The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 21, 1900, Page 2

THE SUNDAY CALL. MrwHITE TAFFETA || TR APPLIQUE J o BLACK VELVET |/ WAISTS FROM .CITY OF PARIS PHOTOS FROM VAVGHAN . .&.KEITH o POSES BY IDA EVERETT OF THE ALLAZAR I “A REY SATIN WITH TVCKS AND REAL LASE ) l NACH season some one in the realm of fashion, some one who | loves long unbroken lines and whose artistic bump is jarred by the hybrid combination—a waist of one color and a skirt of another—declares that the reign of the shirt waist is over, that it has seen its best day and 1s a thing of the past. But it is not so. Separate waists are here and are here to stay. A woman can make too creditable a showing with one skirt and four or five odd waists ever to give them up. They appeal to the economical side of the pocketbook and to solid comfort too strongly ever to lose their dominion over feminine hearts. Materials for the separate waists vary. Persian velvet and the new soft satin are very popular, crepe de chine, taffeta, mous- seline de soie, liberty silk and rare lace are used and are combined with every imaginable trimming. Bands of wvelvet, frillings, shir rings, tuckings and mousseline de soie play an important part in the making of the bodice. The tucked bodices are very much worn A pretty one can be fashioned of crepe de chine, tucked from belt to throat in horizontal tucks, the tucks decreasing in size as they reach the waist line. Black stock and belt with jet or a soft collar of chiffon complete this simple waist. This is a spangle scason. Sequins, fets, steel and silver glis- ten on the bodices and at night shine like diamonds and are exceed- ingly becoming. She who has gypsy blood in her veins and loves the glitter of gold and silver may spangle her waists to her heart’s content. White taffeta with silver trimming on lace is very dainty. The boleros of applique witly steel or silver and collar and belt to match make a bodice of simple cut most attractive. Gold braid, black velvet and gold sequins finished with a collar and belt of gold and jet make a beautiful theater waist and one to delight the heart of its wearer. . About the skirts to be worn with these separate waists. Every woman knows that it is poor economy to wear the skirt of a gown in this way, as the waist is usually new when the skirt is quite worn out. It is sometimes a pussle to know just what material to get for a separate skirt. For. any and every occasion the skirt of black satin, velvet or silk is suitable, with the preference for silk as it wears better. The plainer the skirt, that is the straighter the lines, the better. A much-trimmed skirt is exceedingly poor taste as well as poor economy. For home wear or half evening dress a white satin skirt is pery pretty and stylish. It demands for its waist one of a pale light color and made of light, fluffy materials. These skirts are not as exiravagant as one would think. White satin 1is not so expensive and it stays clean as long as any other white material and is much easier to clean. Blue is perhaps the color of the moment. Not the cold pearl blue, but the warm sunset blue which is quite yellowish, and the inir. ror blue which shows so many colors. Sapphire blue is very popular and its trimming i$ stecl. The combination of blue and steel gives a silvery effect which is par- ticularly pretty at night. Silver, steel and jet paillcttes glisien on the gowns as well as on the waists. ?ngflpN SILK WITH BLASK STRIPE