The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 13, 1901, Page 3

MME., POUYANNE THE SUNDAY CALL ARIS has sent over her seml-annual d of bandboxes. Have you seen what is in them? If you haven't it is about time that you did. for most hats are com- mencing (o look like the last rose of sum- mer, and mehow, ar is not conducive to comfort But the winter hats! They are simply dreams, that is all there is about it. Quite the loveliest things you ever saw. And, really. most everything seems to be fashionable as long as it is not smalls But that i{s an unpardonable error. Get a cartwheel, put a feather, a few ai- grettes or a pompon on it, and it is ~ Bound to look swell. ply non est. The pattern hats are very apt to look a wee bit theatrical, but extremely at- tractive withal. A very beautiful even- ing hat is made of blue panne velvet. Just a large frame draped entirely with the panne, and a large full feather that measures a yard and three-quarters laid softly about the brim. There {sn’'t an- other thing on it, not a buckle. nor evan a pin; in fact, the feather Is its cnief beauty, and anything would detract from it. s it is a typleal Florodora hat, and Paris certainly ought to know. Another evening creation is made of white tulle. To relleve the monotony of the soft stuff, white chenille alternates in rows and lends a little stiff- ness. d with black panne velvet. One side rolls completely over the crown and fastens in the center of it with a large rhinestone capsion. A vard and a quarter white plume leaves its hiding place from under the roll and circling the brim takes refuge on the opposite side. It is a most curious hat to pick up and glance at casually. Which Is the front and which is the back Is a question In one’s mind. Naturaily the black roll is sclected as the baclk, just because it turns up so suddenly, but In reality that is the side, The feather is supposed to fall over and soften tace, and it fuilfills its pa of the contract. But the trouble with both of these hats is that they require handsome gowns. An ordinarily pretty frock would look very common, and the hgt itself would lose some of its juisite daintiness, An old favorite, the Napoleon, has re- turned with increased vigor. They are here in every conceivable color, but the prettiest are of blue, When the brim i3 is made of chenille appliqued with span- gles a eplendid effect is produced. The crown is ordinarlly made of blue tulle. To supply & contrast the brim is outlined with black velvet, and there is a large black velvet rosette with a capsion on the very front. This Napoleon, by the way, is new in one respect. It has only four Small hats are sim- ris corners, whereas those used in the time of his august majesty had five. Most of new hats turn off the face. R poleon*turns off abruptly, the Flo- t an angle of about fort ¢ Pujol rolls genti even the very be. ading the eyes. perhaps you do not ion is. It is a French ent, and a very fetching one at To be exact, it looks like a ball of diamon One half the ball is tucked the trimming, but the other half makes up for lost time by glimmering and sparkling for all it is worth. In each cap- what a cap: * = Posed by Belle Thorne, Orpheum. Hair Dressing, F Smporium Parlors. Photos b ‘ Hats, Mrs. Gage, 807 Sutter Street. | sion there are about one hundred rhine- stones, and as they are set individually in white metal, what luster they shown to the best advantage. The rhinestones make a pretty contrast against the ha Somebody dt the pompadour was going out, but with the hats off the face they are more stylish than ever. The head of the Emporium hair-dr ing parlors says that the hair is not popular low, but these hats demand that-the snace at the back of the neck be filled, the hats are off the face and the broad brim at the back gives an ex- ceedingly awkward appearance. Black and white still continue to be fashionable, and when was it not con- sidered swell looking? One of Madame Pouyanné's hats is of the two colors. The entire hat is made of ribbon about an inch wide. ch piece is put on slightly gath- ered, and increases until the wide brim is reached. The linine is the same, so the gathered effect is carried out in the en- tire hat. The only trimming on it is some extra long sweeping black and white aigrettes. It takes about ten of them to make any kind of a showing where they are used as the only trimming. They sweep from one side across to the other, where a few. of them are lightly tacked so as to hold them in place. The only other touch of color is added by a capsion which hides the rough ends of the aigrettes. It Is an exceedingly simple hat, but very, very swagger looking. Velvet is to be .worn a great deal’in hats, but a soft French felt is more fash- jonable and consequently more expensive. The very soft, limp felt is decidedly scarce here as it is all imported directly from Paris, The stiff ones fail to look the same, but there are two very good substitutes. One is a heavy broadcloth called ‘“‘scratch s more woolly and is made over run through it at ‘e itched, and the other gl i/ fe & frame regular it a lit ¥ One reason of i Chenille and tne soft wires arity sudden po; that it does not spot like velv c as well as ever. Fur an two is m combined two. A smart hat is one of black velvet and gray tulle. There is fold upon fold alter- nating, one black velvet and the next gray tulle. The frame is perfectly round and the rows follow one another until they suddenly commence on baby tabs that rest over the back of the hair. The facing of the Lat black velvet, and it ith real Arabian lace. The ef- lovely and one greatly appre- v everybody, but particularly by s of beautiful and rare lace. ace, by the way, seems to be used very little excepting when it is combined with fur. The other soft trimmings are either chiffon or tulle, and both are very per- ishable. Taffeta is not as soft or as graceful, and fails utterly on a swagger hat. Panne, felt and feathers are just about the proper thing, but the way they are put together makes all the difference in the world. Silver tinsel appliqued on black velvet makes a showy hat. A round brim liber- ally covered with the glittering stuff Jooks well with any kind of an evening gown, and any afternoon frock, in fact. One of the new soft, fluffy pompons is added to give height. These pompons are going to be extremely fashionable, and probably very much run into the ground in consequence. The os- trich ones are by far the prettiest and the best, but there are others made in a variety of material. Black and white mixed, or either one color or the other, are in the lead. On plain felt walking hats taffeta is used in what we used to call a rosette, but the edges are frayed a trifle and the silk falls in a free fashion. Brown is going to be used somewhat in millinery. One of the Paris models is a large brown shape turned up.on one side. The entire crown of the hat is covered with a large bird. The lining is made of the new ostrica trimming. It resembles tiny ostrich fcathers—just the smallest imaginable ones. In reality the trim- ming comes by the vard and is a little over an inch wide. The other colors, pink and a pale castor, are used as-a drape, and where the hat rests on the head is a large crushed bow of the old-fashioned Persian ribbon. Each and every hat that bears the real Parisian stamp is well worth giving minute attention. It {s a mystery how so many, many hats can be turned out and not one of them look the least bit like any other. It certainly is an art, and Paris has quite perfected it. n be turned and twisted and yet look lace seem to be popular, but the are not combined alone. A’brown fur wde up with ecru lace and baby pink roses. The flowers rest against the fur and the lace falls gracefully over the LOUISE PUJOL