up at both sides precisely alike, and the square sallors without a touch of smartness in their trimming, then_ one shudders and is constrained to wonder how in the world, in those days, any woman at all managed to be pretty, and one does not marvel at the fact waat in those austere seasons thers were not more than two or three beauties, whereas every other woman now calls herself such. Easter Picture Hats. The big brimmed, floppy plcturs hat will be a feature. Do not confound it with the Gainsborough, nor with the classic Romney, nor with the Isabey, for it is_nothing of the sort. It is a big, loosely put together hat, with roses that dangle upon the ends of long stems and bunches of tulle that blow in the breezes and big veil-like streamers. These hats are made of tulle, shirred over a wire frame, or they have for their foundation a very open lace straw. The straw Is not stiff, but is wavy in the brim, taking on shapes according to the day and the desire. These big, floppy shapes can be pulled down at each side to look something like a poke; they can be lifted at the back to give the face an air of wistfulness under the drooping front brim; they can be raised at one side a little and a rose set under, just for the sake of the picture; or there can be the complexion rose, which is the big pink /rose, right over the eyebrow, to set off the peach tones of the face. It is in the big picture hat that 3 greatest coloring is seen, for the Dresden tones are used in wonderful color schemes; and there are pinks and blues and greens and white that lie all together in one lovely flower garden all nestling in a bed of tulle. The covered or draped brim, no matter how wide it Is seen, is bent and twisted to look well over the face. Garden party hats come under this class and they are immense things, mostly in white with colored roses. They are get- ting ready for Queen Alexandra's garden parties, which are to be features of the #Mew reign, and the most enormous hats of chiffon and jeweled tulle will be set full of roses, yellow, white and red, to make a glorious That will be the Alexan- dra_garden y hat and will mark the beginning of the Alexandra era, even as certain hats mark the beginning of the Victorian era,