The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 26, 1902, Page 2

THE SUNDAY CALL g_—___—____—___—_______—____—_____________fl‘\ WRAT DAME FASHION STAMES WITH es to be excess i kinds on promi in al of has not ex stamp de it im the onl magic the down retained ther one and be saving s that the tailors and dressmaxers are buzzing about. This is the stagnant time of the year, and there is infinitely more “managing” than buying for the present. People are afrald to buy an out and out new gown, but as occasion calls for something natty and half way smart, they get their ingenuity to work and o the next best thing. Nettings are put on over all kinds and colors of silk, Almost any old gown that is too badly frayed to be presentable s 2 good background for lace or t @'esprit. Lace is pre-eminently the regenerator of the “past season rrock.” There is seldom a time when it falls to brighten and to add materially to any gown, whether it is new or old. Some woman who had a limited supply of means and thirteen daughters to dress sald that lace was a good investment. That is, of course, roughly handled it will do time and time again and never appear any the worse for wear. It is thoroughly appropriate everywhere and appears to good advan- tage on either light or heavy weight ma- good lace. Unless " terfal. She advised everybody to buy lace ~hen they had a little extra car fare on sand, saying that the fashion for it would never go out, and that age only enhanced its value. So, girls, if your wardrobe is entirely bereft of that article, wait until the Jan- uary sales are on and then sally forth prepared to buy. Real lace is not essen- tially necessary, although it is very fine; still, it has its drawbacks. You will never like to chop it up into appliques, for one thing. A good machine-made gulpure and Chantilly Insertions are really made valu- able just at present. Unless one examines these high-grade imitations with a keen eye one is not the wiger, and the effect is exactly the same, while one's con- sclence is infinitely easler. So if you haven't any make-belleve-real-lace just g0 out and remedy the matter. And there is another thing that every woman ought to have, and that is a house gown and a pretty one at that. What- ever else changes fashion these dainty frocks are never out of place. House gowns are constructed with plenty of lace, frills and furbelows, and . that makes possible the release of the body from the stays, and the woman who is wise will appreciate this fact and wear such a gown at least two or three hours a day. " Some women fall to have in thelr closets 1 single gown that looks dainty and fetch- ing to wear at home. All thelr money is spent on their street clothes. This is a mistake and @ bad one. For good dress- ing, like charity, begins at home. Soft light-welght wool is the best ma- terial to use, as it clings gracefully to the .sigure, Such a gown should never be made tight fitting, and yet it must not be too negliges. If the back is made close fitting and trained and the front is full 'and flufty, a happy medium is struck. A holero or o lace jacket is pretty and sarticularly becoming to a tall woman, as it in & measure detracts from her height. The question of color has not been taken up a8 yet this year, but it is a good prin- ciple to remember to wear colors that harmonize with the color of the eyes and hair, Most women with brown eyes look their best in brown, and you seldom find e woman with blue eyes to whom that color i8 not becoming. The individuality should be shown in colors as far as possible. 'While it is pol- icy to conform to the popular styls, one's own particular taste must be considered, The woman who has passed thirty looks better in neutral tints than in any strong shades, no matter how swell they are, for they only serve to bring out the wrinkles and ell minor defects. 3 Fig. I—Shows the new pose that the corsets give one. i Fig II—The correct way of hooking the new four clasp. Fig III—The front view, showing how to adjust the tightness. Fig.IV—Back view, show- | ing how the upper part is let | out to give breadth. 1 Fig. V—Direct front, show- ing height and breadth, Fig., VI—Side front, in which the curve over the hip is shown. Fig. VII Drawing laces downward to make the waist smaller. X 5 Your dressmaker will try her best to persuade you to buy the prevailing color and material, no matter how you chance to look. Don't do it. This-will mean, of course, that you will be obliged to glve personal attention and even study in fact to each and every gown, and after all isn’t it better to wear your own fancles than the worn out ones of your dressmaker? Never have chiffon or lace and all kinds of fluffy things been more in demand than now, and the wholesale people have been ordering such things by the dozen bolts. Chiffon particularly, Even though it Is terribly perishable, it makes the daintiest, softest effects, and the expense is not more than that of anything else of that description, “Eweet simplicity” in finery always costs more than it looks worth to an in- experienced eye. But beware of the “simple little gown.” It is always a snare and a delusion and such a delightful one, Thero i{s one thing that we are abso- lutely certain about, and that is the use of furs, Almost any kind and every color are belng utilized in one way and an- other, Even evening gowns have not been exempt, A yellow contrasts with an +otter or mink, seal shows off to good ad- vantage with pink and white simply looks stunning with black, Mrs, Potter Palmer created quite a sen~ il sation by wearing a black velvet profuse- Iy trimmed with ermine. The skirt was made with a long train, and as she is a large, regal-looking woman—just the kind to carry off such a gown—the attentlon of feminine eyes was attracted her way all the evening through. ‘While few of us, very few, can splurge in black velvet and ermine, we can wear black with white fox. When there is no ermine about it i{s surprisingly fetching. Actresses have been responsible to a cer- taln degree for this fad of fur. Watch and see how many play gowns are trimmed with it and you will realize that the fur trade has been quite a flourishing one. Probably you will notice something else, and that is that the stage is taking the lead as far as all fashions are con- cerned, and that you only have to sit, admire and take pointers for a stunning tollet. Al the Money in the &orld N 1873 the world's stock of money con- sisted of $1,200,800,000 in gold, $1,057,885, 000 in silver and $2,322,545,000 in unco ered paper, or about $4,600,000,000 in all. Uncovered paper includes notes In excess of metallic reserves held for their secur- ity, the latter being virtually in circula- tion through their paper representatives. In 1890 the total stock of money had in- creased to $11,600,000,000, of which $4841,- 000,000 was gold, $3,815,900,000 silver and $2.- 960,100,000 uncovered paper. This shows an approximately equal increase In gold and silver, while that in paper currency is relatively small. It Is to be remembered that in Indla and China and most of the East the bulk of the money in circulation is silver. Taking the last year, the largest total stock of money of any one nation was that of the United States, amounting to §1,020,200,000 gold, $643,300,000 silver and $336,600,000 uncovered paper, and the next largest that of France. The amount per capita of population was larger in France, being $37 03, against $26 21 in this country, but there is nothing like the same use of bank checks and drafts in France as here, Of the per capita amount in this coun- try $13 87 is gold, $8 43 silver and $4 41 pa- per, making gold somewhat more than half. In France the proportion is still Jarger, notwithstanding a considerable use of legal tender silver, being $21 05 gold to $10 94 of silver and $ 04 of bank notes. In Great Britain the stock of money consists of $486,700,000 in gold, $111,900,000 silver, wholy subsidiary eoin, and $112,- 800,000 consisting of notes of the Bank of England and a few provincial banks, The per capita amount is $11 96 in gold, $2 75 silver and $2 75 paper, or $17 46 in all. The volume is larger in Germany, both absolutely and in proportion to popula- tion, the former -being - $697,000,000 gold, $208,400,000 silver and $173,800,000 paper, a total of $1,080,100,000 and the per capita $1335, $398 and $332, a total of $20 65, These comparisons indicate In a general way a difference among the leading com- mercial nations in the use of credit in- struments in place of money, kc wiBade S SR Australasia 1s credited with ne paper currency, and a per capita of 32993 In money; 3§28 38 consists of gold and $1 35 of silver. In the South Africa colonies, too, the circulation is nearly all gold, being $17 50 per head in Cape Colony and $26 54 in the South African Republic, or Orange and Vaal River colonies, while in India it 1s mostly silver and only about 3§l 50 for each of 296,909,000 people, China Is lit- tle better off, with $196 per capita, ail siiver, It is an interesting. fact that the increase In the world's production of gold Just about keeps pace with the demand for money.—New. York Mall and Express.