The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 5, 1902, Page 14

14 THE SUNDAY CALL. 1902 be in despair. There i= no one fabric so much in evidence one material so much needed in the schemes of dress, alf as becoming. n the robes of 1802 would f their gauziness and the gen- of the lightness would be gone. Chiffon is seen both winter and sum- mer and has been called the connecting link betw these two extremes of sea- of July & woman vells makes her stock of it £0wn is trimmed with it and her bodice is fashioned entirely of it. fur coat is decorated with it, and her linings partake of its puffings, while her underskirts rejoice in its shirrings. Chiffon means more to-day to the woman of fashion than it ever did before and the ¢ ets say that it will continue to iner meaning and in fashionable growth. The new uses to which it is put are too many to be mentioned and too varied to allow of description. As a velling it now comes in dotted form, the @ots of dliffer- ent colors on the opposite sides. If this very French of velling cannot be ade a woman dots it fine needle and much pa- tience The Ways of Chiffon. A Queen Louise stock is another article of chiffon wt she wears. This is a long vef ing from the back of the m hi from ack of a fur der a much sts around until it forms a she t es hese ends are embroiderad is mot all the ways of chiffon. As 2 bodice stuff it is so much seen that to attempt to tell of new ways of treat- ment opens up & field inexhaustive. But there is 2 chiffon bodice that may be new. It is upon a foundation, for chiffon is too sheer to go elone, and it is shirred every inch, to make inch-wide puffs. These are attached to the under part or med—an entire h " Ton puffs. The Duchess of Marl gh wore one ©of these. And over it, coming well up un- e arms, she wore a gray cloth prin- t, as lustrous as can be imagined, with & weaith of arbutus embroldery eround the foot, where it decorated the fiare flounce. A petticoat, nearly all pink chiffon, wes in evidence, with & fiash of gray in it. An 0dd chiffon trimming was worn by the Duchess one day. It was one of the many receptions given in her honor and the two little ones, the Marquis of Bland- ford and Lord Ivor, aged 4 and 2 years, were present. They were in British trou- sers, dear little fellows, all white linen end made sallor fashion. Her Grace’s Gown. But her Grace wore a black gown with & looping of pink chiffon around it. It went around the skirt in leaps, one big puffing, tied every six inches with a nar- row black satin ribbon. The looping was and this, tied with the black ped upon the black skirt, of the flare flounce, was the ways of using chiffon fabric 1s remarkable. alone that this Much more note may be taken of the new kinds of chiffon. These are really nu- mero varied and wonderful in many re- spects. One thet at the coronation of iward there will be three fab- s ermine, one is minever—if a be called a fabric—and the third n. are trying to get 2 new name for are succeeding part way. The new gauzes are really the old chiffons under 2 new name and the heavily deco- rated gold and silver tissues are really, when you come to look at them, our 10- year-old friend—chiffon! A magnificent skirt to be worn at one of the beautiful functions arranged for ber Grace will be a very thin skirt, per- baps mousseline de sole. It is so sheer that it really lacks a name. But upon the gkirt, which is a very long one, there are flowers appliquea in great quantity, and these are placed not in scattered design, but in bouquet shape. The stems are below with a few roses scattered around their roots, as though dropped from the stemis above, while higher up grow the roses. The Uses of Elowers. The woman wko seeks, in her considera- tion of spring suits, to avold the lavish use of artificial flowers, will find that not she out of le, but she is neglect- most effective of all the season’s ar nres, for flowers will be to the gown this spring what applique was a year ago: what passementerie was the year before tha t the tinsels and galloons were three springs ago, and what stitching was for years to the best modistes and the finest gow All the remnants of the years will re- appear, but they will background the violet decorations and they will supple- ment the trimmings of lily of the valley and the embroideries that show the gar- den flowers gathered in a bunch. Upon your spring hat you will wear a market bunch, a gladiolus, a rose, some geraniums, may be a few cherries, and who knows but the lilac and the hyacinth will be added to the list. These have been kept by themselves, a thing apart, some- thing of spring delicacy, but they may join the great majority this spring. If you contemplate 2 gown for dinners— and what woman is there who does not glance longingly at the dinner gowns of the season—then give up the idea of some- thing heavy and go in for something thin. Do it, even though your last six dinner gowns were thin, all made with a trans- parent yoke and all showing the lining be- neath. Transparent Yokes. Try for novelty in the transparent yoke. Have it so thin that your neck looks as though uncovered and lay handsome ap- plications upon it, fastened so as to show off the best points of your throat and neck. Let your stock be absolutely novel —there are many ways of securing novelty —and around the very upper edge run a little strapping of colored ribbon. Let the ribbon match the color motif of some part of the vest, or the beit, or the sash. The dinner sash deserves/a chapter of its own. It is 5o very good and necessary. ‘There are so many sashes, too, all in the best of form. The chiffon sash is charm- ing. You know its possibilities, but when you have done admiring it then turn to the sash of panne and you will begin to admire all over again. If you really are tired of the transparent dinner gowns, then turn to the pannes. There is panne velvet, delightfully adapt- able. You feel that you are wearing vel- vet and you know that you look velvety, yet there is a lack of weight. The miroir pannes are beautifully be- coming to all. One of pink, made for Miss Fuller of Washington, shows a little blue across its sheen and there Is a won- derful mingling of blue and pink, all to- gether looking like grass in certain lights, yet not at all like grass, for there is no green, yet if you have an eye for color you will see a little green in it. That is ‘what makes it 8o becoming, its soft shad- ings. Harmonies in Pink, This gown Is very plain as to the bod- fce, which is laid in plaits, very tight, running across the front of the walst. They are loosed a little across the bust. At the belt line the gown suddenly takes princess lines, and then you realize that the cross folds of velvet are only walst trimmings, that the whole is a princess gown decor- ated with folds upon the waist. Conch shell jewelry and pink jew- elry of all kinds is worn with pink panne, o that the whole Wwill be in harmony. L Pearls go with all dinner gowns, and the fact that pearls mean téars is forgot- ten in the revival of these gems. The fact also that they can be imitated makes them popular, and it is claimed that the artificlal pearls are worn by people of high quality, those who could afford the real pearls, but who prefer to wear the artificial, while the priceless heirlooms slumber In a safe deposit vault. The panne silks are almost as satisfac- tory and are still lighter in welght. They are much like the old changeable silks, with a_great deal more softness and lus- ter. There §s a perfectly beautiful and much to be desired gloss upon them, a something which makes them picture gowns, and which quite does away with the necessity for any trimming, beyond a little lace and mayhap a contrasting belt. Black is quite indescribably good upon the panne silks of all colors. A gown of panne silk was in gray, with a little blue light crossing it. The modistes will tell you that panne is like water. It reflects the colors overhead. Under & blue ceiling a gray panne will show ‘blue, under a white, cream. It fis certainly worth studying, for in this day of artistic dress nothing can be lost sight of. A Hat in Gray., With this gown, which was a calling dress in gray, there was worn an English walking hat, all of gray chinchilla. It was entirely covered with the fur, top, sides, brim, facing and all—just chinchilla, But rgiht in the top, lying low and nestling close, were a dozen pink silk roses, There they were, all crowded together, making a trimming for the crown. They did not rise a whole inch above the hat, and there was no nod to them, but, oh! how pretty they were! The panne cloths are sheer, so that you can see your fingers through them. Veil- ing, you will exclaim as you see them, but the salesman will show you the sheen and will say, ‘“Panne.” In buying your dinner gown or your street gown don’t, dear woman of 1902, economize. Try to purchase the beautiful things and let the purse take care of itself. Awful counsel, this, but advice FRED Si1,1¢ Nowvy NVAIST 3 ':\E ITILW PANNE SHL.KKS MADE INTO = THA T APPEAR that can be pardoned coming from one who has spent the day look- ing at new marerials ana studying new styles. The word economy has been left out of the note book of the im- porters, and one goes hunting for it In vain in the domestic economy of the native establishments. Yet there is a ray of light and soms hope to be gained in a study of the pres- ent modes, for, though they are fabu- lously expensive—$500 for a gown, when you want to make $500 last a whole year— yet the imitation gowns, as they may be called, are so excellent that you forgive them for not being the real. “Imitation” Gowns. To go back to dinner gowns. A dinner dress of black silk tissue, really very ex-. persive, embroidered in hanging trim- mings of cut steel, jet, turquoise and gun metal, an embroidery that cost $25 per yard, was exactly imitated by a woman with only §25 to her name in a cheap mousseline de sole and in imitation tur- quoise and little steel, gun metal and sil- ver ornaments, costing not over a dollar a handful. To be sure, there were holes in the “gems,” and some of them looked a little like mere spangles, but when she had it on the effect was very good and the thought that she had saved nearly $500 ‘was better. The best dressmakers declare that thers was never a season when women could dress upon less, but they add that this is only possible for the woman with talent in her hands and industry in her finger tips. 1t is very interesting to watch the evolu- tion of the fur coats of to-day. Yesterday PRAPE.D they were Tong, to- day they are cut oft short, and to-morrow the coat, cut up, will trim a dinner waist. A bit of Persian lamb, of the kind understood as breit- schwartz, was cut into velvety tards, no wider than a straw, and used to border the upper edges of a pair of very deep cuffs. The same fux was employed upon the edge of the vest, which was a baggy thing In chiffon, ali pouched in front, but bordered with fur, The collar was a very deep, flat thing. coming way out to the shoulders with tho very tiniest band of fur upon it, and. doubtless, if there had been fur enough left over, it would have edged the belt, which was very narrow and pushed very low. Fur lgoks quite out of place at the head (he finest and lightest Boon as you feel that over the hips, and, %o, with something of a fur girdle, with about the same amount of fur above as below the belt. It is reaching the stage again when a woman can take off her lamp shade and wear it to a par- ty. The new party skirts are of dancing length and consist of many skirts, of different lengths, or looped to look 80. They are of different colors and trimmed variously, just in ood lam shade fashion, S 2 5 Gowns for Parties, Tn “party” gewns—for the old-fashioned name has been revived—there are to be two extremes, There will be the very plain and very scant gowns, the Priscilla type, and the fluffy one, In the same co~ tillon one will see the girl I turquoise panne with her skirts hugging her hips end nething but plainness noticeable, dancing elbow to elbow with the fluffy skirted girl, The latter will be a mass of ruffles, She will “cascade™ around the feet and her skirts will be short enough to allow her to trip the light fantastie without coming out & bed of rags, The trying part will come, not upon the edge of her gown, but upon the sides, for the weight of the embroideries and the garnitures will pull down the chiffons and make them tear, Not even grena. dines, those tough stuffs, will withstand the strain put upon them and you will find them pulling apart just when they ought to stay whole—and just where the holes show most—upon the hips. One black dancing frock i a necessity with every woman. It is a gown upon which she can fall back, If invited out much, and the styles are planned in such wise that she can by making a certain few changes {n it wholly aiter its appear- ance. Young girls consider it very smart te own one black evening gown, and they dance in it, quite reveling In the noveity. The accepted thing is a skirt in black lace trimmed with embroldery and jets or gems over a skirt of black. The all- black effect must be preserved, except for the glitter of the trimmings. A Washington Frock. A gown warn by a Washington girl at i r dance was in Jeweled em- broidery of any ki The skirt was made over another skirt, the second one of bl of a lace flounce, hut ity saftnees hoon rec. onciles it to s position, A little group of fur talis upon the shoulder of a Iace walst and occurring in the very middle of a chou of duch- €SS Was seen upon an evening bo- edmf; and & bunch of tails ornament- fl.ollnc..a upper part of a deep laca arrow fur dands ca: n be employed upon of gowns, and as spring is abroad 1 the land then get out your old fur cuant @r your worn-in-spots collar—and The girl who slipped her mu;‘“oegli her head and worse it as a bolero Uives in New York. A fur bolers mink, too, was seen at an after- noon affalr when the wearer Was gowned in brown cloth the color of the mink. The bolero was with- out sleeves or shoul- black filet lace. A third blac the undermost one, was of black ta a. Black peau de sole s altogether too som- iT 1S AFaD TO WEAR ALL RN UPON THE 21C re &5 V! b NN E R -COVWig OF gy s ber for a dancing gown, but mousseling Ge soie is very much in favor. ders and was the same afi around, excep? that it-had little clasps down the middle of the front. Strange to say, though called a bolero, it was pulled low, almost Continued on Page Sixteen.