The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 19, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 19, 1899. \ .\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ M il is gifted wi ompadour roll, me the Lenten ason oman spends a great deal imeat thedre and parties iches of the e shade between It is rather a wearer is fortu- 1 to possess a r it will be ver gown. re very simple, - order, but it has 1 draped from bow, of the ke in its sim- worldliness of the material to gown which is bound to once e with a skirt of T revers and collar white, edged t is cut loose in front, st line with t h of of talls. 1 be worn a pair of patent leather wearing a boot to f it be a_gray ar abroad, but vor here. A WEEK OF SKIN RENOVATION! E TREATMENTS R 2ce the most skeptical that » possess that chief essential healthy complexion. e and neglect your skin Pimples Freckles Coarse Pores Wrinkles Mus. Nermz manmisox's. MoOles LATEST TORTRAIT realize how ut obnoxious are too sensitiv “nothing. 1 thiction be- No tion strictly private. arts the natural color to gray or faded Not a dye. No disagreeable after effects, cr stickiness. $100. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR rently removed by the Electric Needle ted by me. LOLA MONTEZ CREME Is a skin purifier and tissue buflder without an equal on earth. It s a natural skin food. 76c jar lasts 3 months. TRIAL POT FREE 10c in stamps Per: Ladies out of town sending this coupon ill_receive my book of box_of Lola Montez Creme r FREE. MRS, NETTIE HARRISON - DERMATOLOGIST, 40-42 Geary Street, San Franciseo, h imperi: but waved, and s short hair curled luff Two huge vellow chry s In black hair give a really W PR £ hair dressed over a bout the forehead rikingly unique is the are, flattened over the npadour. The ef- ize the color of ms 1 of the k velvet ei ze bunches of v re worn in the same manner by blondes ired brunettes bunch sh med scarlet popples or r their ears, with ¢ sult ally Oriental. The scar- impression of combined viv- a trifle neglected of late, and are beginning to receive the’ attention he Mardi Gras and a private cy s ball have turned every one’s houghts toward appropriate costumes for bal masque. The gowns worn at the { Gras have been described in more s detail, but those for the fancy or dress ball bave as yet escaped printers’ in] The most beautiful gown was an exact copy of that worn by the Princesse de balle in the famous portrait of that ty. It you have dark hair and eyes wish to choose an effective setting brunette beauty, hunt up that picture and copy the gown. The dressmaker who fashioned this one reproduced it so beau- tifully that if the Princess had slipped to ecarth she would have cried, “My gown!" to the beautiful modern wearer. The material is an exquisite shade of pink, the panniers of a still more delicate tint, the under side showing a & of brocaded pink satin. The bodice the soft Marfe Antoinette effect. It is own the very simplicity of which chal- s deseription. he Queen of Hearts wore a brilliant red satin gown covered with bespangled velvet hearts of a deeper hue. Even the hat was a tiny velvet heart. This is a cos- specially becoming to blondes, as in white velvet covered with dizzy black velvet circl Coat _tails ros: high ruche and cap completed Pierette's costume. A rococo shepherdess in pink nd blue and soubrette in striped plng very charming, an white looked n ecially fresh and thelr costumes looked becoming. v ety To wear under the jackets the shops are offering curious bits of workmanship collars, but almost any name might aal sultability. In reality the; and bodice trimming combined. o example which may be taken as an authentic herald of the spring mode is a very high stock studded with jet spangles, and having here and there an embroidered ille star in some bright effective des of the stock toward the onspicuously high, ear-shaped pieces of the silk. They tower, winglike, far above the wearer's ears. They are ade of silk or satin to match the color lle stars in the stock. Many of edged with spangles. Other new models have hanging in front of the stock a cascade of jet beads. Some llars have but three rows of these in graduated lengths, but others have seven, the last row reaching to the waist and forming an effective trimming for lice of any gown, There is also the coral studded collar, with its rows of coral beads. This collar is usually made of white velvet, with the gh stock scattered with corals. The velvet ear-shaped pieces are lined with coral-tin silk, and in front rows of coral beads make a graceful garniture for the front of the gown. Some of these new collars have beads to exactly match the color of the velvet used in the stock. et iy _ Among the pretty ribbons just creep- hionable shops are those show- me embroideries. Among them with bright red, green- es scattered all over them. s are scalloped on the edge with a caded feather design, outlining_the lops in a two-inch band. Then there are those with plumed gauze edges and narrow_ striped ribbons of all kinds and colors gathered into little frills for trim- ming summer gow LIS A ventilated shoe has been invented in Cologne, Prussia. A steel spring works a bellows between the heel and sole, and ve! step the wearer takes dri 'S a stream of fresh air through perforations in the inner sole to every part of the foot. When dohn's Away. His pipe is cold upon the shelf, His jolly dog’s alone estray; The house is quite unlike itself When John's away. We miss Lis whistle on the stalr, ‘We miss the turning of his key, His cheery mandolin's favorite air, His company. And when his cheery letters como We seem to read betw een the lines, A wistful yearning for his home Our love divines. Oh, army blue that shines so bright, Oh, army blue that looks so warm. It folds full many a heartache tight, That uniform. —Harper's Weekly. —_——— “Keith’s.” No cards. We can't kxnow the right address of every lady. Open ing, all invited. . ————— HOW THEY LIKED HIS FIANCEE. The young man was in a glow of en- thusiasm as he returned to his home after escorting his flancee to her abode. She had just made a formal call upon “his folks,” and he was dashing back to hear their praises of his divinity. As he put his key into the front door some demon—he thought it a good fairy at the time—whispered him to go in quietly and overhear their delighted com- ments. So he sneaked into the library adjoining the dining-room and sat down unseen and unheard, with an expectant smile upon his face. Mamma's reached him: “She seems a pretty little thing, but what a weak chin she's got!” Then his sister Clara: “Do you call her pretty? Well, I'm sure I don’t. Why, her nose is like a button.” ‘Whom could they be talking of? i “I'don’t think she has a good complex- jon. Why, as she sat by the window her face was the color of saleratus biscuit.” This, was the voice of his sister Mary. “0O! 'well,” broke in mamma; ‘‘there's no use\trying to say anything to Horace, though\I do wish he had selected a more stylish girl. He wads Horace! Great heaven! were mfi\ing about her! He bit & corner of a blotting pad, while his thoughts were those of a pirate. voice was the first that they “And did you notice her earrings?” queried Clgra. “I never saw such old- fashioned things in my life.” “I don’'t jelieve her family amounts to much,” saidMary. “I met her mother at \\MUHIH!!I///////////////// s "' ) e /////////////// ray DWNS Wa’% e Mrs. Broun’s sociable, and she struck me as being awfully dowdy. Still, T suppose we'll have to receive them.” The young man burst in upon them like a whirlwind. ““No, you won't!” he screamed, as he fairly danced with rage. “No, you won't! She shall never step foot in this house again! Why, she could buy and gell you all in the matter of good looks, dresses, family, noses and complexions and when it comes to mammas'—here his voice rose to a shriek—‘"why, she could give you all cards and spades and beat you hands down!” And he dashed out of the house in a frenzy, while the women looked at each other and wondered if poor Horace had taken to drink already upon discovering how inferfor his fiancee was to his own mother and sister: ew York Herald. —_——— Patti's Third Husband. Tt is a great tribute that Mme. Adelina Patti has paid to matrimony in leading to the altar a third consort. Her first hus- band. the Marquis de Caux. whom she married in 1868, had the indelicacy to get a divorce from her on account of her at- tachment for Signor Nicolini. This attachment survived her marriage to Nicolini in 1886, and continued until his death on January 18, 1898. If it had been her sole attachment, possibly she would have felt indisposed to form another, but while one sainted memory may do to cherish for aye, two sainted memories make a good pair to draw to, and very possibly Mme. Nicolini has done well in emphasizing the close of her year of widowhood by a new alliance. Her new husband, Baron Cederstrom, is a Swede, and has lately been engaged in the health gymnastic business in Lon- don. His age is 30; hers 56—giving an average for both of 43; a time of life which the blending of experience with expectation makes particularly suitable for the undertaking of new enterprises.— Harper's Weekl, —_—————— Sonnet. "To you. O infant of my midnight thought! I sing this tender, tense, parental song While to my sleep-deserted chamber throng Old memories, nocturnal and unsought, What wonder that my mind Is over- wrought? For, oh, your ceaseless voice is over- strong, And my cold-footed pilgrimage is long, Come, baby—darn it—shut up as you ought! In fancy I recall those graceless years Before your darling mamma made m hers, . Til in my heart the pulse of sorrow stirs And makes me half inclined to ape your tears, Confound it! Sleep! Stop yelling if you can! Ah, well, some day you'll be a married man. —Chicago Record. Queen’s Jaste for Music. Her Majesty is now at Osborne, where she regularly spends Christmas and the New Year. An amusing story, which I have reason to know is true, has reached me. While a regimental band was T ing after the Queen’s luncheon a sprigk )y music-hall air, unfamiliar to her Maj- struck her fancy. SHe immediately dispatched an aid-de-camp to find out the name of the piece of music. On his return it was noticed that the officer’s face was troubled, and instead of at once complying with her Majfesty’s command he hesitated, until the Queen insisted on his telling her what was the piece of mu- sicthat she had admired. With much diffi- enten the officer faltered out that its title “Come Where the Booze Is Cheap- After inquiring the meaning of the substantive, the Queen is said thoroughly culty was, to have enjoyed the joke.—Harper's Weekly. — Speech. The world is sad enough No path is wholly Talk happiness Without your woes. rough; Look for the places that are smooth and clear, And speak of those to rest the weary ear Of earth, so hurt by one continuous stramn Of human discontent and grief and pain. Talk faith. The world is better off without Your uttered ignorance and morbid doubt. If you have faith in God, or man, or self, ¥ £0; if not, push back upon the shelf silence all your thoughts till faith shall come; No one will grieve because your lips are dumb. of Talk health. tale Of mortal maladies is worn and stale. You cannot charm, or interest, or please, By harping on that minor chord, disease. Say you are well, or all is well with you, And God shall hear your words and make them true. —ELLA WHEELER WILCOX. —_———————— The dreary, never-changing Principal (of kindergarten school)—Have vou had any experlence with young chil- dren? Applicant for teacher—I've raised ten of them myself. “What! A mother! all. You would upset You wouldn't do at 11 our ideas.” Ask to Keith's. on the counter. Saturday next. see patterns in boxes at We can't keep all the goods Thursday, Friday and . The very latest jackets designed for midseason wear are rather fanciful, yet they have an air of unmistakable style and elegance. They are neither v ery long nor very short, so will be becom ing to all manner of figures. e et N lieu of the usual Beauty Talk to- day I am going to give you a recipe for a very delightful toilet vinegar— one of those ‘vinaigres’ so popular with French beauties. It is very use- ful in the treatment of greasy or sallow skins. Vinaigre de Joilette. White wine vinegar. Lavender blossoms Rosemary leave: Gentlan .. Marjoram . Cut thyme leaves Angenca root Violet Let the mixture dissolve for three days. Then drain off the liquid and strain the residue, which must be added to the liquid first obtained. Fifter all through blotting-paper. . A little of this added to the water in which one rinses one’s face in the morn- ing will be found to be wonderfully re- freshing, will tone and brace the skin and remove any tendency to greasines: One word of warning. Never use a vin- egar on the face just after soap has been applied. The acid of the vinegar will de- compose the soap and injury to the skin will surely result. Answers to Correspondents. HOMELINESS—There was a special Beauty Talk last Sunday, on the care of the hair. I hope you saw it, for it was brimful of hints for you. The tonic con- taining resorcin is the one I should advise you to use. MAY G.—I am sorry to have to tell you that I fear your case is hopeless. I have never seen an actual cure of the little scattered veins. You might try frequent applications of diluted witch hazel, fol- lowed by massage with a good face cream. This may not cure, but it cannot possibly harm you, and may help. J. J. H.—The simplest freckle lotion is ‘made by dissolving fifteen grains of borax in one ounce of lemon juice. Apply to the face-every night with a small, soft brush. After it has dried on the face smear with cold cream to allay the irritation. L. A. B.—First of all. vou must get rid of the matter that is clogging the pores. This can be done only by scrubbing the face thoroughly -eacu night with a cam- el’s halr face-scrubbing brush. tepid wa- ter and castile soap. Then apply a cold cream made from the following formula: b B g oh < g 5 o o g g G i g G g i G0 <5 o g i 2 615 gl o ia i A @ i G s 2 @ S i b it b e o o R S S e s i ] BEAUTY TALKS: THE CARE OF THE FACE. By MME. HYGEIA. P SO RE T 1 PO U USSP S OO PUUUT Spermaceti, 1% ounces; pure white wa 1% ounce; sweet almond oil, 1% ounce: rosewater, % ounce. When the pores have been emptied of the seba matter that clogs them apply se day, allowing it to dry on the skin following whitening and astringent Take a half pint bottle and put three tablespoonfuls of fresh, cucumber juice. elder flower water and then add two ta- blespoonfuls of eau de cologne. Shake well, and add very slowly half an ounce of tincture of benzoin. shaking the mix- ture now and then. Fill the bottle with elder flower water. The following face powder is not only perfectly harmless, but possesses exceptional medicinal quali- ties: One ounces Lubin’s rice powder; one ounce best, purest oxide of zinc, one-half ounce carbonate of magnesia, finely pow- dered; twenty grains boracic acid; two drops attar of rose. Get your druggi to mix the ingredients for you, as it is quite troublesome to mix powders without the proper appliances. MISS OREGON—Massage the mneck every night with equal parts of lanoline, cocoanut oil and cocoa butter, melted to- gether. In the morning dash tepid water on the neck and rub briskly with a crash towel. If continued for seven or cight weeks this treatment will certainly fill out the hollows. An excellent wash for weak and inflamed eyes is made by com- bining equal parts of witch hazel and camphor water. ‘Protect the hands by wearing gloves as much as possible while doing_your housework. Here is a lotion that is particularly nice for the hands, a3 it is immediately absorbed by the skin and is not greasy: Gum tragacanth, 60 grains; rosewater, 14 ounces: giycerine, 1 ounce; alcohol, 1 ounce. The traga- canth must be softened in the rosewater for a_day or two and then strained forci- bly through muslin or cheesecloth. The glycerin and alcohol, previously mixed, must then be added, the mixture well shaken and perfumed to suit. Of course vour drugsist can mix these things for you, or he will give you the quantities called for and you can mix them your- self. The complexion brush, if used faith- fully, will refine almost any sort of a skin. Just wet the brush thoroughly in tepid water, rub on it a little pure castile soap and scrub the face with it every night. Rinse in clear water and massage with a good face cream. HAZEL B.—Both your letters have been received. I regret exceedingly that I could not give you an earlier reply, but your Jetter had to await its turn. IXxces- stve flushing of the face frequently comes from a fevered condition of the blood, or from a debility of the minute blood ves- sels of the skin. Treatment calls for active pedestrianism, a diet of fruit, par- ticularly ripe pears, oranges and figs, a N the h it in uncooked Half fill the bottle with + + + + + + + + + well ventilated sleeping room, and no tight bands or corsets. Put the hands nd feet in hot water, in which little mustard powder, evéry night. hot drinks, eat very slow the open air as much as possible. cellent cure is to learn self-control. S.—For information about moles read my little chat with Miss S WITHERBEE—I am sure you tressing yourself needlessly over a condition of the skin that is common to many women. There is no reason in the world why you rhould allow such a trifiing affliction to stand between you and happiness, for I don’t believe it is really as bad as you believe it to be. And, believe me, it won’t make the difference that you fancy it will. The troublé is doubtless due to imperfect circulation. Remedy this by lots of outdoor exercise— in fact, the advice that I have just given Hazel B. will suit your case also. Take warm baths and scrub the body virorous- ly—particularly tne parts afflicted—with a_flesh brush and plenty of nan, Then after drying rub well into the skin some good, pure olive oil. T think a good blood tonic would also help. Let me know 1if this treatment aoes not mend matters. I feel certain that it will. Here's my hand and heartiest wishes for your happiness. Stop worrying. You're a dear, sweet girl, I'm sure, and tue rest of it doesn’t amount to a one-cent postage stamp. PANSY—The astringent wash suggest- ed to L. 4. B. is what you need to con- tract the pores. Do not wash your face with anything but pure mported castila soap and tepid water. And after you have dried it, rub well with cold cream. MRS. F. W.—Please try treatment ad- vised in foregoing letter to L. A. B. Tt is just what you need. For the dandruff use the following _tonic: Forty-eight grains resorcin, one-half ounce glycerine and alcohol enough to fill a two-ounce bottle. Apply every night to the scalp with a small sponge. A cold cream with- out camphor is better for the skin unless it is very oily, as the camphor is more or less drying. If you find it agrees with your skin. then continue its use. PRUDENT PRIM—Dear me! how did you ever get your lips unpuckered after making use of such a name as that? It UPERFLUOUS HAIR Is removed by the Philadelphia Electrolysis_ Company, Donohoe building, 1170 Market street, cor. § Taylor, Tooms 2829, with the ¢ clectric_needle, without pain or f scar. Moles, ~ warts, wrinkles, blackheads, freckles, birthmarks, etc., also removed. ' Permanency guaranteed. Hours, 1to 4 p. m. eason N SV iy ) Uy, L SO W Q 2\, 7/7/////}1///////11151 blonde, who waves and loose that gives an infantile expr wee girl whese fractious Y ll French beauties realize the meaning of the word individuality curls her hair and loops it in a small, jon to the head and reminds one of a ve ringlets are mamma is getting her ready for her bath. she has placed at one side a bunch of snowy tolse-shell comb glinting back the color of the the knot, and behold—the embodiment of innocence rubs could not be more free from guile t ling arrangement of immaculate blossoms. ot O\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ This 1s & soft knot y small, caught up h a single pin when Then with seeming carelessness camellias. A large vellow tor- hair is thrust through above One of Raphael’s che- golden head with its nest- an this makes me think of “papa’s pears, prunes, prisms and potatoes,” that we 'used to say to the prim little girls at school. The only thing I can suggest for the palms and hardening of the skin about the finger-nalls {s to lubricate them each night with cold cream or olive oil. 1 wish you would try the cucumber milk. It i3 a splendid ~skin whitener. You will find the formula In reply to Ma ja W. in last s paper. To make the eyebrows equal parts of cocoanut oil and To get rid of ce each night h Sunday Rrow use vaseline melted together. the blackheads scrub the f: with a camel’s hair face 1bbing brush, tepid water and castile soap. Pimples and blackheads both denote a disordered di- gestion or a diet tco rich to make pure healthy blood, so you must be careful about what you eat. "Also take plenty of ex- ercisc and a tepi of your life. much boiled e lemon j of_dirt from n Develop the ha g back the flesh at the base of the nail, after the hands have been soaked in warm soapsuds. The n can sometimes be given a pinkish hue by vigorous fioll.\mng. If this does not make them pink enough then art must be re- sorted to. REGA—The formula that you inclosed is intended to be used as a shampoo. The water must be boiling and the camphor 1t is frequently used as a cure cold powdered. for dandruff. Bottle rub into the sponge or the finger shampoo, saturate the then rinse in several clear waters. I do not advise it, as I think you will find it very drying to the scalp. The liquid soap it, and when given in last Sun Beauty Talk Is much better. Twice a week is entirely t00 often to wash the hair. Tell me what is the matter with your hair and I'll teli you what to do for it, or possibly you found all the information you wish in the Beauty Talk of last Sunda MISS HOPEFUL.—Now. after my own heart. Am pleased to know that you are one of my * dies.” Please read foregoing letter to Prudent Prim about the eyebrows. You can make a very good tooth powder by mixing to- ether carbonated magnesia” (powdered), parts; orris root, 2 parts; pure pow- dered soap, one-half part. I really do not know what to tell you to do to develop your chin, as it is the jawbone that gives most of the general outline. However, you might try to fatten it by massaging with the orange flower skin-food, but it will be slow work, I can assure you. Acetic_acid will remove the moles. "Dip the end of a wooden toothpick in the acid and apply to the center of the mole, tak- ing care not to touch any of the sur- rounding white skin with the acid. Do this three nights in succession and then stop. A scab will form, which, in the course of two or three weeks, will fall off, taking the mole with it. Write to me again and tell me about some of those other girls. A. B. C.—Patience must be your watch- word when you start in on beauty cul- ture just as it must be in many other un- dertakings in this life. So, as you have so little naturally, suppose you cultivate some. In Sunday’s Call of February 5, I gave directions to Rosebud L. for reducing a large stomach. I feel sure you must have seen them. If you will go through the same exercises for a couple of months or more it will certainly help you. The muscle roller may be of benefit, but I do not This tailor gown hails direct from Paris. know enough of its resuits to advise you. If you use one kindly let me know if you are benefited. If vou wish to reduce the double chin you must massage with a good cold cream, taking the flesh up he- tween the finger and thumi and rolling and pinching as much as you possibly can without bruising the flesh. This dissolves the ty tissues. Then, if the skin be- comes flabby, use the alum wash. LAURA T. P.—If you will use the fol- lowing lemon hair sh on your hair it will, I am sure, bring back the golden tints: One ounce salts of tartar, one quart of water and the julce of three lemons. Use as a shampoo and be sure and rinse thoroughly in several waters, else the air will be left sticky and disagreeable. shing the hair with the yolk of an egg ch of borax will also help - one of the given in last Sunday’'s Beauty Talk The lemon juice an -am, that 1 will freckl ock borax, followed by cold suggested to J. J. H. hands, unless the ay-with-you-all-the -rounc MRS. BRADFORD B.—The red nose in your case is probably the result of poor culation or_improper dlet. Avoid rich, highly spiced foods, hot strong tea or cof- fee, and every form of stimulant. Do not \lted meats, but pin your faith to a laxative diet of fruit and vegetables. Take plenty of exercise in_the open air and apply witch hazel to the nose frequently during the day, and rub well into it at night the following cold cream: Sperma- ceti, one-half ounce; white wax, one-halt ounce: ofl of sweet almonds, two and one- half ounces; rosewater, three-quarters of ounce; powdered borax, ten grains: nce of cloves, five drops, Dissolve the borax in the rosewater and add the es- sence of cloves. Melt the first three in- gredients in a porcelain kettle. When melted remove from the heat and add the rosewater all at once. Then beat quickly with an egg-beater until the mixture is cold and firm. Let the tar water alone, and if this treatment does not benefit you write to me again and I will suggest something else. For the wrinkles there is nothing better than systematic mas- sage with a good skin food. The benzoin and water cannot ossibly harm your Skin, but the white of egg might. VENDETTA—For information regard- ing the halr I must refer you to last Sunday's Beauty Talk. ~ Advice given to Mrs. Bradford B. con- Cerning _diet, will be of benefit to you. Scrub the face every night with a camel’s hair face scrubbing brush, tepid water and pure castile soap. Then rinse the face in two quarts of warm water, to which has been added one scant teaspoon- ful of the following lotion: Alcohol, four ounces; ammonia, one ounce: ofl of lav- ender, ‘one dram.” Mix by shaking in a six-ounce bottle, and remember one tea- spoonful of this'to two quarts of water— not a drop more. ——————— “Keith’s” opening ‘“something worth seeing.” * 0000090000000 00000 ® & ® The Sunday Call, 32 ® Z pages, delivered at your : o home by mail for $150 o Z a year. Subscribe for if. : 0000000000000 0000e It has all the simplicity of the usual tallor-made and at the same time there is a certain chic and origin- ality about it which that garment usually lacks.