The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 19, 1899, Page 28

UE SAN ¥RANOISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 19, 1899. Rt ch dh g b b S S S SR S P SPUPAPE S=HERE are all the detatled descrip- || tlons of opera gowns given el fi where that even the most exact- could demand. But here are a few generalities that can be re- uced from fashion as seen thus re opera. k and w Why? cut decolle For onl are the most effective > they stan when snowy throat and e they pret If you hig’ d gown chocse a color, hoose wisely and tI ice. a gown of brillis may turn h when next to a that_does xiotharmo Oor a de -like 1t may fad when bjected to unkir with a hboring hue Remember that daggers a shade t st for our next neigh they shall wear, th own color £ tunately it is not ble of holding it If could opera W too late find a pink gown ne each ¢ other opera in decollete, varied by spangles not b d sort of ROWT own salvati which kills > sheath- draped skirt upper- he flow skirt its own 1 kirts d wi r ribbon H1ds s were 15 pop- but evidentl here popu evident med trimming of ten -cut span- may give t col All r of those : NEW IDEAS IN + +to make up t 4And when the weather is cold 4-8ray be imagin 4+ trasts are avoided in blous 4-eminently sr +is trimmed with +black material d out f not, they are of billowy masses of OMEC of the Wlost Stunning Sowns at the UPCra Five shades of gray Bo s harmony. Five shades of gray seem a great many, but first there is the pearl gray cloth of phony in gray. +which the gown is made. The chic little oteel gray velvet. The cape cape is of e s of braided velvet in a has broad la +iovely dove color. 4+ When the cape files open It displays a vest of iron gr: sured velvet. Then there is the hat wate aluminum gray with soft shaded gray feathe he tucks her band in a muff of deep silver fox Could a more charming combination of ot % HE high blouse is made of lght- s solored silk, chiffon or sequined net. 5 S worn for an Informal afternoon oreoncert wear, Strong con- T nd to be must never be worn less the blouse itself ith art the with a black skirt blous rned vpe of blouse can be h empire knots of l\v ght colo vet, or with large trailing bows in which jeweled brooches v be placed. A beautiful bic a_ combind of ream white ch and white em- videred with juins, and the jts of dahlia velvet with bright are now tons. These ed on blouses ol el ived, and women are serfous consideration in The paste iargely u 1ges have al them int orde ng and summer gowns. T re companied by a novelty. The novelty is that the new fringes look like a new kind of silk lace. The threads are thickly crowded to- he soft, crumpled ect, howev - telling, and will rim most satisfactorily as well as smartly. a long and I her in the o el §fEWELED walking ” e ux;-»nlgl'.)\w to which lady of fashion.walking in the West End g the with - in her hand, according to a paper, is not a new sight, to be a fashion which is be- g a rather extravagant one, judg- from the richness of the cane heads, been seen incrusted some of which hav e with jewels. The wearing of wigs 1Is also : o greater extravagance # head- becoming more elaborate -mselves to greate s and richly deco- m rated combs. craze for wavy hair, heedless of th of the use of hot tongs, which -4 such a havoc air t hair dressers ) create wigs for their s taking very kindly r much time is saved. it in all the picturesque \borate headdress without urs under, the hands of the rdresser, for wigs, dressed on block: afterward placed on their heads. 5wt lowers are high in favor, set in great hes with their foliage on one side of »and as the spring advances we more and_more of the flower toq Toques made entirely of violets, which in France go by the name of Nice hats, will again appeal to an almost cer- tain favor, for they are most becoming. Some of the new hats are very coquettis! and some are extravagant in shape. How- ever, I am preparing to give you, when the time is rip a full and eloouent dis- course as to what is to be and what is not to be in the world of millinery. mousseline with black tulle shirred over it. The sleeves were made in the same anner, giving a most beautiful effect. women! en forced lady cust to the new They can ffects of an m 0004000»¢¢0¢¢00¢0¢6¢¢0§64‘¢04§00#4##0 OPERA GOWNS : )PP OOTETEEWEE A Al s women know == HAT San Fr w to dress is opening n Melba was gowns worn nd, and to immediately f the fashionable establishmer to herself. Instead neisco women 1 with home creations, nd lovely gowns re by our own dress- most de right I ibtedly three of the most stunning were worn during the week by ) Tobin, her tall and graceful figure and splendid carriage lending an Al charm. The foundation of the gown worn on the first might of the opera was heavy white skirt was made perfectl ser the hips and half way it flared out all around in ul lines and terminated in a additic iong train. ite satin skirt was covered with kirt of tulle trimmed with accor- ated ruches. The bodice of white decollete and filled in with s0ft te tulle. She wore long white glo s and no sle autiful gown worn by Mrs. & of pineapple mousseline dc sole. skirt o mousseline was perfectly tight, long, plain and flaring at the bottom. The over drapery was of nar- Yow pink chiffon rufiles. The bodice was of moussell with shirred pink chiffon forming a yoke. The long mousquetaire cleeve was made of the chiffon, with the m showing th i Two graceful {fton flounces extending from the top the band finished the sleeve. & was finished with a high taf- r and the walist with a n‘dl’l'ur';: fe elt. Another whil gown wo: )‘.‘:I'.\x‘;s,}:nl\‘hin ‘was a magnificent affair of Dhite spangled chiffon made over a tat- e foundation. The full flounced chiffon skirt was trimmed in tiny spangled .ruchvs forming lovers knots. The bodice ,“ s I ared with the chiffon, with the lovers knots over it in smaller de Th eves were of chiffon in th quetaire shape. The collar w of lu(’kr‘tl eta and the belt was made of spangles. r exquisite white gown W worn Wa r Hobart. The mater! glistenin, ni satin, (‘lo'gall(l}' med in white :«ymm:h‘q tulle. The s the new tight-fitting skirt, per- ain around th b , with a de- all around the lower part, »d in white tulle and eveless and < and elegantly pangle trimming. orn by Mrs. \ffeta covered with The skirt was made and tilled in rows with ot faby ribbon. The bodice fitted tooth, and on one shoulder emashing cerise velvet rose. v were very long mousquetaire She net with the arm showing <} sotly ed flare = ch was_applic Shangles. The bodice W out decollete, tight fittl appliqued in_the silver Another elegant & Jiobart wes of white black throushy. H. de Young wore a stunning Ire. N of black spangles and tulle. The ¢ black The neck was filled in Cn of tulle and the gled tulle. Like all bodices it f: ened down the S skirt of black silk, with accor- . leated ruffles around the bottom to g B roper flare, was entire covered Bl L overdrapery of black-spangled Tith an e in turn was trimmed with Hounces of spangled tulle.. The belt was Aoun e w spangied one. Her ornaments “were diamonds, lnksuikmg contrast with he glitte black. LA\I'E-I;”;w’:'Il:‘fim- obin wore a fetching of furquoise pineapple mousseline eta af the same shade. Around iv’a deep flounce of turquoise Secordion pleated, finished at the ‘ith a spangled band. The eut low and made perfectly With a dainty spangled chif- ver the bust. The sKirt was dith o narrow spangled belt. Mrs. J. C. Tubbs' gown of white moire with safin figures in it was greatly ad- yrired. The low-cut bodice was covered With white lace studded n little gold D > The bodicc was full and opened down the front, which was filled_in with littie Tuches of gauze ribbon. The beit was narrow and gold spangled. The sicrt was of tbe moire, with a panel eifect in front formed of the goid-spangled lace. While tight-fitting at the top it flared ‘out in a_graceful train at the bacl. Mrs. Edson Adams, considered by some k. the handsomest weman at the opera Monday evening, wore a pale green ffeta_ gown. Tha low-cut bodice was covered completely with ruches of tulle, lged with narrow green baby ribbon and shed around the waist with a narrow et belt in the new apple green shade. > skirt was plain _and tight-fitting, with a deep quilling of tulle edged with green ribbon around the bottom. Miss Gertrude Carroll was most be- comingly gowned in a pink tulle, and, ag an admiring man remarked, she looked like a fluffy duchesse rose. The gown was made very clinging down to just below the kne when it flared out all around and terminated in a demi-train. The skirt of chenille dotted tulle was covered with flower designs made of pink moire ribbon, while the bottom was trimmed with three graduating ruffies of accordion-pleated mousseline, short in front and extending half way up the back. These ruffles gave the skirt an extremely full flare 11 around the bottom and the effect wa utiful. The bodice was cut low and draped in effect with a bertha made of an applique flower design on the eline. A narrow beit of the same finished the walist. One of the most elaborate gowns was worn by Miss Grace Hecht. It was made of princess mousseline over white taffeta. In the mousseline were woven pink moss rosebuds, shading from a dark to a light pink and form large clusters to extreme- v small ones. The skirt was further or- namented with a handsome applique, vhich was in to give a panel effect’ The gown w; severely princesse. and with her beautiful figure was exceedingly striking. & Mrs. T. W. Wcodford wore a_beautiful creation of pervanch bengaline. The skirt one of the new flaring skirts, was_deco. rated with an embroidery of silver begin- ning at the top of the skirt on one side of the front and extending down to the bottom and finishing the skirt all around. The_bodice of the blue was embroidered in the new honiton braid and silver. The back was cut in a pointed effect, with the point extending upward, a decidedly new effect, and in front the bodice closed to the left in a flower effect. A beautiful gamp of mousseline embroidered in silver finished the bodice. The sleeves. made of mousseline, were long and clinging. Mrs. C. F. A. Talbot wore a pink and green brocade gown. The walst was low and was entirely covered with jeweled lace in the opal tint The gamp and sleeves were of shirred mull. The skirt was perfectly plain and tightfitting. show- ing to advantage the handsome pattern of the brocade. Mrs. William Whittier wore a ravishing gown of nale blue satin embroidered in silver spangles and rhinestones. The small spangles—similie, as the French call -m—were worked into beautiful flower igns over the skirt and bodice. The skirt was finished with embroidery of simille to form long narrow panniers, while around the bottom s a ruche of deep blue mousseline finished with rhine- gtone embroldery. The jeweled bodice was cut low and off the shoulders and was finished with a narrow spangled belt. Mrs. J. Downey Harvey wore a cream vhite gown of the beautiful new material ealled mousseline princesse. The founda- tion skirt of taffeta was finished with a flounce of the same, and the over drapery of mousseline princesse was finished with two wide flounces, accordion pleated, of the same, over which hung a flounce of real lace Spangled in mother of pearl. The high-necked waist was tight fitting,the real lace forming a bodice edged with mousseline puffs. The sleeves were of the Shirred mousseline, showing the arm through. Mrs. Gordon Blanding wore an elegant white and black costume. The skirt was of black satin, tight fitting around the hips. with_the new flare below. The bod fee swas of white satin covered with ac- cordion pleated mousseline de princesse, br which was a blouse of black spangled acy net made of white guipure and steel beads. The sleeves and collar were of white satin. Mrs. Irvine wore a handsome brocade appliqued over gray chiffon with a ber- {ba formed of spangled white tulle and an embroldered Medici collar. The skirt ivas a handsome plain one of the brocade. The sleeves were tight-fitting and ended in @ flarc over the hands. With this ele- gant costume were worn coral ornaments. Mme. Rilloni-Zifferer appeared in two beautiful gowns during the opera. One, of violet brocade, was made with the skirt embroldered in designs of very narrow baby ribbon and applicue lace. The bot- tom of the skirt was finished with a triple Tuffie of mousseline edged with baby rib- bon. The low-cut bodice was trimmed in the same chic manner. Another gown worn by Mme. Zifferer was of black tulle. The overskirt of tulle as trimmed in several wide accordion- pleated fiounces of the . same material, While the front formed a Fa.nel upon which were little ruches e In lovers' knot designs. The low-cut bodice was filled in with a handsome gamp of white ered chiffon in lavender and gray. upper portion of the gown was nier effect formed by wide bands of gray Miss Ethel Keeney wore a beautiful white figured chiffon. The bodice was cut low and was draped In graceful folds of The skirt was flowing and trimmed in chiffon flounces. s Leontine Blakeman wore a decol- 2 gown in white and silver made per- fectly plain and princesse effect: On one shoulder she wore a bunch of red roses. Miller_of Oakland wore a me biack chiffon gown made with rt and draped bodice, showing the exquisite lines of her figure. of the front and upon rows and rows of fI and was lined with' white satin. high, flaring collar shirred white chiffon. Miss Gertrude Buckley wore a smnning cloak of Marie Louise velvet trimmes with ruffles of chiffon.in light and dark It was finished with a flaring collar lined with ruchings of blue the chiffon. was made of bengaline and trimmed with dainty chiffon ruchings. On an American In her hair she wore a gray taffeta lovers’ knot ornamented with but- one shoulder beauty rose. tight-fitting, shades of blue. Miss Clara Heyman wore a Parisian gown of pink silk, over which w. pliqued Battenburg lace. with_chiffon flowers over the finishing with the Battenburg applique. Mme. Holton wore & figured grenadine skirt of gray The grenadine was in black and white with apple green figures running through The overskirt was trimmed at inter- narrow ruffles of black and white Chantilly lace, formed of the lace, which hung down in over the train. long clusters of fropn their stems The bodice was trimmed in the same manner with fon puffs running around it in serpen- The neck was finished with a_bunch of green chiffon roses A turquoise blue vi and long mousquetaire sleev lace falling over completed this beautiful The skirt was On one side the shoulder she bunches of and a black ostrich feather a foundation fan completed her stunning toilet. Mrs. C. R. Splivalo of Belmont wore a black glove: ing, finishin, buckle and clasp. of an entire white fox. Mrs, C. N. Walters wore a long white narrow in effect, arabesque border of gold and white satin. The neck was finished with a white fox. Miss Norma Bachman ful cape of velvet duchesse mouss: the entire cape made of accordion pl The collar was lined with white chiffon, with bow in front and the ends hanging to the bottom of the skirt. Mrs. Clarence Mann wore a handsome opera cape of white silk embroidered 1n The cape was finished with a rounded flaring ruffle trimmed in pleated The collar was a flaring pointed collar embroidered in gold and lined with The entire cape was lined with vellow satin. D. Ferguson wore an opera cloak of a California pol cade lined with satin o and edged with Persian lamb. Wwas long in the back and rounded off to- The collar and reveres hed at the top with #h occa slonal rosette of pink satin ribbon. waist was tight-fitting appliqued in white ace with pearl passementerie. < of the pink two long end: velyet cape, chiffon roses hanging and diamonds. gown was after a Dou- The body of the gown was a deep turquoise shade of satin. 2 white taffeta foundation small white mousseline ruf- An overskirt cut in the shape of a n front of the blue satin and end- a long narrow point in the back finish. The bodice was one sseline de sofe and it was fin- ished around the neck with a pearl lace tine effect. Gertie Mee wore a Cyrano i Renaissance was a yoke skirt, the art being formed of Cyrano pleated edged . The voke part of the skirt wa made of silver spangled tulle. fluff of mou Miss Splivalo wore a necklace of pearls and a pearl sunburst. Charles Read of Salt Lake City wore a New York gown of pale gray ben- The skirt consisted of line skirt finished at the bottom with a accordion pleated flounce, and the over drapery was an elegantly embroid- The bodice finished with the Cy- rano rose petals and silver spangles. The a cloaks worn were by far the hand- t ever seen in San Francisco. Lillian Spreckels wore a gown of gray cloth in the popular three-quarter py shade of the same shade The cape ward the front. were of ermine. Two of the Opera Gowns. “Jovely woman” at the Grand Opera. Black o r white gowns stand ical of those worn by D! is beautiful lor scheme and easily carry o ade that circumstance places next to it. These two gowns are ty] out _conspiculously pendent of the sh: it does not mar it. PSSO S SRS e e na s s R S S R R RS e Creams and Powder for the Qomplexion By Mme. OB O e e e s A black or white ff the honors. If its next-door shade does not enhance its beauty, at least ISR This department is for the glene of proper living. If any one fully answered in tnese col any name that you choose. The Sunday Call, San Francisco. For the two lines on the nose massage also, rubbing always across the Try witchhazel on the red spot on 1 can tell you of no cure for the As they are out of aizh:, 1 shouldn’t worry about them. The breatn- ing exercises and swinging Indian clubs will do more for the hollows In the shoul- ders than anything else. C. W.—For the coarse pores in your case I should advise a nightly scrubbing with a complexion brush and castile soap, massage with the orange Then in the mornin bathe the face with a lotion composed of three ounces of rosewater and one table- spoonful simple tincture of benzoin. A. B. C.—If you will pound of oatmeal in one quart of warm water over night, then straén and add one tablespoonful of lemon juice and one tea- spoonful each of olive cologne, glycerine and diluted ammonia and rub into the skin of the hands three times a day, it will, I am sure, improve their condition. The only way to reduce the fleshy parts is to massage, picking up the flesh between the thumb and fingers and rolling and pinching it as much as You can without brulsing the flesh. The simplest lotion for removing freckles is made by dissolving fifteen borax in one ounce of lemon juice. ply to the face at night after washing. Let it dry on the skin and then apply a good cold cream. There is no way of removing freckles permanently except by keeping out of the sun and wind. MARGARET MAITLAND—The essen- the two waters are So, if you prefer using rosewater in the astringent wash, do so by all means. SWERT SWEETPEA—If the face is too red for comfort it can be remedied by active pedestrianism, a well-ventilated bedroom, no tight bands or corsets and a diet of ripe pears, oranges and figs. Put the hands and feet in hot mustard Avold hot drinks, eat very slowly and be out in the open alr as much as possible. standing with the heels close together, bending over and trying to touch the floor with the tips of the fingers. if repeated number of times each morning, will often prove of wonderful benefit in re- Try i\ Sage tea, If used quite strong, will sometimes darken I cannot tell you of anything eise for that purpose, save a dye, of which I do not approve. SUNSHINE H. P.—Do not brush the hair vigorously while it is undergoing the process of shedding itself, and wear that switch as little as possible. discard It entirely? heats the scalp and is really detrimental to the growth of the hair. hang and give it a sun bath as often as T'S a fortunate thing that these are the days of comparative idleness, for what with keeping one's nose proper- Iy powdered and one's hair in curl there hasn’t been much time for any- weather of the past week has straightened out the most utifully curled tresses with a persist- that was positively heartrending. But don’t you care, girls! crops and the ‘booful” Easter bonnets that it will probably mean to you. Speaking of Easter bonnets reminds me. Now is the time of all the year when you ghould coddle your complexions. to it that the skin is well nour- powdered and shielded by a serviceable thing else. Think of the followed by flower skin food. from the March breezes chiffon veil, you will find the gorgeous beauty of that Easter head adornment most horribly embarrassed by a red lit- and weather-beaten These March winds sometimes develop into a raging, roaring tempest that can create havoc both dire and d delfcate skin. So look out for them and put in some of your spare moments during this bless- ed Lenten time that are mot devoted to sewing bees or afterno ing up some good cold crea for the complexion, so that you may be able to join in the Easter dress parade Wwith the happy consciousness that the splendor of vour toilet is not dimmed by an utterly impossible complexion. First of all you must have a good, pure If you do not happen to fave this already, here Is a formula for one that is excellent, ening the skin, on service to fluff- ms and washes Almost any sort Right here T shall have to call a halt on the requests of correspondents for replies 1 positively cannot send these, unless it is to give an address or other information that cannot be printed in the Please remember this, my news- paper friends, and do not ask for private replies where a published one will do. cold cream. tial properties not only for soft- about the same. r whiténing it as t been given before, and as cucumbers are now in market, you Wwill not have any difficulty in prepar- Cucumber Cold Cream. Almond ofl, 1 ounce. Green ofl, 1 ounce. White wax, 1 ounce. Spermaceti, 1 ounce. Juice of cucumber, 2 ounces. Essence of cucumber, 2 ounces. in the same way that you directions for Answers to Correspondents. CYTHEREA—I think all that your skin needs Is systematic massage with the Here is the formula: ceti, one-half ounce; white wax, one-half ounce; sweet almond ofl, one ounce; lano- line, one ounce; cocoanut oil, one ounce; tincture of benzoin, flower water, one ounce. ingredients water every night. Melt the first porcelain kettle. Take from the fire and add the benzoin and orangeflower water, beating with an egg beater until cold. little lines about the eyes rub away from the nose, using a circular upward and It s very difficult to would any cold which have been given many times in The juice must be ex- tracted from the cucumbers, placed in a porcelain kettle on top of the stove and bolied for one minute, then strained. The essence you can make yourself by taking one and one-half ounces of alcohol and one and one-half ounces of the boiled cu- cumber juice. If you do not happen to have a face powder that vou are perfectly sure of, make one after the following formula: Face Powder. One ounce Lubin's rice powder this department. ducing large hips. In massaging the outward motion. describe the movements in writing. 1y, the best way to learn is to Zo to a competent masseuse, let her give you a treatment or two, notice just how .he does it and then go and do likewise. Don't mind the little wrinkles that come Nearly every one has ‘when you laugh. they're jolly little them and, besides, Miss Mee's opera cloak was of black velvet, elegantly trimmed in Cyrano chif- fon and lined with pink satin. roses finished the mneck front and in the back, peeping from be- neath a pointed Medici collar, filled in with white chiffon. Mrs. Joe Tobin's opera cloak was of white brocade satin, very long and sweep- in front with a rhinestone The collar was formed Large n with an a beautl- eline; eated ro- P + + + + + O R LR R R R R e benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics ana the hy- desires information on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, One ounce best, purest oxide of zinc. One-half ounce, carbonate of magnesia, finely powdered. Twenty grains boracic acid. Two drops attar of rose. Have each one of the ingredients sep- arately powdered in a mortar before pur- chasing. Put your rice powder through a fine sieve and then through bolting cloth. Do the same thing with the oxide of zinc, the magnesia and the boracic acld before adding them to the rice powder. all are combined put twice through bolt- ing cloth. After each sifting throw away any particles that remain. Add the attar of rose last. If you wish to apply a lotion to the face before powdering that will cause the pow- der to go on more smoothly use this: Gum tragacanth, whole, 30 grains. Rosewater, 7 ounces. Glycerine, one-half ounce. Alcohol, one-half ounce. Let the tragacanth soak In the rose- water for a day or two and strain forci- bly through muslin or cheesecloth. Then add the glycerine and alcohol which have been previously mixed, shake well and perfume to sult. Now I have given you a trio of delight- ful toilet preparations. of a complexion will pick up hope under their use, which of course must be com- bined with the three great rules of beauty —diet, bathing and exercise. one-half oil, rosewater, of Ap- The exercise of Cannot you Wearing a switch Let your hair U GORIReUIIORT T UL R U Ol SO e B e e Al A A As S sancaaashaaaeesaaan The cloth was trimmed with uffy chiffon ruffles ‘The was filled in with you can. And use this tonic: Four tincture of cantharldes; one-fourth dram each of ofl of lavender and oil of rose-+ mary. Apply to the roots of the hair4 once or twice a day with a small sponge.4- ‘While using this tonic shampoo once ay week with the liquld soap, formula for which has been given many times in’ these columns. + NO. 4711, G.—Blonde hair should always4- be washed with the yolk of an egg, as. that will make it keep its golden tints, Mixing the egg with a pinch of borax it harsh and dry. ZAZA—If the growth of hair on yours face {3 too abundant to be removed by% the electric needle, why not try bleach-+ ing out the hairs with peroxide of hydro-4- gen. ‘Lo three tablespoonfuls of the per-4 oxide add one teaspoonful of ammonia. Apply twice a day the first week and then not quite so frequently. The per- oxide will bleach the hairs and make them less noticeable, and the ammonia will finally deaden the little pests. hid this treatment is not efficaclous, write to nll(‘ again and I will suggest something else. MARIE—Am very glad that you are so pleased with this uepartment. I real enjoy it myself, which is perhaps the re: son why so many of my correspondents also find pleasure in it. The gum traga- canth lotion given in to-day Beauty Talk will help your hands. It is partic larly nice for the hands, as it is quic absorbed by the skin and will not soft delicate fabrics. Treatment suggested to Sweet Sweetpea is excellent for any one afflicted with a red nose. Also apply witchhazel, followed by an application of cold cream. There is really nothing bet- ‘er to remove tan than milk in which a ttle borax has been dissolved. A pinch 7 horax to half a cupful of sweet milk ¢ the proper proportion. I do not think e milk will fatten the face any. Cocoa- itter, unless mixed with other ingredi- ts, will sometimes coax the little hairs » sprout. MISS JENNIE DELL—Last Sunday" Beauty Talk treated of the particular af- fliction which is making your life miser- able. Of course vou saw it. MISS D. PATIENCE—Your complexion is not in a healthy condition or it would not be so dry and peel off in that dis. tressing way. Better not use any soap on your face for awhile, since it will onl¥ help to remove the small quanti‘y of oil there is in the cuticle. In fact, until your skin gets into better shape I would ad- vise you to use very little water on it. Cleanse it thoroughly each night with the orange flower skin food, formula for which is given in foregoing reply to Cytherea. If this does not help you write to me again. DOTTIE D.—An occasfonal steaming of the face—say once in two weeks—will do the skin no harm. Full directions were given for steaming in last Sunday’s Beau- ty Talk. The alum h is to be u only when the skin is very flabby. A piece of alum the size of a bean in a pint of water is sufficient. Massage with the orange flower skin food will plumpen the face. Directions for massaging the little wrinkles around the eyes will be found in foregoing letter to Cytherea. I really fear that I cannot help you with the gray ounces eau de cologne; one-half oun(‘e: + and a pint of warm water is a good plan. % 1 should not advise you to use very much4 alcohol on your hair. It is apt to makey DR R hair. There is nothing but a dye that will make the white hairs the color of the rest of your hair, and this I cannot rec- ommend. I have never heard of the rec- ipe you sent me. Sage tea and alcohol is an excellent tonic, but the other in- gredient mentioned I never even heard of, so cannot advise you. Liquid powders re so seldom used In these days that I haven't formula for one that I consider good. If you will send me a stamped addressed envelope 1 will send you the name of a prepared liquid powder that is as good as any I know of. E. S. S.—The hair frequently falls be- use the roots are not sufficiently nour- ished. A good way to invigorate the hair roots is to gently massage the scalp with the finger tips dipped in clear, lukewarm water. This brings the blood to the sur- face and removes the particles of dead skin. At night apply the following ionic to the scalp: Two drams tincture of cantbarides, six drams essence of rose- mary and eleven ounces elder-flower water. Also wear your hat as little as possible. ROONEY R.—The Beauty Talk last Sunday will, I feel certatn, have given vou all the information you desired. If not, write to me again. MARIAN—Try fifteen grams of borax dissolved in one ounce of lemon juice for those bothersome little freckles. Apply directly after coming in_out of the sun and again at bedtime. Follow each ap- plication with a smearing of cold cream. To darken the eyebrows, boil slowly an ounce of walnut bark in a pint of water for one hour. ‘“Set” tne dye by adding a lump of alum the size of a hazel nut. Keep this in a bottle and apply to the evebrows with a small camel’s halr brush. Massage the bony neck each night with equal parts of lanoline, cocoa- butter and cocoanut oil melted together. IRENE—Let me beg of you not to do anything so foolish as to change the color of vour hair. You are sure to regret it if you do, for as the hair grows out the natural color the roots will have to be touched up and you will find it the great- est nuisance imaginable. The sample vou sent me is a very rich, pretty color, and probably harmonizes with your skin and e better than would an artificial color. Now please don't vote Mme. Hy- geia “a disagreeable old thing,” but be a sensible little girlie and make up your mind to let well enough alone. Are we still friends? P B R o S o e e e e e e e e o e g £ SCHEMES FOR MAKING MONEY & D O O R R R R R P e cumulation of a bank account, or at least a little extra pin money. A French woman, who has a most ar- tistic little home, found herself with more time on her hands than she knew what to do with. All of her friends admired the artistic arrangement of her home, and one day one of them asked if she would object tq golng over to the friend's home and rearranging the furniture, for every- thing looked so stiff, altnough she had plenty of pretty things. Such a success was made by the young French woman that she concluded it would not be a bad idea to see what she could do for strangers in this way and make a little extra money. She adver- tised to do dusting and artistic arrange- ment “by the hour.” She had several an- swers, and her customers were so pleased that they recommended her to their friends, until now she has all she can do. Another young woman of refinement does mending, reading, writing and shop- ping by the hour for an invalid, and finds herself most genially employed. Persons who do not care to employ a companion constantly find this a pleasant plan. This young woman finds she can serve three or four customers every day and still have her evenings at her disposal. She is free to come and go, and the change of em- ployers she finds most interesting. Another young woman, thoroughly in- structed in the art of china painting, finding that it had grown old fashioned, discovered a new way in which to apply her art. She makes a business of replac- ing broken pleces in fine sets of china. All she needs is one of the other pleces, and she can match it so that no one can tell the difference between the fine imported china and the hand-painted copy unless his attention is especially called to it. Still another young woman has found a way to fill the slender purse without leav- ing her own home. She was left an or- phan, but with a houseful of furniture. She managed to fill up the bedrooms with “roomers,” but still she found the rent a burden. She had three large parlors run- ning the full extent of the house, with archways and folding doors, so that the first floor could be thrown together. These were handsomely furnished, but she never entertained, and she conceived the idea of allowing other people to entertain In her parlors. Her friends were told of her plan, and they were only too glad to avail them- gelves of the opportunity. She now has to figure pretty closely to arrange for all the card partles, club meetings, dancing classes and afternoon teas which demand the use of her pretty rooms. She has a small dals in the back parlor for the use of a lecturer or for amateur theatricals. while the orchestra for dances is stationed in the large hall. This voung woman soon found that everybody demanded refreshment of some kind, and so she added catering to her other business, and now serves anything from tea and wafers to a full course din- ner. Persons who live in small apart- ments, poorly arranged houses or hotels find this a most convenient arrangement. for they escape all the trouble of get- ting ready for company and the disagree- able task of “cleaning up” afterward. e OMEN once had a limited num- ber of ways of turning an hon- est penny, and there their op- portunities ended. There were gewing, teaching, domestic ser- vice—well, the list could be told off on the fingers of one hand. To-day a Briareus with his hundred hands would scarcely have fingers enough to go around. At the woman's exchanges it seems as if some one is continually dis- covering a new path to a livelihood. Even the managers, seasoned as they are by a long experience in this line, are often amazed at the ingenious, and sometimes ingenuous, plans for capturing the dollar which women once found so elusive. One young woman has recently worked up quite a business in exercising dogs. She charges a fixed price per hour; has a book in which she records her now nu- merous appointments, and, being an ex- cellent walker, she says that, aside from the pleasing consclousness that they are profitable, she really enjoys her prome- nades. A more recent applicant at one VERY day some woman is trying some new avenue toward the ac- of the exchanges announced that she wanted to wash pet cats! She said that she was particularly fond of cats, and as they ought to be washed, she thought her offer might fill a want which would prove to be real, even if it had not been long felt. Two or three young women write verses to order—verses of the kind which may be described as dinner peetry: rhymes with a personal flavor, familiar teatures of many social functions. A country girl, whose accomplishments fn the dairy line were not in demand in the city, happened to mention incident- ally that she could handle a saw and hammer as easily as most women manage - a needle and thimble. She was soon en- gaged to teach a rich woman’s small son, who had a yearning for carpenter’s tools, how to use them without danger to life and limb. It is a universal blessing that women are learning to put to use their own Individual talents or accomplish- ments. Once the girl who now wants to wash cats would have been spoiling tem - pers and dresses, and the country girl ac- customed to a hammer and a saw would have been making impossible desserts. Truly, the world grows not only better, but more sensible. e HERE is scarcely any branch in which medicine has not advanced within the last twenty years, but in no one branch has more im- provement been shown than in the compounding and putting together of drugs. No more is the unwilling pa- tient made to swallow large doses of nau- seating medicine, for sugar-coated pills, capsules and wafers have come into use and patients can now take the most vile tasting medicines without any dis- comfort. Now comes along a Frenchman with a still more ingenious plan which opens up to pharmacy unbounded possi- bilitles of going still further ahead. On account of the difficulty of assimila- ting iron as a medicine a French drug- flst. has sought to introduce it in a digest- el.;'lesw‘ny by what he terms ferruginous gS. Hens can digest iron easily, while rem= dering it back through the albumen of their eigs in a form which is easily di- gested by the wenker stomach of man- kind. A salt of iron is given to the hens with grains of wheat. -A dozen of these medicated grains of wheat a day makes the hens, after three or four days, lay eifgs‘ which are very rich in iron already dl ;ested. he Frenchman is experimenting fur- ther with other drugs, and it is not with- out the bounds of possibility that we shall shortly be able to take all our medicine in the form of eggs. CURIOUS corner in Paris at present is Mme. Gache-Sarrante’s consulting room. Nothing of the lingere about it as at Peeter’a, Leoty’s or any of the ordinar¥ smart corsetleres. The salon of a doctor a la mode, with any number of chic wom- en sitting about waiting for the consulting room door to be opened and the welcome “next,” which means their turn, and all day long carriages driving up, and the soft swish of tralling skirts through the halls as other women come to fill appoint- ments; the doctor rushing about through it all as hurried as a popular physician in an epidemic of grip. It seems that numbers of women have gained extraordinarily in toneandstrength through this rational dressing, and I have myself seen wonderful improvements in certain flFures (hereb{. A stiff, short- waisted little person know, somewhat inclined to be embonpoint and crammed into her corset, became supple, grace- ful, elegant, through this transformation; but it does not suit everybody for style, whatever it may do for health. The lat- est fad is to have a silk jeme{‘. made to order by some such house as Mizon, and exquisitely fitting, to wear under one’s tailor suit. The coat, then, may be as free as possible.—Harper's Baza SUPERFLUOUS HAIR % Is removed by DR. and MRS. A. W. TRAVERSE. Donohoe building, 1170 Market st.. cor. Taylor, rooms 25-29, with the electric_needle, without pain or scar. Mol ‘wrinkl blackhead: marks, el manency guaranteed. Hours, 1 1040 m