The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 5, 1901, Page 3

ET a Paris modiste and a New York together and there s that the Paris- get hold of an t comes to dress-making. This is to tradition: we ¥ n the way of supposing that t es thought there v the world as She says no. specimen of us ding’s figure is typically a New bullt with the big s come to be our national ts golf and wheeling ssing. She is distinguished r in being more slen- re as Gibson draws his Given her, you can what Paris art has ac- photo shows a rose pink silk h point de Venise lace. It is but the waist big covered w two parts, THE SUNDAY CALL. Photo by Alisky. | | Jeaa— ] line is concéaled as much as possible to The give the effect of a princess gown. lace is draw belt, so that at a short di eems to be no belt = Ruffie uron rufile of ishes the low neck, fal in billows ovi the bodice and shoulders. The same chif- fon flounces the skirt and forms the train. It also edges the sleeves, falling as pink chiffon fin- ar as ng has a fad for what she s”; on this gown they are made of velvet ribbon, wired to stand spiderwise the left shoulder. Another sprawls on the front of the skirt. They are very stunning in their contrast with the delicate pink. calls “tarant black on The 1k is another spider-trimmed gown. Its spiders are of velvet of the same shade as the silk. Lilac chiffon )3 /// N = % forms the flounces and ruffles on the jice. e silver embroidery on this gown is > most stunning thing about it. It in great starfish designs over the t of the t; it trails around over it forms the belt and borders irt with this costume is of e back ¢ pointed overs (he hat worn irred chiffon. Big puffs of the on trim it and its streamers are of t me. Long sy of lilac blossoms, 1l e gh to be dewy and fragrant, trail the left side of the hat, which is tornet than hat. abont mcore The black costume is of silk crepe, tucked all over. The tucks are about a half-inch in width. They run on the blas in frent, giving a dip effect where they mecet and so fulfilling the season’s de- mands. The same bias tucks meet on the bedice. Two pleatings of black chiffon edge the skirt. Yoke and sleeves are of tucked chiffon, with zigzag insertions of black chantilly. The stock matches, and a pretty neck and \re You a “Bu Buffalo? If not, you must tely. That is, the inside of To be a Buf- ze in New York nd it nciscans are a s need- is secret soc the bitter with the sweet, s it seems to join of Buffaloes, there are surprises just side of initiation. n to be a Buffalo?” he suggests e of their number. He 1 to never mind, but say Then he adds a few reassuring, hat ambigt remarks and in order to under- when = m it would be necessary to join the sc for “mum” is certainly the watchw f your merciless friend (?) y 1" is your brave de- Cis ur boiling oil. What leads you to believe ing in the world. 11 cents and, of course, yc “Wait a moment till 1 get : s.” You see ing about the club with an ex his heels that baf- fles description and yet you cannot help wondering he is so dead anxious to have all of his frien tion. Then, too, wh in his eye? ous. I'm nc a feminine your province, on the scene of ac- means that twinkle you are not curi- saying that, for curiosity is age and entirely out of we are told, but in this case you simply wish you knew. When your iriend returns with all the club fellows av: ble on short notice you venture another question, only to be told that it is yours “not to reason why,” and Of course you straightway determine to do and die and be a Buffalo; for it would never do to be identified as a Mr. Fraid 'e Daresn’t, or to be numbered among the hopeless im- possibles. You now called upon in the pres- ence of this willing assembly to produce the requisite 11 cents. Eleven dollars would be nearer your size. It would be a mistake to suppcse that you, dear sir, have anything smaller about you than a golden 3 At any rate you draw one from your pocket, whereupon every man in the crowd becomes convulsed with de- light. You fail to see the humor of the situation, but your friends do not seem to care for that; far from it. Thelr sole st is in seating themselves comfort- after which they proceed to order champagne with a freedom that is start- ling, especial you are being told that you are to “stand for everything,” including the laughs, which appear to be coming your way; for it is one of the un- written laws of this modern order of united Buffaloes that when a new-fledged member pays his initiation fee there shall be no change forthcoming, but that the difference between 11 cents and the coin tendered by the applicant for membership shall belong to the Buffalo who initiates him, to be appropriated as the spirit moves him in oifering the happy onlookers the cup that cheers—and a good brand in the bargain. You decide to make the best of it, and are planning the fun you can have initi- ating your untried friends when a toast is offered by one of the merry members. You clink your glass in true Afnerican fashion and are about to drink when the others call “Buffalo.”” The wise waiter hastens to the spot like the veritable ad- juster of insurance companies at an alarm of fire. One friend explains that you have violated a rule of the order in drinking ffalo?”’ { with your right hand and can only rein- state yourself Iy ordering another round of drinks for the crowd, which you lose no time in doing. By this time you insist upon being en- lishtened as to all the ins and outs. If your initlating friend is at all' generous he explains the several rules to you. If he omits one, however, the misfortune is for ignorance is no excuse for a 0. If you depart from one law of | the order and get caught at it by a fellow Buffalo, you can only pay the penalty by supplying liquid refreshments for every one present. Two Buffaloes must greet each other by. shaking the left hand, while you strike a pugilistic attitude with the right, as though threatening to land a fatal upper- cut on the opposite but erstwhile smiling jaw. One of the rules compels you to carry a copper cent in a convenient pocket to pro- duce when called for by a fellow member. Another calls for “sobriety and silence,” but this is a rule in name only, for even the most optimistic Buffaloes are striking this out of the by-laws for the sake of substituting “‘something easy.” To become a Calf is the highest degree of the order, but do not be too ambitious, for this happy state is rarely attained. You learn that the sign of the Buffalo is the left hand over the left ear. Then you master the distress signal and you may start out for new flelds to conquer for the fun of the Buffalo cause. As to the origin of this popular order there is a difference of opinion—a differ- ence as far as the east is from the west; for Boston is positive that the honor is hers, wnile Los Angeles aspires to the same distinction. I{ is supposed by many that the city of Buffalo started the craze, but this is erroneous, for several Eastern cities were enjoying it before the prospec- tive expositionists even heard of the or- der. b -+ e, 27 7 Eest authority points to the members of the Beefsteak Club as the instigators of the Buffalo plot. This information is corfirmed by Mr. George S. Adams, an officer of the Alder Spears’ Sons Co., 100 William street, New York City. Mr. Adams is a well known New Yorker of best social standing, besides being highly connected in large business interests. He is also a Beefsteaker, and, while at the Palace Hotel in this city a few weeks ago took great pleasure in putting his acquaintances in touch with the Buffalo end of the steak. The Beefsteak Club was started as a side issue of the Crescent Athletic Club of New York, a circle within a circle, in- cluding the same members in both. Now, when the small end of their steak began to have a sameness about it, which palled upon their would-be athletic tastes, they turned to Buffalo tactics in order to whet their appetites. They are all good fellows and Buffaloes and claim credit for the happy thought. 1If San Francisco did not start the craze she certainly has made good use of the “Buffalo” precedent since it came along. It was only a few weeks ago that Miss Josephine Gassmann appeared at the Or- pheum in a vaudeville sketch, introduc- ing some of the blackest of pickaninnies. “Are you & Buffalo?’ she asked of one H N@ AND of them, and ths few who saw a point laughed within an inch of their lives. Now this was all the wide-awake au- dience needed to warrant an investiga- tion. Hydraulic pressure is entirely su- perfluous to apply to San Francisco minds. They are, therefore, finding out for themselves, one at a time, even if it does cost them something. . Judge Conley of Madera County Iis probably having more fun out of the fad than any one else on the Pacific Coast. He makes a business of initiating people and has become a ready solicitor for the Buffalo cause. He approaches a friend with all the confidence of a life insurance man and announces: § “I am now chief exalted ruler of the Order of Buffalo Brothers with power to make you a life member. I take pleas- ure in pronmouncing you eligible. You simply pay me 11 cents and I'll do the rest.” ‘When a silver dollar is handed to the benign Judge he accepts it with a smile of such glittering brightness as would put the shining dollar to shame. Then; with a graceful sweep of the hand, he deposits the money in his pocket without mentioning the matter of change; and when the new Buffalo asks for it, Judge Conley suddenly looks surprised and an- swers: “Oh! there won't be any. Let's all have something on the new member. It's a Buffalo on him.” The Judge took a day off a fortnight ago and came to San Francisco for the sole purpose of initiating his friends. By evening he was very tired, said it was a hard day's “work,” but well worth while and that he had not handled so much morey in one day for a long time. Judge Conley has his own way of in- spiring the applicants to offer large pleces of silver for their initiation fees, which leaves him large margins with which to treat the cheerful bystanders. When he initiated one of San Francisco’s best- known citizens, the new member ten- dered him thr:2e nickels nearest at hand, but these were declined by the ambitious Judge. “If you will excuse me I'll not accept them, ot't of courtesy and respect to the departed Willlam Jennings Bryan. As chief exalted ruler of a society which ob- serves the fine points of life, I insist upon silver for the sake of Bryan. I will take gold, however.” 2 He got it, thanks to his wiles. Had ex- actly 11 cents been offered, however, the Judge would have been obliged to accept it (he being the soul of honor), even arme are given a chance to show them- hetr best cverely simple in destgn seives =t The gown and would be dowdy on any but a good is figure. 8 The hat for it is a Paris creation. made of pleats of white ilusion, round and round, each pleat edged with a read of gold. A broad black velvet buckled with jet and two sweeping Tt s sewed tiny bow Liack ostrich plumes compiete the outside. It is on inside, the little tuck a- way nooks and half-seen places that the Parisian always lets Ua- derneath thi two-toned silk fac and pink. Close against the folds lie three roses, gold-of-ophir roses, that shade like the silk between gold and pink. The foulard is the perfect shade of blue that you see once in a while in an April sky and not once in a thousand times om a silk counter. It is in one of the new showy designs, black and white linked spirals and very large ones. White chif- fon forms the flounces and borders the short sleeves—they are only elbow length. The gown is made with an adiustable guimpe of white lace. This gives high or low neck, as vou like. It is a very sensi- ble style to adopt for those of us who do not cmploy a special car for our trunks. From a knet of black velvet ribbon cm the bust harg long streamers of the same. notice th: are not finished Miss Redding, in large “Please h spikes,” sa capitals. A white folded chiffon hat completes the costume. It is a hat with a crown, for crowns are with us once more. A wide black velvet bow, a knot of chiffon, a gold buckle and pink roses trim it. The costume which Miss Redding brought back from Paris with the most triumph is the brocade. The cause of her triumph is that the gown was made .for Helen of Montenegro, now Queen of Italy; so this is in reality a Queen’s gown that they e robes which Fe- e royal lady's or- There were six of th lix had completed s der when she all of a sudden had to go into mourning. This threw them back on Felix's hands and he thereupon put them on exhibition in the Paris Exposition as examples of nineteenth century dress- making art. One of the lot was labeled “La Soli- taire.” Miss Redding’s curiosity was ex- cited by this and she inquired the reason. The explanation was that it was the only one that was nowhere trimmed with black velvet. This fact took her fancy. She likes things that are unique. So she negotiated for the dress, found that it fitted her with scarcely an alteration, and she brought it away with her. The silk ground is covered with a trail- ing design of what appear to be pink bluebells. At intervals upon this ground are hand-embroidered leaves. They are woodbine leaves still in the intense green that they wear In the early season. Light green chiffon flounces the skirt and fin- ishes the sleeve. An odd thing is the wa: that tiny bands of it are shirred into ropes, yards upon yards, that are draped across the bodice and wired into a “spi- der” on the shoulder. Looped strings of pearis cover the front of the bodice. Have You Ever Eaten Living Honey Bottles? LATE traveler in New Mexico had A for his dessert a unique dish. It was like, yet unlike, so many am- ber colored cherries, each with a most peculiar stem. Doubtful, yet polite, he put one between his teeth, and was surprised to find that the little sac contained a honey-like Hquid. “I see this fs your first acquaintance with the honey ant,” said his host. “He flourishes with us, but does not get up to your Northern climes. I believe Colorado is his Hmit.” Then, in answer to the question on his guest's face, he gave the following little history: “The honey ant is a small red insect, living in rounded mounds, or, in some cases, In low heaps extended over an area from twenty to thirty feet square. He is most industrious, like others of the ant family. Indeed, he works day and night. g iHis food is a sweet, syrupy fluid, gathered from galls, those curious enlargements of growth on trees and plants. “With this he fills his body, and as, unlike his cousin the bee, he has not add- ed the making of vessels for food storage to his other accomplishments, he supplies the deficiency in a novel and interesting manner. In other words, he uses for this purpose the larger individuals of his own species. “The liquid food is forced into the crops of these selected ones, each foraging trip adding to the supply, until these crops, which nature has covered with plates that can spread apart as reeds arises, have reached their limit of distention. “The living bottles, or receptacles, are now practically helpless. They are not neglected by their companions, however. A dark room is built for their accommo- dation, and here they cling to the ceil- ing, receiving additions to their stores or supplying focd for the hungry workers. The people in this part of the country esteem the honey ant a delicacy. We use it for our desert as you use grapes or currants.” —————— The chemical odors and artificial ether- eal olls of German manufacture have greatly injured the French flower fleld though such an instance would have | industry, as the prices for the artificial compelled him to stand the expense of the liquid refreshments. odors are much less than those of the natural ones.