The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 26, 1902, Page 15

15 her family to de New Black Suits. e of its econ e waist make with the front buttoning toward ft and fastened with gimp fixt the beit there would be the bl coming down over a low p cioth. The bs of the waist would be perfectly pl g colls the neck blouse could oot. At the back I would terminate the flounce and lay the entire k, from the waist down, in side se side plaits would be narrow at the belt line and arranged so as to give the accordion effect. Thus I would make my February suit. For the Blowy Days. “For the blowy days.” continued she, *1 would make a March gown. This can f’" Sroe s < VENING oRESY L (N SHPFON oveRm \ ¥ PE AV ith both of . nglish box coat; with eit be made of weight, or ts I would have ne that could be would do. It could cloth of very heavy adeloth, It should be % high turn-over collar double breasted with three fastening it. It need not have buttons. The sleeves can simple turn-over cuff. length is the length that s for both February and e up in it.” Black for Evening. very wise dress authority who sed a woman, wishing to make a dis- tinet impression in the evening, to dress all in white. “In a gown of white,” said he, “you are visible from everywhere. At liked and s March are m v Hcusg. the same time It fs not consplcuous, Tt is the one attractive color that does not artling in any light.” same, only more, might be said of a fashionable as in grena- dotted. ntire surface of the the est black velvet spots. Y Were not shaggy, but smooth, really a fine soft velvet, not the heavy, shaggy sort usually used for this purpo: Down the front of the walst there was 7 in silvered leaves and the t down the front sprays of the leaves the beit downward, decor- a few evc P panel and stretched oft toward Here and > were embre owers in black silk and, in flowers, were drops’ of pearl beads carefully gown, which was con- u sweep length, had a ruch around t . ry o a at - the nd which con: ed of any ruch- all applied, one above the oiher, to nake & deen trimming [he neck, pointed frunt a ek, had a double ruching of chiffon. The sleeves were of elbow {ransparent. gown. There is an adage that if a woman wants a man to love her she should wear white. This also applies to black. ‘She who wears black hypnotizes.” “Black is the charm ¢olor,” sald a Beau Brummel a few days agp, & man who has studled dress from the middle of the last century. The Tale of a Gown. And there is a story told of a young woman of much beauty and many at- tractions who wished to win the man of her heart. In vain she looked her pret- tiest, and In vain she chose more and ength and very delicately So much for the black bail 2 She WTl Bind That T8 1s a Faghicnsble / FanQy o Gown RHerself Tnthe Rug of, Ebery for Morning, Neen and ~ NiGRt amd Ffor Street amd 7 New Modes for SUits Tn AN 7 more becoming colors. He admired her, that was plain, but how deepen his ad- miration into love? A young woman of proper spirit would have said, “If he does not love me as I am, it is best that he do not love me at all.” But not so reasoned this young woman. She kept on and kept on, determined to old captivate. On one day an maid, one who had s 3 & wealthy family, =aid to “Why does not Madamoiselle try black for once, black gauze? Madamoiselle would be so truly fascinating.” The next evening the young woman ap- peared in a gown of biack gauze. The skirt fell all foamy and billowy around her and swept behind so "attractively. t the waist was the crowning thing. as in gauze, cut surprisingly low. ng it up properly there was a gauze ruffle at the neck and a little gauze gimp shirred upon a tiny ribbon that could be tied and untied. Her arms were ept for black lace clbow s, made plainly. In her halr a afgrette gleamed saucily and when black she put on her hat she put on her hat, for the gown wasedonned for a reception ccecasion, it was a soft thing in black maline, set far back upon her head and draped’ in white, with a black jet buckle at ane side looping up the brim. The gown, it is related, was a success, the and young man's captivation wa compiete. In the bla evening fabrics there are several that are to be recommended for their durabilit “repe de chine, that ma- terial that looks so delicate, yet in reality is very tough and_ which ‘will bear a al of rough treatment without 3 wear and tear. Is In favor. Crepe tine Is an old materfal which has come into favor again, and it s going to be more popular now than it ever was Lefore. Never entirely out of style, it is directly in again, and comes In all colors, cach fashionable tint being shown. The New Waists, Rlack crepe de chine, as well as crepe de Faris, is very adaptable and looks well made up Into entire costumes as well as into separate bodices. They are showing a new crepe de chine waist which is very good and can be worn by any one. Upon the youthful fig- ure it is becoming. Yet, worn by an elderly person it seems speclally adapt- ed to each curve and line of the mature figure. In blue the material {s made up as a shirt. waist, lald in the smallest accor- dlon plaits.’ The entire walst Is treated in this way, front and back. The sleeves are the same, with the accordion plalts stitched down upon the upper arm, but released at the elbow and allowed to flare to the wrist, where they: are held in tightly under a little cuff. The trimming of the newest of thess 74 77 7/ chiffon or of taffeta. This makes the fash- fonable eascade. Accordion plaits are used as waist trim- mings, or, properly speaking, the whols waist {s ¢ mass of these. The difficulty In this walst lies in the effort to keep it snug at the belt line. But if the front be allowed to blouse and the back be brought down and pinned well underneath the belt the whole will be good. This sort of a walist is very youthful in its lines and is liked by those who have tried it. The stock can be a plain black one, with a long strip of crepe de chine or other ma- terial going twice around the neck and hanging down the front with ornaments upon the ends. In trimmings, flounces, berthas and wrist finishings the accordlon plait leads in the matter of deli acy, though not in the matter of durability, for it {s apt to coma out, and unless of very soft fabric it is pretty sure to do so. In stuffs it loses its plaits in a moist for that reason cannot be worn on a damp day. Not for Showers. Poplin,. brilliantine and those stiff fabrics which look so precise and correct when first plaited will stralghten and lose all semblance of accordion plaiting under one of the trifing showers of spring. And this leads to a tale of a brilliantine med with great Roman blue velvet dots. It was well lined and had a chamois Wwalst beneath.’ A heavy black muslin boa twined around the neck. Well, on the first wearing, which was for a calling tour, on ladies’ day, the day following New Year's day, there came up a little scurry of snow and the waist melted beneath it. Literally melted, for all the stiffening was gone, and the plaits came out as though driven out by a flat- iron. Not even a crinkle remained. The waist, released of all plaits, lost all shape, and ere. the unhappy wearer could get home it hung like a great loose baz around her, without semblance of waist or fit. The moral of this tale is to use gome judsment in the use of he attract- ive and decidedly fashionable trimmin; The magpie effects are decidedly good. These are in bilack and white, étlck waists of satin, taffeta, brocade, moira or what not in the way of dre fabrics, are trimmed with white lace. This is put on in fancy ways. One very decorative mode of trimming a black walst with white lace is by the application of lace in a pattern. Lay it on eat scallops and let it outline the yo The wider and finer the lace the better. A Lace Finish. Decorative lace, with two or three kinds of lace combined the fashlonable novelty Sleeves can have their n one pattern, in ces, is excellent. i finishing the walst in black, instead of in white, as is general- ly_the custom. s that are The trimm: than the o merely outline vest or yoke those that come from the trim one shoulder. There are ns that are specially fitted Beginning at the back in a fig- come over the shoulder and make a scroll in front. Very striking this more novel i3 in coarse lace upon a moire background of black. A trimming of white that was used very good results upon a walst of satin consisted of two semicircles lace, laid ome 'over each shoulder, something in the manner of epaulettes, but=further up upon the shoulder tha epaulettes go, -and very flat, not stand- ing out or pointing upright, or ruffied. The point lace flounce, as wide as your and gathered upon a very narrow vt han white sQ"n ribbon, is a thing to conjurs Wor with. around the neck and allowed 0 make a yoke effect, It is These point lace ruffles, trimmed with small roses, are seen at the most elegant soclal fu: ons and the beauty of them that tn look equally well upon the high necked gown or the low necked one. Little Lace Sets. The little lace sets that can be pur- chased In the snops can be made to do very good service upon a black gown or a colored ome. But speclally upon ck. They dress up a waist so per- fectly and raise it not only in beauty, but in dignity, to the rank of a handsoms article of dress. There are lace sets that include roses of lace and these can be used upon the skirt, A few lace roses, placed at the head of a circular flounce of chiffon. are most ef- fective and they are good v to figure a black skirt. A plain black taffeta fin- ished with three ruffles becomes really elegant with the lace roses scattered over it. @ Furs are now so cheap that the time of buying is ripe. Moreover, the sharp cold has nearly passed and the pretty uses of fur can be sought. The skins that were sts 1s both pretty and pecuiiar. It sts of dots of black velvet, each as rge as a silver quarter. These are but- ton-hole stitched around the edge with white silk and applied to the walist here, there and everywhere, as many dots b ing used as the waist will bear. Usualiy the front will not look well if burdened with more than nine, while the back should have not quite so many. The size of the person and the length of waist of the one who is going to wear 't decide the number. 1t smaller dots are used they can be employed to dot the entire waist«except the yoke, which is left untrimmed, thus making it distinct from the rest of the walist. Accordion Plaits. The black shirt waists are accordion plaited and trimmed or untrimmed, Vel- vet dots look very well upon them, and each dot should have its buttonhole stitch- ing, either in white or in color, or it may have & black buttonhole stitching. Accordiun plaits threaten to be the pop- ular trimming of the spring. They are so becoming that they plead their own way to favor. An accordion plaited skirt, wit the plaits stitched upon the hips and tront and back—tightly stitched to the knee line, then suddenly released—is one of the handsome novelties of early spring. It re- . quires careful dressmaking to make it hang well. But once done it is a great success. Under the bottom, to make the Tipple fuller, there is set a plaiting of walst of nickel gray, one of those soft, lovely, delicate shades which we asso- clate vm.h! rides, - hln!lom!"and t: E s W was a N, P Sion Dlatesd and mlm used for warmth can now be utilized for trimmings. Gowns of black velvet, cloth and heavy stuffs can have their jackets turned back in the front to make deep pels.