The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 16, 1902, Page 3

THE SUNDAY CALL. by Uecorge H. Aspaen IS8 DORIS JEFFREY is the most original girl in San Fran- cisco. Sk also one of the prettiest, but it would be next possible to get her to lay title. Her originality is ing she does, and most t that she has won such having her head is shown /in her clothes and in her »f wearing them: in the way she er hair to suit each gown; in ¥ wes, which have created a veri- \.\" ie sensation; in her accomplishments, which are many and varied; in her ideas and the way she executes them, and in her sports, for she is an enthusiastic lover of outdoor exercise. Though she is a California girl, and ex- ceedingly proud of the honor, she has nt most of her life in the East and in rope. She was educated in one of the fashionable private schools in New York and then traveled extensively on the Con- tinent unt'i last spring, when she returned to this city with her parents, Mr. and Mrs. Willlam T. Jeffrey. They only re- mained here a few weeks before continu- ing their tour to Alaska. Miss Jeffrey did not caré to make the trip, and so it came to pass that she Irl THE PARK WITH 3 “DAWN DREAM PROTO BY GENTHE joined the social throng of the elite at SBan Rafael, under the especial care and chap- eronage of Mr. and Mrs. R. V. Halton. It was here that she first displayed her genius for originality by carrying every- thing before her in the field of society sports last summer. She s & beautiful girl, who would at- tract attention anywhere, but as an equestrienne she is particularly charming. Tall, slender and graceful, with a great wealth of dark brown hair, which she twists with bewitching art into the most striking and pecullarly becoming colf- fures; large dark eyzs, that are the glory of every picture she has ever had taken, yet she dresses with a simplicity and pearance the more notable. She rides with splendid dash. Since ‘earliest infancy she .l;l-‘l -.l;uy- had a horse of her own, and for the past sev- eral years a whole stable full in New >DOut her York. Her New York horses she has trained herself, so it is no wonder that her at once as a skilled horsewoman. Be- fore many weeks had passed she had won the admiration of the whole town and {racts and holds the attention. It was placed on exhibition at the Hop- kins Art Association during the recent display of photographic art and created an instant sensation. No name was given and the only words of identification were ‘When the paper chases were proposed she entered for the sport with her own favorite horse Dawn Dream, which had been presented to her by her father just She Is the Charming ¢“Unknown,” Who- Posed for “The Challenge,” ‘a Picture That Was the Sensation of the Recent Photographic ‘Salon Exhibit. before he went to the Klondike. It is a beautiful animal, one of the best hurdlers in the State and a perfect match for such notable racers as Judge McAllister's Lilly, Mr. Fisher's Blazes and Mr. John- son's Pickles, all of which have followed the hounds to victory in many a wild ride across’the Marin hills. With a dozen other excellent riders en- tered for the chase it was a hard fleld to beat, but when the hounds caught the scent she surprised every one by sending Dawn Dream into the lead and keepiug him there until the “death.” In the same way she rode all the races of the series against big odds with no more signs of fatigue than she would have shown after an easy morning canter through the park; and as she always finished in the lead the trophy was hers at the end of the sea- son. Indeed, this valuable silver cup, on which is engraved the brief record of her triumph, is among her most treasured possessions. She next showed her originality in a dozen different pictures taken by Arnold Genthe. They are not merely pretty por- traits, showing the most pleasing contour of her face; each is the embodiment of some idea, some emotion, and in several 1 combination of emotions. One of them, “The Challenge,” is a modesty that only serve to make her ap- masterpiece of photography. It is & two- thirds lite-size picture of Miss Jeffrey with her arms full ef delicate wild flow- ers and her hair gathered in a loose mass The spirit and meaning of the picture shown in the coquettish smile of the lips and the tantalizing turn of the eyes are so obvious that the title is her ease and grace in the saddle marked quite superfiuous to the beholder. It is a portrait filled with nerve and force and that mysterious, elusive quality that at- TICHSCD ). T5E PosTeR MR — — | I SR \ e . {‘.d contained in the title quoted above, but they furnished absolutely no clew to the real personality of the original of the picture. Mr. Genthe himself was asked repeatedly to tell who she was, but he only smiled and looked wise. When he answered at all he said: “She is the most original girl I have ever photographed. She is not only beau- titul and as sweet and simple and modest as a girl can be, but she is capable of a wonderful amount of feeling. Her face fs remarkably expressive, and she can depict at will all the finer qualities of a noble womanhood. ‘Who is she? Ah! that I cannot tell you.” And so with such a tribute from such an artist curiosity was stimulated afresh and the original of “The Challenge’” was given a new.identity every day as the excitement increascd, until that part of the gallery in which the plcture was hung became the chief center of attrac- tion. Every one came to look and won- der and admire. There was always a big crowd standing before it and a dozen times the mystery was solved only to deepen into a greater mystery than ever. But it was not until the exhibition had closed and the pictures had all been taken away that the truth leaked out. Then, and not till then, it became known that it was Miss Jeffreys’ personality that had made her portrait one of the most _striking creations ever shown in the Hopkins art galleries. There are other pictures, however, which Mr. Genthe might have put for- ward with the same remarkable result. One is a three-quarter figure showing Miss Jeffrey dimly outlined in a dark background, wearing a long coat and a picture hat. Only the face stands out clear and distinct, animated with that roguish smile that made dainty little Fritzi Scheff the adored of all the prima donnas of the receht grand opera season. Ard like some of Genthe's pictures of Miss Scheff it is arch without being bi- z arre. In contrast to this is the figure of “The Law,” a classic pose full of strength, purity and dignity. Still anether con- trast is shown in the ‘‘Poster Girl,” in which Miss Jeffrey wears a fashionable street dress and a stunning picture hat for a full length photograph. Another beautiful pose full of original- ity and grace which, as yet, ls unnamed, is shown in the circle on this page. It is one of Miss Jeffrey’s own studies and roveals her genius for arranging her hair in such a way as to change the whole ex- pression of her face. Her own favorite portrait, however, and her mother's as wnll, is a large head, in which a full front view of the face is shown outlined in strong lights and shad- ows, and out of which she looks with serious eyes that are almost sad in their earnestness. Without an effort at affec- tation it is a curious picture full of a vague suggestion of oriental mysticism that is strangly appealing. In another picture in the same pose Miss Jeffrey has shown her originality and versatility by altering the entire lglrl! and expression of the portrait by the simple addition of & long spray of 14 tucked carelessly into the {g“‘ cofls of her hair. It would fittingly resent the fhdume summer uuon"E "'ll!h allegorical masterpiece. ese pictures are all the more remark- able because there is absolutely no at- tempt at elaboration in either the cos- tumes or the accessories. On the other hand in matters of dress and personal adornment Miss Jeffrey's originality {s most pleasingly displayed. One gown of her own designing, which easily rivals the latest French models, is of black silk and lace. The skirt, which fits tightly over the hips and clings ciose to the figure, flares suddenly at the knees into blllows and billows of deep ruffles which end in a full train. Fllmy lace as fine and gauzy as a spider's web, cover- ing the whole skirt from waist to hem, is also gathered in deep ruffles from the knees down. The bodice of black silk is cut modestly decollete and finished with tight fitting elbow sleeves. Over this the same deli- cate lace is used to form an outer bodice, which, however, is only slightly open at the throat and through which the soft skin of the shoulders is faintly outlined. ‘With this the hair is worn in a loocse wavy coiffure, held in place on top of the head with a big butterfly of black and silver. The effect of the whole toilet is sufficiently striking without any fur- ther elaboration, but the daintiest touch of originality is yet to come. When she is fully dressed Miss Jeffrey has sprinkled over her hair fine particles of silver dust, which are permitted to sift through the heavy curls and fall on the fair skin of the delicately rounded throat and shoulders. A few grains are also dropped on the bare arms from the elbow to the wrist. Under the bright electric lights of the parior or dining-room the effect is in- describably beautiful. The silver dust glistens in her hair and scintillates from the fine mesh of lace at her throat and bust like a thousand tiny jewels ever changing and shimmering in new lights as she moves about the room. Another costume of pale blue silk and delicate illusion is carried out with much the same effect—except that it is cut decollete to a deep V_shape in front and high in the back and filled in with a yoke of the same sheer lace fastened in place at the left side of the throat with a huge bow of the same material fashioned to give a pompon effect. A pompon of the same colored lace is used in the hair, which is dressed in a high pompadour. Instead of silver dust, fine iridescent par- ticles combining all ‘the colors of the rainbow are used. The result is entranc- ing, but at the same time quite mystify- ing to one who knows little of the secrets of milady’'s toilet. In her accomplishments, among which Miss Jeffrey numbers painting as her favorite, rhe has further-shown her orig- inality Ly combining a saint-like quality with Carmenesque seductiveness in the half-serious, half-smiling face of a beau- tiful womun, which she is now just fin- ishing on a small canvas. Her own unaffected girlishness is best shown, however, in a full-length portrait study of her, which the Italian artist, Matteo San Dona, has nearly completed, In it she i8 wearing a big Leghorn hat trimmed with roses and a summer cos- tume of pink chiffon and lace with tight- fitting sleeves, belled at the elbows and slashed to show a lining of contrasting material. The pose—an almost jaunty walking attitude—is particularly animat- But Miss Jeffrey does not confine her originality to mere matters of art or dress alone. She has a passion for writ ing, and the talent as well, though it is a pecullarity of all the stories she creates that the sterner sex are always omitted from the plot except as minor incidents. In one story—and a sweet, sympathetic narrative it is—there are only three wo- men, and no men at all. Asked why she left them out, she answered naively: “Oh, 1 forgot all about the men. Be- sides they Wwere so unnecessary to the story. 1 think many stories would be better without them.” Miss Jeffrey’s observations on her own sex are equally pointed, though, as she says, she is an enthusiastic admirer of California woz truly th - ‘ornia women are most. beautiful creatures in all the ml&" she says, “but when one has been abroad for any length of time one notices such a sameness about them all when Te- turns. They all dress very much alike and nearly all wear their h: in the same fashion—a high pompadour—with the back hair drawn up smoothly from the neck and caught there with two or three small combs. “It is a fashion that 1is very, very becoming to most women, but it tends to rob them of their individuality. The coif- fure, I think, should be just as much a matter of differing styles as one’s gowns for morning, afternoon and evening wear; especially when it is so easy, if a woman has beautiful hair, to arrange It iIn some of the many lovely styles. In faet, every gown should have its own special coiffure, particulariy among such splendid women as_our famous California beau- tles. Oh! ] do admire them so muech for what they are, and more for what they might be.” Of her own self, however, Miss Jeffrey cannot be induced to talk.